8 Years with a Mk7 GTI! My Driving Report

[@downto2538]

The ways you use this gti will go down in history. You are a legend.

[@StealthGTI]

HAHA! I'm honored to be remembered this way! Thanks for visiting!

[@MauriceNL1]

Here in Europe the warm start issue is actually very common. 9/10 times it is a bad camshaft magnet. Does not cost much and can replace it at home (like 6 bolts) try that first! They are known to go bad!

[@StealthGTI]

I've seen compelling evidence that I may have a HPFP issue. See the UPDATE in my video description. Thanks for visiting!

[@jsm0m]

I own a 2016 MK7 6 speed 2 door and it only has 52,000 miles… so far water pump replaced, brake fluid change, oil changed (liqui-moly) and basic maintenance done. It’s dead stock with just a cold air intake and haven’t tuned because I’m nervous it’s my most reliable car 🤣 I own 3 other Germans so I try to keep this one as reliable as possible. But you sir are a total badass and I love all of the knowledge and your passion and love of importance of being on top of your maintenance is 👑 your daughters and wife are lucky to have such a wonderful inspiration and so badass your GTI is awesome! I wish my dad was as passionate as you but keep up with the videos I love and enjoy them! ☺️

[@StealthGTI]

I appreciate your comments! Thanks for visiting!

[@bierlyynn]

Man I was just watching your videos the other day because I've been considering getting a MK7 GTI myself. Glad to see you upload again

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for stopping by! I hope you buy a GTI!

[@TarzanGTI]

Thanks for doing what you do with all the documentation. I bought mine back in 2020 and was extensively researching them in 2019 and watched several of your videos. This kind of information is very valued as an owner and enthusiast. Unfortunately got in a pretty bad wreck in mine which I was lucky to survive. Car did its job beautifully. Lots of memories and good experiences, from bone stock as the second owner to tuned street car to fairly extensively modified dual duty daily and track car. Now in a FL5 Civic Type R and looking to start a new journey with that.

[@StealthGTI]

Too bad you didn't go for another Mk7! Have fun with that Civic. I don't know much about them, but I'm sure there's a good following and support for them. Thanks for visiting!

[@LimitedEdition0619]

Welcome back Scott about time. Happy New Year to you and your family

[@StealthGTI]

Happy New Year to you, too!

[@sfseals]

Congrats on your imminent lunar landing Scott! I had a one year head start on you, with my 2016 GTI now turning 10 later this year. Alas, i am embarrassed to say i am barely into upper orbit at 70K miles.

[@StealthGTI]

The landing is upon us! I need to write blog entry and shoot a video... probably tomorrow if the roads are clear. Do they have snow plows on the moon? ;-) Thanks for visiting!

[@Mustang46liters]

Coming up to 100,000 miles on my GTI and seeing how many miles you’ve achieved without any major problems is good to see.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks! The comments on my VW reliability video have shown me that there's a big difference between what VW owners and Toyota owners see as "major problems." HAHA! Thanks for visiting!

[@redline078]

Happy New Year! I just hit 115,000 miles on my 17 Sport, too. I've been tuned and running Flex fuel for 60,000 miles. The car has been dead reliable; the only problem is that I had to replace the clutch twice. I'm hoping to get her to 200K miles and then trade up to an RS model. Love watching your journey man.

[@aaron___6014]

Twice in 115k. My Honda's clutch survived 220k and that was mostly flat city driving and lots of spirited driving. But it was an entirely mechanical system (cables and hydraulics). Stock as well. 3 sets of motor mounts.

[@MyRealName]

Stock clutch both times?

[@StealthGTI]

Are you tuned? I've read that the stock clutch is barely adequate for even the factory power levels. Try an RSR clutch by HSTuning or even one of South Bend Clutch's lighter solutions. Both are stronger than stock. BTW, what is an "RS model?" Thanks for visiting!

[@nobleman-swerve]

@@StealthGTI Probably referring to an Audi, their highest-end performance models go under the RS moniker. An RS3 is the pinnacle of performance MQB, though tragically only offered exclusively as a sedan stateside.

[@StealthGTI]

@@nobleman-swerve - Thanks for pointing that out. My head was still in the VW realm. HAHA!

[@danr8194]

I'd check the crank position sensor signal, low pressure fuel pump pressure and fuel injectors for leakage. Floods the chamber and requires engine cranking to clear. Check VCDS for misfire counter

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@shevagoal69]

the issue you're describing is what I had on my 2015 GTI. My mechanic suggested replacing HPFP and it went away. Part was $400 CDN and fairly easy to replace since it's accessible in the engine bay

[@AegisVS]

Same thing with mine. 2015 GTI, it was 100% the HPFP. Before replacing the pump, I did injectors, carbon cleaning, new PCV, new cam magnets and pilot valves.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@BogusBolloks-mf4wq]

I like it😀👍 MK4 GTI here as my daily with my two way radio installed. Owned mine 10 years and still enjoy it as much. 73 from ZA

[@StealthGTI]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing!

[@jordansernik]

I just bought my first Mk7 GTI - SE with the Performance package. It has 131K miles so I'm super happy to see someone who's successfully put a lot of miles on it!!

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks! Although I stopped modding years ago, I hope to keep posting videos about this car being a mighty-miler. It will be a "geriatric GTI" before too long. Thanks for visiting!

[@JacesOwnWorld]

Great video bud. Maybe I can help you in some insight of the symptoms your GTI is having regarding rough starts and coolant residue in its reservoir. I also had these same exact symptoms on my 186k mile MK7 GTI. Hard starts, coolant residue in reservoir, but also misfire sputters on a cold engine in low rpm’s, and intermittent hiccups. I eventually replaced the LPFP, HPFP, and suction jet pump. They didn’t fix anything. Replaced MAL sensors, ignition coils, spark plugs, cleaned TOB and carbon cleaned, checked wiring for loose connections, etc. Nothing fixed the issues. Did a coolant flush and replaced coolant reservoir + reservoir cap. That fixed the coolant residue issue (look into the cap. It could be the culprit). I eventually replaced all my fuel injectors, put the car back together, the car cost after cranking and then the motor seized up. I drained the oil and found coolant inside the oil. Dropped the oil pan and coolant everywhere in the oil. So, I don’t know if me replacing the fuel injectors messed anything up, or if the engine was on its way out soon anyways, but finding coolant inside the oil was a sure sign that something internal finally let go after driving on these above symptoms for well over a year. I haven’t removed the engine yet to take it apart to inspect it, but plan to do that this year sometime. I will be buying a brand new long block for the car and swapping over my accessories onto it, with refreshed parts, gaskets, etc. I hope your motor doesn’t suffer what mine did, but if it does, I would say you def got your money’s worth out of its original motor. 220k+ miles is excellent on a tuned IS38 car. I’m also IS38. I bought the car new in 2017. Tuned it at 2k miles, and it was running a custom IS38 tune, on WMI, and FBO for the last 4 years. Driven a lot of city miles and lots of decently hard driving.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. I have some good ideas about what needs work. I've updated my video description with an UPDATE paragraph so that I don't have to copy/paste it into every response I give here. HAHA! Thanks for visiting!

[@marlanefitz]

Friendly MK7 GTI owner here. If you do suspension, I highly suggest the super pro control arms at the same time. Really makes you fall in love with the car all over, the steering feel gets a little heavier, corners are better, really convenient inspiring mod a lot of people don’t really look at. 😊

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for visiting!

[@michaelwilson158]

this should get a bunch of views

[@StealthGTI]

It seems to be doing well! I've posted an UPDATE in the video description. I'll share a video when I decide to get some work done. Thanks for visiting!

[@wisconsineaglesfan7925]

Happy New Year!

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for visiting!

[@jeffreystalters8574]

My coolant reservoir looked just like yours. I replaced the oil cooler and it solved the problem. This happened around 120,000 and currently at 137,000 with clean coolant.

[@StealthGTI]

I'm leaning that way, too. I need to see if I can get a light and/or hand in there to feel for oil/residue to confirm. My water pump has 115,000 miles. There's nothing wrong with it, but I might as well replace it when it's out. Also, there are oil cooler related seals on the block side of the alternator bracket. It sucks to think about removing even more stuff, but that gasket serves the same function as the one for the oil cooler. It'd be a shame to not address it when I'm so close. Thanks for visiting!

[@kjkrentonthurston1029]

That's great the GTI is still running great after that many miles :) the issue you have with possible oil in the coolant; if it is the oil cooler id recommend an IABED oil cooler kit that solves many problems that come along with the stock oil cooler.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@toasterdirt]

Thanks for your videos, they have been helpful in my 8V A3 ownership. For the starting issues, I would guess the in-tank electric low pressure fuel pump. Your starting issues seem like early warning signs of a pump on its way out. If you have VCDS or OBD 11, monitor the pump's duty cycle. It should be anywhere from 45-60%. I would say anything above that is time for a replacement. I had this problem in an A4, and bought an aftermarket pump from FCP Euro. Do not buy aftermarket in this case. Buy the pump from the dealership, I am saying this from experience. The aftermarket pump left me stranded after working for only a year (on a stock car). 23X,000 miles seems like a lot of miles for the original pump. VW/Audi cars for a few years had silica gel bags in their coolant reservoirs. I know A3s from 2016-2020 had them, pretty sure MK7s had them too. There is a lot of speculation as to why this happened, but a common theory is that they are there to bring up the silica levels in the coolant as the coolant itself does not have any or a low amount of silica per regulation. On my 2018 A3, this bag was in the bottle and I bought a new bottle without the bag. This is because the bags eventually do rip and those pieces are spread throughout the passages of the cooling systems, potentially blocking paths or ruining the heater core. The bottle I purchased was from FCP and did not have the bag in it. That brown ring you are seeing maybe oil, or maybe the leftover remnants of the silica bags. Also, if you want to clean your steering wheel to make it look like how it came new, use Lithium's cleaning cubes. Follow the directions and you should have a brand new looking steering wheel that does not shine. (hope all this rambling was helpful) Question. Have you had any problems with timing, or have you replaced the timing chains and tensioners at any point?

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll buy the Lithium's, for sure! I'll have a look at the LPFP's duty cycle, too. I had checked pressures and they were good. But the duty cycle may tell more. I also have a better understanding of when the problem occurs. As for the timing chains, they're still original. The camshaft adaptation for exhaust is just 1.8°, which is reported to be well within tolerance. I'm also told that the EA888.3 chain guides will make some noise before things get sour. I'll have everything replaced at the first sign of trouble or if the head has to come off for other work. Thanks for visiting!

[@devonforsure260]

Ive owner hondas long term and creeped a bit over 100k on my 2017 s3, a few rattles aside and the common waterpump issue. The car has given me no issues

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@Yaboybash]

The oil in the coolant reservoir might be early signs of a failing oil cooler

[@mrw1160]

Yes most likely, my one friends car let all the oil into the coolant when his failed but the engine is still good, just replaced the cooler and then no more leaks *shrug*

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for adding that! I forgot to mention it in the video. I could not find the oil cooler, but have since developed a good idea of where to look. We're expecting some "winter weather" from "Blair." So, I'm going to wait for the wind and temperatures to settle down before having a closer look. Thanks for visiting!

[@mrw1160]

@@StealthGTI the oil cooler sits on top of the transmission under the air intake I think. Although that could be a transmission oil cooler. It is an aluminum box looking thing, I am unsure wether the coolant has anything to do with it.

[@StealthGTI]

@@mrw1160 - What you describe could be a transmission cooler for the DSG, which I don't have (manual transmission). The oil cooler appears to be integrated into the same bracket that holds the oil filter and alternator. I'm still researching. Thanks for the note!

[@mrw1160]

@@StealthGTI The coolant flows through the oil filter housing but there is a gasket between the port it flows through and the port the oil flows through so if it wore out from seeing many climates of weather and heat it could be the main cause.

[@winky_ice]

The film of oil in the bottle can be the oil filter coolant housing. when it breaks your coolant will turn into a chocolate milk shake. Oil will start mixing with the coolant. Will have to flush the system again again there’s no more oil particulates

[@StealthGTI]

See video description for update. Thanks for visiting!

[@winky_ice]

Congrats on keeping that GTI running. I’ve been having the same issue for a while with my mk4 GTI1.8t and checked fuel pump and replaced a whole bunch of parts with this intermitent long crank. I went back to my OEM coil packs and feel like it hasn’t done it yet. I was running the red coil packs from the EA888 upgrades. So maybe if you have access to some coil try swapping them out. Once car starts it runs fine and never throws a check engine light so weird.

[@JoelCaseyJonesMusic]

Replace the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, and at least clean - maybe replace - the MAF. It’s probably one of those. I have 3 mk4 1.8ts and most of the “problems” on those engines are caused by little things like sensors (or lack of maintenance like oil changes). They are a very reliable platform if you take care of them.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@winky_ice]

@JoelCaseyJonesMusic I've changed, injectors, new URO fuel pump, new injector cups, new cam sensor, new cam chain tensioner sensor, new crank sensor OEM, coolant temp, fuel filter, checked fuel pressure holding at 45 to 50 when idling, check fpr after turned off, not leaking down pressure, changed fpr, changed knock sensors, changed spark plugs and put back OEM coils. Car sometimes starts right away and other times it cranks longer. Not sure if maybe the fuel pump relay is bad, worth changing it at this point. Battery is pretty old so not sure if that can cause intermittent long cranks. Any advice would appreciate. 260k miles original engine. Car runs perfect so tumbling just this weird long cranks.

[@JoelCaseyJonesMusic]

@@winky_ice I’d try the maf. Quick test is to unplug it and see if it starts without issue. If so it’s bad (or dirty). The pump relay may be an issue too. I’d also change the fuel filter while you’re at it. Cheap and easy and probably hasn’t been replaced.

[@winky_ice]

@ thanks for getting back to me. I've replaced the fuel filter before putting in the new pump and cleaned the MAF with that MAF cleaner. No codes of any kind are thrown. When my MAF went bad years ago the car would run like crap and backfire like crazy. I'll unplug it and see if it makes a difference. So weird.

[@dorkultra]

I really hope that your starting issue isn't due to crank walk. I imagine you've had that checked out. congrats on having an insanely high mileage car, glad to see that these MK7s will continue to live with some care

[@StealthGTI]

No crank-walk. The car still runs great and pulls strong. It's beginning to look a bit like an aging LPFP. Thanks for visiting!

[@rafaelpierluisi1430]

My old mk7 gsw had an oil cooler failure at around 160k miles that produced similar symptoms to what you are seeing with your coolant. Hopefully it’s that and not a bad head gasket. Good luck! I bet you get 300k miles out of yours if you want to.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing that! Yes, I'm hoping it's the oil cooler. I forgot to mention that possibility in the video. I now know where to find that part and will see if I can spot any external signs of leaks. I'd much rather pay for that than a head gasket! HAHA! Thanks for visiting!

[@Jankums0711]

My 2016 MK7 r 62,000 miles does the same thing randomly on start up. It has been doing this for months now and it started in the summer time. I have been doing the same as you, just wait and see at this point for a failure. I will be following for feedback if you have solution first or not.

[@StealthGTI]

See the UPDATE in my video description. I'll share an update if I decide to replace anything. Thanks for visiting!

[@mrjkstark]

I had my mk7 for 8 years as well. It’s been almost a year to the day that I traded it for a mk8 and I still deeply regret it. I’ve come to enjoy the mk8 for what it is, but if I could go back and stop myself from trading I would.

[@StealthGTI]

I can't bring myself to like the Mk8. The haptic buttons are a turn-off, as are the touch controls for everything. And, if I'm being really petty, I like the Clark Plaid better than whatever the new stuff is called. Typing all of that makes me feel really fussy and needy. Maybe I need a bubble bath! HAHA! Thanks for visiting!

[@jv6miata]

You should get with Charles from the HumbleMechanic on some of your issues! He'd be pretty interested in your unique setup.

[@StealthGTI]

He's seen it, not for my current problem, but at "Winter Volksfest" in Raleigh as a communications exhibit. Personally, I think he's too busy to diagnose my car. But I've found a few things. See the UPDATE in my video description for more info. Thanks for visiting!

[@Victor-ox1no]

LOL. I bought my 17 GTI sport early Nov of 16. Only 36,000 miles on it and all stock. (I work from home and have 2 cars.) Only issues I've had are thermostat housing replaced back in 2018 and thermostat and water pump replaced in 2023. Both very minor leaks. Couldn't find them actual leak, but could smell antifreeze and bottle was low. Both times fixed for free. Have yet to do the suction pump recall.

[@StealthGTI]

Sounds like you've had a pretty good run with your GTI! I'd say that yours is at risk of odd failures for not being used *enough*. ;-) Thanks for visiting!

[@Victor-ox1no]

@@StealthGTI You're right. I replaced the spark plugs at 36966 miles this past weekend and noticed oil on the threads of the spark plugs from 1 and 4 cylinders. I still have the 10 year powertrain warranty, so i guess I better schedule something.

[@StealthGTI]

@ - It sounds like perhaps a valve cover seal. Don't be surprised if your warranty doesn't cover it as a "wear item." Good luck!

[@Golf7gti]

The EA 888 gen 3 is a good engine. I have the same car as you. Today it has about 458.000 km (284.000 miles). Everything works fine. Best car I have ever had. How often do you change your oil ? I wish you good luck with your GTI!

[@StealthGTI]

Very nice! Most of my oil drains are done every 10,000 miles. Some argue that manufacturers intentionally recommend extended maintenance intervals so that engines fail after the warranty but before a good, long life. My 1998 Jetta TDI went 445,000 miles on 10k drains; its engine went into a Passat to live longer. There have been shorter drain intervals, such as when I upgraded the turbo and when leaving for an extended road trip. Otherwise, I've been following the prescribed intervals. Thanks for visiting!

[@Golf7gti]

@@StealthGTI I do the the same interval as you. Great to hear that the other engine is so reliable too. I bet we could easy reach about 500.000 km, if we take good care of our cars 🙂

[@edwinhalim5426]

I’m having the same issue with the start especially after the engine is warm. Already replaced ignition coils and spark plugs. One of the shops suggested carbon cleaning. I don’t think that will solve the problem. I suspect the cam shaft position sensor. Let me know if you find out what’s wrong with yours. Mine is 2017 autobahn dsg. I have 140k miles on it. Great videos as always.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@faridh2125]

Canister purge valve maybe !!? maybe the gasoline vapors are not evacuated well or not at all ...take off the gas cap and hear if there's any pshhhhh comes from the tank after some driving !

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the idea! I found someone who knows these cars pretty good who's seen the same issues with his own car. He's even identified when it happens. He still hasn't figured it out, but I hope that he does before it leaves me stranded. HAHA! He's leaning toward a LPFP priming issue.

[@frankwc0o]

I'm liking the FT-857D. Great radio! What antenna do you have for that radio?

[@StealthGTI]

My FT-857D is my VHF contest radio. I connect either horizontal loops or horizontal beams to the VHF/UHF port. I think the HF port is currently open, but it will have a 222 MHz transverter before too long. I need to update my KE4WMF playlist with current info. But my IG and website is fairly current. Thanks for visiting.

[@kawzx777]

Caught my oil cooler leak when my waterpump needed changing. I'm surprised that VW mechanics don't check or advise oil cooler gasket when they're in there with the 💧 pump. It was a unwelcome charge but in hindsight it would hav been more of a charge if not caught at the time..Good luck

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing your experience! I just saw the oil cooler for the first time in one of Humble Mechanic's videos. Do you happen to know if the only way to remove the oil cooler is by removing the water pump, too? I guess that'll be an expensive fix, but still cheaper than a head gasket replacement or overheated engine. Thanks for visiting!

[@danielwatson2068]

​@@StealthGTII had light oil leaking into the coolant too on daughters 1.8ts at 140k milesi. turned out to be the accessory bracket to the engine block seal (the oil cooler is mounted on the bracket along with alternator and AC compressor). You can remove the bracket (and thus oil cooler) without removing the water pump. It is the best way to do it as you can do both seals (cooler to bracket, and bracket to block. I documented it on Mk7 forum a couple of years ago @yamr1rider

[@TheBigfatclown]

Hi, my wife encountered the same issue you did. She has a 2014 Jetta TSI. Took her 4 times to be able to start the car. No codes showed up.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@justindaniel5959]

I replaced my water pump on my 10year old Toyota at 55 000miles. So don’t feel bad. It comes down to wear and tear and ageing parts.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing that! Most Toyota owners who mention the brand here act as if nothing ever breaks. Of course, most of them are also in markets where they hardly drive their cars, too! Thanks for visiting!

[@mirah112]

HI Scott, you did not mention about camshaft chain? Did you replaced it ? when ? on what mileage?

[@StealthGTI]

Camshaft chain is still original. Timing compensation is still around 1.8°, which is well within tolerance. I'm told that the guides will start making some noise quite a while before just letting go. So, I feel like the car is functioning in a safe manner. Thanks for visiting!

[@mirah112]

@@StealthGTI So all components around chain, tensioner, rollers, guides all original at 380 000 km ? this is impressive in my region, mechanic recommends to change whole trimming chain thing, when engine passed the 150 000km. your case prove that this is false idea.

[@StealthGTI]

@@mirah112 - Yes, all of it is original. My mechanic is the type that he doesn't like to take-on work that isn't necessary. I think he wants to keep me as a customer; so, he's not going to make recommendations that are detrimental to the car's health. Just my opinion.

[@td0911]

My original alternator went out at 413,000 on my 2000 TDI. I assume yours is a Bosch as well, and it seems their partnership with VW is pretty well dialed.

[@StealthGTI]

Bosch is good stuff! If mine fails, I think the alternator for the Golf R and Arteon is rated for 180 amps and will fit my GTI. Time will tell if that upgrade if ever going to be necessary. Thanks for visiting!

[@LimitedEdition0619]

As far as the starting problem you are running a lot of current perhaps it can be some type of circuit between both batteries or simply alternator going bad need and upgrade or of course new battery needed also colder day's could be any one of these or combination

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the thought. I don't think charging current plays a part because the charger is OFF anytime that the engine is not running. The two batteries are completely isolated. The symptom sounds more like "vapor lock," something that I forget to say in the video. Driving is so distracting! HAHA! Thanks for visiting!

[@Abdi_Mohamed_]

So you have a tuned IS38 Gti with over 200k woaawww

[@StealthGTI]

Yes, indeed! Thanks for visiting!

[@tomhunter91]

Wondering if youve done injectors yet, they could be causing the weird startup issues. Its likely fuel related, either fuel pump as some have mentioned, n80 valve failure, pcv failure, etc. Ive also heard of problems with the coil grounds causing weird problems like this. Surprised theres no codes. Would help if you could log it

[@StealthGTI]

Injectors were replaced at 115,000 miles when #3 failed. I'm leaning toward a LPFP issue with the hard start. Thanks for visiting!

[@jirving24]

Great video! . . . With this many miles do you have any blue smoke on start up? I do and I only have 53000 miles. (Oil changes every 5,000 and stage 1 tuned)

[@StealthGTI]

No blue smoke. No smoke at all, actually. Thanks for visiting!

[@AsheLockhart]

You may have answered this in another video or elsewhere, but what made you get a GTI instead of a Golf R? I've had both and did an EQT tune and APR intake, intercooler, and cat back to the GTI, but I didn't tune the R. The GTI was a more powerful car with tune and hardware, but even with the VAQ front-end, wheelspin was a problem. So I'm curious, given the limitations of FWD, why didn't you go for an R and AWD?

[@IChewIceCream69]

For most people it's as simple as the price. I'm in Canada it's anywhere from a $10K-$15K difference. I would definitely agree getting the R is worth it if money isn't a problem

[@StealthGTI]

I've added an UPDATE paragraph to the video description if you're interested. As for why I didn't buy an R, Golf Rs have traditionally been marked-up by the dealer for over a decade while, at the time, GTIs were marked down. In 2016, a $38,000 Golf R would have a $45,000 sticker with no wiggle from the dealer because they knew SOMEONE would pay the price. On the other hand, my GTI had a $30,000 sticker that was discounted to below $25,000 before I ever set foot at the dealer. I don't think the $20,000 additional cost for the R would give me $20,000 worth of smiles. ;-) Thanks for writing!

[@echopapacharlie]

2 quick questions: any oil consumption on the EA888 engine? and now that VW doesn't sell any manual transmission car anymore, other than the GLI, what might you replace your GTI with next?

[@StealthGTI]

I *may* be consuming about 1L every 10,000 miles. But now I know that the real number is less, especially if this turns out to be an oil cooler leak with some of the oil winding up on the road. I'm still investigating. As for my next car, I'm considering a Crosstrek, but I don't like the CVT. I may go for a Tiguan. Neither are nearly as fast as a GTI, but both will give me more function and room without sacrificing too much in economy. Thanks for visiting!

[@ajcip_poo]

My 2017 sport at 125k miles, burns oil once in a while , i do 5k miles oil change and would top it off at 4k mile mark. It did once at approx 60k miles, and again at 115k and just recently on my way to 125k miles. Not sure if i used less oil and it’s my error or it sporadically consumes excessively.

[@David-vx5tk]

Have you ever replaced your PCV valve as preventative maintenance I always heard if it goes bad it can blow out the rear main seal I have a 2016 GTI Autobahn DSG and I am thinking of replacing the PCV just for Peace of mind

[@StealthGTI]

Mine is still original. I may test mine and replace. I've read to stay stock. So, the replacement will come from VW. Thanks for visiting!

[@David-vx5tk]

@StealthGTI yes if and when I change mine I will get a OEM One

[@David-vx5tk]

I am anal about changing the oil with full synthetic every 3500 to 4,000 miles and I check it once a week and I don't drive very much

[@mzondi1970]

Do they make suspension risers for other cars and if so do they make them for the front and back

[@StealthGTI]

I guess it depends on the car. Some VWs and Subarus have mild lifts available since they may be taken off-road. The same may be true of other brands. I was lucky in that these particular spacers were made to address a specific and common problem among lowered Golf/GTIs. In my case, I was compensating for load instead of equipment change. Thanks for visiting!

[@Randy-lg1qo]

It’s a conspiracy against VW: 1. I just sold my 2000 Audi S3, running 27PSI for 20 years and never had an oil leak or gasket fail. 2. Current is a Škoda Octavia vRS with ea888.3 on stage 2 for years - no problems for 6 years. Had others, but those are long-term.

[@StealthGTI]

I think it's part of manufacturers needing to stuff more things into smaller engine bays. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@kelzpinero9293]

i would start with a fuel cleaner. next do a carbon cleaning if you havent.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note. The HPFP and oil cooler are on my short lists. See an UPDATE in the video description if you're interested. Thanks for visiting!

[@zuluagaco]

Had the same issue when starting the car when it was hot.... one day, my mechanic had to take the intake manifold out to change my water pump, and the starting problem disappeared..... seemed to be something loose or disconnected.... thougt it was something with fuel but wasn't. Something else, torque lag isn't that different from is20... you might have some boost leak somewhere and could be related with your starting problem. Mine with just 40k miles had the hose that comes out of the turbo and comunicates to the plastic section before intercooler cracked and I did a new diverter valeve at the same time too and o boy what a difference... no more lag. Really similar to is20 on the lower rpm. Diverter valve is really cheap and its a must every 2 years.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for sharing your info. Someone else with a similar slow start problem has surfaced. He's leaning toward a priming problem with the LPFP. I think he'll figure it out before too long. I'll looking into my charge air pipes. Still, 500 rpm isn't much and is consistent with what's shown in APR's torque graphs. Thanks for visiting!

[@anthonymichalski2736]

I have a 2017 SE DSG APR stage 1 w/ 75,000mi. Good to hear yours still working. Have you had to do a carbon clean yet? If so, when did you get it?

[@StealthGTI]

I've had two carbon cleanings: a pre-emptive cleaning around 95,000 miles (preparing for a 7500-mile road trip) and a fault-induced cleaning at 194,000 miles. My mechanic does not believe in cleaning at a set interval. Instead, he recommends cleaning when cold start misfires become a problem. My second cleaning was after some cold start misfires and Check Engine Lights. The car drove and accelerated just fine; the cleaning cleared the misfire issue. Thanks for visiting!

[@laguilayanisulan2830]

❤ v❤lks

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for visiting!

[@aaron___6014]

Lots of trouble with euro VW tdi's with coolant in the oil on stock vehicles. The oil coolers fail. Its just VW crap. Dark side developments reported on it. Lots of blown engines.

[@StealthGTI]

Thanks for the note! I'm glad I've caught it early.

[@HackbotT1000Legion]

My 19 had 11,000 miles on it, and 5 recalls..Own a Subaru legacy now and didn't lookk back...Good luck!

[@StealthGTI]

Everyone gets recalls from time to time. Toyota has a slew of them. To me, it's all in how the manufacturer and dealer handles them. VW is not known for how well they address problems. I have my eyes on a Subaru Wilderness trim of some sort in the future. We'll see how that goes. Thanks for visiting!