Steam Locomotive Stoker Engine Restoration - Part 5: Piston and Valve Removal from the Cylinder Head

[@joed2392]

I vote " Eutalloy " for the crankshaft problem ! And maybe the cylinder wall pitting too !! Go talk to Adam "Abom", see what he say's about it .......! With it being cast, you could rough skim cut then spray it. And get a tougher cylinder wall and then bore/hone back to factory spec's !! I love seeing you and the guy's, bringing all those " Big Iron " machines back to life !!

[@mikeysgarage3697]

Kinda expected Adam to magically appear the very moment you mentioned building up the material on the crankshaft, lol!

[@FergusonTO30]

Mikeys Garage me too. Spray welding!!

[@buildmor]

Mikeys Garage I was thinking the same thing about Brian wandering into the shop when Keith was discussing boring the cylinders.

[@britishreaction54]

Hello Keith from the UK. I'm enjoying watching this series develop. The press at the museum looks interesting, a good resource to have at your disposal. Pitting caused by moisture entrapment is something I've seen a lot of. Will you make the oversize rings in meehanite? I like the stepped slit in the originals, rather like a labyrinth seal. I thought perhaps you might consider line boring those cylinders in one of the large capacity lathes you have. Having said that, knowing someone who has a boring machine with enough capacity is definitely useful and probably the easiest and safest route. I love your phrase "outside of my wheelhouse"! Collaboration on this project is going to keep things moving and ultimately see the engine run again. I look forward to future episodes. If you ever travel to Great Britain, try to visit the National Railway Museum in York. They have perhaps the finest collection of Steam Locomotives in the world. You can walk around their workshop where active restoration is ongoing. They built a running replica of Stephenson's Rocket - the first Steam Locomotive in the world to run regular paying passenger trains - which runs fairly regularly on the museum's track. Their workshop is wonderful, a sight to behold.

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Those “gapless” rings are actually pretty easy to make. Use a narrow slitting saw to cut the rings halfway through from each side. Make sure you offset the cuts with a little overlap. Also make sure you make the rings slightly oversized so the end gap closes some when installed. All adjustments are easily calculated. I can run the numbers in a spreadsheet, if you’d like. I know this video has been up for awhile but I doubt you’ve done this part yet. Thanks, John

[@willi-fg2dh]

you know the final diameter you want for the rings . . . circumference equals pi times the diameter . . . if you want a 0.125 overlap in the joint, just add 0.125 plus the width of the kerf cut by the slitting saw (or just a bit less for clearance) to the circumference then divide by pi to get the new outside diameter to machine the ring to . . . the inside diameter is just the outside diameter less twice the depth of the ring you want to use . . . cut the machined ring with the saw along a radius line from the center then cut away half the height of the ring (also along a radius lines) and TADA you're there (with a small amount of fettling with a small file). note: these rings will be quite stiff to install if the overlap is too great . . . i suggest a ring compressor (or, at least, a big hose clamp).

[@chrisjohnson4666]

This is right up Dave at old steam machine shops alley... both you guys have great content...

[@williamkhoury938]

Hi Keith, In regards to crankshaft, pistons and cylinders i'll get an advise from David Richards from old steam powered machine shop, my guess he is the authority in regards to steam engines. Good luck and keep it coming.

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

David is probably in Florida for the winter already.

[@lineshaftrestorations7903]

Dave Richards could easily do the boring and if needed the sleeve work. Any good industrial diesel crankshaft shop should be able to handle the stoker crank.

[@gregbrodie-tyrrell3473]

@@lineshaftrestorations7903 David used to do full engine rebuilds for motor cars (I think), and it would not surprise me to hear that he still has a crankshaft grinder. Whether it would be large enough for this job is a question for David himself.

[@jonathanw4942]

"Standard Crankshaft" in Charlotte NC. welded and offset ground all my stroker crankshafts for antique tractors.

[@Mishn0]

Hi Jonathan! Why am I not surprised that you watch Keith too?

[@rickpalechuk4411]

"Stoked" that's so steam engine Keith! Thanks for sharing, Cheers

[@KohalaIronWorksCase]

As a child I was facinated by steam engines...mainly the engine in the old steam dipper shovels. As a child I wanted to be "Mike Mulligan" because he had the life I yearned for. I admire what you do Keith. Aloha, Chief

[@wilsonlaidlaw]

Keith, AD Piston Rings in Cleveland, OH, will make step cut cast iron (or stainless steel) piston rings to measure in all sizes from 2" to 30" and widths to suit. Unless you are dead set on making them yourself, that could be a good answer.

[@darrenblattner2508]

I'll say one thing about you Keith, you'll tackle most any job, the world needs more guys like you. Keep up the good work and keep smiling.

[@lincreed-nickerson7949]

I've made some large diameter rings for steam locomotive pistons on a Bullard. Once done It was easy to do the offset joint, set the ring on the mill, cut the first slot, flipped over did the second, which then split the ring. Probably the least of your worries, wish I could help, but I now live in Vietnam!

[@gentharris]

Bore the cylinders to clean and both the same size. Braze up and turn the pistons to spec clearance and make new rings.... The real challenge in any job like this is ensuring the cross heads are dead nuts in line with the cylinder bore........ I was not present when they did the final assembly so it was up to them... I have done the cylinders on 2 locomotives for Silver Dollar City In Branson Mo. like this. We sleeved one engine and it was a nightmare! I'll walk you thru making the rings right but there are lots of resources out there on the subject. Gotta love old iron!

[@mdouglaswray]

LOVE that you 'share the love' - these old machines NEED it. Way to go Keith! Always fun. THANK for recording this for posterity!

[@tomrobertson3236]

I'm so stoked Never thought where that phase came from

[@alanl.simmons9726]

after watching several uses of the press, I'd put a wooden crate with a layer of sand under the press to catch parts. protect feet & save floor.

[@elmarqo_3448]

That steam whistle is music to my ears.

[@randallanderson4999]

I was expecting a Jimmy Rodgers song to break out. Great Job, keep up the exciting work.

[@edwardkawecki8101]

I always liked the line boring set up Keith Fenner made and uses on his large lathe. Keith (Vintage Machinery) you may want to check it out and do it on your Monarch lathe No doubt you could do a top notch job with no traveling and a set up that will be valuable for future jobs.

[@pekkasaarinen2902]

I immediately thought of Brian when you talked about boring those big cylinders. His horizontal mill really is huge. Can't wait to see that collaboration coming up.

[@geckoproductions4128]

Fascinating video. Sorry I have no expertise to contribute, but I'm having a ball watching and learning. Thank You!

[@michaeleaston547]

Good thing you have "steel toe" tennis shoes. Great videos. Thank you.

[@rjkejk57]

You did an amassing job in just getting all the parts out with out having damaged anything, by yourself! Good luck with the rest of the project, I am looking forward with the video with Brian since his channel is great and he is one heck of a worker of a true American machinist !

[@wi11y1960]

Finally. A engine vid to watch once again.

[@edwardburgess8440]

Hi Keith, I am rally enjoying this project being of the old school it really fascinates me. I hope Brian is able to put this on his monster machine something else for me to look forward to. Regards, Ted.

[@pinetreeforge9664]

Hey Keith, two suggestions - Rings - Otto Gas Engine Works, Elkton MD; Up to 86" inch custom rings, but he stocks rings in common sizes as well. For the Crank shaft - Moreland Crank shaft & Machine, Easton MD - He can make that crank from scratch if needed.

[@Hoaxer51]

Pine Tree Forge, it’s always nice to have options!

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video Keith.

[@Vance_Nickerson]

No doubt you can't bore it but Brian does have some larger machines and what a treat it would be to look over yalls shoulder and learn. As a steam railroader in Texas be glad to help if I could also.

[@MrRogsmart]

Wonderfully geeky. Thanks Keith. It's really cool that you have access to so much of the original documentation on this project.

[@MelanieFan1679]

Cant wait to see more of this restoration!

[@jmccracken491]

Keith, you sure do get yourself into some situations LOL. I was looking at that crankshaft and the tubular oils strange but sure should work. Looking forward to see this complete.

[@markfoster6110]

To remove the rings. Put piston in lathe get a scare board wheel mount it on the tool post and press it into the piston rings start lathe with coolant .. stand back .it took three hours to loosen the rings on my Austeral stationary engine . But it works great

[@WHITTONZ]

I wonder if such a small amount of pitting on the crankshaft is significant, should the remaining surfaces be round, sound and within tolerances. If so, I'd be tempted to smooth any sharp edges and leave it alone, rather like filing down a raised nub on a drill bit caused by a slip in the chuck. You could always call the areas oil reservoirs! Best wishes from Cornwall, U.K.

[@Ropetangler]

While this is not really my area of expertise, I absolutely agree, and I wonder if the bores of the cylinders would be ok as well with just a clean up in Keiths Evaporust bath, followed by a hone. If the bores still look bad, boring out ten thou on the diameter, followed by the hone again may be all it takes. I also agree that the rings were likely cut through, then expanded sufficiently to mill the step on one end half way, then flip over and do the same on the other end. A bit more work than a straight cut, but easily doable by Keith.

[@WHITTONZ]

@@lesdmark Thank you for that observation. My comment was based on the assumption that the crankshaft journal surface had a smooth, round surface and that all pitting was below the surface. I certainly agree that a rough surface would be unacceptable as would any "out of roundness" , hence my observations in my initial comment. Best wishes, BW

[@neiltate6309]

Magnificent work. Cannot wait to seethe finished Stoker Motor ticking over.

[@DAKOTANSHELBY]

Can't wait to see the collaboration between you and Brian at his shop.

[@MichaelLloyd]

I like when you guys collaborate. I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next.

[@mikemarriam]

Can't wait to see the collaboration with bcbloc02! Great project btw.

[@lamontcranston8181]

I need that knob you have your bottle jack. That’s ingenious!

[@VintageMachinery]

It is a clamp on faucet handle made to clamp onto a faucet with a messed up stem. You can get them at Lowes, Home Depot, etc....

[@lamontcranston8181]

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org thank you sir. I appreciate your feedback. Have a great day!

[@eduardowilliamyazbek2025]

Estou gostando muito de assistir e ter contato com a tecnologia do vapor e o quanto estavam e estão desenvolvidas as técnicas envolvidas. Pergunto o quanto estão sendo usadas hoje em dia. Obrigado.

[@paulveiga6439]

Hi Keith. Another great video. I'm a big fan of yours so is Mom. How about a shout out for Jean in Beach Park Illinois on your next video? That will make her day. Thanks.

[@bobvines00]

Keith, when you get the crankshaft to a automotive engine shop set up for crankshaft work, they ought to be able to grind the "worn" journals down until they clean up. Then the cleaned-up journals can be chrome plated, and then ground back to OEM specs. There is a plating shop up around Warner Robbins that may do "job-shop" industrial chrome plating -- if so, you could keep the work "local" so you can easily visit and hopefully even make videos of the repair work. It is SOP, I believe, for automotive engine crankshafts to be industrial chrome plated to bring them back to OEM specs. I say "industrial" chrome plating because it is a different process than what's used to "bright" chrome plate a bumper or other "bright work." Industrial chrome can safely be applied somewhere in the 0.015-inch (0.38 mm) thick range, at least on _aircraft_ landing gear. Crankshaft may take a thicker amount of chrome since they aren't "critical safety items." Industrial chrome plating is _not_ a quick "dip & rinse" process -- it can easily take over a day to apply enough chrome to build up your damage, especially if nickel is needed, and _it_ will require grinding before a minimum thickness of chrome is applied. Your "crankshaft shop" POC may know whether it is "safe" to apply nickel plating under the chrome as a build-up material to recover more heavily worn components -- I have no automotive plating experience. The Navy plating shop I used to support did this all the time to recover landing gear, but the Navy obviously doesn't accept "Civilian" work. That's why I recommend trying to find the plating shop up around Warner Robbins, if your crankshaft shop doesn't already have a plating shop they work with for this type of work.

[@outsidescrewball]

Brian should start building a grandstand with concessions and sell tickets to watch the show!!!

[@jamesbrewer3020]

I love seeing the collaboration with the other U Tubers. Best of luck with this project..

[@dscott1524]

This is a great project. I am so looking forward to this in steam!

[@dougm5873]

David Richards is the man, Mister steam himself is the pro. and Brian is the keeper of heavy iron

[@homeryoung7436]

Thanks Keith

[@brucetuckey7909]

Keith, I think you should reach out to the old steam powered machine shop. David Richards has done steam engine restoration in his shop. He also was and still does engine work. Could be the help your are looking for. He is a wealth of information on steam engines.

[@shannonsdad1977]

I have a solution to your piston ring issue. To achieve a 7.125" fnished diameter with a 0.25" overlaping step joint, turn the stock to 7.204" outer diameter. The internal diameter depends on the thickness of the ring. Simply deduct twice the desired thickness to determine the internal diameter. Machine to required width to fit the slot. Once you have the ring turned, mount it vertically in the milling machine and cut two 0.25" slots halfway through the width of the ring. One from each side offset from each other, and centered on the quadrant of the ring. When the two slots meet, they will form the step joint you showed. When the ring is compressed, it should exactly fit your 7.125" bore, with just enough spring pressure to seal to the bore. Glenn Wiersma - Enigma Engineering

[@chucksteele4787]

You may want to contact David Richards. This is right up his alley.

[@cyrilhudak4568]

Even Dave has a "Crankshaft Guy"

[@chucksteele4787]

@@cyrilhudak4568 Yeah, but he does sleeving of steam engine cylinders.

[@denniswilliams8747]

On the rings. I think you should make the rings well oversize, maybe 7 1/4" and then after the gap overlap is made, make a clamping set up to hold the rings with the gap closed then machine the out side to the finished bore diameter. if the finished bore is 7 1/16" then machine the outer edge to a bit less for clearance. I have seen model engine rings made with a clamping fixture to hold the rings compressed for machining to get an outside finish that fits the bore so little breaking is needed to get a seal. Dumb bell weights might be a source of cast iron for the rings. Others have used cast iron pipe as a source if you can locate some in the right size. I know you can buy or have made a cast piece from one of the foundries, The overlapping ring gap can be done without too. Thanks for the vids. I enjoy looking over your shoulder as you work.

[@hooter7003]

Morning Keith from Aussie

[@fredjones7307]

With regards to the off set piston rings slot's. Mill down halfway from the one edge of the ring then mill an offset slot half way from the other side of the ring the corner between the slots will coincide..

[@Vintageguy73]

Are standard pistons compatible with a cylinder overbore? Would be a toss up making new pistons OR sleeving with commercially available iron sleeves. Hard chrome can be used to build up crank journals.

[@johnnyholland8765]

Glad you thought of Brian. As you were speaking I was thinking Brians name in my head. That is one video I am looking forward to watching...........

[@cmonster6]

I could listen to that steam whistle all day

[@davidhoward2237]

put it as a ring tone

[@davewalus7200]

Crankshaft supply in Minneapolis Minnesota could help. Kind of far but they do good work!

[@rickvand5580]

Pushing rods out on a press is so terrifyingly fun

[@85932]

Hai Keith, Could you please explain how you use air supply on hydraulic jack to operate. Bit confusing. Thank you.

[@VintageMachinery]

It is an "air over hydraulic" jack, designed to pump either manually or with air pressure.

[@85932]

@@VintageMachinery Thanks for your time

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and enjoyed.

[@shanek6582]

Can you build up the crankshaft with that spray weld stuff that Adam Booth uses?

[@kerrygleeson4409]

Very interesting great project Keith thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺🚜

[@bsb0011]

Keith for your rings, I would use a file to file the steps on both side, then use a thin slitting saw. or even a jeweler's hand saw and cut your break. Just my 2 cents, YMMV.

[@JamesJohnson-qe1tj]

Some how I've missed out what you've done for the pistons. Buy the way I have fond remembrances of Cyphers Mine.

[@JerryWalker001]

To make the rings just use an end mill from both sides and have the edge of each slot meet in the middle. This will 'split' the ring and also give you the overlap.

[@evanpenny348]

Don't really follow this. Please explain a little more, and thanks in advance.

[@JerryWalker001]

No problem... 1) Machine the ring to the expanded size. 2) Using an end mill cut a slot half through the 'top' edge of the ring. The mill should be a suitable width required for the amount of overlap that will be required. 3) Using the same end mill flip the ring over and cut a slot half way through the 'bottom' of the ring but offset from the 'top' cut buy the amount of maximum compression required (eg the width of the mill) but no more than the width of the mill. As the cut reaches the first slot the ring will be 'split' because the top and bottom cuts will meet but they should be offset from each other.

[@naillias]

I love your informative videos! You always have interesting and practical projects. You are very informative. I have stopped one youtuber that used to be great however showing how to make a button decoration for a bar B que should be elsewhere. Keep up the good work!

[@garyfeltus9801]

This project on stoker engine is really cool stuff. Hope see it put in and running. Thanks for sharing.

[@hfdzl]

I put a piece of 2x8 or 2x10 under the press deadens any wild parts that come out-- absorbs impacts.

[@truracer20]

The ring ends are just two offset slots cut on the opposing sides with a slight overlap in offset and depth.

[@ron827]

"Depressing work." :-) Maybe some kind of mattress under the press would be in order for catching wayward parts. Glad to know you are receptive for some help.

[@unclebobsbees4899]

Yes that was the chuckle phrase. Boy did the parts fly once broken loose!

[@TheStefanskoglund1]

Yes he can be glad that the piston didn't crack.

[@unclebobsbees4899]

@@TheStefanskoglund1 You can tell Keith was sweating that! 😉

[@frikbrits6335]

I was wondering some days ago what happenned to this engine, glad to see ur still at it. I must repeat here : I am still thinking one should put this thing into an old pickup with a boiler running on diesel engine injectors ....... wonder how it will work?? My late dad had such a plan but of course it never got of the ground.

[@NoopityNoop]

Get yourself a rubber stall mat to put under the press. Keeps from dinging up your parts when those oops moments happen.

[@LeeUmass]

is there a similar game plan for the steam valves bores? I would guess they also have some pitting and would need some cleaning up.

[@patrafferty13]

Hi Keith. Why not try Aboms spray welding on the crankshaft

[@Landrew0]

There should be something softer under a press than a concrete floor, like a wooden box.

[@frankdeegan8974]

We are certain they would be grateful for a donated catch box for the press. lol

[@kenhutchens513]

We got a little 12 ton press were I work and we use a big fiberglass heat blanket under ours it's super soft and thick compared to the floor.

[@GaryGrumble]

Adam Booth had a catch container of old aluminum soda cans at his day job. Seemed to work well.

[@leperejoe1536]

We have a thick piece of rubber foot matt.

[@trufix72]

Keith a diagonal cut on piston rings might work.

[@artnickel1664]

Best bet might be a Diesel engine rebuilder or engine builder like Cummins. They might do a promo thing because the engine goes on GaAg museum engine. Maybe Cummins has a shop near Atlanta.

[@railfan439]

Keith, check with Keith Fenner to see if he has any old stainless marine shafting that may work for the push rods. Can't hurt. Jon

[@tomherd4179]

Check with Abom 79 on crank. Perhaps spray weld to build up crank then grind to size. Just a thought, again...

[@kevinhillgrenjr2248]

Adam Booth just got a new spray weld rig

[@aserta]

Adam has been hoarding every spray welder on his side of the continent, to...be fair. ;)

[@Blazer02LS]

And vise...

[@SirDeanosity]

@@Blazer02LS Jaws

[@Mercmad]

I am sure you can get the pitted crank pins metal sprayed,a technique that has been around forever.Would Dave Richards be able to handle things like that?

[@infoanorexic]

Dave sent the crank of the Morse engine to someone else for grinding .. Can't remember who, though (if he mentioned the name)

[@DeutscheReichsbah100]

I think so his daily job is working on automotive stuff. from what I understand from one of his video's

[@alanl.simmons9726]

You're "stoked" workin on the stoker engine! 😀 Putting shafts in the piston heads is going to be iNpressive video.

[@frankdeegan8974]

Tapered fit no less

[@ryanmueller3551]

For the rings it looks like you could come in with a small endmill from either side and make that step joint

[@BedsitBob]

There is a third option for those bores. You could bore them out, and make over-size pistons to match the new bore diameter. It would also allow you to make the tapers in the pistons exactly match the tapers on the rods.

[@andreblanchard8569]

The pistons are guided by the rod and the cross head and should never touch the cylinder walls. As long as the rings are the right size an 1/8 inch oversize bore is not a problem.

[@BedsitBob]

@@andreblanchard8569 I didn't mention the pistons touching the cylinder walls. I was merely suggesting installing over-size pistons, as you do when you re-bore an internal combustion engine, as a third option.

[@tpobrienjr]

Keith, if I send you some ANSI standard goggles, will you consider wearing them when you work that close to the press? Some of that material was pretty energetic when it broke loose, and a chip could have stung you.

[@julianp.1713]

Can you offset bore the hole in the direction of the pitting. My boring bar will do this to save blocks to a specific bore size.

[@Mishn0]

Wouldn't that make the rods off center on either side?

[@fdegeorge2000]

I was thinking the same thing. My thoughts: with the the crank you will have to maintain differential connecting rod clearance and crankshaft end play. On plane things are likely more forgiving. That said I think it unwise. If it were mine I think I would follow the specifications. ( note the ring gap at the current diameter)

[@julianp.1713]

@@Mishn0 I'm thinking there must be some movement with regard to the piston rods if they are attached to the crankshaft which moves in a circular motion as in an automotive application. The rod journals aren't moving exactly in a flat plane with the pistons. I'm, not familiar with the engine in question, but in some manner they end up connected to or operated by the crankshaft. as it the valve lobes. If he's 0.025 pitted and moves the cylinder bore maybe 0.008 or 0.010 it would be a small amount. I'd like to see if there is a feature between the crank and the piston rod that's pressed into the piston. SOme place the the circular motion created by the crankshaft has to be accounted for. Interesting.

[@Mishn0]

@@julianp.1713 All of the shafts pass through a pair of seals before getting to the wrist pin part of the mechanism. The mounting of the rod to the piston is rigid and its center needs to remain in the center of the sleeves. You could offset bore the cylinder, but then you'd need to shift the center of the sleeves to match. He's got plenty of tolerance on the bore diameter, probably twice what he'll need to bore it on center.

[@julianp.1713]

@@Mishn0 How does the circular motion of the crank become linear with the bore center? Is there a lifter of sorts making the transfer?

[@user-neo71665]

build a plywood box and fill it with bubble wrap to put under the press to catch crap instead of letting it drop or trying to catch everything. You can fill it with foam but it gets nasty real fast in a shop.

[@tomherd4179]

As mentioned below David Richards would be a great source, and Otto Gas Engine Works has made a number of "special sized" rings for me in the past.

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

as it is slow speed, compared to automotive, if the journals are otherwise smooth wont the pitting act like scraper marks to retain oil?

[@TERRYRONALDRACKLEY]

I was using one of those presses one day and didn't turn the lights on. The jack didn't go down far enough so I screwed out the end longer, was using a lot of pressure and jack flew out and hit me in the forehead, glanced off left shoulder and land on the table saw next to me. It took a while to figure out what happened but the jack must have set on the edge of the round retaining ring. I didn't have a bump on my head but a dent. It could have been a lot worse.

[@LukeLovesTrains-Mr.RailYard]

Cool video. Thanks for sharing. LJL

[@CwazyWabbits]

The ring gap looks like it was simply made by machining a groove from each side that just overlap, when you look at the valve ring it's more obvious. I bet when you get the piston rings removed and they expand fully you'll see the same.

[@stumccabe]

I agree - an easy job actually.

[@littleworkshopofhorrors2395]

you saved my typing finger by writing my thoughts on it.

[@mftmachining]

agree

[@aserta]

I'm with ya on this, that's an easy machine job and simple is how they did it.

[@Cyruscosmo]

@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 LOL!!! It took me ten years to use two fingers. Now with only two, I type faster than my brother and he is an I.T. Tech.

[@hk91762mm]

Commercial engine shop bore and sleeve and regrind the crank---experts -that is the way to go on this one ! Randy + Boom

[@richardwigley]

3:16 .... You can't beat that noise can you. ❤️

[@DeutscheReichsbah100]

I like the sound of the steam train whistle and I miss the sound in Keith his video's

[@jhbonarius]

Hi Keith, by looking at the valve ring, it seems like the ring was made oversize (for the spring action) and then cut halfway from either side, making the overlapping parts. The cuts just meet at one corner. Shouldn't be too hard to make right?

[@Vandal_Savage]

I was thinking exactly the same thing....

[@haydenc2742]

Could you make stainless rings (or bronze) for the pistons to keep them from rusting out?

[@TonboIV]

Couldn't you make the rings at a larger diameter, to make room for the step, then heat them up and compress the diameter until the step overlaps?

[@jurgs18]

Could your radial drill not be used to bore the cylinders?

[@combatmedic1980]

Keith, I think I remember you saying in the original video about this project, that the railroad had a second stoker engine that you might be able to use some of the parts. Disregard if I'm not correct about that.

[@VintageMachinery]

They do have a second stoker engine, but they want to have it rebuilt as well so that they have a spare.

[@Frankowillo]

First time I saw stuff fall out the bottom of the press onto the concrete floor I figured, stack a couple of plastic milk crates underneath to catch the falling stuff. Stuff is STILL falling on the floor after almost 8 years!

[@tomherd4179]

I forgot to add I have also seen diagonal cuts in the rings where the step is you were showing.

[@RichieCat4223]

15:35 That's called gap less rings. You might try a company that does produce cast iron piston rings to save you some time. I would really like you to show more videos on this project too.