Quill Feed - Part 2

[@ThisOldTony]

Excellent project, loved the series!

[@billdoodson4232]

I just love that swan neck casting on the Deckle pantograph. It's so sinuous and almost sensual that it looks as if it should be from a machine made in Italy, like a Ferrari, rather than something as teutonic as a Deckle

[@strangefruit8776]

The feed rate display has got to be the coolest part of that build.

[@gb9189]

Deine Videos sind immer eine Augenweide, Technik vom feinsten, Danke dafür.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Dankeschön!

[@laurentthommet8313]

I'm totaly impressed. This is no more an amateur's work. It can be qualified as professionnal. I hope we can see you a long time on this channel. greetings from France.

[@eddietowers5595]

Goodness you really know how to make "do cheapo" products look elegant as machine parts. Great job!

[@phillipyannone3195]

The attention to details may be time consuming but the results speak for themselves. Another excellent video. Thanks.

[@firstmkb]

I don't know how many videos you have, but I've enjoyed every one I've seen!

[@stevemackelprang8472]

Lucky day when I found this channel! Thanks for your time and efforts!

[@ronmcdavid7084]

You never cease to amaze me with your innovative solutions and your meticulous machining skills. I also really enjoy your dry sense of humor. I look foward to you videos, please keep the coming.

[@CameronMcCreary]

The standoffs on the inside should have been machined integral to the plastic. I did alot of these when I was younger and once you make a few, it gets easier. Nice work. As for the electrics, I buy from Mouser electrical supply here in the U.S.. I must say, etching circuit boards here in California can be problematic. I try to use Chromic / Sulphuric acid etchant for my copper circuit boards when I can. The etchant goes deep and banks the sidewalls of the circuits leading to very tight accuracy and fine lines.

[@RCCrawlerWorkbench]

Just started watching your channel about a week ago. Im hooked man. You have all the cool toys. Keep the inspiration coming my friend. Thumbs-up

[@Dans-hobbies]

Excellent video Stefan, you will love the power down feed. I don't know what I would do without it on my mill.

[@garyc5483]

Excellent project Stefan. I followed this one very closely as it will suit my old English made Ajax MD20 milling machine perfectly. Whether I will ever get time to doing it is another matter. regards from the UK

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I really enjoyed seeing your way to do the power feed . By far the best I have seen on KZbin ! .. Thumbs up man..

[@dizzolve]

finished product is so impressive. Love the feed display

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Always good to come back to your channel, and the little stepper motor for it's size works amazing (@@)! I have put off powering my RU-FU and came back to brush up on your build. Head in a similar direction, but using a worm driven 24vdc motor from a lite duty HC chair, and have power up incorporated into the build. Bear from TX.

[@StraightThread]

Brilliant, Stefan! Always a pleasure to see your projects and hear your rationale of why you did something in a particular way. It is fascinating how you integrate capabilities into your machines so elegantly. I'm looking forward to seeing your projects for 2017. Happy New Year!

[@dougbourdo2589]

Terrific project Stefan. Quite intriguing ideas. Great end result for function.

[@EmmaRitson]

really enjoyed this build. nice neat unit stefan. thanks for taking the time!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thanks Emma :)

[@thepunk4hire359]

That's wonderful Stefan! I'm looking forward to the dial creation video. I have the same mill and have pondered doing a powered quill feed, I think you have just motivated me to get on it. Thanks for the video.

[@caemaridwn]

I don't know what It is Stefan but you definitely have It. Thanks for posting. Rob

[@turningpoint6643]

As always a really well done and thought out project Stefan. Even Bridgeport doesn't recommend drilling anything larger than about 3/8" or 9mm with the built in head feeds. And there's only 3 fixed ratios of feed available per spindle revolution. The Bridgeport gearing just can't drill with anything larger without breaking the internal gearing. I don't bother drilling at all with the power feeds and reserve it only for boring on my clone. Having that range of feeds on yours and being far more durable will be very worthwhile. Hand feeding doesn't come close to what can be done with power feeds on the quill.

[@manuelmonroy3267]

Hi Stefan you never seize to amaze me. Great design and work as always. Really thank you for sharing all of your projects Thanks Manny

[@snocatfun]

Very nice job, fantastic power feed!

[@Ujeb08]

A very nice little project Stefan. The only thing I would change is with the PVC motor cover. I didnt see any vents to allow for cooling. I believe that over time the trapped heat from the motor might cook the electronics.

[@francescomidknight8621]

wow, another great project, I really admire your work Stefan!

[@ashleyhouse9690]

Even though I have no need of something similar on my mill, I watched the two videos and enjoyed the techniques and skill involved immensely. I especially liked the way you demonstrated the finished project at the start and then showed how you achieved that which saves us having to imagine what is going on as the videos progress. I wish many other KZbinrs would take this approach as it is very often difficult to visualise just what the finished project is going to look like even if you understand what it is that is being built. I also like your presentation style as well where you do mundane tasks off-camera instead of 30 minutes of a part being faced-off for instance. :o) Keep up the good work!

[@LV2XPLR]

Awesome work, each of your videos has me learning more. I'm not sure if it's needed, but because you have a speed sensor and Arduino, you could easily control the PWM signal to more precisely control the quill speed. I have done it for other applications and its neat to see the motor power crank up as you try and slow it down.

[@fdegeorge2000]

Very nice, good job Stefan.

[@RoboCNCnl]

amazing work as always Stefan !

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you :)

[@timtrott4145]

Very nice job, very clever design. first rate execution.

[@jsteifel]

Nice work as always. Very nice engineering.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Excellent, very impressive. If I ever get the ambition I may copy that.

[@ClockwerkIndustries]

That pantograph machine is badass! Great job on this!

[@christopherscott6435]

With the Arduino you could have a separate program for drilling that would pause the feed every few seconds to break the chip.

[@JBFromOZ]

Brilliant finish excellent execution Stefan!

[@imysteryman]

Very Impressive, I have a friend that has a machine shop and he is very smart, I told him about you and his reply is that guy is a real tool maker.

[@cliffordarrow6557]

Very cool! Thanks for sharing. You have a good, earnest video personality that is a treat to watch.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you :)

[@donaldcopeland4805]

Dam your very smart. Can't wait to get to see more of your work good job on this design

[@watahyahknow]

was wondering if the setup would stop at the end of the travel , was thinking on using the microswitches inside the machine for the tap function to stop the mainmotor and perhabs reverse the spindle motor but the slipping clutch works too and is way eazier looks nice , works good too

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

3D printing covers is a whole heap easier... I also use Auduino nano for speed control & indication. I am guessing, from the way the reading bounces about, that you are counting magnets per unit time. You get a more stable display by timing between magnets (RT timer + interrupt). Still needs some averaging, but a lot more stable. If either of your belt wheels are steel you can detect the 'teeth'- more detectors = better reading. Otherwise a disc stuck to the front of the mainwheel with dark and light sectors and a photo-detector. Printed out, or etched on your panto it could be super accurate and stable. Probably simpler than inserting 18 magnets. But great project!

[@erichope1103]

The german word for Perfection : Gotteswinter :)

[@thaiexodus2916]

Just an FYI, Working with PVC, epoxy putty is the weapon of choice. Rough the PVC slightly and use force to get it to adhere properly. Once hardened, it can be machined just like machining the plastic. I would have given the perimeter of the PVC a locating groove or just notches to keep it centered on the aluminium.

[@merlinmagnus873]

Very nice. Since it is a DC motor, you could add an intermittent pause that could be turned on or off to break the chip when you're drilling so you don't get those long spirals wiping about.

[@mk2cnc98]

Another fine project, well done...........

[@JoggingWithForks]

Excellent video as always!

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. Very, very nicely done sir. I thought that the clutch mechanism on the handwheel was super interesting. I often have problems finding solutions like that and make mine far too convoluted and complicated.

[@vernonkarm8016]

Happy New Year Stefan. I really enjoy your work. Thanks for the entertainment and education.

[@bcbloc02]

Very Very nice! Convenient to have the built in slip clutch safety. :-)

[@skeeter50001]

Fantastic Stefan, great work, good video, great idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@robertkutz]

stefan what a great build.

[@BickDE]

Nice piece of work Stefan! Looks professional (and it is). Bob

[@ChrisB257]

Mr Precision rides again! Lovely work Stefan.... Ausgezeichnet :) Side thought - wondered about sometimes with drilling needing to 'peck'... manual feed then presumably. You really do have some lovely equipment.

[@clemwyo]

As always, very nice work. Craig

[@thosoz3431]

Beautiful work as usual . Thank you Stefan. Unfortunately without an explanation video of the electronics, as concise as your mechanical offerings, I could not consider the build as that is my weak point. This was also true of the mill bed power feed series which was something I would have liked to build. Regardless, I always look forward to seeing your consistently inspiring work .

[@stevelummis7837]

great vids . i've been thinking about doing one for my mill for months now but was stuck on how to mount the motor but not now plus i am thinking of using a limit switch on down feed

[@ronpeck3226]

Outstanding build! Any follow up would be great! Dial, Electronics, Clutch etc... Thanks, Ron

[@63256325N]

I agree with all the other commenters, quite a good job. Looks like the factory put it there. ~ Cheers.

[@lbcustomknives]

Fantastic mate hope you had a good Christmas buddy. take care lee.

[@capnthepeafarmer]

I know this is old, but if you want to increase the resolution of the hall effect sensor, you could make a small steel toothed wheel to fit over the timing gear. That way you can have 50 tooth resolution to more accurate readings.

[@DanielSallros]

Very nice! see that I was totally wrong about what you were doing with the Arduino and motor driver you posted on Instagram a while back :)

[@pravado81]

Excellent work! Love the project.

[@bhartwigutube]

wow I've never used acetone for cementing plastics - not sure if methylene chloride works for PCV or not but I have used it a lot for ABS and acrylic; it works great.

[@joshua43214]

No need to make guesses about it. Just get some pipe compound from the hardware store :)

[@Thunderbelch]

The end result is uncompromising perfection as usual! \m/

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you :)

[@ttjarrett]

I've made many of those black boxes prototyping at work. The wiring's a mess, the code's unreadable but it works. Close the damn thing, cross your fingers and never look inside it again!

[@roscocsa]

Having had my fingers drug through those old washing machines with the rollers, "hurts like frig" is quite accurate.

[@robertklein9190]

Me too, crawling on the floor, stuck index finger in the exposed gear drive under the washing machine and split it wide open. After70 years have scar for proof. Didn't know at the the time what "frig" meant.

[@CatNolara]

You should try "UHU Hartkunststoff Spezialkleber", I have also glued PVC and ABS together with that stuff, works really well.

[@tyhuffman5447]

Thank you Stefan

[@steamsee]

A quick tip: If you are looking to make superglue fillets, like on your belt guard, add the superglue then sprinkle with baking powder. Makes a full fillet that dries instantly.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Old model makers trick! Did that back in the day when I built plastic models...and completely forgot about it. Thanks for reminding me :) (Glas beads from the blast cabinet work also very well)

[@ElectricGears]

A fairly easy upgrade to the motor controller would be to add a sensor to the spindle of the mill that could give the microcontroller it's RPM. Then you could have a button to switch the display from mm/min to mm/rotation so you wouldn't need to calculate the chip load. I don't know if it would be all that useful, but I was thinking about being able to easily reverse the feed. If you cut a groove in the center of the splined pulley and reduced the length of the sliding key, the drive would be in neutral when the key is centered in the pulley. Pulling the knob in or out would engage the splines. If the original shaft was drilled all the way through, your control shaft could extend out of the end and operate a switch that would run the motor. Pushing the shaft in would activate a forward switch, while engaging the rearward splines. Pulling the shaft out would activate a reverse switch and engage the front splines of the pulley. It would probably need some form of a detent to make the neutral position easier to lock into.

[@joshua43214]

Nice idea. You would run into an issue engaging the splines since the shaft is not turning until the key is fully engaged. You would have to use either something like a transmission synchronizer, or a friction clutch. The synchro would run into it's own problems when the quill is at the top of its travel if the splines need to rotate so it drives the quill upwards. Might not be a problem if the quill bumper is soft enough to compress easily though. Maybe you could just increase the splines to 8 and put a knurl on the knob. that way one could manually rotate the shaft up to 45 degrees to engage the splines.

[@ElectricGears]

You're right about the difficulty in engaging the key when it isn't rotating. I think the groove would need to be wider than the key and have the switches positioned so that they start the motor just before the key would drop into a spline. Increasing the number of splines would be good too.

[@lorenlieder9789]

Very nice Stefan!!

[@CJ_LEGAN]

Nice job. Looks good and works! Thanks for the videos. CJ

[@literoadie3502]

Do you just use the big crank on the left of the machine to move the head up and down? Is there any slop in the z-axis ways? I love the look of the disengage/engage knob, looks really professional! Great job!

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

Excellent improvement! I wonder if the carbon dust from the DC motor brushes will ever be an issue?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Time will show ;) But I am not worried about that.

[@DoRC]

looks awesome. one question, what does the driven pulley ride against on the front side? Does the dial ring prevent it from drifting forward?

[@samueltaylor4989]

Try lacquer thinner for glue welding pvc, if acetone doesn’t touch it, I guarantee lacquer thinner will! I can’t think of anything that won’t be affected by that stuff!

[@jeffreylehn8803]

totally enjoyed this build

[@maxfarr4142]

Nice work. Any chance you can do a quick 'show and tell' on your depth stop/ dti setup?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Been there, done that :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/apa8kGuteLt6g8k

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

Really elegant solution

[@gertskjlstrup1804]

Perfekt!!! Very nice work!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you :)

[@darryldodge8383]

Hi, Any thoughts on reversing the motor when boring, to then feed out, as a "spring cut" ? Beautiful work as always.

[@kdesign101]

As always fantastic. Do you only use denatured alcohol now, on both steel and aluminum? I use the thickest cutting fluid and hate the mess it leaves. Would love to hear your preference.

[@pbgd3]

would love a video on setting reductions and templates on the deckel

[@TheElderlyBiker]

Excellent and informative video as usual.

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed....super build

[@davestrong6472]

That cover would be a great 3D print.

[@ScotsFurian]

Excellent work as always.

[@bobengelhardt856]

Very (!) nice! 3:36 "I had the pantograph set up slightly wrong." What was wrong?

[@maxrunout2989]

Excellent series as always, Stefan. Thank you for your efforts. A solvent that works perfectly on PVC is Butanone, also known as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). I use it in a small dispenser with a needle tip for welding PVC. I also use shredded PVC mixed with MEK to make a calk that works well for making fillets

[@maxrunout2989]

I made an error here. I got my plastic acronyms mixed up. The type of plastic that I weld with MEK is ABS. I don't know whether MEK works with PVC or not. Sorry

[@danielo9408]

Hi Stefan, How is the power cross feed for your mill going? Excellent project BTY.

[@molitovv]

'Works Like Frick!' Love it

[@Zorgoban]

Cool! Jetzt fehlt fürs Bohren nur noch eine Pecking-Funktion! Hab auch erst kürzlich eine Selektion dieser billigen Arduino Boards erworben. Bisher hab ich an meiner MB4 ja noch gar nichts verändert. Und die ToDo-Liste wird immer länger.

[@moonpup6262]

happy new year

[@johngunn7947]

Tell us about the cool little orange knife?

[@sheppomiyazaki3498]

Hi Stefan, great job as usual, how did you get the lcd light to shine through the black PVC casing?

[@BerndFelsche]

next time, monitor the speed of the smaller belt pulley's drive shaft. you then need fewer pulses for the same end resolution. "ideal" would be to get into the input side of the reduction gearbox... so one pulse per revolution of that gives you all the resolution you'd want... but those geared motors are sometimes not amenable to reassembly after teardown. nice machine hack and an instructive video. p.s. simple engagement with key works. another way, depending on shaft and gear sizes, may be to "borrow" syncro rings as used in automotive gearboxes.

[@CatNolara]

Some geared motors have a bit of the shaft sticking out on the back side, you can put something with slits or holes on there and a forked optical switch with that the arduino can count the rotations.

[@EZELab]

Nice work.. But why didn't use Stepper motor for this job ? I think it will be more accurate, You can run it at any rpm you need without any sensor, Also you can make it run for specific length than stop ?

[@joshua43214]

What you described would be much more complicated and add nothing in terms of accuracy. The motor RPM is controlled by the pot, the sensor only drives the display. It is possible to program closed loop into the Arduino, and then set up a PID. But why? With all the gear reduction involved, there will be almost no RPM reduction under normal load. Setting it up to stop just gets into ugly territory, suddenly you have to either add a display and keyboard, program it via stick, or hook it up to a computer. All that to do the same thing that his hard stop already does perfectly. Keep in mind he sold his CNC machine over a year ago because he prefers to work by hand.

[@eddyfontaineyoutu100]

Don't be shy to show your Arduino code ! Most experienced programmers use examples, snippets, copy/paste etc Very nice addition to your optimum milling machine !

[@John_Ridley]

Arduino is perfect for one off projects. Don't apologize for using them.