The first 9a in the world

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Action Directe is a legendary route in Frankenjura climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and it is the first 9a in the world. I had the opportunity to do few trips to try the route, and send it in a total of 6 climbing days!

[@steghiso]

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[@laurent-minimalisme]

the ad insertion in this video was more brutal than the crux in the climb 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@steghiso]

And guys remember to subscribe, at 100k I'll publish Excalibur Uncut!

[@bennyneedsbeta8377]

Wish I could subscribe twice!

[@sethgilbertson2474]

​@@bennyneedsbeta8377 Me too!

[@DL-Davide]

Thanks, old Stefàno

[@IronGland]

and send Burden

[@carlovankarlson3718]

I really hope the youtube algorithm gods are in a good mood in the next week.

[@BerndThomasSchuller]

Apart from Wolfgang's first ascent, the most impressive ascent of Action must surely be Melissa's

[@BranwellHaworth]

Didn't Ondra do it at the age of 15 or something?

[@user-bx4zq7fx7e]

And Alex Megos in 2 hours lol

[@laurentdavou3339]

Thanks for making a video of 22 minutes and 22 seconds; that's awesome!

[@steghiso]

And releasing it on February 22nd

[@moathalmasri9985]

I’m watching this after 22hrs of it’s release 😂

[@Yakushii]

My penis is 22cm.

[@laurentdavou3339]

@@steghiso I commented it at 22h22 ;)

[@ArrampicataGolden]

Thank You Stefano for this wonderful video. Thank You for sharing your story. PS :I will be very happy to see also Sara climb on her's project .

[@owenwestpoley1652]

Please never stop recording stories with old stefano!!!!

[@brettyost6426]

Gullich wore Boreal Lasers, a soft high performance shoe. By '91 there were good shoes available.

[@kurtzepausekurtzepause1695]

love the old school climbing movie intro and music

[@beezow7113]

Congratulations on climbing the world's first 9a! Really amazing for this sport!

[@3dorz]

Nice to see Iker Pou even for a few seconds, a second ascent of a futuristic line like that isn't something easy

[@martinskalli5381]

second ascent: Alexander Adler

[@Airsofter3009]

I think it is the very first time that I get to see the first part of the road being climbed. Thank you for sharing that with us.

[@brenogomes1778]

Congratulations on the climb! nice message you said at the end!

[@Soulcap1818]

Genuinely the best climbing video of the year-instant classic. Action Directe has always been so cool, but this video finally did it justice imo

[@masterpropper2485]

People are always so over-enthusiastic 😂 I really liked this video. But "best climbing video of the year" (even if the year is only 2 months old)? Come on...

[@jongray4828]

Videos are only as good as the thrill you get from watching people be successful at this level!

[@steveilg6134]

Wow, all that on one page! 😂 As a climber from that era, thank u 🙏🏾 Keep crushing and honoring lineage ♥💪🏾

[@tomasvazquezamos3459]

It's hubble time baby

[@denislejeune9218]

Wish you'd also go for Huber's 9a, curious to see more of them, Ohm etc.

[@zeidler8445]

Om from Alex Huber was the second 9a worldwide

[@charina_custodio]

We need a Ghisolfi and Megos KZbin collab!

[@francescorui6503]

Old StefA'no non si può sentire! Un altro bellissimo video!!

[@federicopi4996]

Sì non ho capito perché lo pronunci così 😂

[@maratt1914]

Masterpiece of a video. You can tell Stefano is just a great guy!

[@Mike-oz4cv]

I always wonder how much harder old routes have become because of all the polished holds.

[@mozag87]

Grazie Old Stefàno. Sei di grandissima ispirazione! Alè!

[@heighRick]

GG Stefano, what an accomplishment! Thanks, helps a lot.

[@Leander_]

Congratulations on the send!

[@stacky512a]

great footwork

[@cameroncunningham4520]

Your videos are awesome. So glad I found this page. My new favorite climber and climbing channel!

[@brendanacord]

Wow, didn’t know the history of this one, what a cool story! Also Old Stefano is a great pitch man…

[@joshuaschoeffield7516]

Got the gameboy camera out and everything.

[@victorfagundescarvalhomelo7248]

I hope your channel will grow a lot this year 👏

[@andreasvalen8802]

Oh i can already tell I’m gonna love this from the first 10 seconds!

[@threedog27]

Ahhh Action directe with its legendary one finger pocket. Welcome to germany Stefano! Maybe you do a trip with adam to the saxony sandstone area ;)

[@dgmckim]

love the cameo from pete whittaker's crack climbing book

[@CollinGill7]

such an incredible route

[@breaktheresistance]

Congrats on the send! Loved this video & the storytelling. We're here for any video where Old Stefano makes an appearance 😄🙋🏽‍♀️

[@Gregorstuvw]

Nice video, Stefano, as usual! But Wolfgang was not the person who found the route and bolted it, it was actually Milan Zikora.

[@steghiso]

I didn't know, sorry for my mistake!

[@HannesHuch]

@@steghiso Great Job! To be absolutely correct it's spelled Milan Sykora, who opened many great lines here in the Frankenjura (He's the smiling guy at 1.32 min). Milan saw the line, realized it was too hard for him and told Wolfgang about it. Fun fact about Wolfgang's tries: He never warmed up for Action Directe :) Not recommended I guess. All the best from the Frankenjura, Hannes

[@dwaynekoblitz6032]

So good. A fantastic journey.

[@elfriederich]

Yeah! Really enjoyed watching it. Thanks for sharing your path.

[@ccaputa]

Congrats, Stefano. You're a good man.

[@MS-fg8qo]

Glad that you went to climb it!!! Great video.

[@FredT34]

I's so nice that this route is still mythical and The One

[@jonnensen]

Stefano sending with hat on, he's a boulderer confirmed

[@CollinGill7]

loved the intro

[@pierftw]

love old Stefàno stories :)

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

A little flatulence on that 80-year old 1-armed pull up is aid.

[@HikeMoreWorryLess]

Every people say Action direct was the first 9a and it's true, but I love the story of Hubble

[@Vertikal1000]

Technically Hubble was climbed a year before Action Direct. At the time none of the first ascendants (Moon and Güllich) claimed the grade 9a. Moon used the English grade E9 7b. Where 7b there indicates the hardest move, but covers a broad range from appr French 8c to 9a+. But it was also claimed as the worlds first 8c+ at the time Güllich used the German / UIAA grade XI which correlates to 8c+ /9a on the French scale. He never claimed the grade 9a (he died the year after) but that grade was proposed and confirmed by the subsequent ascensionists. The two routes are different in several ways. Hubble is very dependent on good conditions and maybe isn’t that great of a line? But still insanely hard. While Action Direct is much more popular with close to 30 ascents. Just a few climbers have climbed both routes, and basically they have refrained from actually weigh in the grade comparison. Megos didn’t want to grade Hubble after his ascent, and that’s ok. He is a Frankenjura local, and has climbed all (and I mean all) the hard routes there. Maybe he was just polite when he was in England, but to my mind it sounds like he didn’t really didn’t praise Hubble that much. So there you have it. Maybe Hubble was first 9a, but Action Direct was a bit harder within that grade? And AD is the better route? If you want to dwelve into this topic, try listening to the podcast ‘Written in stone’ where there’s several episodes on this.

[@aleksanderholleran1425]

Time for Hubble!! If you can do hubble BOD should be easy.

[@janiromunozinvestigador]

tio old stefano, te tkm 🙂

[@albertosanchez-carralerofr5871]

Hey @steghiso great video man! Thanks for the content. Question: if you were to grade the first move individually as a bouldering move, what grade or grade range would you give it?

[@picasadeluxe]

"Die, Die" sounds a bit hard for such a good performance ! Good manners are rare in the gyms ! :)

[@laurentiuposarlie9503]

Good job Stefano paying respect to the great Gulich and repeating this iconic lie!

[@masterpropper2485]

The best thing about this video is that when he said he will stop with that old guy's voice and continue in his own voice, there was not really a difference 😂

[@Rodjeure]

Hubble, climbed by Ben Moon in 1990 one year before AD, could be the first 9a. Anyway congrats Stefano and thanx for this great vid !

[@masterpropper2485]

Could have, would have ... 😉

[@marcchrys]

Yes, the title should have been "probably" or "possibly" the 1st 9a? European climbers tend to be a bit dismissive of British climbs.

[@masterpropper2485]

@@marcchrys Should be "arguably" :)

[@kuckkuckrotmg]

How amazing are the holds, are rhey like 6mm crimps with almost impossible moves?

[@NPC-fl3gq]

Now come to Australia and climb "Punks" - please ❤

[@matthewsevers5862]

Nonno Stefano is so wise

[@raulsuarez5421]

it would be very interesting if the same person can climb Action direct and Hubble for comparison. I've heard that AD's translated grade In to french grading would be 8c+/9a..just like Hubble, a hard 8c+.

[@zeidler8445]

Alex Megos climbed both, says Action Direct is very much harder.

[@marcchrys]

​@@zeidler8445 I think someone else said they were both 9a. Very different climbs/different types of climbing. Ondra hasnt repeated Hubble.

[@maxunknown91]

Il Gameboy Camera lì a fianco è davvero un nice touch! Stampante la abbiamo? Te la presto? :D

[@steghiso]

Mi piacerebbe fare delle foto di scalata e stamparle!!

[@Cookie_Monster42]

Dear Stefano, I really love your channel - and you are my favourite Pro-Climber anyway. Congrats to redpointing Action directe. The name "Action directe" is french, not english! Almost no climber pronounces it correctly. 😐

[@Particularpete]

What do you think it takes for someone to hit that jump move on the flash? Being lucky? I was rooting for your flash even with it being crazy ambitious.

[@Connor_M.406]

I think I popped my A3 from watching this

[@paulmitchell5349]

Moffat and Gullich both knew they were making history. That was their intention.

[@carlopandini8784]

is the frictitious mounting system available in Europe? :)

[@petethepeg2]

Hubble , it seems was the worlds first 9A .!

[@alexanderbonnet3494]

Is it 9a or are the new routes 9c? When the 5 degree-rules do not match ? F.e. 7a onsight..7a+,7b,7b+, 7c redpoint limit…

[@Ben-ew3hv]

Stefano climbed Hubble? Can't wait for the vid (jk we all know qui is the first 9a)

[@geo3043]

Did wolfang gullich do the toe hook beta?

[@willmabe1918]

What time travel technology are you using to post this in 2024? just curious

[@the_zenclimber]

It’s fake. After posting he edited the date to match 2024…

[@thomasditsas976]

What was the initial grading of the route?

[@alexskelton3331]

Hubbe was the first 9a 😊❤

[@masterpropper2485]

Nope. It could have been, but Moon graded it 8c+ 😉 Also, it's actually more a boulder problem than a route... 🤐

[@drstrangelove85]

4:34 looks really painful. Hope Sarah was fine!

[@BeneB924]

is it possible to mount the beastmaker on frictitious Hangboard Doorway Mount?

[@steghiso]

You can mount all the hangboards you want

[@BeneB924]

@@steghiso ok many thanks^^ and thanks for all you are giving to italian climbing realty

[@gustlfaller4494]

Yellow Tshirts are only allowed for Alex ;-)

[@franmontes8596]

I think it was La Rambla...

[@semilog643]

Maybe it's finally time to say that this is a sandbag even at 9a.

[@Cerio95]

quando un giro su hubble?

[@magmar-wt5on]

Uuu bella cerio! Grande fan del canale!😊

[@marcwolff1921]

Wasn’t it discovered by Milan Sykora?

[@steghiso]

I checked and Wikipedia says Milan Sykora was the bolter, my mistake, sorry.

[@hernandez12345able]

So this is what it looks like when a 10a climber climbs 9a

[@realidadaparte]

Hubble is not and it never will be the first 9a just because the first ascender was strong enough to consider it as 8c+ or just he didn’t dare to propose it as 9a. Whatever is the truth, Güllich had the guts to propose the first 9a and hence there is no discussion that Action Directe was the first one.

[@Cqat1]

What O grade is that

[@Jagknorr]

Whats your favorite regular gameboy game?

[@purpasteur]

''no, just toe hook''

[@meradost2399]

[@Bryce433]

great lol

[@PuffDaddy05216]

Hi

[@anarchie1612]

Moi c’est la vidéo de Ludo Delmotte que je veux voir 😢

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

9c onsight 😂

[@federicodematteis6500]

Si vola

[@estherferrari7279]

Hubble was the world's first 9a.

[@zeidler8445]

No, Alex Megos climbed both, He says Action Direct is very much harder. There was never a Discussion that Action Direct was the first 9 a.

[@estherferrari7279]

Take it up with Ondra @@zeidler8445

[@estherferrari7279]

or anyone else that has done Hubble except Megos the consensus is 9a

[@paintingsofwaves_mikewoning]

@@zeidler8445 Action Direct was never graded 9a... it was an 8c+.

[@zeidler8445]

@@paintingsofwaves_mikewoning yes, thats right. But the who is who of climbers over the last 30 years (in special in the first 15 - 20 Years) say that is a solid 9a or a benchmark for 9a.

[@leham27]

Studying up on crack climbing?

[@massimotosi7277]

Also not even

[@lilith5958]

Good climber, but very bad actors...😮

[@Charlierock590]

….che palla con sto inglese 😂😂😂…e parla italiano , ciccio ….🧐

[@steghiso]

Se parlo italiano ci capiamo io e te e basta