Step By Step Board & Batten Diamond Kote Siding Installation - LP Smartside

[@pamabi9668]

I've been looking for a thorough Board and Batten tutorial and this was amazing! Thank you, super thorough 😃

[@miillersconstruction]

Thats honestly one of the reasons I decided to film it. I did not see any other Board & Batten videos that I felt explained things in depth. Thanks for watching the video! Check me out on Instagram @miillersconstruction for more tips and tricks.

[@tomduval4262]

With expressed concern about allowing the boards to expand, thus leaving a gap between the vertical boards , why not nail the battens directly on center in the gap of the boards underneath? That would allow expansions of the boards, right? The batten, from my understanding, is not meant to be used to secure the boards, but rather to allow drainage (as originally engineered) away from the underlayment. Doesn't nailing the battens to the boards underneath inhibit the ability of them to expand and contract?

[@miillersconstruction]

We follow the manufacturer's instructions. The nailing pattern in this video is exactly to spec with those instructions. You'll have to ask the engineers that came up with those instructions.

[@manifestmetalroofing]

Did you also use 5/4 trim on corners, doors and windows, since you installed the trim 1st and butted up to it?

[@miillersconstruction]

Yep 5/4 everywhere. We use Diamond Kotes premade inside and outside corners with the nailing fin and it's 5/4 material.

[@ianwhitehead2119]

Do your corner verticals sit onto the horizontal control and do you use the z flashing? Nice vid. I saved it as I have a job coming up with this siding. Thank you!

[@miillersconstruction]

Yes we prefer that look. Diamond Kote tells you that you can install it either way as long as you have enough clearance. We feel like the starter board dying into the corner just looks cleaner. Personal preference. Thanks for checking out the video!

[@adamshoemaker143]

Do you guys caulk all your battens?

[@miillersconstruction]

We do not. It is not required by the manufacturer and we actually dont care for the way it looks. Thats really the beauty of the Diamond Kote system. Not much caulking required now.

[@mdub5078]

I thought I saw a balun laying on the ground and then I saw the tower…73 and thanks for the video

[@aguilamarf1]

Great video, you make it look very easy.

[@miillersconstruction]

Thanks! I hope it helped.

[@zeeracine7690]

hey i was womdering 2 things. do you use the LP supplied caulk for filling nail holes? also would finish nails be acceptable for batten installation? were using the thinner battens

[@miillersconstruction]

Great questions. It really depends on the nail hole. If they are over driven nails, yes, use the color matched caulk. Sashco Exact Color is fantastic for this as a side note. I would definitely not use finish nails for the battens. I am curious how thick they are? Either way, siding nails will actually accept paint and blend with the texture better. Just remember when touching up those nail heads, only paint the nail head itself. Dont paint anything else!

[@13612]

I don't see any head flashing or flashing at the skirt board...is this just a caulk joint for you?

[@briansdumbchannelderpy6986]

Been waiting for this ! Thanks

[@miillersconstruction]

Hope it helps!

[@MsDancingenius]

When you run that baseboard and then you run the panels 3/8 from it do you caulk that or that just stays exposed and is finished like that?

[@miillersconstruction]

It stays open. If you caulk it, you will essentially be trapping water behind the siding and voiding the warranty as well. They also dont want the siding sitting close to surfaces that COULD hold water, so thats another reason for it. Good question!

[@joelfrench4937]

Do you use z metal on the bottom trim before butting siding above it?

[@stoneg8jackie]

Thank you for the video as we're just about ready to install the LP Board and Batton siding and they didn't have a video for this product. I do have a question though, LP recommends priming and painting all cut ends and we never saw you do that, is it necessary to prime and paint the cut edges? Thanks

[@miillersconstruction]

It's 100% necessary. With Diamondkote though, the ends of the "battens" we're already finished. Remember, "exposed edges" or "exposed joints" are exactly that. If they are getting caulked, they do NOT have to be primed because the edges of the materials are not exposed.

[@hoosiercarpenter6149]

I’ve talked to lp and diamondkote reps and none of them have ever said it’s okay as long as it’s covered. They all have put an emphasis on ALL cut edges need primed. Where did you get that information? I know the install instructions says exposed edges need sealed. But talking to reps they act like warranty won’t cover anything not primed/painted.

[@jonathantangjerd]

Maybe an odd question, but do you caulk the battens to the boards? Like the face joint. Not the joint between boards, but batten to board. Lol thanks in advance

[@rachelosterday5428]

Do you paint over the nails in the end?

[@miillersconstruction]

@@rachelosterday5428 yes. Diamond Kote has a new really nice tools to help with this. The key is to only paint the nail heads, nothing else!

[@NewEndProductions]

what's the difference between the diamondkote website and lp's website? i can't figure out the difference

[@miillersconstruction]

Diamond Kote is built using LP Smartside. They take the siding and make it much better and easier to install. They also apply their industry leading 30 year no fade finish. If you're even considering installing engineered wood siding, trust me, get diamond Kote!

[@NewEndProductions]

that's interesting. i am doing LP board and batten to my house this spring/summer. and didn't know about diamond kote. I'll have to educate myself more. I'm not sure what they are doing that improves the original LP @@miillersconstruction

[@miillersconstruction]

@@NewEndProductions rabbeted nailfin trim, rigidstack, rabbeted nailfin outside and inside corners, rigid mounts with built in drip cap and nail fins. I could keep going but you need to look for yourself. The paint technology they offer is just the beginning.

[@CalVettese]

Great video. Thank you!

[@nrehberg]

Great tutorial. Does LP sell matching paint, or what do you do for the touchups

[@miillersconstruction]

Yes we always get a touch up kit. They sell several different sizes. You can even purchase entire gallons

[@Natedoc808]

Yes they sell the kit, and you're supposed to use it on any cut ends if you want the warranty to apply

[@adamshoemaker143]

Great video by the way!

[@miillersconstruction]

thanks!

[@matthewhewitt5613]

You are ripping that kid off.

[@miillersconstruction]

Yeah we are LOL!!!

[@johnowens178]

Great job on these videos they sure are helping a lot. Can you tell me how you made that custom J block for the electrical panel?

[@miillersconstruction]

Man I wish I had filmed a KZbin video of that process. I do have an Instagram video of it if you check out my page over there. Basically we just built a frame out of 2x4s, attached it to the wall, the wrapped it in Diamond Kote.

[@johnowens178]

@@miillersconstruction awesome! I just went through your videos to 2021 and didn’t see it. Do you know about then you posted it? Thank you!

[@miillersconstruction]

@@johnowens178 August 13, 2023

[@johnowens178]

@@miillersconstruction thank you I appreciate it

[@MsDancingenius]

Do you caulk beside each batten strip?

[@miillersconstruction]

No. It's not required and if any moisture gets behind the battens, it will flow down and out. That's why they require a drainable house wrap. We use Benjamin obdykes hydrogap or the Diamond Kote 5D house wrap.

[@MsDancingenius]

Awesome thanks for the reply :) another question? Do they make colored flashing that goes above the windows and doors so it won’t be an eyesore? I’m gonna do lp smart side on my house, thanks

[@miillersconstruction]

@@MsDancingenius great question! Yes they do, all different colored flashings prebent and ready to install in whatever color you want that matches the Pre-finished siding perfectly. They will even sell you a roll of the coil stock in any color for custom bent pieces. No other company selling engineered siding does this that I can find. Diamond Kote is the ultimate Pre-finished siding.

[@ban80]

You forgot to prime your cut ends

[@miillersconstruction]

I prime all cut ends that aren't getting sealant. Which cut ends are you referring to specifically? The bottoms of the battens are prefinished from the factory if that's what your referring to.

[@CMCraftsman]

The cut that sits on the spacer board on top of your drip cap. I’d hope you’re not caulking that line.

[@miillersconstruction]

@@CMCraftsman every single exposed end cut is primed, including the end that's ⅜" above the drip cap as required by the manufacturers installation instructions. Stop looking for mistakes in others work. It's got to be a sad mental state of mind.

[@amyjograce5911]

Thank you, this was really helpful

[@MontegutMQ]

Why put a runner at the bottom of the the siding? It’ll just catch water.

[@miillersconstruction]

To match the rest of the house, which is what the client chose, not us. When it does catch water, it will just drain away from the house. It's installed over drainable house wrap and has a drip cap installed on top of it as well.

[@joshmathis6789]

old man like can we get to work

[@InspireOthers2023]

Do you paint over the nails with the same color ? Does the company offer

[@miillersconstruction]

Yes. They offer various sizes of touch up kits.

[@atozzyoing]

Why did you not use a flashing on the bottom board?

[@miillersconstruction]

@@atozzyoing we did?

[@lukestevenson7358]

Curious to see how you trim around a door. If you take the brick mold off, and put trim around it, do you put the trim first or the board first? Do you put the trim over the board? Then you’d have a 7/16 gap between the door jam and trim

[@miillersconstruction]

For doors, we always install the trim first. You basically have to or you will end up with a situation like the one you described. Just cut the vertical siding nice and tight to the trim, and leave a little extra space under the batten for expansion. Caulk between the vertical siding and the door trim. Its a nice look and its worked very well for us.

[@lukestevenson7358]

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. I’m installing this stuff today on a job!

[@miillersconstruction]

@@lukestevenson7358 that's awesome man! Diamond Kote is our favorite siding system.

[@alfonsoandrade3121]

y’all hiring?

[@steviebrown7478]

Did you order the boards that color or did you paint them your self

[@miillersconstruction]

They were ordered that color. Diamond Kote Pre-finished siding is on another level. 30 year no fade guarantee.

[@steviebrown7478]

@@miillersconstruction thanks 😊

[@noahmohamed2129]

الله اكبر

[@marrked646]

Playing a dangerous game mixing that laser distance measurer with a tape. Anyone reading this after the fact, make sure your tape measure isn't a 1/4" short. Test your tape measure length against the laser on the first board. Some can be up to 3/8" off.

[@miillersconstruction]

I have never once had an LDM off more than 1/16". What brand you buying man??? LOL!!!

[@marrked646]

@@miillersconstruction Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I was talking about the variance between tape measurers. Not the laser. The tape *could* be different than the laser by as much as 3/8"(extreme cases).

[@miillersconstruction]

@@marrked646 oh you were clear as can be. When I cut crown, I use an LDM to get my measurement, then use my tape to mark it on the crown. I have been through 3 different LDMs and all of them matched up with my tape within 1/16". Whatever brand laser you've been using, maybe you should switch. Never had that much variance. Maybe it's your tape?

[@Black_Dirt_Contractor]

I agree with checking tapes for inaccuracies. I want my tapes to match my stick rules. I've not bought tapes because none of them in the store matched. And its very common for all of them to not match. Next time you walk in the tool section, grab tape measures and compare them to framing squares. You might be surprised how different they are. I have 2 LTM's, and they don't match my tape measures. They're good for rough measuring though

[@brucejones8032]

Where can you buy this stuff?

[@miillersconstruction]

Contact Diamond Kote. They will set you up with a retailer.

[@timothybrown7779]

Man you are a Good Teacher. That was very Thorough. I had to subscribe 😊

[@miillersconstruction]

Glad you liked it! Appreciate that!

[@13612]

16 feet doesn't make sense if you're walls are 10 feet...that's horrible waste for a pre finished product.

[@miillersconstruction]

So you would rather have a joint on the gables? Not me man.

[@13612]

@@miillersconstruction I would have a joint on my gable either way...my gable on the rear of my home and garage is over 20 feet. I'm referring the sides of my garage which are 10'. I was contemplating using this on my garage siding versus James Hardie like I have already on my home and the gable portion of my garage from left overs.... Not me man? I would have 6 feet of waste is more like....not me man.

[@miillersconstruction]

@@13612 Well I'm not the engineer that designs this stuff so you'll have to complain to diamond Kote about that. Also as a contractor, I can tell you without a doubt, we appreciate the siding coming in 16' lengths regardless of the waste. This gets us out of that joint on most single story homes.

[@13612]

@@miillersconstruction I see the advantages of that....not complaining. Just saying it's not the answer for everyone's build. I was researching for savings and for a product I could attach without having nothing but sheating for a substrate/my garage is 24" o.c.. I may still go with this product, but the board and batten at 16' still doesn't give me a seamless and cutting off 6 ' feet would be an absolute waste for me. I think it's good, but like other products....being able to buy different lengths like lumber would better their sales and open up their market more...nice appearance all said and done, good job.

[@miillersconstruction]

@@13612 Not sure if Diamond Kote still sells it, but they used to have this exact same product in 4x10 sheets. That would get you out of the waste situation. The sheets would be required if your not going directly over structural sheathing anyways. The thing you have to remember with Diamond Kote is this - It might seem like your wasting a lot of product for your particular job using the 16ft material, but that 30 year no fade warranty means your not going to have to even think about painting it for 30 years. Thats saving you a ton of money in the long run. Hope that helps.

[@centexan]

I'll never understand why people like board and batten.

[@miillersconstruction]

I think it looks awesome. I'll never understand why people paint their brick homes white.

[@centexan]

@@miillersconstruction You're right about painting brick. But they COULD cover the brick with board and batten. That would be infinitely worse. 😁😁

[@miillersconstruction]

@@centexan your right about that. They should tear the brick down, THEN install B&B.

[@centexan]

@@miillersconstruction 🤣😂🤣😂 The only way board and batten can be worse is if the board is actually T111.

[@miillersconstruction]

@@centexan you got me on that one 🤣🤣🤣

[@yoshooah]

When running board and batton LP you need to install a rain screen under the siding.

[@yoshooah]

Horizontal installation it isn't necessary

[@miillersconstruction]

@@yoshooah rain screens are great. But we installed Benjamin Obdykes Hydrogap which is a drainable house wrap approved for use under LP.