Step-by-Step Guide to Airbrushing Lures for Beginners!

[@PENFOLD1962]

A very clear and concise video thank you.

[@lureblanks]

Thank you for the compliment !

[@clownshoesfishingclub9616]

Great insight. Thanks for the vid.

[@lureblanks]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for the comment! 😊

[@michaelpatrick6840]

Watch this and other teaching vids about mixing reducer’s etc. You are not wasting paint spaying on blank paper, you’re learning. I hate to admit it, but I was an 8 year beginner. Most of us are not born with this talent, so don’t be afraid to listen to those willing to share their knowledge. Thanks for sharing.

[@lureblanks]

Thank you for the kind words Michael! That made my day!

[@MAGNUSDRONES]

Enjoy your episodes. I’ve been watching a lot of your projects and learning a lot. Thank you.

[@lureblanks]

Thank you Jim! Really appreciate the kind words! 😊

[@billbarber9424]

Outstanding tutorials..... Thanks!

[@lureblanks]

Thank you so much!

[@moquant947]

👍

[@laserdoc85]

great video man

[@lureblanks]

Thank you!

[@PENFOLD1962]

Since watching this video I have a question! I have ordered my first lures to paint they are only 10cm long but are swim lures, they have always caught my attention but they are hinged about 5 or 6 times. The hinges are made of a material tape from the front of the lure to the back! They are coming from China so I've plenty of time to research all the problems and since ordering I have thought about painting the lures by hand at first with acrylics. My problem will come when I have my airbrushing gear together! How should I paint in between the hinges where the tape is exposed? Would painting the tape hinder the swim pattern of the lure? Plus how on earth do I paint on the sealing coat such as 15 minute resin (top coat) without it going on the hinge tape? I have chosen the wrong lure eh! I should take up Golf instead eh! lol. I wanted to ask someone who knows everything about lures but he's not at home so I'm asking you...... Only joking, you're the perfect guy to ask. I've seen your end results and that's what I strive for. Sorry again for the long message. If you don't have the time to answer I will understand 100%. Take care my friend 👍😷👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@lureblanks]

No worries Andrew, I will answer whenever I find the time. Oow hinged or jointed lures are the hardest to clearcoat in my opinion just because they take longer. The tape like material is actually Kevlar 👌 , paint will not affect the swimming action and when you are going to fish it deu to friction and water it will dissappear a little and become white again. I find the easiest way to coat these is by hanging them horizontally upside down on the hook eyes. This way if the epoxy runs down it will not run in the hinges but for a little thicker drop or coat on the back of the lure. Apply very little epoxy and take your time. Although 15 min is not much 😄 but it might be in your advantage too because the epoxy will have less time to accumulate on the underside of the lure. Others like to putt rubber bands in between the hinges, this makes the lure lose it movement and makes it easier to paint. And when clear coating , again apply very thin layers so it won't run down to much. The bands will protect the hinges 👌 Let me know if you got any further questions on that ! Kind regards Wannes

[@PENFOLD1962]

@@lureblanks Oh so good and bad lol. I don't mind the time as long as I'm doing it correctly. I didn't know that it is Kevlar! Something else I have learned. So would it be better to put thin layers of top coat on to stop it from running and dripping onto the next piece of the swim bait? Well they're only cheap lures I thought that they would be perfect to practice on. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it.

[@lureblanks]

@@PENFOLD1962 That is correct, thin coats are better so it does not drip in between the joints and soaks the Kevlar 👍

[@manuelfuchs78]

Wannes one thing i would like to know. what pressure setting are you using in this tutorial?

[@lureblanks]

In this video I was using createx opaque black with about 30% 4011 reducer at 20psi 👍 could have maybe lowered my airpressure a little more (about 15psi) if I wanted to do finer dots and have no spiderwebbing or blow outs 😊👍

[@lureblanks]

Some extra info on my answer, the reason I also mention the paint and reducer ratio is because the airpressure is also depending on that and what airbrush I use and what I am going to do with it ( base coating, basic painting, or detailing)

[@manuelfuchs78]

@@lureblanks thx buddy and due to you tipdry video i ordered Vallejo reducer now finally 😆 thx for that as well 😀

[@lureblanks]

@@manuelfuchs78 You are welcome! Haha awesome! You are not going to regret it 😄👊

[@nikolajc7617]

You tell its not about the quality of the airbrush and yet you show us a cheap airbrush but you use an Iwata when you actually paint in the viseo.😂

[@lureblanks]

Haha i know, ironic right! 😄I could achieve the same results with a cheap airbrush is all I meant, never the less it is often easier with a more expensive airbrush, especially cleaning goes faster with the Iwata. Im just trying to explain that experience,practice and skill are more important then the airbrush you use 😉