Stick Welding with 7014 Electrodes

[@RedIron1066]

Use a lot of 7014 for general repair & fab work. I find it runs better on DC, towards upper end of the amp range. Also need to run more rod angle to avoid wormholes. Years ago I was doing a custom baling job & broke the hitch on the baler. Limped it out of the field, cleaned up the break, welded it up & fishplated the repair. Old guy came out to check on me & commented “looks like you know what you’re doing” Wasn’t until he died years later..read his obituary and saw he’d been a pipeline welder & boilermaker for 30 years! High praise!

[@larrycopenhaver]

how is it on an ac macine

[@yurimodin7333]

@@larrycopenhaver its descent, grab a small box and give them a try. Its kind of like 6011 but less violent.

[@tomsmith9281]

I was really struggling with 6013 running a vertical weld, and became really discouraged. I headed over to Canadian Tire to pick up some 7018 and 7014 to test them out. I had much better luck with the 7018, but I still wasn't happy. Then I switched to 7014, and I was just floored at the difference! This will be my go-to rod at this point. Really happy to see this video (after my struggles), but I'm having a great time reading some of the comments. Really encouraging. :)

[@djsnowman06]

Fellow Canadian Tire welder here. Were those the Lincoln Fleetwelds? I bought some 7018 for practice but am very curious about those 14s.

[@OtisFlint]

IMO 7014 is one of the most underrated electrodes out there.

[@bruced1429]

I have used 7014 for years, it is really good for tacking and I have used it often. While not as ductile as 7018 it is just as strong. If you are not doing code work or structural work then 7014 is just fine. To get a good release of slag run it at the higher end of amps and wait a bit before knocking the slag off. I have used it fixing rusty snow plows and large snow blowers, any thing needing a quick repair. It was called the farmers rod in days passed.

[@Littrell1966]

It is what we used in high school in the 80's. We only had AC Lincoln tombstones. I have a trailer I built in high school and still using it, must have been okay!!

[@jefffrayer8238]

Seems odd to teach welding and never used 7014 before. Using 3/32 rod isn't the best choice to evaluate as it's just not the same as 1/8" rod on 3/16" + thick material. 7014 is all I use for farm repair and fabrication using hot or cold roll. Most anyplace sells it right along with other rod. Can sit on the dry shelf here in Michigan for 2 years and still weld nice. Slag falls right off if you have amps right and wait for it to cool. I've never had any of my welds break. 7014 lays a nice and strong bead like he shows with minimum skills. Tip for new welders: Before welding with a new rod just strike it on scrap stock till it holds an ark for a couple seconds then procede with welding. Save the shorts for doing tacks and short tricky spots instead of using full length rods. Nothing gets wasted.

[@Antoniocool86]

@@jefffrayer8238 how does it do on thin metal with a smaller rod and low amperage?

[@jefffrayer8238]

@@Antoniocool86 I don't do much thin metal but there is 1/16 available and has to work better that 6013. I do use 7014, 3/32 on like mower decks or 1/8" thick square tubling with good results. The thing is it doesn't cost much to buy a pound of rod and try it out especially when others share their results.

[@shermanyoung8185]

​@@jefffrayer8238 I just bought a 5lb# container of 5/64 7014 from Blue Demon, the rod is a slightly larger diameter than 1/16 but just a little smaller than 3/32,to experiment on some 1/8 mild steel test plate this weekend 🤔

[@apexcustomsmokers]

I always used 7018 until I was at the Canadian version of Harbour Freight (Princess Auto) and seen 7014 on sale, tried it and never looked back. It's awesome for tacking, and restarting as you just proved in your video. Thanks Tim! Not a lot of welding channels showcase 7014, it's kind of a hidden jem.

[@dennisyoung4631]

I swear by blue demon’s 5/64 7014. They “start like fresh matches.”

[@shermanyoung8185]

​@@dennisyoung4631wow that's amazing and good to know because I just bought the same rods and like the way they came packaged, the operating range on the container says 60 to 90 amps ,I was wondering what amps range works best for your results?? I'll be welding mostly 1/8 steel repairs and some light fabrication around our land property ,thanks 🧑‍🏭

[@dennisyoung4631]

@@shermanyoung8185 I recall 65 amps DCEP ran *good* on the welders we tried them on - two transformer welders, and one inverter. Nice-looking welds that seemed amply strong, in 1/8 inch steel “plate” and strap. I hope to get more of those rods in the future, along with another, *better,* inverter welder - one which has hot-start and arc-force, so as to run the dreaded cellulosic rods!

[@shermanyoung8185]

@@dennisyoung4631 ok thanks sounds good ,I'll be trying them on my Hone 185D 120v/220 with built in arc force /hot start, Guozhi multi process 200P 120v/220 and Yes welder 135 flux/stick welder,they all run 6013,6011, and 7018 fairly well,except 6010 ,I run them off a 6250/5000 watts Powermate Generator ,thanks for the info,by the way just seen on Amazon Blue Demon 5lb. box 7014 1/16 rods for $20

[@yodasbff3395]

I'm a hobby welder and have always used 6013s and have never produced a weld that looked as good as what you just showed. If I can find some 7014s I will give them a try, thanks for the information 👍.

[@huszaratraktor]

I'm not even a hobby welder, I'm just a guy that bubblegums some metal together once in a while. It's just my opinion but, for me personally, using a 7014 rod instead of 6013 was like using a fountain pen after cracked pencil. It just... feels better

[@Ckeaton1991]

Believe I got mine from Tractor supply.

[@mrjodoe]

6013 electrodes can be rutile cellulose (RC3) or rutile (RR6), 7014 electrodes are rutile cellulose (RC11) RC type rods can be welded downhill.

[@angelaprater2679]

When you do get 3/32 and not 1/8 rod if you have 140 amp or less

[@LukeA_55]

I truly think 7014 is a hidden gem. Don't have a way, nor want the trouble of keeping 7018s dry. I'm just doing farm repairs and what not 7014s run smoother than a 6013 and are just as strong as a 7018, I have yet to find something bad about them. Not trying to knock you but that slag will peel right off if you do it right

[@hunterbidensaidslesion1356]

The charpy v-notch impact toughness of 7014 is on par with 6010 and 6011 in the as-welded condition (about 50 ftlbs), quite a bit lower than 7018's 80 ft lbs. 6010, 6011 and 7018's impact toughness increase quite a bit with a stress-relief heat treatment, whereas 7014s drops slightly.

[@hunterbidensaidslesion1356]

This information is from the Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding by Lincoln Electric.

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

​@@hunterbidensaidslesion1356 Lincoln has their 7014 (fleetweld 47rsp) charpy at about 27 ft pounds, about the same as the upper end of the charpy range for 6013(fletweld 37rsp) but with less variation. Which makes sense because they are both rutile flux on similar rod alloy with xx14 having some iron powder for faster fill (and 7024 just being 7014 with extra iron powder). ESAB doesn't have charpy for 7014 but it has the same elongation and more reduction in area compared to their 6013, their 6013 is significantly stronger than their 7014 both in yield and ultimate. It was last week that I happened to look it up, I don't recall the exact 6010 and 6011 specs but the toughness was not too far from 6013. ESAB has about four 6010s so be sure of the exact product. (They also have a half dozen 7018s with different specs for special purposes like stress relieving or low temperature use.)

[@mjm7187]

A welder at a die shop referred to this as a drag rod, the thickness of the flux on the steel maintained the ideal arc length. Demonstrated rod for me and then had me try it. Great looking weld and flux peeled off without a chip hammer.

[@YT-User1013]

Yep. When I couldn’t strike an arc without sticking or burning holes I found the 7014 months ago.

[@pondacres]

My man! 7014 is my jam! Well I ain't a great welder, but I do alright enough with 7014.

[@tonphil1960]

Best all around rod there is. Any position. Over dirt etc. never sticks like 7018 and welds cleaner. We used it exclusively in the trailer repair business, other than MIG of course.

[@mihalyracz7674]

7014 is like the combination of 6013 and 7018, you get the best from both worlds: You get an easy to strike rod you can use on old AC buzzboxes on field repair job, while they are stronger than 6013 and much cleaner welds ( I mean with 6013 it's way harder to separate the slag from the actual weld pool, 7014 has heavier slag), so for field application and repairs I'd totally recommend it.

[@Str8sixfan]

first welder I bought (used) the P.O. had some 7014 that he gave me with the buzz box. I got very familiar with it so that's all I bought moving forward. I prefer it over 7018

[@JBAutomotive794]

Was welding in the rain today with some 7014, ran great.

[@larrynjr]

new to stick welding and been struggling with 6013 & 7018. will get some 7014 ASAP and try it out!

[@larrynjr]

So I finally got some 7014 rods and I LIKE THEM! I have an old welding table that I got from a scrap yard that was 5'x30" and weighed close to 300lbs. I cut 2' off it and welded legs to the longer piece using 6011, 3/32 rod yesterday. My best weld looks like a cross between dried snot and bubble gum. today I welded legs to the shorter piece tonight with 7014, 3/32" and the difference is night and day. My worst weld tonight was better than my best one last night. super easy to start the weld, fairly clean straight welds. If you've never tried them, do it!

[@dogleg6669]

I've found that 1/16th E7014 when I can find it is good for sheet metal and auto body tacks. But like I said in the last vid just starting to learn wire feed after 30 years of stick.

[@miszced]

Geezers, you must have one heck a steady hand for 1/16" stick welding? What's the weld rod lenth, certainly not 14"? Also, GMAW or FCAW whole lot easier since the change over?

[@dogleg6669]

@@miszced don't think I've ever perchanced a rod shorter than 14", on thin rod to help keep things steady just cut the rods in half. Only working with Flux core wire so far tanks and gas are getting to expensive for this retired Army and on a fixed income.

[@Antoniocool86]

How does 7014 compare with 6013 for thin metal?

[@luciusirving5926]

@@Antoniocool86 7014 is easier to use for tack welding. Better for freelancers, artists and farmers. No tacky slag to worry about either. Like the beginner's real stepping stone to TIG.

[@luciusirving5926]

Definitely the best rod for cosmetic use if you don't have access to 7024s or TIG. I wish that there could be an aluminum equivalent of 7014 that would be as capable of running on AC. Maybe it will be possible in the future.

[@richardfuerst5286]

Interesting. I have acquired some 7016. Runs a lot like 7018 but re-strikes are easier.

[@shermanyoung8185]

@richardfuerst5286,where can you buy 7016 welding electrodes,who sells them??

[@rubenMarquez37]

Mr. I really enjoyed how you explain Thank you very much, From Mexico. 👍👍👍

[@johniron88]

Been using 7014 ironworking for years now. Some times on pour stop and flashing but always on stair pans

[@michaelhui7545]

I just got some 3/32 7014, and i think it fills a certain need. For me i was practicing some open root vertical up with a 2.0mm 6013 and found no suitable amperage. It is incredibly hard to make the rod deposit as much as it burns out. To increase deposition increase amperage, but then you have to push the rod in too fast making it hard to handle. This is where the 7014 shines imo, i can run it in its mid range amperage and the rod consumes at a manageable rate. If you're ever in that situation give 7014 a try.

[@brandonbraun8306]

I've used 7014 for years...never once has the welds ever broke...thay sure run on a wide amperage wich is great for welding thin to heavy metals...I just recently bot a 10lb box of 7014 3/16in rods....wow talk about one hell of a bead

[@maplemanz]

I love 7014.

[@josejavierhernandez5132]

Today was my second day of welding ever and we are using this rod but I was wondering if you can show how you set up ur arm and do u put the rod at a angle or is it straight above the metal

[@tyroneclarke1666]

Thank for sharing your knowledge Tim. Which rod would you recommend for general use at home, a 6013 or 7018. I picked up a little DC welder and the store gave me a box of 6013 saying they are best for a beginner. Regards from Perth WA 🇦🇺

[@InchFab]

There really is no magic bullet. They all have a +/- More options equals more better

[@mrjodoe]

@Russ Katona 3/32" 6013 RC3 for tacks and 1/8" 7016 for welds are also a good combination running same amperage

[@user-uh9xk7bm7h]

At the steel plat we use 316 7014 is like a drag rod burns off lotta flex on it burns off Fast. He’s a nice looking well, but not for up.

[@Hey_Its_That_Guy]

Good video, Tim, thank you. Other than easier arc re-starting , are there other advantages of 7014 over 7018?

[@InchFab]

It digs deep.

[@Antoniocool86]

Storing it. It won't absorb moisture from the air like 7018 will.

[@luciusirving5926]

Easy to use on AC. Regular 7018s need more powerful transformers to weld on AC.

[@user-uh9xk7bm7h]

At steel plant they recommend P5 6011 then go with the 7018 load hydrogen

[@butchvandyk1051]

thank you for all the good info

[@shanemiller6947]

Brother get you some 7014 hippie the red ones love this rod that's if you can find hippie rods anymore iv got a lot of them still love to send you a few pics

[@thurlravenscroft2572]

It might be spatterier. Great video!

[@Ckeaton1991]

I sometimes wonder if 7014 is a good alternative to 7018 for at home work.

[@InchFab]

Not really. It's way too different to replace 7018

[@Antoniocool86]

@@InchFab how so? Is it not as strong as 7018?

[@megodzillaudeadable]

How do you store the 7014 rods in your shop? Do they need to be kept in an oven or would an indoor, climate-controlled house be OK?

[@OtisFlint]

No oven needed

[@rehmangusandapiary9024]

Great info Tim! I must say that your normal enthusiasm seemed off in this video. I enjoy your videos and am considering your online course!

[@TimWelds]

It was over 100 degrees F in the garage, probably why the energy was a little low. 😀

[@usernamemykel]

@@TimWelds Sounds like a normal day in south Florida.

[@RogierYou]

Thanks 🙏

[@bigdave6447]

According to Lincoln Weld Directory ,polarity with 7014 is ac or DC- .

[@philipholness2560]

Can you run on 110v

[@attilahun77]

If you have a chance to place hands on "Rutilen 2000s" made by "Jesenice" factory EU, try them.

[@user-uh9xk7bm7h]

7018 is the best for all around gotta use a P5 or 6011 or 6010 and then well it was 7018 then if you’re in doubt that go 316 316 stainless

[@johnfolk4348]

Tim, what polarity when running the 7014? DCEP, DCEN, AC? Thanks Good video

[@TimWelds]

It works with any of them. Generally DCEP works best, DCEN will give reduced penetration which is nice on thinner material. AC is usually used with transformer machines that only have AC available.

[@DangerousDaveKincaid]

Hi Tim, I purchased a 110V Tooliom $100 stick and lift TIG welder just for quick jobs where I don't have to get the bigger welders out. I have been having all kinds of problems running 7018, then I remembered I had sticks of 7014 like boxes of 7014 that are about 30 years old. To my surprise the 7014 ran great. I though they would had been junk but then its been quite some time since I done stick welding. Just not sure what I am doing wrong with the 7018. Wants to stick all the time and then if I pump up the current the weld is flat and kind of shinny. Suggestions.

[@TimWelds]

7018 will take more amperage than other rods of the same size, so it could just be an amperage issue. If you aren’t burning through or getting undercut, the higher amperage may be okay. Also, if the particular 7018 that you have is DC only, running 7018AC can work better with inexpensive little inverters (even though they are DC machines). Beyond that, it may just be that the particular machine is just a bit weaker off the line and 7018 tends to stick a bit more than other rods.

[@DangerousDaveKincaid]

@@TimWelds Thank you so much for your support. Not very many people comment back. I must say though this little Toolium weld does work pretty good. I am going to practice more with bumping up the amps. Also looking into your course. Dave....

[@Dibulok]

What is the big difference between 6010, 6013 and 7014?

[@OkieRCguy]

Hey Tim, are you familiar with the E6012 welding rod?

[@Antoniocool86]

Is 7014 just as strong as 7018? For example can 7014 be used entirely to build something like a trailer that will be used to haul up to 8,000 pounds regularly? Or should something big like that be done with the tried and true 7018?

[@philcal2000]

I've been welding for at least 45 years, 7014 are iron power rods and give you a softer weld , 6013 are general purpose and a bit harder, 7018 have a higher tensile strength the steel will break before the weld, 7018 is all I use....

[@usernamemykel]

Tim, which brand did you use, please?

[@PaydayGabeBCNV]

Thanks Tim👍,, always good to have different options available. Who is the Mfg of the 7014 rod's??

[@miszced]

Pretty well all who manufacture stick. The big ones in the states are Lincoln & Hobart.

[@mrjodoe]

ESAB OK 46.16

[@robertkylethomas173]

Hey Tim do you have any tips on how to change dinse plugs on an inverter welder

[@A7Xafterlife94]

I believe Pete's Tools on youtube has a good video on replacing the male and female ends of a dinse connector. I'd post a link but it might be a little distasteful to post other youtube channels on someone else's. Worth checking out. Good luck!

[@thurlravenscroft2572]

I think the technical term is spatterier.

[@sheilamclaughlin963]

Always disliked 6013 and 7014, liked 6010 or 6011 and 7018 with heat, seems to weld better the hotter

[@edgarhasbun5950]

I have never seen it here in my local store warehouse

[@usernamemykel]

Time to relocate?

[@user-uh9xk7bm7h]

The color of the dummy rot anybody can run a 7014 if they get the heat that form

[@arthurmorgan8966]

Hey Tim, Ever reviewed E7016 / LB52?

[@shermanyoung8185]

@arthurmorgan8966,who sells E7016 ?I would like to buy some

[@arthurmorgan8966]

@@shermanyoung8185 commonly sold as LB52

[@melgross]

I’ve never used this rod. I can’t decide whether it really worth bothering with. Looking it up, I don’t see any general advantage over 7018.

[@pondacres]

Restarts. If you got a bunch to tac weld in one go, good luck with 7018.

[@TimWelds]

If what you have is working for you, I wouldn’t bother with it. I do agree with Pond Acres that tacking is easier, but you can always use a 6011/6010 for that.

[@melgross]

@@TimWelds I don’t know, tacking isn’t so hard. A couple of taps is usually all it takes. A lot of that depends on the machine. If they have a hot start, as mine does, tacking is easy. If they don’t, it could be difficult. A lot of inexpensive machines can’t even light 6010 or even 6011.

[@nodaklojack]

If storage is an issue then 7014 may be preferred.

[@anandsurujpaul5690]

Bro I need one of that htp welder to buy ?

[@anandsurujpaul5690]

Where can I get one to buy ?

[@davidcrumrine1165]

If ran correctly 7014 will peel up just like 7018.

[@stejcz]

I saw kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZnKdn-sq56Lopo and it looks like penetration of 7014 is pretty bad. Anyone with similar experience? I can't believe that when I see the comments to Tim's video that the rod would perform so badly.

[@Rudy97]

6013 is only ok for butt joints, anything else gives a terrible result. Maybe get better? But why waste effort if something else does it better?

[@zenteno5p]

Whta's the purpose use this rod?

[@usernamemykel]

Welding

[@architude]

Uh-Huh. Your becoming borderline here now.

[@Venom-nk8nd]

🇵🇬🇵🇬,.,.

[@ruld9600]

7014 it's a relative of 6013? Oh, boy...🙄

[@pondacres]

Yeh what happened was, 6013 and 7018 hooked up. 9 months later, out popped 7014.

[@usernamemykel]

Kissing cousins - incestuous!