EthAnswers The Truth On Bandsaw Guides! Why They Don't Matter For Resawing + Guide Comparison

Once again Ethan puts common sense before traditional thinking! He brings out 5 of his bandsaws and shows all the different bandsaw blade guide styles; steel, ceramic, cool block and roller bearings. He gives his opinion on the absolute best guide system your bandsaw can have as well as explains the true purpose of bandsaw guides. His answers are simple yet very controversial...a must watch!
Cool Block Guide Upgrade - stockroomsuppl...

[@yaseenali4449]

*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line. See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.*

[@randywl8925]

Instead of adjusting the side bearings independantly, i removed the guide setup from my Rikon 10-305 and made an entirely new setup. My my side bearings are permanently spaced at .031" theyre mounted onto a short section of red anodized T-track. You loosen a screw, slide the bearing holder right or left to center the blade between them, then snug the screw. No more adjusting each bearing separately. Same simplicity with the thrust bearing. My new setup mimicks the original bearing placement of the Rikon design, but there are now just two moving parts. Thrust bearing moves forward or backward. The sde bearing holder moves the two bearings right or left in unison. It would never sell, it's way too simple. 😁 Thanks for explaining the tick, tick sound 👍

[@CzarGuitar]

Your farm auction gray bandsaw that has the steel bearing blocks is made by DURO, and is a fine saw if you can get it running. I have the 16" version, made in the mid to late 1930's, and it's a BEAST. Since yours doesn't appear to have the screw adjustment for the table tilt, but rather the arc trunion, it was made post-WWII. Hope you keep it and make it whole again !

[@charliemurphy3529]

So, how about a video where you are cutting wood "straight" without the guides installed - or so far from the blade that they would never touch. The idea is that it would be great to see your technique on that.

[@StockroomSupply]

Here you go! kzbin.info/www/bejne/apyQo2irqdKIaLMsi=5upTO7RG16U-PuXO

[@gearhed1971]

We cut thick wood, if the guides aren't super tight clearance tolerance, the blade wanders. I set for -.010 clearance. I actually need to have the guides close, we will get a cut that is 1/8 out of spec with a 1 1/2" resaw blade. Our saw gets abuse, no doubt.

[@CC-gv6us]

He's right about the wet wood buildup. I got a Jet 14SFX literally to mill green logs and on my first one my blade has a ton of buildup on the sides. It has the same type of side guides he was referring to.

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

I’m having a problem with my old Sears craftsman tilt head saw. Every single time when I attempt to cut anything and it doesn’t matter what it is or it’s thickness or the pressure I cut with, blade always tracks to my left. I’m thinking now that the blade weld is catching on the thrust bearing and twisting it.

[@StockroomSupply]

Sounds like a case of blade drift! This video explains where it comes from and how to get rid of it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/a36coIKJlLqDjbMsi=-1wi8Vr3tAD_IrR2

[@dennisfast1706]

This was a exceptional video on making a decision on what I want on my bandsaw. Cool blocks it is.

[@chrisjarvis9300]

Dang this has been super informative! Ive been struggling with figuring out all the things i need to know about my bandsaw and this has helped me gain some confidence in testing some ideas out! Thanks for this!

[@charlesmdasilva]

So my take away...... If you are resawing make sure the blade does not ever touch the side guides. Letting it touch the side guides will take the set out of the blade and the blade will not cut straight anymore. Take very good care of your resaw blade to keep it cutting straight with no drift. And, lowering the top guides down to close to the top of the board is only for safety, since the blade should not touch the guides anyway. If you cut curves, first switch to a different blade. Then use the side guides to help as you make the turns. Touching the side guides will still take the set out of the blade, as mentioned above, and it will then not cut straight. But we are now cutting curves so "straight" is relative now. You just hand guide the wood to your line. Use that blade as your dedicated curves blade (since it will now not resaw worth a darn...)

[@schattenmygirl]

Thanks for this video It is a good one. One concept you should mention is that the guides are there for a safety net. I had not thought of the bearings pressing the dust and sap onto the blade.

[@StockroomSupply]

Thanks Larry! Glad you enjoyed the video

[@TheDevnul]

I’m going to buy a bandsaw soon. Your videos are super helpful. Thank you

[@allenr6406]

Thank you for answering my question before I asked

[@barryharrell3355]

I emailed the company who sells the Cool Blocks but they never answered. I wanted to know how to cut the Cool Blocks to fit the Rikon 10-326 or if they were made to fit. They show a listing specifically for the Rikon 10-326 but have not description. Do you know?

[@michaelogden5958]

So your "Cool Blocks" on the Rikon 10-326 are round like the bearings were. On your website, the picture shows actual blocks when the Rikon 14D is selected. Are the Rikon 14D blocks indeed round? Pretty much plug and play? Thanks!

[@StockroomSupply]

They are round yes! We do need to update that picture…thanks for the reminder 🙂 But yes just plug and play 👍

[@johnp1839]

Where do you get the circular cool block blade guides?

[@rebeldog6630]

regrind blade weld to remove click.

[@mmouse6938]

where did you get the round bearing replacement cool blocks? this question has been posted before with no answer.....

[@kreggraham]

Where did you get the round cool blocks to replace the bearing guides?

[@garygiovannoni4662]

Ethan I always enjoy your videos. I have the little ripper, great product by the way, however I have the unit that slides on the tube. The holes where you attach the unit to the bandsaw seems to always fall where I move the unit back and forth and when I tighten the unit the tightening bolt often times land right on the hole. It will not tighten. So do you folks have a plug the fits that hole or do just need to adjust the ripper.

[@vlajsvlajs1547]

@EthAnswers, hi sir, i'm realy interested in geometry of hooks on your bandsaws that you are using. In your opinion what is the best hight of the tooth, tooth spacing, also how far are hook tips drown to side left and right before the bansaw was sharpend?? I wolud be very greatfull for any info.. Best regards form serbia :D

[@vlajsvlajs1547]

I'm sharpening bandsaws mainly for 14'' 10-325 or similar saws used for cuting log, in purpose of burning and heating... i can send you picuters of my mschine setup.. i'm using volmer liliput senior sharpner..

[@4vinos]

I have an older delta 14 inch band saw. The table is not level but, when I check my blade with a square, it is straight. Why is my blade straight all around but my table is not? (I have cool blocks) I don't know how to replace the trust bearings on the bottom because there is no to get to it. Your help is appreciated. (thanks for sharing your experience with the guides)

[@Safetyworx]

Great infomation. Thank you. I just bought an older Craftsman 12" (Model 113.243311) that needs cool blocks, fence, and a cover for the belt. I'm open to upgrading but have no idea where to get parts, except to the blocks (and I'd like to upgrgade those to bearings). Any recommentations would be gratly appreciated.

[@looselycollected7505]

Trying to rebuild an old bandsaw that I found on a curb for free. It's an old Sear Roebuck Dunlap model # 534.01120. I have already found some replacement wheel tires for it. And I think I can figure out a motor, pulley wheel, and belt to drive it. And I'm sure I can find replacement blades. But I'm interested in what I can and can't do with the blade guides on it.

[@jeffoldham3466]

i have got the rikon 10-305 and it is a good saw,,,,but the sliding blade guide on the front of saw is a nightmare,,,,i hate it,,,it would so so much easier to have a door that would open up to install a new blade,,for that reason,,im looking to purchase a saw that does have it

[@MrBluesluver]

Nice and informative info video. Makes sense to me. I just bought a cheapy 9 inch table top band saw (Manard's Performax) for light to moderate dyi cutting. I didn't notice until setting up the blade that it has pin guides. Should/can I upgrade them?

[@danphilpott6302]

Awesome video

[@barryharrell3355]

What did you use to cut the Cool Blocks with? It looks like they are only square.

[@krashunburn]

Did you make your circular cool blocks for your Rikon or did you buy them? I have a Rikon 10-325 and cannot find the circular blocks anywhere. Thanks.

[@tamcaj]

Toujours instructif ce Ethan !

[@bensiemers5094]

Hi, seeing that you have a few bandsaws, what is your preference and thought on the Rikon overall vs Laguna, if you had to pick one to buy? I am looking at the 14 inch and am a bit on a teeter totter deciding. Thanks for the great video. Ben

[@wadesaunders583]

wish I knew all this a year ago...wonder if I could outfit the cool blocks on the Laguna 14bx?

[@paulnye1899]

Ethan, Will the Rikon 10-326 cool blocks fit my Rikon 10-306 bandsaw? Also, if they will, does Stock Room Supply sell them?

[@pastortommynelson1]

Ethan, I own a newer model 10-324 Rikon bandsaw. I have retrofit it with the 10-900 tool-less guides. In this video you have this Saw with what looks like the same tool-less guides but with cool block bearings. Do you carry those at stockroom supplies?

[@thespanielinquisition7167]

Blade guides setup is absolutely vital to good resawing and this advice is ignorant of the physics of resawing, the close side guides are there to stop the blade TWISTING on resawing as you push into the blade which makes the blade want to twist which in turn begins a curved cut which rapidly gets worse and ruins your straight line cut.

[@StockroomSupply]

Respectfully I disagree with you :). Watch me cut in this video without guides and VERY low tension on the blade; kzbin.info/www/bejne/apyQo2irqdKIaLM

[@rudythecat7320]

Instead of replacing a front facing thrust bearing with a side facing one, couldn't you just locate the weld on the blade and file it smooth and flat?

[@ArvidDarmond]

Yes, he mentions that at 5:53

[@eagha50]

Hi Ethan! Excellent video, that makes complete sense! I have an old Grizzly 18" band saw with the face on bearing that clicks. I did add cool blocks but the click is irritating. Any suggestions for a different guide for this saw that will give me the rolling bearing? Thanks!

[@StockroomSupply]

Glad you enjoyed the video! The only company that I'm aware of that makes an edge facing guide system for the grizzly is Carter. Here's a link - www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-conversion-kits/grizzly-18-guide-kit If you do decide to get them the bearings can be upgraded to cool blocks as well!

[@eagha50]

Thank you! The reason I'm even considering replacing them is the guides are literally falling apart, so I need to do something before they break completely!

[@michaelleal416]

Good Day Ethan. I have a King Canada 1433FXR 14" Saw. Do you have the round Cool Guide blocks to replace the guide bearings? If not, where are they available. Thanks, Mike. ps: very informative videos.

[@StockroomSupply]

Yes we do Mike! King has two different bearing sizes. If you email the OD and ID of the bearing to me I can point you in the right direction. [e-mail] Thanks! Ethan

[@henrysscrollsawworks6367]

i have a g0555 grizly where can i find the round cooling blocks??????????can you help?????

[@marshalldewitt6211]

The side guides you replaced with cool blocks that look like bearings: Where can those be found?

[@spkendrick]

What do you think about carter's stabilizing guide for curves?

[@StockroomSupply]

I think the Carter stabilizer is a great system if you a doing organic curves. It does not well when you are trying to follow a line for template work. Stick to cool blocks for that.

[@spkendrick]

@@StockroomSupply do you all sell the cool blocks for the 10-325 saw ? i have the upgraded bearing kit from rikon

[@StockroomSupply]

Yes we do! Just scroll down and click the rikon 10-326 under model to get the correct style. stockroomsupply.ca/shop/bandsawblades/replacement-bandsaw-guide-cool-blocks.html

[@user-yw8yn7qe6e]

Thank you for the information. I wander what the cool blokes made from?? What material i can use instead?? Good day 😊

[@Bill.L.Carroll]

Thanks for that, mate, very informative and concise. 👍 What's a set of the round cool blocks worth?

[@StockroomSupply]

Thanks Bill!We sell the Cool Block Upgrade For the Rikon 10-326 for 19.99. Here's a link to them on our site;stockroomsupply.ca/shop/bandsawblades/replacement-bandsaw-guide-cool-blocks.html

[@Bill.L.Carroll]

Stockroom Supply cheers, mate.👍

[@tmuka]

@@StockroomSupply does that set also work on the Jet 14" to replace the roller beatings?

[@charlesmerrifield1734]

hello great video,on the market for a new bandsaw looking at the rikon 10-347 but can find a review?????

[@StockroomSupply]

Hey Charles, The reason you can't find a review is because no one has them yet! Just last week after waiting for months we got our first 10-347 in and the same day it was purchased by a very anxious customer. Now again I must wait to play with one. As soon as I have one here I plan on doing a review!

[@johnp1839]

Do ceramic guides help support straight cuts better than bearing guides?

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

One needs to invest in a blade specifically designed for green wood.

[@osterangensnickeritjanst4138]

Hi do you send to europe?

[@marcosmota1094]

Skip to 2:05.

[@MrTooTechnical]

Fuking awesome

[@gearhed1971]

We have the Italian style Laguna with the ceramic guides, total garbage. They wear abstractly

[@KC-jq9kw]

OK got it on the guide blocks having nothing to do with the blade running strait. You have a complex on this point. I like your videos except for that. Enough already.

[@alheeley]

Very useful video and well presented - thanks! As a bandsaw newbie I'm getting very frustrated with trying to get my bandsaw to resaw straight. I watched loads of setup videos but as i push the wood through i end up having to turn it / rotate it left (anticlockwise) to get the cut to follow the straight line. By the time I cut 3 or 4 inches the wood is already about 20 degrees left off centre. Is this a tension issue or the position of the blade sitting on the wheel?

[@charliemurphy3529]

This video gives some ideas on how to use a simple jig to correct that... kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4fNlZ2pZtuskLM - Bandsaw Hacks - 5 Band Saw Tips and Tricks

[@wkbowser123]

Al, I have been have the same exact issue for the year that I have had my Laguna 14. After hours of set up and experimenting with test cuts I can get it to cut straight, but If I change ANYTHING I mean a different piece of wood, time of day, a taller piece, where the blade tracks on the wheel it all goes south again. It is so bad at times the there is no way my fence could be angled to track the drift. Almost every band saw guru tells you the same thing about setup and I can tell you it doesn't work consistently. There are so many variables that have to be considered that I just do it by hand and eye and forget about the fence.

[@jamesdonnelly8888]

Awesome video