Stop Filament Ooze From 3D Printer Nozzle

[@ziebe7666]

EXACTLY WHAT I NEED MAN , I kept thinking it was a material issues so I kept lowering and lowering the printing temp till eventually it clogged , this solved all my problems ✋

[@CreatewithTech]

I'm glad that this was helpful. RG

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

Thanks, I applied you solution and fixed an irritating problem that no one else could solve, I'm a happy camper 🙂

[@Kim_Jong-un1356]

I was ready to smash my printer with a mallet in pure frustration, due to an oozing nozzle. But this helped me out. You've helped lower my blood pressure and also saved me a lot of money since I don't have to replace a destroyed printer ;)

[@CreatewithTech]

I'm glad the video was helpful to you. It's important to keep your blood pressure low. :)

[@dontquestionjustbelieve5757]

thats good to hear Kim

[@lebbrin]

Just found this..... THANK YOU! Just like your demo of the issue in the intro, I was always chasing that ooze at the beginning of every print. This helped a ton.

[@teerachote]

Kinda new in this hobby and found your video to be very helpful. Thanks a ton from Thailand

[@CreatewithTech]

You're welcome.

[@kanashibari9257]

This worked right away. I didn't think I could fix the ooze and assumed it was something I would have to deal with. When I put in this gcode and watched as 0 filament oozed from the nozzle I bought lost it. Thanks!

[@thesquirrel6141]

You're a gentleman and a scholar. This was exactly what I was looking for.

[@TheCthulette]

THANK YOU! I've been trying to get our Prusa to work for the last year and a half and failing because of this precise issue and this has made it usable again! I cannot thank you enough!

[@Kennyy212]

Literally the exact problem and solution I needed. Thanks a million.

[@ImJmsOG]

Just got my first 3d printer and had a little oozing issue while printing my first layer, thats the only video i found about that issue! I will try that code for sure thanks!!

[@theisnielsen5292]

Thank you very much. Just the tutorial i needed! Had a lot of problems with initial oozing

[@railerswim]

Now I know the syntax for placing in variables in cura. I can fine tune the heck out of my printer settings now. Thank you! Definitely earned a subscription and a like from me!

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Thank you, just installed a CR Touch on my CS10 V3's and was wondering how I would reduce the nozzle temp, solved, thanks very much for this.

[@NEscape_]

Kinds sir, thank you so much I just discovered this problem yesterday when i changed to a new filament You are a life saver

[@hulk239239]

after trying to solve the oozing all other ways, this works amazingly. Thank you so much :)

[@mordrednz]

THANK YOU! Explained perfectly and does EXACTLY what I needed!

[@IOffspringI]

For PrusaSlicer users: It's exactly the same. Insert it under printer settings -> Expert -> Custom G-Code

[@l____bugc____l]

Great tips! thank you so much !! I was wondering for ages what i could do about oozing.. Thank you !

[@Persnoody]

Thank you for this, this is exactly what I was looking for.

[@alexsilveira9414]

Thank you very much. A hug from Brazil!

[@scott3708]

Works Flawless, thank you very much. Now if I could get anyone to compile Firmware for a Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch and a High temp hotend to 300°C I'd be in heaven.

[@CreatewithTech]

Glad to hear that you found this video helpful. I hope you find the hotend answer you're looking for. RG

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

I hope you have upgraded your ender 3 power supply and electrics to cope with 300º ,if its an older one check the xt60 connectors and thermistor as well....

[@Bullzak_83]

Worked like a champ. Thanks for the info..

[@nonstickpan6504]

I feel like it would work better if you retracted the pla a little instead and then it would come back once it prints the line on the side of the bed to prevent oozing when its heating up to the print temperature

[@duckjr94]

The Gcode for my ender 5 plus looks a bit different, can I still use this fix in my Gcode?

[@Bullzak_83]

Good info to have. Thanks for the information.

[@Splattacker13]

Does this work with the Ender 3 S1?

[@briankruckow5449]

I just tried this on my blender 5 pro The oozing stopped, also stopped feeding altogether?? And the 2 M104 codes seem to be working opposite to where they should so I’m wondering if this code doesn’t work in creality slicer ??

[@CreatewithTech]

Hello Brian...I'm not sure why it's not working with your Ender 5 Pro. The code being used is pretty generic. Did you copy and paste the code provided in the description section of the video to the start g code section of your slicer? My recommendation is that you try Cura and paste the code in the start section for the Ender 5 Pro profile. I'll be curious to know if this works for you. Good luck! RG

[@briankruckow5449]

@@CreatewithTech unfortunately it seems you can’t copy and paste in creality slicer. I wrote word for word what was in your file, so who knows, but I tried it in prusa with no issues.👍

[@CreatewithTech]

@@briankruckow5449 I'm glad it worked in Prusaslicer. I probably wouldn't bother with the Creality slicer unless there's something special there that you can't get in Prusaslicer or Cura. Take care. RG

[@briankruckow5449]

@@CreatewithTech hi again It also seems you can’t copy & paste in Cura as well,?? Another question, using prusa my printer seems to be printing about 10mm off centre to the right, not sure what to adjust myself.??

[@GarrettWoodoutdoors]

Worked perfectly thank you!

[@ddizon666]

hi is this correct G28 ; home all axes G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle (should i remove the this) G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp M104 S140 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup G28 ; home all axis G29 ; auto bed levelling G1 Z50 F240 G1 X2 Y10 F3000 M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize G1 Z0.28 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 X2.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0

[@phritz20]

Is it really necessary for it to perform the G29 every time you initiate a print? Why can't I just tell it to level the bed before I Preheat PLA? It adds a ridiculous amount of time to initiate a print if I have the G29 code in the printer settings. And at least I end up with at least 2-3 tries before I'm able to get past the initial layers printing properly and can walk away

[@CreatewithTech]

Strictly speaking you don't need to initiate G29 every time you do a print. This is something personal to each person. If you think your bed is level and everything is working, it's reasonable to leave it. When people initiate the ABL they generally do it after the bed has heated because they believe the results are more accurate. What I find interesting is that you need 2-3 tries before the first layer sticks. That should not happen if your bed is level. The ABL deals with minor dips in the bed, but it doesn't really help with the more base bed leveling. From what you're describing, it sounds like you need to do a macro bed leveling (using the wheels, assuming you have those) and then set your z-offset again. I would also consider changing your build plate, or at least making sure that your current build plate is clean, since that sometimes helps with the first layer sticking. RG

[@derbrot2428]

Hey, is it possible to initiate the bed leveling (G29) before waiting for the bed to warm up (M190 S)? Would it heat the bed while leveling? That would save some minuets if it works.

[@CreatewithTech]

Yes, it's possible but not advisable. Warming up the bed first makes the leveling more accurate (at least that is the general consensus). If you level while the bed is warming up the ABL may not be as accurate since the heat causes a slight expansion of the bed which might be missed, thereby making the bed leveling less accurate. RG

[@jerome1lm]

Interesting. Does the M104 override the temperature that is set in the firmware for the bed mesh leveling? Or do I have to set the temperature low in the firmware.? Thanks

[@CreatewithTech]

Hi there...the M104 command in the Start G-Code section will override anything in the firmware. What you're doing is basically telling the printer to raise the nozzle temperature to this temperature (in my case 140) and then stop. This allows the Automatic Bed Leveling to happen without filament oozing from the nozzle. After the mesh is set you tell the printer to raise the temperature to whatever you set it in the slicer for the model (so for PLA it would be around 200) and the command that does this is M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature. To answer you question directly you do not need to do anything in the firmware to make this work. Just change the start G-Code.

[@jerome1lm]

@@CreatewithTech Ok, thanks for the answer.

[@rickmenasian6774]

I found my way to the machine settings and the Start G-Code but on my Ender5-S1 the code is not the same as yours. mine starts off like this. G28 ;Home G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

[@TylerMiller-l9f]

Does this work for the Aquila x3? I can’t find a fix for this when using Cura.

[@CreatewithTech]

Hello...The g-code I'm using here is just generic g-code, so I don't see why it wouldn't work with the Aquila x3. Having said that, I don't have that particular printer so I would suggest trying it out and seeing what happens. If you notice that your printer is behaving strangely or doing something unexpected with this g-code just stop the print...but my gut feeling is that it should work just fine. RG

[@dasmikko]

Is this fix also applicable to a creality cr-6 se? I also experience oozing when it homes before print

[@CreatewithTech]

Hi @dasmikko....Yes, it should work with the Creality CR-6 SE. RG

[@mackbolan1733]

This was a fantastic tutorial and very helpful, thank you for sharing :)

[@flyingrock66]

Thank you for sharing 👍

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

Does the autoleveling on/off box in the printer leveling menu need to be checked for any of the meshes to be applied? I have a g29 in start code and printer probes the bed, but unsure of effect of the on /off function in leveling menu. Thanks

[@CreatewithTech]

Hi Norman...which printer are you using and what Microcontroller board does it come with? On my printer there is no on/off box to tick. If you're using Octoprint or some such interface you can send some G Code commands (G420 specifically) to the printer to ensure that Leveling is turned on. The G29 command should be sufficient to turn on bed leveling and do the mesh. As far as I know you don't need to do anything more. You can find more about it here: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html#:~:text=M420%3A%20Bed%20Leveling%20State,M423%3A%20X%20Twist%20Compensation RG

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

I have ender 3 v2 using jyres. G29 works fine but I noticed the option and wondered what it did. Seems like it should enable or disable autoleveling.Have 4.2.2 board.

[@waikryder6633]

any idea why I keep getting parsing error in prusaslicer when i added these lines?

[@CreatewithTech]

The code is slightly different for Prusaslicer. If you take a look I put the Prusaslicer code you need in the description. RG

[@OmarKhalilWalker]

Thank you soo much Sir! 😊

[@arnoldotrevino3193]

My printer doesn't have abs does this still apply?

[@CreatewithTech]

No...this would not apply without an ABL. Take care! RG

[@captivenut4122]

After doing some research, I see that everyone points to same direction as you for this problem, i.e. tweaks in the start G-Code. But this doesn't work for me. In my case I find that the G-Code generated by Cura, already sets the temperatures (both nozzle and bed) before the so called "start G-Code". In other words there is this section of the G-Code, BEFORE the "start G-Code", that seems to be responsible for temperature setting, that I cannot affect, unless of course I do it manually, after it's generated. Yes, I could go your route and lower the temps, after they are reached and then raise them once again in the start G-Code, but that's far from optimal. Any guesses what might be the culprit here? Is the firmware to blame maybe, so I need to change that? Would you have any ideas what those changes might be? Many thanks! 🙂

[@dontquestionjustbelieve5757]

Hey I'm having the exact same problem, you find any way to fix it?

[@captivenut4122]

@@dontquestionjustbelieve5757 Sorry, no. 😟

[@dontquestionjustbelieve5757]

@@captivenut4122 Thats all good, thanks for responding :)

[@JustCreateYou]

Just wondering how do I lift my z it does the 140 great but when it starts to get to the temp it starts to ooze too close to my bed anyways to fix that . . Like raise the z a bit from the bed when it gets to temp.then go down and start creating the lines thank you for reading btw

[@CreatewithTech]

If it oozes a bit on the bed before starting the print it shouldn't be much of an issue. I'm not sure how it would help if you lift the z axis, as it will still ooze. Are you concerned about the blob that's being oozed damaging your print bed? Anyway, if you take a look at the posted g code above, specifically this line (G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position), the Z0.3 parameter shows that the nozzle is 0.3mm off the print bed when the extruder is rising to print temperature. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it's possible to increase the Z parameter from Z0.3 to something a bit higher like Z2.0 and that should lift the extruder off the bed a bit more. Now I haven't tried this myself so I'm not sure exactly how it will work. If you do try it, just keep an eye on it and be ready to turn off the printer if it does something unpredictable. RG

[@TimMcTim1888]

Did it work? Moving Z0.3 to say 1.0?

[@xigasabouteiller1509]

You are amazing thank you

[@devinchao6816]

It gives an error on my Ender 3 v2 with the custom G code anyone no a fix?

[@SpillYahSauce]

I got a ender 3 and it got me wanting to end me lol my filament keeps curling idk wth I'm doing

[@CreatewithTech]

I hope this video helped you with the problem. RG

[@SpillYahSauce]

@@CreatewithTech I kinda gave up

[@CreatewithTech]

@@SpillYahSauce I wasn't quite clear on the problem that you're having. Are you getting oozing before the BL Touch/CR Touch does the mesh or are you just getting oozing. Give me more of an explanation and if I can I'll try to help. RG

[@SpillYahSauce]

@@CreatewithTech I'm real new to this idk why I didn't do more research I'm like a caveman to this,I'm using sunla pla + I never connected to my pc but I tried calibration of e step still no luck I have the bed heated to 50 and the nozzle at 200 when it gets hot I'm noticing the filament comes out and when it does it comes out curly like ramen noodles

[@CreatewithTech]

@@SpillYahSauce It's not unusual for the filament to ooze out of the nozzle. It's a common problem. Have you actually printed anything yet? Typically the printer will do a purge of some filament to the side of the bed so that the nozzle pressure (flow rate) is stabilized and it should print fine. Let me know if you've printed anything yet. I won't be able to answer until tomorrow sometime but let me know if you've had a successful print yet. RG

[@chleroeyes931]

I was searching for something else when I stumbled upon your video. It provided a wealth of helpful information, and I watched the entire video. I want to express my gratitude for including the code in the video's description.

[@CreatewithTech]

You're most welcome. I'm glad it was helpful. RG

[@jamesharris9894]

I just use free professional firmware can set it up there only heat bed for lvling

[@Whatisyourmajormalfunction]

will this work on my CR-10 V3?

[@CreatewithTech]

I believe it should work just fine with that printer. I don't have that printer, however, so proceed with caution. However, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. RG

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

yes it does! i have one...and it works just fine

[@alexbigelow2654]

I love you

[@tomthumbworkshop249]

Thank you so much for this. I was pulling my hair out, even upgraded to a direct drive end but your instructions solved it. Shame the "Big Boys" don't tell us this.

[@CreatewithTech]

Excellent! Glad that this worked for you. RG

[@ItsMeMustard]

Excellent!!! You should setup a tip jar or publish a crypto address. I would love show my support and appreciation

[@g00gleisgayerthanaids56]

The entire intro could have been cut and nothing of value would be lost

[@CreatewithTech]

Did you get something out of the video? I made itemized chapters that allow you to skip if you want. The intro explains the problem. How would you do it?

[@fadedchicken]

Same can be said about your existence.

[@novastar666]

Would this work with a ender 3?

[@CreatewithTech]

Absolutely! I don't see any reason why it won't. If you've got a BL Touch or CR Touch on your printer and you're experiencing this problem the gcode that I posted should take care of the problem. If you do try it, just keep a close eye on the printer the first time to make sure everything is working as it should. RG