#5 Hornby Class 31 - Fan Removal & Installing a TTS Sound Decoder

Hornby Class 31 (Super Detail) diesel locomotive.
A short how-to video looking at ways to improve running and motor performance through the removal of the problematic fan assembly, as well as the installation of a Hornby TTS Sound (Class 31) decoder and speaker to provide for cost-effective DCC sound functionality.
Items required for the modification work and installation are:
- Hornby TTS Sound decoder
- Replacement 8 ohm speaker (optional)
- BlackTak
- Kapton tape
- Heat shrink (optional)
- Plasticard/sheet styrene
- Superglue (medium) & activator
- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)
- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife, needle files and a dremel (with metal cutting disc).
You can buy a TTS Class 31 decoder here: amzn.to/2EZLkto
Thank you very much for watching.
Please comment, like, share and subscribe!

[@1BCamden]

Another great episode, the CV150 is a trap for young players that you covered off on like topping on a cake 😎

[@paulkandi]

Love the TTS...got a 31 but it has Loksound V4 and nowhere as good as the cheaper Hornby decoder, I may change it later, as soon as one becomes available as rare now... Thanks for the great video..

[@DugmerJunction]

Nice how to, Where the fan was, we normally use/recycle the dcc decoder box, cut into shape and use the cardboard cut out as a floor board, We then stick it down with electrical tape. to hold the speaker in place we use double sided white sticker pads and pop the speaker on top :) It does the job nicely.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

That sounds like a neat approach too! Many thanks for the comment 🙂

[@johnlongbottom2539]

Hi - I have installed TTS in several classes including steam - but I use Iphone speakers - they are really powerful and hardly require any space. With steam this can often mean you can get the speaker in the boiler housing rather than wiring to the tender - or vice-versa depending on if the motor is in the tender - great video on 8-21 pin conversion where space is tight - I had already bought some converters (DCC concept which means wiring should be easy) and in one I have fitted to a Heljan there was enough space but latest projects to class 37 and 47 I am aware there will be no space

[@StrathpefferJunction]

That sounds great! Heljan can have a higher current draw and can be at (or over) the limit of what a tts decoder can handle, but it can be a case-by-case issue. If the models you have work fine with them, that's grand. And yes, iPhone speakers are a great option too.

[@brucerobson8767]

Thanks for tip on CV150, solved the problem I had with a Cl40 TTS decoder.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Great! Really pleased to here it. 🙂👍🏻

[@Eccles_Hall]

Very informative and useful as I have these squeals on my 31s, and also planning to fit TTS. Just prior to watching this video, I watched a video on using a baby boomer speaker (much smaller than the std spkr) to enhance TTS, so may give those a try. Thanks for posting 👍🚂

[@railandmodel]

That particular 31 release keeps eluding me, hopefully will drop on one. Good video mate :-) Taking of 31's....watch this space...

[@StrathpefferJunction]

+ay76 Many thanks! I many focus on locos and stock that ran in Scotland, but I have a rake of regional railways coaches and, for a while, was after something to haul them. This one popped up on ebay a while back for a reasonable price given it wasn't running well. Given I like tinkering with electronics and motors etc., I figured I might be able to sort it and it was worth a pint. It actually turned out to be an easier job than I was expecting. It now runs really nicely and the sound is really decent for TTS. I think TTS is maybe a little lacking in steam, but with a reasonable speaker, it can work well on diesel...although I think the horns tend to be a bit tinny and poor on these chips.

[@paulkandi]

You may be able to make a frame and attach to the speaker housing and re-mount the fan...

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Hi, as always you have some excellent knowledge I am sure will help people...Simon

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Simon -Liverton Central Many thank for your kind words, Simon. I have also learned a lot from watching your videos! I like to watch detailed, step-by-step videos, so that's what I try to produce. Some prefer edited highlights, which is fine too, and plenty of folk produce them as well. :-)

[@strathpefferspamodelrailwa8751]

Good video and some interesting comments. I to tried to fit the TTS sound decoder into my Hornby 31. My 31 was running smooth with a gaugmaster omni decoder. I removed the fan unit and installed decoder. The sound was good but the running quality was horendous. I called Hornby support and sent the model in...this was end of Sept 17 and I still don't have it back after calling them up regularly for a progress update. They reckon the poor running could be contributed to by the lighting unit, which they tell me they're waiting on a replacement to become available. Fingers crossed I might have the loco returned to me this year in working order....

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Strathpeffer Spa Model Railway Jings. That's a long time to wait. Did you try tweaking the CV values? The running with this TTS decoder and 31 was awful until I switched to the second motor profile. I had actually filmed the issues, but the battery died right at the end. I thought it had saved the footage, but it hadn't, hence the 'extra' bit of footage at the end of the video. I think there are also issues on some Class 31s with the worm gear and plastic prop shaft, which can need lubricating and/or reseating. Anyhow, I hope you get the loco back soon. I've always found Bachmann pretty quick, but Hornby, in my experience, have been a wee bit sluggish.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Strathpeffer Spa Model Railway Incidentally, did you find any solutions to your 'power over points' problems?

[@strathpefferspamodelrailwa8751]

Strathpeffer Junction Afternoon. No I never as Hornby told me just to get it in the post to them to sort. I totally agree Bachmann have been very good, I've sent models for repair to them on a Monday then had it returned by the sat. In Hornby's defence I sent them my Q1 for repair and they had it back within the week and free of charge or postal fee. With regard to my layout I've taken an extreme measure... I've stripped it all down and started practically from scratch from two new scenic section base boards. When I get time I shall try get a video up of what I've been doing. Regards Alasdair

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Strathpeffer Spa Model Railway I look forward to it. I can see the old station from my house, so it'll be lovely to see it modelled. :-)

[@phil36310]

Bonjour Strathpeffer Junction,I hope you are well despite your spine problems I am sad to learn about. I have been watching several of your nice produced video's and like the way you show, demonstrate and explain things. Your experiences are most helpful so thank you for your energy, time and efforts ! But I have a question: In one of the vid's you mentioned the use of the Z21 command station. You also have experience with TTS decoders. So could you - if possible - share & show & comment your experiences on the use of this Z21, also in conjunction with resetting CV values, setting up a speed curve and some function mapping on TTS decoders. The Z21 seems to be an "up to date DCC system" with many functional features. Thanks in advance for your kind reply. Greetings from France. Filip

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Salut Filip. Merci pour votre commentaries. Longue vie à la Vieille Alliance! 🇫🇷 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 I absolutely plan to do a series of videos on CVs and programming, but I'll not be able to do that until the new year. However, Hornby TTS decoders are budget sound decoders and do not support CV5/6 or speed curve CVs, so you cannot customise the decoders speed settings as you can in many other decoders - this is one of their weaknesses. You can tweak the motor profile a little using CV150 etc., but it's far more restricted and doesn't really have anything like the effect that the speed CVs have. If you're in need of a sound decoder that does have control over speed CVs, you'll need to go for Loksound or Zimo products. 🙂

[@phil36310]

Rebonjour, Thanks for your prompt reply ! I subscribed to your channel and will eagerly wait for your video's on the subject. I agree on the restricted mode of the TTS. But I'm pleased with them. Motor control & smooth running is as good as my Zimo equipped locos - and simple for there are only a few CV's to adjust. The sound I like is just basic background chuffing, the whistle and breaking. I prefer simple things and the TTS is good enough. And while running two or more sound equipped locos the noise becomes unpleasant in the layout room. Anyway I look forward to learn more from you. Merci beaucoup and Happy railroading ! ( Votre Français est excellent - félicitations !)

[@StrathpefferJunction]

@@phil36310 Mon père parle couramment le français. J'ai appris un peu de français...pas assez cependant!

[@phil36310]

Et bien ... Voilà ça explique l'alliance. Je comprends mieux. Alors un prochain video pour la communauté francophone ? Question d'excercise . Merci et bon courage !

[@michaelcunneen2665]

Be careful where you put the decoder. Mine was sort of in between the circuit board and the roof. It must have been a bit close to the roof and it started to melt the plastic and then it burnt out. From the outside you can now se a bit of a bubble where the plastic melted underneath, which is a bit of an eyesore now I know its there. They get really hot and i was wondering if that tape will let enough air in around the decoder to keep it cool.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

I always make sure the I leave the end opens, so heat can escape, and these days I tend to use a lesser amount of tape too, having experienced a hot decoder issue, although no melt. You are absolutely right that decoders can get warm, and if you run a model constantly for quite some time they can run quite hot, so keeping them away from plastic body parts is very sensible (although not always easy in some models).

[@TheWGLOVER]

Very interesting and informative. Did the cab lights work?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

+William Glover Many thanks, William. Much appreciated. Yes, I've since installed some miniature warm white LEDs (one in each cab) and hooked them up via a 5k resistor to the Aux channel (green wire). The way I did it was solder the LEDs in parallel, add a resistor to the negative wire, then solder it to the aux pin on the socket (underside of the PCB). The positive wire then got soldered onto the back of the common (blue wire) pin on the socket. Put a layer of Kapton tape over the pins to stop any shorting and Bob's your uncle!

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Great video , could you spell the name of that tape you use to protect the electrics from shorting out . My hearing isn't that good . Cheers......Peter

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Peter Shaw Sure. It's called Kapton tape. You can get it from most electronics shops, ebay etc. I find it easier to work with than electrician's insulation tape, and it also doesn't seem to come loose over time in the way same. I rarely use the electrician's tape at all on modelling now. Here's a bit of blurb about it: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Many thanks for your reply , I thought it was captains tape so wasn't far off . .......Peter

[@StrathpefferJunction]

+Peter Shaw Close! :-)