BEST corrosion protection for your motorcycle? NEW KID ON THE BLOCK!

[@alphatango5668]

A really important reminder this video! Up until the early 1980s it was a common sight to see cars with body work that had rusted through from the inside, even cars that were only few years old. rust would start on the inside of the panels and eat through to the outside! You never see this now. WHY? because during the 80s car manufacturers adopted the use of waxoils/cavity, wax to protect the inside of the panels and the underside of the cars. As a result some can now offer 15 year anti corrosion warranties!

[@stuartfillingham]

Ah yeah good point! wheel arches hastily rebuilt with glass fibre to get through an MOT was a common sight back in those days!

[@Tubespoet]

I used to work in a Vauxhall dealers in the 1970s in new car preparation part of which was cleaning the rust off the chrome and sometimes the paintwork!

[@cyborgbadger1015]

i remember cars with the sills painted black with hammerite or whatever was a thing too lol.

[@B0M0A0K]

In my early days as a car apprentice we would add an option to new cars which was to spray the entire underside with a tar like product that blocked corrosion. It was murder to work with and even worse if you had to get it off. That usually required a hot paraffin steam cleaner.

[@rwalton159]

@@cyborgbadger1015 Regularly used undersill on my mini

[@davidmacgregor5193]

Morning Stuart, In the early 1980's I used to ride my Triumph T160V throughout the year, in winter, we didn't have those fancy PTFE anti-corrosion sprays in those days so I coated most of the bike using general purpose grease. The bike didn't look that good as dust and grime from the road would stick to the grease, but water and salt couldn't penetrate the grease to do it's dastardly work of corroding by beloved motorcycle. In spring I simply washed the grease off using Jizer and hey presto I had a beautiful clean and corrosion free motorcycle.

[@MrPRosseti]

I recommend including XCP Rust Blocker Clear Coat. Really excellent, I haven't had anything better in my hand.

[@JENOLITE-UK]

Very pleased to be featured on the channel and even more pleased that you liked the product. Hopeful but confident that it stands the test of time and if you need to know anymore information, or want to try any other products, by all means let us know. All the best, Jenolite

[@robertpeachey8348]

does the product contain silicone ?

[@stevec-b6214]

i remember as a kid with a new bike, smearing vaseline on the rims to try and keep them looking shiny after winter. a tip from my trials competition days was to smear the inside of the airbox with grease, its amazing how much dust and crud it stopped from reaching the filter.

[@keithstovin1482]

Another great video Stuart 👍👍, Another all year round biker here who has used ACF 50 with poor results, thanks for the heads up on the jenolite stuff, l will definitely be using it this coming autumn. Keep up the great work mate, well appreciated here.

[@markbeard500]

Agree with you concerning ACF-50 Stuart.Having tried many products myself I came across one that stood out. XCP Clear coat rust blocker, works great for my uses. Worth a try? I Must try the Jenolite too.

[@mikeellicott6977]

yes please, an over winter comparison would be great, a handful of identical bits of metal, or small baccy tins sort of thing, and a weekly photo, awesome !

[@michaelglynn2638]

Bracketry, nadgery bits, and indeed mudguard underside, all somewhat of an obsession with me. I too use wax oil, injecting it inside swing arms etc. Nice job👍

[@alancampbell1008]

I've been using the same thing I use on my tractor and machinery, granted through the winter it doesn't get much use but it's stood up to what North Scottish weather throws at it. Think I might give this a try though, especially on the old pair and my Interceptor

[@dougmcg5414]

I use Scottoiler FS 365 Corrosion Protector, they do chain products

[@martinheath5565]

Also, if its chilly, leave the can in a bowl of hot water for about 10 minutes or so to warm it through and helps spraying on the bike and getting the product flowing better.

[@HoratioBlogs]

A good tip, thanks. Also... @10:55 ---> @11:05 some nice lingering shots of your Orient Star Outdoor 😎Blue? dial and brown leather strap looks very smart!

[@geraldfitzgibbon7428]

Yes a test of dif products over winter would b great. And a return visit to ur jenolite treated bike in mid november would b great

[@paulhoughtonhhoughton9188]

Just to throw me cap into the ring, on my 1957 BSA B31 I use a combination of cheap clean oil and paraffin, in an old spray bottle, under the frame, mudguards and anywhere else may need, then wipe it over the bike with an old clean rag so left with a film of protection, making sure am keeping it away from any rubber parts, seat and any where am going touch, all though It has its original paint work so must be doing something to protect it(with patina) so am not going spend lolly on its upkeep, that's for the other younger bikes (45+yrs) Thanks Stuart.

[@colt2206]

Must be high humidity there. Here in Texas we just don’t see much rusting or corrosion on bikes or cars. Keep it in a garage and it doesn’t deteriorate at all. However if left in sun all the time it will bake it. My Harleys are in a garage and they still look like new after 15 years.

[@chrisbryan3624]

Very enlightening video thanks Stu - Would be very interesting to see the results of an 'over winter' product test if you decide to go ahead with one...

[@David-uu3wq]

I had the same issue. I had a new BMW 650 scooter, which I treated with ACF50 in the late autumn. When I washed it off a couple of weeks later, all the metal coatings were corroded. I don't use it now and use a purpose made motorcycle corrosion inhibitor. .

[@barney3417]

Morning Stuart, Good vid, I also didn't get on with ACF 50 . I now use Scotoiler 365 which you have to re apply after every wash but it's a lot cheaper and does work in my opinion!! However I will get some of this product and give it a go ! you should wear gloves, keep your hand soft and gentle like mine :) :):)

[@direktorpresident]

I always used to smile at that ad jingle, "Now, hands that do dishes, can feel soft as your....face" :-)

[@philipjames250]

Many thanks for bringing this product to my attention. I too found it exceptionally easy to apply, so much better than ACF50. Appreciate the video 👍

[@Brian-tb1zs]

“Once you know, you know “ Great comment ! Also, Thanks for staying on Triumph to get answers, I love my T-100 but it’s not perfect, the more we (You) can help Triumph solve issues and communicate to the many who love our Triumphs the better it will get ! We want Triumph to be successful, Thanks 👍 5 stars to you ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@MrTrek164]

I use lanoguard moto spray grease for anti corrosion on my bikes and everything nowadays .The grease does not fling off the chain and the spray coats easily and does not get blasted off even with pressure washer .It's lasts ages and is a natural products .

[@p.istaker8862]

good for head-race bearings also.

[@bluesplayer59]

I think condensation is more of a threat than road salt . I thought my zzr 1100 had sprung a leak noticing a puddle of water underneath it . I never figured metal could do such a thing in what I thought was a fairly cosy out building . So I panelled it out with boards and layed old carpets . Then sprayed on gt 40 and 3 in 1 . come spring I removed it and everything was perfect . Cheap spray cans work a treat .just use it regular . Splendid stuff Stuart .

[@stuartfillingham]

without a doubt! garaging your bike over winter isn't always the safe option you expect it to be.

[@malcolmemsley5909]

With respect I have to disagree about road salt. It will eat your bike quicker than condensation. I have had my T120 over 2 years now and it is stored outside with an Oxford cover over it. Before winter sets in I clean the bike and I do use ACF50 along with GT85 here and there. I coat all the chromework with ACF50 . I am retired and so I dont need to use the bike for commuting ...others may have to . If the roads have been gritted I do not take the bike out or anywhere near it...salt is death for Aluminium and I know this being an Aircraft fitter. I was severly reprimanded by an inspector for forgeting to put my overshoes on once before entering the wing of an A380 in Germany, as it was winter and we had been walking outside where salt was present. I always wait untill we have had a couple of good rainstorms after the roads have been salted before riding. As for condensation...I read that a trick is to put cat litter into a cloth bag or old socks , and place this on the bike under the cover, it acts as a dessicant. All I can say is I have no rust yet on the T120 and although the engine casing has dulled off a bit, the chrome is fine. This Waxoil seems really good though and I will try it. Thanks for another great video Stuart. 😁

[@geoffluck]

Looks like a good product Stuart, I shall try this on my bikes, thanks for the heads up!

[@Blort440]

I usually paint the underside of metal fenders with rust oleum black paint. Then meguiars wax and go weekly. But what your using looks very effective. I’ll have to try it. Ty

[@Jonathanpaulm]

Thanks, Stuart, yet again another informative and excellently produced video. I’ll certainly be investing in a can of this! Take care, and ride safe!

[@B0M0A0K]

What a great video Stuart. Again, you're taking common sense, but it's really useful to hear that your background in this lends alot of credence to your views and comments. Well done. I couldn't agree more re the comment about "Just because its stated as being for a motorbike leads to an instant price hike". This is a pet hate of mine and is almost always entirely without merit. As with you, a couple of years ago I bought a new BMW GS. I bought it in December, rode it home in torrential rain, dried it off and then put it in my garage for the winter. I visited this bike often to make modifications and to add accessories. While it was in the garage I noticed that the chain had started to develop a thin sheen of rust. So I performed chain cleaning maintenance (I have always used paraffin for chain cleaning) and then applied a generous coating of a highly recommended chain maintenance spray called "S100-SDoc 2.0". About 4 weeks later the sheen of rust was back and seemed to have eaten the chain lube for breakfast, it was complete garbage! I went back to using my tried and tested chain wax. Sometimes you just have to admit that the older solutions remain the best option. I had not heard of using a waxoil treatment for rust prevention and protection, but I will definitely go look at that now. How is it on painted surfaces (such as fork casings, the swing arm or painted frame)? Definitely want to see a follow up on the JENOLITE Wax Oil product. 👍

[@martinheath5565]

Thanks Stuart, Jenolite bought and bike started this weekend with a good treatment. Amazon doing a deal on 3 tins .

[@johndavid1861]

Excellent video, but if this product remains slightly tacky as you mentioned, will it not be difficult to remove dirt and road mess from the inside of the mud Guards you protected ?? Please let me know...thanks,

[@thomasskinner240]

Thankyou for these videos Mr fillingham. I've just bought my first bike and I've gone for a new classic 500 and I have no idea of how to protect it from rust so these videos are so useful to me. Thanks again and keep up the good work. 👍

[@dadmadforgot4050]

Uncle Stuart to the rescue again 👍👏

[@Oilyhands749]

Wurth silicon grease ( not the silicone spray) , it actually etches in to the surface , spray in can lid then brush on nuts bolts brackets , you could spray it direct on your underside of you mudguards, it then polishes off no sticky residue at all . A truly remarkable product that I stumbled across 25 years ago , I can’t work out why they don’t market it as rust prevention. Don’t get it anywhere near disc surface though ! Panel wipe won’t remove it , it’s hellish stuff

[@dalewintle9969]

Looks a decent product , never rated ACF50 Either , I've been using XCP Rust Blocker for a while now the new clear coat is excellent found the durability is around 4-6 months depending on weather conditions and washes but will be looking forward to your thoughts on the Jenolite , great video as always 👍🏻

[@teecee3918]

Another vote for XCP Rust Blocker 👍

[@CHUY-DRZ400s]

Opening sounds like 38 Special. Hold on loosely. Song. 👍🏻👍🏻.

[@mrglide7078]

Just looked up Jenolite as I've never heard of it. The factory is literally 5 mins from where I live! I'll pop down to their counter tomorrow if they have one and pick up a can or two.

[@tombailey6342]

I use ACF 50 in a mix. Approx 60% ACF to 40% GT85. Mix well and leave in an open container. After a day to two you will get a thickish gel that you can paint upon all your shiny fasteners. Lasts better than ACF and will wash off with a bit of a scrub / much off.

[@robertdodge8587]

As I am awaiting delivery of a new Enfield 350 ,this was a helpful and timely video, thank you , am ordering some ready to treat the bike.

[@stuartv-e8161]

Thank you for the information on the Wax Oil. I have bought a can for my Royal Enfield Bullet.. Great video as usual full of good information. Thanks Stuart.😊

[@guyfuller1369]

Great product to know about! The visual demonstration reinforced the information, and, being of a certain age, I need every stimulus I can get. Thanks for another brilliant product review.

[@iivaridark6850]

I once bought a 5 year old Yamaha xjr - and I remember vividly the feeling when I happened to look inside the rear frame tubes... Rust! Well, I managed to deal it anyhow. But it was a shock!

[@mikecartlidge5355]

Great video Stuart, for those of us who ride through winter your bike is really up against it, inside of steel mudguards, swinging arms ect on a wet salty road is like putting them in an aqua vac cabinet As you said about ACF50 it's not the product but the regular wash off that gets rid of the salt on your bike. This wax oil product looks good, better than the pot of grease and paint brush. I suffered from a damp garage up until replacing the roof with 30mm insulated steel cladding, now the place is as dry as a bone.

[@sumitnelson3532]

I apply rubber paint inside metal mud guards. It's very cheap and lasts for years. Better if applied with a brush.

[@allanh2360]

Recently bought this and applied it to the metal surfaces of my bike on Sunday and its now Wednesday evening and I wouldn't say its any drier than it was after 2 hours and that's with a thin film

[@christophernewsome7194]

Thanks for the info keep up the good work. Where I am at they dont have much about any Royal Enfield so your videos are all ways a help in arkansas in usa thanks once more

[@donwright3427]

Oily rag for my old Honda kept it pretty good over the last 30years. I don't ride in winter which helps as salt is our worst enemy.

[@GixxerZilla]

High time for a video about waxoyl? Sounds good to me. Cheers

[@Haresarefast]

I sprayed my Royal Enfield Interceptor with the Jenolite Waxoil spray about 3 months ago. During the last 3 months the bike has been exposed to rain and condensation to the point where the bike is thoroughly soaked for nearly 24 hours and this has happened a dozen times at least and I haven't seen any rust whatsoever on treated areas. The only trade off is it does pick up an awful lot of dust, that even after washing, the dust just stays stuck in the waxoil so it's never truly clean. But I'd rather have a dusty looking bike than a rusty one 😬 So much better than ACF, which just seemed to run off with the slightest bit of water.

[@drstrangelove4998]

Great vid Stu, especially on the ACF50, and the Waxoil spray which I’d never heard of before.

[@pdm2201]

Starting at around 15:15 a sticker with a bar code can be seen under the left side cylinder. !?

[@robertpeachey8348]

thanks for taking the time to do the video ,do you know if this product contains silicon ?

[@JLOSTAFF1]

I find ACF50 great for areas such as under the tank and seat - and stays there for years. This product looks far better for exposed areas where ACF50 is severely compromised in my opinion. I'll give it a go..................👍

[@derekwarner6898]

I even don't know why I have avidly watched the last two video's as the bikes and products are not even available in the country where I live, it must be the calming tones of Stuarts east Yorkshire commentary that does it!!!

[@gordonrocker]

Hi Stuart, love your videos and it compels me to buy those accessories for my Classic 500 as well. I've recently bought a used one, 2015 model and looking to revive it's glory days. I'm sure a good cleanup should do the trick, but I wonder how to clean the engine. I've seen the videos for the shiny bits of the engine, use metal polish you say. But I'm more concerned about how do I clean and shine the non shiny parts of the engine, like the fins, and the lower half of the engine to which the shiny casings fit. Didn't find anything helpful over the internet, and hoping you can show us this magic too.

[@anthonyprice5596]

I've used 2 sprays S100 supplied by Harley dealers which looks like the same stuff, however I think it might be a bit thicker? The other spray I have used, which I do have to say was like covering your bike in solid wax was Wurth wax protection spray, however it was difficult to remove!! But I swear by the Wurth product as it protected my milling machine perfectly for two years while it stood outside under a Tarp. But it wasn't easy to remove.

[@TheChrysler56]

Looks a good product Stuart. It’s maybe worthy of putting it on your top 5/6 best products list. 😊

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

The older Pan European ST1100 was prone to the pressed steel swing arm get rusted through from the inside out, and by the time it was noticed it was usually too far gone to fix. Getting a replacement from places like California where the climate is much different to ours was the usual answer .On receipt, the best option was to drill a few strategically placed small holes and spray the internals with waxoil before resealing the holes and spraying the arm with a hard wearing paint. Just a BTW should that axle on the rear wheel not have a washer behind the nut?

[@stuartfillingham]

BTW should that axle on the rear wheel not have a washer behind the nut? Apparantly not!

[@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse]

@@stuartfillingham It just seems at the moment the actual removal and replacement of the nut seems to be wearing the paint away (see the marks at 01:32 & 01:57) which would encourage rust

[@stuartfillingham]

@@Arachnoid_of_the_underverse yeah they were there when I got the bike a year ago obviously from the point of manufacture. but I treat my bike with my preferred products so as you see no issues so far.

[@garybrown4854]

I have a pan 1100 and had to replace the swing arm , the new one I filled with waxoil using a syringe through those drainage holes till it flowed out of those gaps in the fabrications , also put a mudflap on the inside of the rear mudguard to protect the pivot box section from the worst of the crap .

[@martinblizard1882]

Very interesting Stuart if I had metal mudguards I would still use Waxoil and use the new product on area's that were on show. I have very little problem with rust as the under parts of the bike are waxoiled and if the bike is wet I put on a dehumidifier so the bike is dry the next morning and the dehumidifier keeps the whole garage dry.

[@agee8322]

Lanoguard! Lanolin ....... very impressed with it.

[@martinwest3119]

Morning Stuart,was disappointed with corrosion protection offered with acf50 on the swinging arm area on my motorcycle, so going to give the jelonite wax oil spray a try,Just ordered one off Amazon.

[@davidbates5310]

Good work Stuart, would love to see that comparison test 👍

[@andrerobertdrouin3642]

I use rubber spray where brackets hold fenders , it fills the voids . it is an automotive product , it needs to be replaced every five years , it should be done when you get your bike new especially in Canada where salt is more available on the roads than in your kitchen .

[@timothyhohn3971]

As a skeptical (and thrifty) ACF 50 user, I greatly appreciate you bringing this product to light and demonstrating its application. I do want to clarify one point: I have used ACF 50 on the engine but, if I heard you correctly, you're not recommending the Jenolite product for use on the engine or associated hot parts of the bike. Is that correct? Many thanks!

[@stuartfillingham]

yes its likely to melt and evaporate much like ACF50. feel free to be skeptical its your bike and your money.

[@jamesstephen7640]

Great vidio Stu I use ACF50 find that works well but I think you have converted me Will be getting some of that for my bike which is also a Bullit 500 standard efi love it

[@andyshaw4780]

Comparison test? Do it Uncle Stu Please! It might show those “experts” in the bike mags what they are missing!

[@wolfhalupka8992]

Hi Stu- looks like a capable product, never heard of that before. In my MGB days, long ago, I used "real" waxoil which certainly proved messy, but effective. later I discovered some stuff called "fluid film" sold by a company hodt.de. that's derived from a substance used to protect ballast tanks in ships- and being ex-navy, that appeals to me ! well, that fluid film stays tacky for years when used on the inside of car cavities. when I got my Amarok truck I had that one sprayed wherever one could reach, complementing the factory protection. thanks again for that info, might come in handy!

[@scottminshall6420]

I work in the aviation field, we tried out ACF50 and were not impressed, We always used LPS 3 for corrosion protection, it would leave a nice waxy film. And it was half the cost of ACF 50. I use LPS 3 on the bottom of my vehicles.

[@stuartfillingham]

Ha That's possibly why they are pushing it at motorcyclists!

[@mootpointjones8488]

I still use a mixture of parrafin and clean 20/50 applied with rag. It has always worked well but that Jenolite seems a better approach 👍

[@henryhartley9993]

Nice one Stuart, I'll give this a try, a product comparison is a great idea.....

[@chuckhanna249]

An over winter test of products would be excellent.

[@Foxtrot_Woof]

Another product line that looks promising that however, (like Silkolene or GT85) we can't get in the U.S. I've read that WD40 Specialist Dry PTFE lube is similar. I'm reluctant to try another WD product. TriFLow and CRC both make something similar as well, I don't know. As for a Jenolite Wax Oil alternative, closest I can find here is Fluid Film. It's lanolin based product designed for the same purpose, under carriage protection on cars and trucks. Doesn't look like it goes on quite as transparent or last a year.It has a slight amber color and lasts about a season from what I'm reading.

[@mdiz4564]

An interesting review. I’ve always used Duck oil,WD40 and 3M products. I’ve used ACF50 and totally agree it’s over rated and I don’t like the stuff. Another great review!😁

[@kelvinharrison6702]

Good vid stuart.i have heard of product like you say long time ago for under cars.but see logic realy.son uses acf50 maybe we will give it a go as he uses bike all yr round for wrk.👍🏍

[@ry491]

Very interesting Stuart. I too fell for the acf50 advertising. Came to the same conclusions as you. After a couple of wet rides , it was all but gone . For the price it should do a whole lot better. Condensation in garages over the Winter seems to be a bikes worst enemy . I will try the waxoil spray on my Rebel and hopefully have better results . Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience ..

[@garylightning8740]

Consistently excellent , amazingly honest . Thank you very much. Regards Gareth Wiltshire UK. Gratitude. Quality. Respect.

[@nsw9154]

when i bought my New Triumph Sprint ST in 2009 i bought loads of ACF50 in a bulk purchase because it worked out cheaper, i bough 4 spray cans and a Liter bottle to use in a spray container and not knowing or being told that it would only last for a year before it went off thought that i was saving myself a fortune and also protecting my new bike, and i am still using it but only to oil squeaky door hinges and none important house hold jobs Lesson learned

[@KRAM-zb2vc]

Brilliant video as always Stuart and that’s another product I shall be buying 😃👍🏻

[@senthilkumar-mc2ui]

Nice content for corrosion haters. I think we don't have any jenolite distributors or importers here in India, unlucky. But wurth & s100 corrosion protection does give decent protection as Mr.fullfillingham pointed out self healing properties. Looking forward to your comparison between the products video.

[@willisbcteoh9840]

Stuart, another feather 🪶 on your cap. Thank you for your pertinent information. I will look out for this anti rust spray. Cheers

[@thibor1975]

Great informative video stu.. would love to see a video of comparables.. Acf50 etc? Rich

[@sunnychopade6345]

The Road with your new GT looks fab ... I can make out the speed variations with The Bullet , Interceptor & now the GT

[@g0ral]

best corosion protection in RE interceptor & GT? plastic fenders.

[@andybell7665]

Any updates on corrosion products, Stuart?

[@Skip11AM]

Lots of useful information. Can you recommend a conventional wax oil product you mentioned a few times? I'm looking for something for engine bay of a jet ski where tackiness is not a problem but longevity is important as I am going to rinse it with water from time to time.

[@oojimmyflip]

That chain looks a little dry, however Jenolite is the best rust killer on the market and Ive been using it for years, apparently it is used on our nuclear submarines before repainting them.

[@birbeck87]

Enjoyed that stu learnt something there will be looking out for some of that wax oil it seems a great product take care 👍

[@MBIKES21]

Great videos Stuart, I enjoy them all. Quality.

[@TheRmoroni]

Stuart,Have you test ridden the new re comet?Any plans to? i watch all your videos and appreciate the valued information.Thank You

[@MrTpain1945]

Hi Stuart what do you recommend for inside a petrol tank to stop rust

[@Justmarcusdave]

great video,whats the difference between this and the Jenolite rust shield?

[@luishcoreia]

Hi. I got this product t after watching ir video. The product sprays well. The application part is excellent. Regarding rust prevention I need to wait to check the results (or lack of). It does leave the surfaces a bit sticky. I also sprayed onto my motorcycle chrome headers, that now are covered with a layer of product with a mat finish. My question: after applying this product how do you wash the bike? Need ti reapply the product after every wash? Cheers and thanks for the videos

[@stuartfillingham]

use the method i have published in the past. so far I've had no need to reapply.

[@jitsubob]

Stu... This is working well on my Interceptor. Thanks a million. Planning ahead.... How do I properly and safely remove the Waxoil at the end of the winter months to restore the bike to a summer finish?

[@stuartfillingham]

panel wipe or silkolene pro prep

[@jitsubob]

@@stuartfillingham thanks again Stu. Keep up the good work.

[@grahamclutterbuck583]

Thanks for that Stu. I will give this spray a go.

[@daveinwla6360]

Sorry. I couldn't picture in my mind the arrangement of the wheel axle threaded parts. Could you show the disassembly of the parts, or maybe a diagram?

[@HepcatHarley]

I've used the liquid Jenolite rust treatment for many years on classic cars etc and found none better. I've always been a bit dubious about ACF-50 but believing it to be one the best of a bad bunch carried on with it in the hope it was at least protecting beyond using nothing at all. As soon as you use a detergent wash that ACF-50 is gone. The XCP One is better but is far more gloopy than ACF-50. Anyway I'll give this Jenolite product a go, if it's half as good as their rust treatment it'll be great. I notice on the can it states Tried and Trusted, I hope it doesn't become another Tried and Rusted :)

[@stuartfillingham]

LOL

[@pikebobstar2033]

Hmmmm🤔 my only issue is you're going to continue to wash the bike which should include under mudgaurds so in theory, dirt, salt and any other nasties should be removed . Then a spray of good quality protectant and you're good to go till next wash. Always worked for me with my 40 year old Honda work bike still corrosion free in these areas. Interesting as always mate 👍

[@stuartfillingham]

well the idea is the wax stops salt and dirt sticking so you can just rinse it off with no need to retreat for several months.

[@clearprop]

Hi Stuart. Just thinking that a comparison test of different products 'left outside in the elements' may not be particularly revealing, as the environment during the test will be very different to real world motorcycling (with washoff etc). This product looks good though - thanks for bringing it to our attention. :-)

[@stuartfillingham]

most industries test by the exposure method for these sort of coatings Dan. testing indoors at room temperature instantly adds a major flaw to testing these sort of products as it affects viscosity of products designed to be effective in very low temperatures. e.g. a product may run off the sample allowing rust to form in a way it would not in real use. Exposure to the elements represents as close as you can get to real world.

[@clearprop]

@@stuartfillingham I suppose the only trouble is that ACF50 would probably work almost as well as waxoil type products in a static test; it's when you start hurling road spray at the two products that the differences will show. However, with that accepted, it could still be an interesting comparison and well worth watching. 👍

[@stuartfillingham]

@@clearprop Hi Dan, its simply not possible to carry out a rolling test as you would need one identical bike for each product and they would have to be ridden at the same time to ensure fairness in the test. This would likely run in to tens off thousands of pounds to carry out. 3 months exposed to wind, rain hail and snow in A typical English winter will I think give an accurate indicator of what is what.

[@p.istaker8862]

@@stuartfillingham An idea would be to buy a cheap hack. Treat the left and right sides with the opposing products. Ride it through the winter and don't wash it until the spring.

[@Fred-Wilbury]

Yes the old ACF chestnut as I said in one of your earlier vids it’s a total waste of money I was bitten in the bike butt . Regards fred ps just ordered 3 cans for my car and speed twin 👌😎

[@robertadams4415]

I would be interested to see what happens

[@mattflexxx1564]

Does this spray change the metal color or add any extra bumps/glare?

[@Tubespoet]

Ah, not like the good old days where a fine oil mist from our British bikes meant that corrosion wasn't an issue. Oil on the back tyre on the other hand.........

[@pdm2201]

In the early 70’s I was racing my Commando behind a Suzuki Titan and decided not to try to overtake him. When I got home there was oil all over the rear wheel. Took the oil tank off and had the “chain lubricator” outlet plugged. I wonder how many riders went down because of the thing.