Watch this before using polyurethane wood finish!

[@StumpyNubs]

▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Trend Stealth respirator (original): amzn.to/3vyuKfS Trend Stealth Lite mask: amzn.to/3C6cmNQ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Check out this playlist of our other finishing videos:* kzbin.info/aero/PL-gT7JMZFYje9AEX4bPTmWUZV9qyZRYi9 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@DestroManiak]

Lite mask link doesnt seem to work for me.

[@bobbray9666]

@@DestroManiak Same here.

[@ascalon132]

@@DestroManiak Same

[@ardnaxela1405]

Hi! thanks for the video! Do you have a link for a video on applying water based polyurethane?

[@sethhorton49]

Do you have a video done for water based? When to use water based versus oil based?

[@patrickpittman4981]

I'm going to put my 2 cents worth in here and a lot of you will probably not agree with me but please hear me out before pooh-poohing my statements. I've been finishing bare wood for more than 40 years - cabinets, furniture, floors, and a lot of custom high-dollar rifle, shotgun, and pistol stocks. The one thing I know to be true when staining and varnishing wood is the more you sand the more grain you will see, Now, let me clarify this statement - I start with 150 grit paper then move to 220 grit - just as most people do. But if you really want to have eye-popping grain and super smooth finishes then you need to take it further. After the 220 grit I move to 320, 400, then 600 grit. I always do the 220, 320, 400, and 600 grits by hand - NEVER with a machine. Waste of time? Not hardly, I've tested this process and there is definitely a huge difference in grain appearance and the smoothness of the final finish. It's the proverbial "night-and-day" type of thing. Once of my most cherished pieces is a dining room table made of birch and stained a dark ebony to get a Japanese "black lacquer" appearance. This table has such a deep and lustrous appearance that you'd think I spent days and days rubbing and polishing it. Actually, after sanding to 600 grit and staining, I put 3 coats of Minwax Gloss Polyurethane - sanding with 600 grit after the first coat then using 0000 steel wool after the second coat. The results were outstanding. Super high gloss but you can still see the wonderful grain showing though. So take it from me - sand, sand, sand if you want a truly unique finish.

[@veguitars]

Nice description thx :-) in many places I often hear that going beyond 320 can cause issues with wood accepting stain uniformly. Have you experienced this? Cheers

[@vikassm]

​@@veguitars Only 'natural' finishes are problematic with finely sanded wood. (Hard wax oil, Tung oil, etc) Synthetic finishes - Sprayable varnish, Acrylic, PU top coat have zero adhesion issues even with 2000 grit sanded panels. After all, these finishes are the most widely used kind of finishing for automotive paint! (2000 grit sanding is more or less a mandate here 😜)

[@braxt27]

@@veguitarsI would sand to 220 or 320 then stain and then go maybe 400 or 600 between stain coats and finish coats

[@braxt27]

I agree I have always gone to 600 even higher sometimes and it comes out really nice with a good finish

[@liquerinfrnt]

​@veguitars the trouble accepting stain comes from the wood grain becoming packed with fine sawdust from high grit sanding. By sanding with the grain by hand, the sawdust is cleared out of the channels allowing stain to penetrate evenly.

[@bertsrake]

Prime your brush with mineral spirits (or water for water based) and shake it out before that first dip into the poly. It will clean up easier and last much longer. Love the sports bottle trick.

[@yamahabiker1937]

Also helps eliminate bubbles.

[@jageo48]

Great point, JA! Another tip is to use a prick punch to make holes in the rim groove for the lid, so that most of the excess will drain back into the can. As the can's content gets used, lumps of dried and hardened finish will prevent proper sealing.

[@kenerickson4923]

That was I was going to say. I usually forget until I have already dipped the brush 🙃

[@bertsrake]

@@jageo48 If it's expensive paint or finish I'll actually pour it off into a fresh can if I'm trying to preserve it for future use. But yeah this is a great idea to save the fuss.

[@bertsrake]

@@Mainbusfail Thanks. I'm actually a hack woodworker but love this channel and hope to set up a real shop someday. But my dad sold ultra high-end paint and brushes (fine art stuff) back in the 50's and 60's and it was the one real life hack he taught me. Don't skimp on brushes and keep them clean and they will last decades. It's proven to be true.

[@2elkman]

Good work bud, absolutely love your insights. Very helpful for people who are past the beginning stages but have no real clue what we are doing. Cheers mate!

[@upsidedown1972]

I'm a paid professional. I've made hundreds of pieces of furniture. I pay to live by doing it. And it's amazing how much I still have to learn. Thank you for being such an amazing place to learn from. One day I'd love to be your "competition" here on the tube. But that is out of admiration.

[@Hyperion9997]

Life is about continuing to learn!

[@roberthall7732]

My late father in his day use to hand paint coaches and when I started to make wooden signs, he showed me how to polyurethane them. I used to get a mirror finished with about 8 coats, the first coat was thinned, the rest not. I used to to go across, diagonal and finally with the grain wiping my brush of with every wipe. Perfect.

[@robw2379]

Never heard the "brown paper bag" trick before. Good tip. I'll try that on my next varnish finish.

[@befmx31]

I learned that technique from Steve Ramsey from Working for Mere Mortals. It works great. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised at the finished product.

[@richardlug6139]

@@befmx31 I also would find his tutorial on how to apply ploy. I did not like the way Stumpy brushed it on, he worked it to much, you should not apply it like you paint and that is just what he was doing.

[@JimBloggins1]

Being a professional finisher and owning several thousand dollars in spray equipment with access to I dustrial finishes makes me feel incredibly fortunate when I see what hobbyist finishing entails.

[@OldinMariner]

Great video as always. I would like to add a suggestion, if you are going to use satin or simi gloss varnish you should use it only on the last one or two layers. By using gloss to build up layers you will get a deep rich look to the work and not a dull muddy look.

[@TaylerMade]

don't you jut love the fact you pay more for gloss when it has less in it than satin.

[@LarryB-inFL]

@@TaylerMade Yeah, agree....but perhaps that is because you are replacing cheap flattening agents with relatively more expensive urethane?

[@mwaynem]

I found another use for polyurethane and that is over flat latex paint. I made some cabinets for my and because I use working on vehicles as well as woodworking I wanted a cleanable surface. I tried satin polyurethane instead of satin latex paint. I've never liked semi gloss or satin latex paint for durability. It never seems to really dry and it stays somewhat soft. So I shot my finished cabinets with polyurethane. Its been a few years now and finish is holding up well. I can get oil a grease on it and it wipes right off.

[@robertnichols917]

Oil based poly?

[@richardlug6139]

@@robertnichols917 You want to use water base, the oil base will yellow light color finishes especially white.

[@bryancassidy3968]

Just bought a used dining set I am refinishing and am a little overwhelmed by the information out there. I love your channel. Very easy to follow and informative. Thank you.

[@adamulias2315]

The Stumpster dropping QUALITY KNOWLEDGE for us all to soak up, like the wood does with that thinned out Poly. 😀👍

[@ballyantonia]

Terrific presenter . Clear,articulate. Knowledgeable .

[@sharg0]

I'd add two dont's for the rag: Strong, contrasting colours (unless you like red dots on your pale birch) Very worn out cloths - they are more likely to release a ton of fibres/dust. Painting - one would think that by now I had run out of things to stumble over... But I always find something new.

[@jaayjones5937]

No matter what I say it's going to come out wrong probably. As much as these videos are helpful to a lot of people I miss when things were being built. I learned tricks from build videos that the builder didn't mention and might not have been aware that it wasn't something that a lot of woodworkers knew. I bought your plans for the clamp rack but never used it after seeing the last rack you made. I've copied that rack and like it so much more than anything that anybody has made. Thank you for all the videos and links to products.

[@StumpyNubs]

We have never been a "watch me build this" channel. This channel focuses on specific skills, techniques and shop related content. We build a lot of things in our videos, but we rarely present them as complete project tutorials. This video clip explains it in more detail: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4SckpyYr9J5adk

[@tomalealso]

I spent a lot of years painting professionally I don't think there is many products that I have not used. I appreciate the information you bring to the table. All of it is good solid information. I don't recall you taking about making adjustments to your polyurethane to deal with changes in humidity or heat. you can not always paint in perfect weather so you need to make adjustments to deal with the weather changes. I almost never use polyurethane straight out of the can. I typically thin it a little bit just to get it to level out on the surface a little better, it slows the drying little bit and allows me to dry brush it for a more consistent finish. This will help to keep from scrubbing the finish, better to thin it a bit to get a better finish, I have often started by applying the first coat thin, (wipe on) that way the product sinks deeper into the surface. I think that if you have the time, wipe on is going to give you a better overall finish, yes its a lot more coats but well worth the effort.

[@PaliVCiernom]

Please consider making a video on how to apply finish to furniture pieces. Especially the inner corners are a pain to finish and sand before next coat.

[@MMWoodworking]

One thing missing from *every* wipe/brush finishing video, on every channel, is them doing it on an actual project, and not just a flat board. I've been waiting years for someone to actually build some boxes, or whatever that has multiple sides, or curves, or just anything that resembles an actual project, and then finishes them with poly, shellac, etc... by hand. My issues have never been with a flat board, it's when I get to the corner of a box, and need to move to the other side without letting any build on that corner, or to get it around the curve of a two sided object. Basically, KZbin is crying out for a real world, actual project finishing video... especially on smaller, detailed things, nut just a giant table top and square legs. The only people who seem to show finishing on detailed, real projects, are those just demonstrating their cool, expensive sprayers. How do I poly my boxes without leaving any marks? How do I do a piece that wraps around and has two faces that are vertical? Another video idea is how the heck to appropriately apply glue on projects where you simply cannot get in the space to wipe it off with a wet towel, or get it with a scraper, because it is so tight you already had to pre-finish the inside. I love this channel, and this is a great video... I just always get bummed when another finishing video is just on a flat piece of wood. People, like myself, need real world examples. Not many people are just wiping their poly onto a flat piece of wood, laying down on a bench. We have a project finishes, even just a box, and that is where we are trying to apply the finish. Cheers.

[@theleftwich1]

Totally! Even figuring out how to set up a piece for drying correctly can sometimes be a challenge, and I'm sure there are go-to techniques to make this eaiser. (I'm thinking of avoiding dimples with finishing the opposite side, etc)

[@nightcatarts]

The general idea if you've got a problematic area is to apply more, thinner coats. Tilting the piece to ensure the working face is as level as possible can also help where possible. As for glue, I've had luck in tight spaces with bamboo skewers. Cut them & sand to a shape that will match the profile of the bit you want to scrape & then run it along there at an angle once the glue has begun to thicken up. It should be at the point where the glue will come up easily & will travel along the skewer a bit so it's easy to remove. If it bunches up then it's too wet, & if the skewer bounces off the surface then it's too dry.

[@Jack-es9xq]

Welcome to the world of a new home construction painter. A library full of cabinets with doors and drawers is a combination of nightmare, masking, and problem solving master class. You have two choices - brush everything or spray everything. I recommend getting good at using a compressed air HVLP process.

[@valvenator]

If working on a home made project I try to get as much finish on the individual pieces as possible before final assembly. Than do a final coat after it's put together if needed. When refinishing an old piece however I just do one or two sides per day depending on drying time. Yeah it takes much longer but it beats having drippy saggy poly on your finished project.

[@marksatterfield3100]

This is why a wipe on finish rules. Maybe takes more time but a LOT easier and forgiving. I like a 50% poly, 30% thinner, 20% boiled linseed oil. Flood it well initially. After 15 min wipe off excess, buff with 0000 steel wool between well dried coats, final buff out with wax and more 0000 steel wool. Mis dos centavos.

[@egbluesuede1220]

Love how you used just the tip with long, light strokes. Came out nice!

[@roni1384]

Amazing, easy to understand, well thought-out tutorial. Thank you! ❤

[@noi5emaker]

Woodworking is like life - it's not how you start, it's how you finish! . 😄

[@KevinCoop1]

Stumpy, I was buying some hardwood from a supplier in my area. While I was there, we started talking about wood turning and finishes. He grabbed a dusty bowl on the shelf and blew off the dust. He said, “If you like shiny finish, use high gloss wipe on poly. Wipe it on wet and keep it wet for a while adding more poly. Keep rubbing until it goes past the sticky stage and it will harden and smooth out”. So, I bought some and followed his advice. Those bowls came out very shiny and smooth. Also, when I took a woodworking class back in the 70’s, the instructor showed us some of his very high gloss projects. He said, if the wood with no finish doesn’t shine, your finish will not be as good as it could be. So, I sand my bowls to 2000 grit and the people that bought them(no matter what finish used) comment on how smooth they are. This is just my opinion though! Keep up the instructive videos! Respectfully, Kevin

[@StumpyNubs]

Finishing on a lathe is totally different from finishing a piece of furniture. Try "keeping it wet while adding more poly" and "keep rubbing until it goes past the sticky stage" with polyurethane on a stationary surface and let me know how it works :)

[@peep39]

My introduction to poly was stressful. I was making a 4x8' turtle habitat out of plywood, and I had some pretty big pieces. Now I know I was fighting myself by doing the finish in the same garage that I was doing the sanding. I had a bear of a time getting the finish to go down without bubbles, and I was using the same product you are, and brushing it too. I wonder if some of the bubbles were dust-caused. I wound up doing MANY applications and sanding in between, and learned just what kind of scratch the finish will tolerate filling in. So it wasn't all a loss. I tried brushing, thinning and wiping, staining pads, and even "brushing" with those weird rectangular pad things that puts down a lot of finish in one swipe. I eventually got it done well enough, but what a learning experience. I wish I had found your videos first, but I probably would have landed in the same predicament, knowing myself.

[@David-hm9ic]

Wipe-on poly rocks! It's super easy to get a nice finish. An alternative to mineral spirits for brushing is Penetrol by Flood. First coat is thinned 50/50; subsequent coats are thinned 10%-15%. Penetrol helps the poly or varnish soak into the wood on the first coat and helps with flow and leveling on subsequent coats. That's what I did when I had a sailboat with teak trim and the varnish looked like it had been sprayed onto the wood. Between coats sanding was done with 100 grit paper. It was not too coarse. It also helps to only brush from a dry area into a wet area; never back-and-forth because the brush can leave dents in the wet finish. A few days ago I needed to apply oil based Varathane to a solid core door that was to become a workbench top. I decided to try the forbidden - [gasp!] applying it with a roller. The roller had a soft 1/2" nap. In spite of the warnings on the can, the napped roller did not introduce bubbles. It actually went on better than with a brush. I just dipped some finish out of the can with an unwaxed paper cup and poured it over the door; then spread with the roller. Wrapping the roller with foil between coats let me use one roller for the entire job and then it was allowed to dry and tossed. The finish was not good enough for fine furniture but it was entirely good enough for an interior household door and certainly easier than brushing.

[@MB-xw1tu]

Ah... wonder if the penetrol helped with the roller. I have used it to get a smoother surface on some cheap bookcases I painted (with a small foam roller) and and it definitely improved results to a nice smooth glossy look.

[@SirTools]

Always the right way to do it.

[@richgorkes2284]

Excellent video - great advise from a craftsman.

[@martinoamello3017]

I used to spray in an industrial setting shooting oil based paint all day. My favorite mask was the blue Belcamp masks from NAPA automotive supply stores.. I don't know if they're still available, but they were less expensive than 3M, had a MUCH better fit and seal. Now I have a 3M just because I don't need it nearly as often. If you're spraying a lot, and by a lot I mean upwards of 50 or so gallons a week you should get a fresh air supply system that covers your entire body because you will absorb the solvents into your skin and will probably eventually wake up completely numb from your knees and elbows down to fingers and toes like I did.. I wear a mask no matter what I spray, no matter how much time I might be exposed. I had to learn the hard way when companies didn't care and neither did OSHA ..

[@noi5emaker]

Great GREAT advice. One thing I just can't get through to kids is how that stuff builds up, even if you're using an aerosol once in a while. Of course, being young they're "bullet proof" and it's just not "cool" to be careful! I'm with you - I wear a mask every single time I spray. It really isn't worth gambling with your health. At the end of the day, that's ALL you have!

[@jessegriffin9]

👍👍

[@IkesThePyro]

@@Zzrdemon6633 I was applying for a cabinetmaking job a few years back when I met an older lady who was their main finisher. You could tell that when she was younger, she'd be an easy 8.5-9/10. I thought for sure she was 45+. Nope. asked my buddy who worked there. She was 32. 32! She smoked and sprayed all day.

[@rickmartin7674]

Aw man, sorry to hear that. I have peripheral neuropathy as well (for other reasons) and it's not exactly fun.

[@bethoughtprovoking]

I’m in this one, too. Yes. Always wear a full-face respirator and body suit. No matter what you’re spraying, waterborne or solvent-based. When I suit up to shoot 2K solvent-based polyurethane, I can’t smell a thing; if you smell the solvent, it means you’re not completely protected. And, as every finisher knows, this stuff (especially the catalyst) is really nasty for your health. So, take the right precautions, and enjoy the aesthetics-and superior durability-of a spray-on finish! Once you’ve mastered the gun, you’ll never trade it in for anything else.

[@andymallarkey9367]

A very helpful, well-presented video. Thank you from a first-time crokinole board maker. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@johngaltline9933]

So, I don't rightly know, but I've always heard you shouldn't move the brush back and forth as we see here because it is more likely to make air bubbles in the finish. I've always gone in one direction only, or at least made sure the brush came completely off the work piece before changing direction. I don't know if it actually matters, but it gives results I'm happy with.

[@brandonkent8571]

I use a 10 inch flooring finish applicator for furniture (the foam kind not lambskin) it is very quick and easy to leave straight even coats with it for any flat surface.

[@dericcormier38]

Thank you for the video as I'm doing a kitchen bench with live edges for the first time, I want it to look nice and don't want toess it up so your video is greatly helping e with my choices on what to do and use. Thanks again for the very well done video.

[@rhpsoregon]

Instead of using semi-gloss and satin finishes, just use hi-gloss and buff the final coat with 0000 steel wool. The flattening agents in the other finishes also muddy the grain patterns of that nice beautiful wood with the extra special grain patterns that you spent beaucoup bucks on. If you feel you must use the semi or satin, get yourself a small can of that for your final coat and use hi-gloss underneath it. The sheen will look the same, but you'll see and enjoy the wood a whole lot more.

[@michaelwarren2391]

I've used pumice and/or rottenstone (mixed with water to form a paste) to buff out the final coat of gloss. Worked well for me.

[@SunLlamaMama]

I’ve got a butcher block island with my kitchen sink! Ive been searching for advise from professionals on the best sealant. They all say food grade oil. But I won’t be prepping food on it. Then they say gloss but I hate, hate, hate the shine. LoL, it’s been over a year with no finish bc I’ve been conflicted about finishes. I really like the idea about starting with a gloss and finishing with an end coat of satin. So glad you commented.

[@Dr_Xyzt]

Here in New Mexico, it's dry. 8% humidity usually. Polyurethane and tung oil are my preferences. I just dip a shop towel in the can and wipe it on. I use only gloss. If I want a satin finish, I scuff the part, dilute it 50/50, and wipe it thin. The only other finish I use is amber shellac. Those have to be kept out of the sun or they develop "crazing".

[@rustygear9370]

Very informative and clear. Eventhough it could give the wood an uneven finish thickness, what about spraying the PU ? Is it worth ? When working with large panels of plywood (intended for kitchen cabinets), hand finishing would take a infinite amount of time.

[@DiHandley]

I really appreciate the depth of information you give. Thanks so much!

[@valvenator]

Stumpy, I hope you read this. I mixed a new can of mineral spirits with poly for a wipe on finish and it wouldn't dry properly even after a few days. Seems that some of the odorless mineral spirits now contain water. Even though it says on the can it can be used as a paint thinner it definitely didn't work with the poly. I had to strip it all off and start from scratch wasting all my time and effort.

[@loriconner4680]

Agreed. The problem is the formulation of the Odorless Mineral Spirits.

[@artswri]

Thanks for another well thought out and produced video. Finishing is not my favorite part of the job, so your tips a d techniques are just what I need - get the job done with minimal fuss and best efficiency! Thanks!!

[@ourcommonancestry6025]

I love this channel. My finishes take months... I wish I could cheat it faster but I do enjoy the luster of taking one's time.

[@PlasmaHH]

don't know if I missed it or so, but the wipe on has some other advantages, for all kinds of finishes. first, it can penetrate deeper. it also follows the wood structure better and doesn't "pool up" in little dents and divets. this can be a benefit if you have some mix of sanded and structured wood surface. similar for surfaces with very varying grain structure where one soaks up about everything, its easier to work with using thinned out. you can experiment and also brush on thinned and wipe off etc.

[@garyoa1]

Forgot to mention you will need EXCELLENT lighting to be able to see any runs. Without good lighting they are practically invisible.

[@Fly420]

Hi Again Stumpy! An imitation Yachtsman? Actually I use a good grade of Oxtail brush for my "oil base" clears. Are you going to do a video on oiling wood with linseed/flax? When building guitars I handsand the neck to 600 then apply all the oil it wants to drink. Repeat after 3 days. After it's dry, use very small bit of talc (not cornstarch) on the neck whenever it is humid. This the absolute slickest finish I have found. The player's skin oils combine with the flax. You can do the same thing to a wood solidbody if the wood is pretty enough. TIP: pour a little bit of thinner into your brush, and knock off drips before first dip. The brush will clean far more easily. Same/same with water and latex/acrylic coatings.

[@cuebj]

Trend Stealth works great for me. Superb fit

[@DuffyHomoHabilis]

Instead of wiping the brush against the edge of the container, load the bristles, then tap the bristles against the inside of the container. It will hold more finish, but tapping removes the excess sufficiently. Give it a shot. Love the sports bottle trick!

[@SoCalRhetor]

Searched for this video specifically to use your (Trend) link to buy from your sponsor--thanks for the great videos!

[@Shellova]

Thank you for this easy to understand video, sir.

[@TaylerMade]

so glad you used a real brush not those darn foam things. i tried a foam brush once and it was impossible to lay the poly on evenly. i guess people just don't know how to clean a brush properly. a 1/4 cup of thinners at most is all you need for a perfectly clean brush that size. and really only takes a couple of minutes. i am still using the same high quality brush after over 20 years of use.

[@lilherman2793]

I always use the foam brushes and never have any issues with them. Of course I'm only an amatuer/beginner, but I've used both water and oil based polys and no one's ever said the finish was uneven. (and I do know how to clean a brush, I just prefer not to)

[@benlee803]

I like to wrap my brushes in plastic wrap or aluminium foil. This works well for rollers if you need to make a run to the hardware store or have lunch. (Sometimes works overnight)

[@gteam53]

Outstanding video. Very helpful.

[@NeedsMoreToys]

Great tips. One thing not mentioned is the primary reason/benefit of thinning i.e. the reduction or elimination of bubbles that form in unthinned poly.

[@jqlmanufacturing9129]

Nice vid 1. I wipe on my first finish with a 50/50 mix 2. I wipe on my second finish with a 75/25 mix after a very lite sand 3. I wipe my third finish with 100% poly after a very lite sand 4. I brush on my 4th, 5th, and 6th finished (Based on application)

[@whogoes]

Thanks for the detail & choices. I am not knowledgeable about finishes.

[@Newport31311]

I've never ventured into thinning finishes mainly because I had never been exposed to it. Now that I see the benefits I'll have to give it a try. Something I've found that works VERY well for a smooth streak-free finish is those painting pads you get at home depot. They are rectangular, have a foam backing so they hold a lot of product, and many fine soft bristles so the urethane lays very flat. Take a bit of finesse but the results are fantastic

[@paulkramer4176]

I agree. They allow you to get a REALLY nice consistent surface. I generally only use them for water base though, as it is easy to clean them with lots of water. But for a table top, they leave a GREAT surface. I have some great brushes that can give that finish, but, those brushes are expensive. Sure, spraying is the best, but when I don't want to get out a sprayer, and don't have a spray booth, then those pads are great.

[@MB-xw1tu]

are these like the ones that you use as an edger when you paint walls (or that is what they are sold for... I don't use them for that because they smear paint VERY smooth, as you mentioned)

[@Newport31311]

@@MB-xw1tu yes I've seen them advertised for that purpose too

[@indisputablefacts8507]

If all I ever had to finish were flat, horizontal surfaces that I could lay on my workbench, I'd be able to produce some pretty great finishes too. The reason I now only used water-based poly is that runs and drips are far easier to spot.

[@troypritchard2999]

Another great video...... I use 4 ought steel wool between layers.....

[@riffdex]

I’m trying to paint my electric guitar, and many recommend a poly finish. What do you think about this?

[@johnheidmann1616]

Nice to have a brush box to susupend brush in solvent and brush spinner for oil base clean up.

[@Rocket62AL]

I assume that the same procedure applies more or less when you stain the wood first, no? Also, I really appreciate all the great video tutorials you make available. I watch one most evenings before bed and I have learned a lot. A sincere thank you …

[@MrBonners]

6:50. Also 'dry brush' with thinner coat to flow the highs into the lows, breaks the surface tension of the highs. mix in a touch of finish to slow the thinner flash off. Watch out for pilot lights and other forgotten flame and spark producing equipment.

[@MCsCreations]

Excellent tips, James! Thanks! 😃 What about starting with wipe on poly and finishing it with the brush? Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@caseymeyer5773]

Thanks for the great video, I can't believe I am taking advice from a Redwings fan, but I guess I will.

[@m.m.land_YT]

did you ever wind up making a video about water based poly? I can't find it on your channel

[@omegaflameZ]

A tip for not having as much mess in the lip of the can and on your workbench during the pour/filter step. You can get these neat little plastic paint can lips that snap onto the outer lip of the can. A few places carry them, at least the big orange store does for sure. They cost about a buck and cleanup is pretty easy. Wait till the product is dry and peel it away. Not as good for stains but anything heavily bodied like paint or poly they work a treat and make cleanup much easier. Only downside is when new they are a bit stiff to get onto a quart can, so maybe don't break it in on a full can.

[@TaylerMade]

punch a few holes in the lid recess, so excess poly caught in it drains back into the tin. i never wipe excess finish out of the brush as it leaves the brush to dry. dip and then give a brush a couple of taps against the inside of the tin.

[@timothyleiby2798]

So helpful as always. Would you ever do a video about spray finishes with some recommendations? Having a really hard time figuring out where to start.

[@fredcdobbs823]

Does wiping off dust with denatured alcohol also act as a wood conditioner? Do thin wiping finishes even need a wash coat or a wood conditioner?

[@actionjksn]

Another good way to get a slick factory looking finish is do 2 or 3 coats just like he shows here and after prepping the last coat with sandpaper. Get a can of the Minwax spray polyurethane and spray everything. You do not have to sand between coats or wait for it to completely dry. Fact you're not supposed to let it completely dry between coats. After you spray a coat wait 5 to 10 minutes and spray it again. You can just keep doing this until you run out of product. The spray stuff is kind of thin to use on its own but it is great for a top coating over the brush on stuff. There is another brand of this product that is not worth a crap so don't use it and stick with minwax aerosol.

[@actionjksn]

Wrapping up a brush with oil base does not work like with water based products, but there is a way to preserve your brush with oil base. Wrap the brush with aluminum foil and put it in a container of water. This will keep it soft for a long time. When you're ready to start putting your finish on again just go to a safe place and whip the brush hard and sling the water out of it. The oil based product will not mix with water at all so it's not a problem.

[@downard3754]

Where is your tutorial on water based polyurethane?

[@downhomeonthefarm6464]

Try out Cabots Australian Gold finishs. 3 coats with light sanding between coats on grainy wood has the look of the old automotive candy apple finish. Specially their "Sunlit Cherry"

[@user-navdeeppalsingh]

I did oil based stain on small section of dining table then applied one thin coat of Minwax spar urethane. After coat is dry for 24hr. Then I used 320 grit sandpaper to buff it before going for second coat. Problem is sandpaper has left scratchy marks and lines although surface feels very smooth. Did I misstep anything? How can the sandpaper scratches be removed?

[@MarionJInce]

I thin oil base poly for my first brushed on coat on bare wood. This allows the poly to penetrate the surface and provide a sealing base for the next coats. Then the next brushed coats are full poly thickness. I lightly rub 0000 steel wool after each coat is dry to level the surface. I then wipe the surface down with light mineral spirits on a rag before the next coat. I prefer to brush on poly rather than wipe on poly. Just my preference.

[@StumpyNubs]

Arm-R-Seal is already pretty thin. It soaks in quite well.

[@Hellsong89]

Lol, i just thin out the full can with how much fits into the can shake it and start spreading it with diy brush made from folding this random roll of cleaning rags, thin synthetic sheets of cloth basically. Do the how many coats i need with pretty thick layers, then give it a sand with 380 grit and get proper brush to finish the surfaces with final coat or use spray gun. Since i use cheapest brushes around i wont clean them, but instead try to use brush end to put on the final coat, let it dry, cut out the hardened part and use the rest in some early layer or just paint jobs. If you have poly thin enough that it runs properly it will level it self out pretty well. If i make anything fancies then its the spray gun for final layer, though i should probably try that wipe on poly sometimes, might be less messy and give better results.

[@emilymbong2257]

Thank you so much for your very informative video. Do you have any tips on how I could recover polyurethane that has become thick in the can? I paid a lot of money for the 5 gallon ‘Fast Dry - Heavy Traffic’ polyurethane last year and only used about half a gallon. I just opened the can today and noticed a very thick coat at the top of the can and when I took off the coat, the poly underneath was very thick. What can I do to make it light again so I could use it on my bedroom floor? I went to the store earlier today and saw the 2.5 gallon are selling for almost $150🤦🏻. I still have over 4.5 gallons left in that can. What do I do? I will appreciate any advice that I can get. Thanks What do I do,

[@matthewwright57]

I make a lot of furniture but I hate brushing anything. If I need to use an oil based varnish, I always thin it and wipe it. Usually 70/30. Hard wax oil changed my whole world though and I haven't used oil varnish in a long time.

[@matthewwright57]

Also if you want a semi-gloss or satin finish, you only need to use it for the last coat.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

Just wanna say again I preciate how often you post! Why your my boy blue

[@TonecrafteLuthiery]

You should add “oil based” to the title. Needed this video but it was a little difficult to find because of the water vs oil based Poly thing.

[@erroldawdy3637]

Stumpy, is there anything I can add to your mix to give it some colour? Thanks

[@ProDMiner]

TYSM

[@johndiraimo1444]

Can I use the wipe on poly method over a wooden drum shell where I've used Tru Oil? It's curing right now. It has about 12 coats of Tru Oil with the last two thinned with Mineral spirits. I'm looking to add a thicker protective coating so the Poly seems like a great option. I'm sure I would need to lightly sand the True oil finish before adding the poly. Also, it is a rounded shell ... could I wipe on the poly by dipping the towel/rag in the liquid instead of pouring some on the shell? I fear it would run down the shell if I poured it on. I worked with the shell suspended by a piece of wood through the middle so that I could easily rotate it. Thank you ... your videos are gold.

[@walteranderson4147]

Thanks for this video. Could you tell me the manufacturer of this brush as I will be doing this type of project soon and the brush you showed will be something I would like to use. Thank you Wally Anderson

[@wilsmith2907]

Great video refresher, thank you. However, you mentioned this was great for indoor (agreed) and some outdoor projects. I am currently making some small Cedar wooden signs for the outside. Will this be a good application for that project? Thank you

[@chehoo4761]

How many coats for a dining table if you rub it on? Thanks!

[@profcah]

Excellent. All I can say.

[@michaelgodfrey9384]

How long does the 50/50 mix of poly/mineral spirits take to dry vs straights poly?

[@TS-JungleMonkey]

Great video. Can I use thinned-polyurethane wood finish to re-glue delaminated/bubbled PU finish on a guitar? People have used CA glue to do this but it is way too strong.

[@qd63991]

I really like oil based poly, and have used it for years. But I always have brushed it on, or wiped. Have you ever used an HPLV sprayer? I’d like to refinish a kitchen table and I’m considering spraying it, but would like your recommendation.

[@wjb111]

Go Wings!

[@geneortis6652]

Can’t get to your recommendations for masks!!!!

[@blindcat688]

Can I apply it after I paint metallic gold paint please?

[@AtotheZ7]

What are some pet safe finishes? I'd like to make cat furniture. Also, how do you properly dispose of the stuff you cleaned your brushes with? What's the best way to the polyurathane? Can you pour the stuff you used (if you're using a brush) back into the container?

[@freds4703]

As a chemist who worked with solvents for my entire career, I recommend using a respirator specifically designed to absorb solvent vapors such as a 3M respirator with 3M 60921 Cartridge/Filter Organic Vapor cartridges if you are working for any time with solvent based materials. Once you smell solvent, ditch the cartridge and buy new. Also ditch if past the expiration date.

[@TheTrock121]

When finishing a lot of surface, such as several doors, I like to roll the urethane on and then brush out.

[@OldinMariner]

that is called "roll and tip" in the yacht painting business

[@joeviragh8721]

very nice video, any thoughts on talking about spraying on the poly. I have been doing this for years with a small air sprayer with adjustable spray tip. speeds up the process and you can control the thickness as well.

[@ImmanuelWoodworking]

I am curious as well

[@Justanormalguy191]

I have also been using hplv spraying for years. I get very nice coats.

[@ImmanuelWoodworking]

@@Justanormalguy191 glad I’m on the right track then 👏🏼

[@victorthecarguy3126]

What about spraying?

[@mrmukura]

What about rollers for large areas? I do a bit of sealing on cemeticious materials, and hitting 20-30m2 of area follows the same theories outlined as a per this video, but with roller application you're cutting out pretty good sized sections at a time. So, if you were polying timber at 8'x4', say a table top, then hitting it with even a 4" sleeve on a pole is going to afford you good stroke length.

[@luvpostrock69]

I'm getting ready to poly a mantle and since this is my first time I've been doing lots of reading and watching. One point that I find the most confusing is that there seems to be no consensus on sandpaper grit. I've seen 220, 320, 400, 600. What gives? The manufacturer recommends 220. You recommend 400. I totally love your videos, I've learned lots, but what really is correct?

[@StumpyNubs]

"The manufacturer recommends ..." I have never seen any consensus among manufacturers on sanding grits. That's because there are no hard, fast rules. I recommended what works best for me. If something else works for you, do that.

[@luvpostrock69]

@@StumpyNubs Great, thanks for your response. I guess I'll just go for it. 🤞🤞

[@tomacquilano1304]

How do you eliminate bubbles from application using a brush?

[@StumpyNubs]

If you don't put it on too thick, the bubbles should disperse as it levels, before it dries.

[@joeg9523]

Clarify please. Initially you said to wipe down the bare wood after sanding with denatured alcohol. Then after the 1st coat of poly to sand lightly and wipe with water? Seems like wiping with denatured alcohol it would evaporate and dry more quickly.

[@bobfinnecy4231]

Can you brush the first coat and wipe coats 2&3? Or, wipe first then brush?

[@1kreature]

You didn't mention anything about a application window for second coat? I've experienced som e massive wrinkling of previous coat with oil based pu finish. Still trying to figure out what I did wrong. I expect I waited around 18 hours from first coat. Can says Second coat: Al least 5 hours. It also says light duty: 8 hours and heavy duty: 24 hours. Dust-dry 50min. It does not specify a second coat window and I may also have had problems with the base-oiled wood. All I know is I had to scrape the wrinkly gunk off and try again.

[@StumpyNubs]

I didn't?

[@plee1108]

I have a hardwood countertop, few years ago when I just got it, I sand it and applied butcher block conditioner (mineral oil and wax based). It has been 3 or 4 years since I last applied this conditioner, because I don't like it. I want to switch to oil based poly, is it possible? I heard that after applied mineral oil and wax, nothing will stick, including oil based poly.