Precisely micro-adjusting your router table fence (Free jig!)

[@StumpyNubs]

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[@MRichK]

I have to say I got a sanding block from them on your recommendation, and dang if it isn't one of the most used items. Very handy and practical. I find I am even using it on a shooting board like a plane.

[@nevadacool]

I really appreciate your videos because you don't try to entertain viewers, you instruct viewers. So many youtube content creators are just trying to get views to pay their bills. KZbin was the place to learn from professions, now it's got ads at every turn, and so many fake professional instructors. Can't remember when putting paint on furniture qualified as "refinishing," or better said, "fine furniture". Too funny, thanks, sorry for the rant.

[@watermain48]

I'd heard people say that about router tables, but didn't get it until now. Thanks James.

[@Jack-es9xq]

the simplest ideas are almost always the best. thanks for this one

[@9700am]

I have just finished making an adjustable fence to my homemade table router. It uses a second fence which has a bolt epoxied through it, into a female M10 knob, in either end of the fence. A spring gives the return adjustment. There are two tubes , through both fences, to keep the adjusting fence at 90 degrees to the primary fence.. Your idea is much, much simpler, as usual. I think I’ll delay my next project by a week or so, in case you come up with another cracking idea. Keep posting.🇬🇧

[@ronl6060]

You are very good at pointing out the painfully obvious and making me feel like a fool. Thanks for jolting my mind and making me think. Loved the video.

[@crazytomato4845]

Speaking of big clumsy hands how is the recovery coming along, I wish you the best and speediest recovery

[@tedd1091]

I used to spend 20 minutes trying to get my fence parallel to the router bit - moving both sides. I had no idea it was this easy. Thanks James

[@johnvgig]

FINALLY!!!! The reason why it doesn’t matter that the router table fence need NOT BE PERFECTLY PARALLEL TO THE EDGE OF THE ROUTER TABLE explained. I’ve ALWAYS wondered, in all the videos I’ve watched, why people were NOT obsessing about the fence being parallel to the edge of the table, as I was. I have an inexpensive router table with a split fence. I can’t tell you how much time and effort I’ve wasted, trying to get both sides to the right cutting depth AND parallel to the edge of the table. THANK YOU! I was contemplating spending a LOT of money to get a top of the line table/fence that would ensure the fence WOULD be parallel to the edge of the table.

[@StumpyNubs]

The principal is the same with a drill press, as well. The distance between the bit and the fence is the same, no matter the angle of the fence itself.

[@mururoa7024]

I bought a couple of those Duragrit files and sanding blocks and absolutely love them. I don't think I would've known about that brand without your channel. Thanks!👍

[@danielszemborski]

You, sir, are a freaking genius! Thanks!

[@garybadger325]

I have been using the pivot for adjusting the fence since I saw Sommerfeld's videos. He actually has designed a router fence system that uses a pivot pin on one side of the fence and a screw clamp on the other. Great tips. Love your channel.

[@Michael-yt3wz]

Always glad to get these little tips. Now I need a router table and drill press. I'll remember this when I do.

[@Yawles]

Brilliant! And easy to understand the reasoning. I don't know if I can tolerate how great I'm getting at woodworking while attending your classes!

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video James. It is really good to see that your hand is healing up.

[@jhh243]

This changes everything! THANK YOU SIR!

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Great video and tips, thank you, James!

[@bentcountershaft]

If I had a nickel for every time I said out loud, "Why didn't I think of that?" after watching one of your videos I'd have a nice stash of Bazooka gum.

[@MoreHace]

This always came naturally to me. But i noticed that when you say this to people they find it weird haha. Good thing you made this video!

[@FIRESTORM23]

This helped a LOT! Thanks!

[@robertmadden7536]

Such a simple solution. Why didn’t I think of it before. Thank you

[@cindioneill2769]

Just found this video. Brilliant!

[@sylviacolburn1462]

Exactly whai I needed! & what an Easy-to-Make Micro-adjuster! Thanks

[@sparkyprojects]

I agree with only one end, a quick way to micro adjust is to put your finger next to the fence, then roll the tip towards the fence ;) (works on table saws too)

[@robertbamford8266]

Micro adjuster - brilliant. I’ll probably use a tapped sleeve (already have a few extras and I rarely have the sense to leave well enough alone). Thanks for the video!

[@mbmurphy777]

I got the Dura grit products a few weeks ago and they are fantastic! thanks for the tip

[@criswilson1140]

I never thought about adding a micro adjuster to the router fence.

[@DrMackSplackem]

I know, right? The best tips are so obvious in hindsight.

[@scottmaris6516]

Thanks James! A very timely video as I was just wondering about this very subject regarding an upcoming project.

[@jimw544]

Great idea James! That's really the same thing a router lift does. It's just a screw with 16 thread per inch. Need to move it a 64th, that's a quarter turn. But like James said in this case a single turn would be about half at the router bit.

[@timhalcomb4041]

Enjoyed the video Very helpful information you have a blessed day

[@bobhall2171]

Excellent advice as usual. I like the simple jig too.

[@mattbowers5342]

Excellent tip!

[@richragan4810]

Thank yu so much for this tip. VERY useful!

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty interesting! Thanks a lot for the tip! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@Ferndalien]

If you make the screw micro adjuster keep the threads per inch of your screw in mind. I have found that it's easier with either 32 threads per inch where one turn is 1/32, a half turn is 1/64 both of which are divisions on many combination square rules. I find these easier to work with. Or go with 20 threads per inch, where one turn is 0.05" and 1/2 turn is 0.025 inches if you prefer working in tenth-hundredth-thousandths.

[@michaelreed9652]

Wonderful and useful information as always......

[@tommc49]

How timely, I just figured this out yesterday before watching this vid. I figured out a while ago that the fence does not need to be square to the table.

[@drail80s]

Bob and Rick from the Router Workshop Series, used the micro adjust all the time, it was a hammer lol

[@frankenberry9670]

I believe the "Fine Adjusting Tool" was a small hammer and the "Adjusting Tool" was a regular sized hammer. Still works for me.

[@StumpyNubs]

Hammers have been used for centuries to adjust hand planes.

[@nobuckle40]

More good info! Thanks!

[@MrBonners]

I would call this 'clue-in' like kinda a 'DUH!' moment.

[@jeffwhite6343]

Wow I feel like I should have thought about that sooner I guess starting my power tool journey with a table saw I just automatically adjusted the whole thing but nothing to be parallel to just blew my mind. lol

[@photovore099]

Cool.. The micro adjust for the router fence looks rad.. So what is the best way to micro adjust the tablesaw? Any videos for jigs for that? Thanks! 😛

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thanks for sharing your information with us.

[@monster1200]

The adjuster jig can also be used in tandem with feeler gauges to move precision amounts (if you mount them either side). Unnecessary? Usually. Satisfying? Always.

[@tonyn3123]

I am seriously considering a Dura Grit sanding disc or sanding block. Not sure which yet (or both) but the reviews are impressive. It's rare to see all positive reviews. The 5" random orbit sander I have is hook and loop and I understand there can be issue with the OEM velcro pad. Do you have a comment regarding the attachment? I have already replaced my sander's hook and loop pad once due to failure. It's a PC for your information. Thanks.

[@StumpyNubs]

If the velcro is good, it will hold the disc. They send a new velcro pad in the package with the disc to put on your sander if you need it. My recommendation is to try a 120 grit sanding block and a coarse sanding disc. The block will be useful for all sorts of things. The disc will be great for aggressive sanding and leveling. Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS

[@frosiaburlakova7732]

You mean, I don't have to buy a $1K router fence from Woodpeckers to microadjust? Lol. Thank you for the microadjust screw tip! Very handy!

[@rogerj.fugere3570]

Love the constant Red Wings homage. Go Wings!.................................rj

[@barney2001]

Moving one end of the fence is a great idea. I use a small hammer to microadjust the fence. Just lazy.

[@bassrun101]

Garry not Linda. Actually this is common practice in a metalworking machine shop. A small hammer, a dial indicator and very light taps make for a very precise adjustment.

[@BRICOLAJELISTO]

Esta bien el ajuste del router.

[@simonmurray2002]

People have weird ocd about the fence being parallel. Make the front of the table with a curve to both remove that reference surface for your eye and to re-enforce that the bit is a centre not an axis plane

[@zapa1pnt]

And, by so doing, reduce the size of your support surface. No.

[@simonmurray2002]

@@zapa1pnt Im not talking about creating a semi circular table, more a very large radius, say the table is 900mm wide, make the corners 880mm. Think about other tools that work about a point like an oscillating spindle sander, their tables are typically a kind of horse shoe shape

[@Mike.DeNinno]

Lack of micro adjustment is my main complaint with my fairly expensive Jessem router table.

[@WattWood]

Do Duragrit make 150mm sanding discs ? i have tried contacting them but had no response and the U.K does not even have any retailers who sell the 125mm discs .

[@xoxo2008oxox]

A serious user would have a shaper that has split fence already. My neighbor has one (does beads, moulding, ...) and when I asked why not a router table, he smiles and says, this has 5HP, slides and tilts, and bits that can eat through oak all day. Ofcourse, not all of us have $4K to fork over...thus a cheap router table will do.

[@adama1294]

I kinda remember you living in Michigan. You opening up shop now that the judges in your state ruled unanimously that the lock down order is unconstitutional after the first 28 days?

[@StumpyNubs]

We were only shut down for a few weeks in the spring. Most things have been opened up for quite a while. There are a lot of regulations about businesses with employees (temperature checks, etc.) But there is no restriction on our ability to do business. Bars and restaurants are limited, though. All of this will continue because the supreme court decision only effects the Governor's executive orders. Now the health department and other agencies are making policies that essentially do the same thing.

[@jalep3]

Put an indicator on the fence while adjusting it, they you will know how much you are moving it.

[@jazzgod21]

I've been wondering about this with my from press table. Would this still hold true though if i was drilling out something like a mortise? I would think i would need it parallel in that case?

[@austinhastings8793]

No. There's still nothing to be parallel to. However, you would want to make sure you were careful about positioning your stock correctly beneath the drill. Use the pivoting adjustment method (& micro-adjuster, if you make one) to control the distance between the center of the bit and the front of the fence. Then position your stock on the fence and slide it left or right to position where the hole goes in the stock long-ways.

[@jazzgod21]

@@austinhastings8793 it makes sense when people say it, i just have a mental block when trying to picture it

[@StumpyNubs]

To cut a mortise (or a dado) the path of the bit must be parallel to the edge of the workpiece. The fence, a sled, a miter gauge or in the case of a handheld router, the edge guide, are what guide the cut in a straight line and maintain a consistent distance between the bit and the edge of the workpiece from one end of the cut to the other.

[@_Tuuri]

Hmmm this is embarassingly simple lol thank you!

[@Pete.Ty1]

😊👍

[@tomasbajarunas6416]

Kinda obvious, isn't it? As well, I see some fence micro adjusters installed close to the router bit, which is flawed by design. Should be just a single one at the very end (or beginning) of the fence. The only reason for sliding the fence in parallel is if you have a sled on tracks for doing finger joints? But I saw some design of a sled where it was sliding on a track that was on the fence. So, even in that scenario, there is no need for a fence that slides in parallel.

[@HepauDK]

The fence for my router is clamped to the fence of my jobsite tablesaw (DeWalt DW745 Type 4), and that fence is adjusted by rotating a knob. Not much room for micro-adjustments there...

[@ironwood1621]

I can’t find the free jig plans.

[@StumpyNubs]

I didn't say there were plans. I show you the jig in the video. You should be able to make it without plans, it's very simple.

[@ironwood1621]

Stumpy Nubs oh. My bad.

[@darrylportelli]

Add a dial gauge to that jig and you'll have a readout of how much you're micro adjusting ..... If you want to complicate things so that friends think you're super fancy, you can get a digital dial gauge with a digital output and hook up a small screen ... Fence DRO 🤣🤣🤣

[@PrivateUsername]

Do you really read all the comments tho? :)

[@StumpyNubs]

I didn't read yours.

[@lacarpenter31]

@@StumpyNubs That answer wobbles my mind. 🤯

[@DKWalser]

"Nothing to be parallel to", this is true. Which is why miter slots in router tables are seldom useful (as a miter slot). They can be useful to hold a feather board or sume such, but not for sliding a jig parallel to the bit.

[@StumpyNubs]

The miter slot is used to pass the end of a workpiece across a bit without it moving closer to or away from the bit during the cut. It is not "parallel" to the bit, but it maintains a consistent distance from the bit throughout the pass. It is very handy for when a fence can't be used.

[@scotttovey]

It's such a simple question many ask: "Why didn't I think of that?" That's an OK question and all but; why don't router tables and drill presses come with micro adjusters already on them? Hmm? Maybe because it's so simple and obvious that they can't put a patent on it?

[@lazarjovic9948]

Well manufacturers don't need a patent on that to add it to their machines. I think it's simply an oversight. Nobody is asking for this feature, and so nobody adds it. You might see a very sudden change, where once one manufacturer adds it, suddenly all add that same feature

[@scotttovey]

@@lazarjovic9948 "Well manufacturers don't need a patent on that to add it to their machines." I know that and you know that, but sometimes, manufacturers act like they don't know that. "You might see a very sudden change, where once one manufacturer adds it, suddenly all add that same feature" I agree, sometimes all it takes is for one to do it, then it suddenly becomes an industry standard.