Sub-Zero Sealed System Leak or Restriction?

[@PhilSoussanOfficial]

Hi and thank you for your excellent videos! I have a SZ 501F that is not as cold as would be desired (it is around 8 to 9 F) I put gauges up and am showing a little high on both sides... 15 psi on the suction and 250 psi on the high side (??) I am not suspecting a leak, nor a restriction. Maybe there is TOO much refrigerant in the system? The auto defrost timer has been determined to be working correctly and is not suspect. If you have any pointers I would be most appreciative! On a related question, I am curious... is it possible to repair, by soldering, an expansion coil such as is found on these types of models?

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

@@PhilSoussanOfficial 15psi normally is a dirty condenser, faulty compressor or too much Freon. No you cannot use an expansion valve.

[@PhilSoussanOfficial]

@@SubZeroSpecialists Thank you for your response, and please forgive me… stupid typo - I was referring to the evaporator coil! If there is a leak in the evaporator is that something that typically can be repaired with solder or is it always a replacement? Regarding the initial problem, my suspicion is that the unit may have been overcharged. The compressor is fairly new and any dust has been completely removed from the condenser. The fan motor is also new. What should those low and hi pressures read ideally? …Bearing in mind it is using R 12 Thanks again :-)

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

@@PhilSoussanOfficial is it an aluminum or copper evaporator? If you know where the leak is yes you can solder it, if it’s an aluminum evaporator and it’s leaking at the blast joint I have a video on how to repair it. Soldering aluminum is tricky due to its low melting point, but it can be done.

[@mikhailtronik4322]

Let's say your evaporator or accumulator is full of oil. Do you think blowing nitrogen through suction and out the cap tube at the filter would resolve the restriction? Thanks.

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

Yes I believe so, but then your compressor will need oil otherwise you might burn it out. There’s no way to check the oil level. If you can measure the amount of oil you blow out then you can add the same amount, that in my opinion would be the way to treat this problem.

[@appliancedude63]

​@@SubZeroSpecialists Do you recommend any liquid flush to remove that oil or just dry nitrogen?

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

If you suspect acid or moisture in the system then flush it. It may eliminate problems afterwards.

[@appliancedude63]

@@SubZeroSpecialists what liquid do you suggest flushing it with?

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

Any HVAC flush

[@dnpsubzro]

Hi ! Great Videos … I’ve been repairing Sub Zero’s for about 25yrs. You actually look familiar. Is this Arron ? NYC ? Nevertheless I have a question. 700 , BI’s and now I’m Seeing the IT’s with that extremely small drain hole. I went on an IT - 36 refrigerator not draining. I couldn’t find anything as of yet to get that angle to blow it out. I’m sure you’ve seen this. Any suggestions on what I can use to blow out that drain ? The angle doesn’t allow for a straight up blowout like on a 500 , 600 series. The 700’s were hard enough but this IT-36 is mind boggling.

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

Yes this is Aaron, I made a special tool using the 1/4” copper tubing that comes with the 500-600 series water valves, it has 90 degree bend in it. Send me your contact info and I’ll send you a pic.

[@craigberube9890]

I also have a 650 , with a constant vacuum condenser message, Had the the whole sealed system on fridge side replaced . I was understanding that when that message appeared it meant there was a leak . Fridge is holding temp Message remains . Thoughts please Thanks

[@rajinramroop9572]

Hi - have a question. I have a 632 and my freezer temp fluctuates between 0 and 20 from time to time throughout the day. Have you encountered that before? Thanks

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

Many times

[@SubZeroSpecialists]

I have one but never use it