SUBARU Timing Belt Installation! PERFECT EVERY TIME! SOHC EJ25 EJ20 TIMING MARKS AND BELT GUIDE

[@EasyFixShaun]

*_Wizard level timing belt trick:_* kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXi9gIuoftZlh5o *_New sway bar link video_* kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoSbe3WblM-hbMk *_Best Subaru tool for Impossible Rear Wheel Bearings:_* kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3zUiqeDmdGDj9E

[@chris002able]

The only legit 2.5L timing belt video

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks! Glad you like it 😃🔧

[@fighttheswine]

@@chris002able agreed

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Just a fact, My son bought a 2000 Outback about 7 years ago with well over 180k miles. After the first 6 months, it blew a head gasket. He ended up dumping a can of BarsLeak in it, along with a quart of oil every other day, and it's pushing 215k miles. Needless to say, I was impressed, so I just recently bought my wife a 2006 Forester for 3 grand with 167k miles. I like these Subarus, and like anything else, if you do the preventive maintenance, they should last you for a long time. Thanks again, and BTW, you have a new subscriber. PEACE

[@EasyFixShaun]

That’s awsome! Subaru’s are great cars for sure. I’m glad they are working out for you. Ya the headgaskets have a bad reputation. But when they go bad most people can drive for months and years as long as they keep fluids full. Great cars man. Glad to have you aboard! Much appreciate 😃

[@writerjmd]

With oil costing $4 a quart, it would still be expensive to put in a 15 quarts a month.

[@niktarasyuk8514]

The situation is a lot more different when you are installing the belt when engine is on the car, not on the stand. I would like to add to this great video the following: 1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbbed. 2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run 3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where install bolts go 4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones. 5. when you are installing the last two, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them. 6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine. So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements: 1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first. Not like on this video, when the tensioner is fitted with the top idler already fitted - this might not work, as you have to stretch the belt and fit the bolt into the hole that you don't see. And the tensioner will have tendency to skew. MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that also might not work for you, as the cog pulley is also a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch. 2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch. That will work.

[@EasyFixShaun]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGrUc5Vrpcl3b9E Subbie Belt install video I have seen zero belt stretch failure from using the trick. I have done this for a long, long time 😃. This engine out of vehicle is demonstration only. 99% of use cases for me have been with the engine in vehicle. If there is ever a belt failure it won't be attributed to the trick. It would be attributed to non-OEM belts. Oem Belts do not fail in their time and mileage range rating, with or with out using the trick. Automatic tensioners will take up some and give some slack to do the trick. Non-Automatic-tension style belts (Some Honda's 3.5L for example) I have also had zero belt failures. This is Experience 😃

[@Alniemi]

I agree with the OEM parts for this especially. You really dont want the timing belt or idlers to fail. its one of the single most important parts for your engine!!!

[@EasyFixShaun]

The worst is going through all that work and having a failure for no reason except trying to save money on parts. I have seen many Subbies motors fail from that scenario. Not worth it. Subaru or Aisin only 😃🔧

[@Alniemi]

@@EasyFixShaun luckily I’ve got an ej22 so worst that can happen is you call AAA but still, I prefer not to be broke down lol

[@EasyFixShaun]

True. Breaking down sucks. I have seen lots of broken belts on the ej25 and although its classified an interference motor usually 90% will be ok. I have seen several make piston to valve contact though. So I say its not remotely worth the risk. If it ever happens once you will discover its NEVER a subaru or Mitsubishi genuine belt made in japan (i have even seen knockoffs!) or an idler that caused it within the service limits. It is always aftermarket parts that cause this stuff within the service limits. It usually occurs with 30-60k miles. These aftermarket kits all have warranties. They will never pay for the new engine needed, but will be happy to give the customer another belt. They are horrible. end rant 😃

[@Alniemi]

@@EasyFixShaun yes! OEM parts really stand the test of time. I just had to replace my fuel pump in my 96 and I pulled it out and found it had a manufacturer stamp of 95! That fuel pump has been going for 26 years and 253,000 miles!!! I need to replace my rear axles soon as they make a bit of a wub wub noise, but they’re originals too! Things were really made to last in the 90s!

[@EasyFixShaun]

@@Alniemi Wow that is really good durability! Nice work man! 😃🔧

[@rover215]

Got my Mitsuboshi kit and waiting for a good weather weekend to do mine. Glad you demonstrated with an EJ22 (like mine). Mine's bleeding oil from several places to I'm going to use your method to remove the cam bolts for seal replacement. Thanks!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Awsome man! Make sure you get Subaru cam seals if you can. Others will work. But I have seen the seal lip on aftermarket cam seals be off by a mm or so and cause another leak from not being on the seal surface correctly once installed. Let me know how your project goes!

[@sammcelwain7220]

Thanks for this video. I spent 2 hrs trying to get my belt on before seeing this. Using your ratchet trick to make more slack I was able to get the belt on in 5 minutes.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Awesome man! I am so glad it helped out 😀

[@tousseaugustin6548]

the marks on the belt are erased after each how many teeth I can find

[@massimocamorani8066]

much respect for easy, clear,no fuss video.Just love the explanation as should be in this field and not only.Can this method and configuration work for a ej16?I mean the 1.6 litre.Many thanks

[@EasyFixShaun]

Absolutely 😃

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Okay, the belt came in TODAY. Exactly what I ordered. Now in the comparison between the two belts, the "NO NAME" looks a bit thicker and a smidge wider than the Mitsubishi. Also, getting a shit load of feed-back on China vs Japan products pertaining to this issue. Most are saying China has stepped up its game. In any event, I'm going to get started as soon as the weather breaks, hopefully, IT does before "I" do !!! PEACE my friend, and you can bet yer Bippy I'll be in touch.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sounds great man! If I may plead with you on the belt though...Get Mitsuboshi or OEM subaru only. If you use that chineasium belt it will work at first but it will break and you will regret it. Love ya buddy. I just want your ride to not break. I am an expert on the matter. I too experimented and it cost me thousands in repair with belt breakage and a couple damaged engines. It made for some really bad days for me. I put a whole batch of the china belts in multiple cars and deeply regretted it.

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Me again, hope all is well on your end. I took your advice and discombobulated the belt. Sure enough, the lower passenger pulley and cog needed to be replaced. The tensioner seemed to be fine, no leaks. I re-bled it and slapped everything back in. I still have that ominous rattle ... tweak on a cold start. I noticed a slight oil leak above the oil filter and oil drain plug. Someone obviously went apeshit when they did the oil change. Anyway, thanx for the info, and I'm sure I'll be hitting you up for more. Have a great day! PEACE

[@EasyFixShaun]

Nice job man! You should be good for a 100k miles now. 😃Those pulleys usually last 100-150k if Japanese (Aisin or OEM). 30-50k max if ANY other brand is used. If someone puts just a belt on, the pulleys usually fail halfway through the new belts life cycle. A lot of people believe in the warranties of parts and I don’t blame them, it’s a good indicator of quality. But....I have seen so many people learn the hard way that a parts warranty doesn’t mean $*%#! Get Japanese parts only for your Subaru. Thanks a lot for checking in and letting everyone know your results. Really appreciate. 😃

[@elrondmcbong467]

Pro tip, turn the bolt CCW until you feel a click and then the threads are alingned perfectly and you can safely turn the screw in.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Great tip!

[@kw2519]

People not doing that, keeps me in repair work at my job. Constantly fixing broken screws and bolts for semi conductor related parts.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup true. No one say anything 🤫🤫

[@Clearanceman2]

Put an ASIN water pump on and the existing OEM subaru belt will no longer go over the new water pump pulley. All marks are lined up. I'm going to try it your way. Thanks. I usually do it water pump pulley second to last. But will try it this way. It worked, thanks. I think I'll do it this way from now one even if sometimes the other way does work. This is going to be easier anyway.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Its my fav method on Subbies. Super fast accurate and easier 😀😀

[@MrCodCom]

Great video! 1 tip, (just for peace of mind) don't forget to torque all pulleys to spec.!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup good call!

[@DylanMorehouse]

Maybe one day I'll get the confidence to do this! I'll surely learn from your wonderful videos :))))))))))

[@EasyFixShaun]

You can do it! "Man made it, man can fix it"

[@bobdole870]

I used an eBay timing kit on a 4g63T many years ago. The tensioner failed immediately and blew up the engine. If it’s an interference engine, you really can’t beat OEM.

[@EasyFixShaun]

I agree with you. I have seen the same things happen many times. OEM is the only way to go for durability on a timing belt and all the pulleys that touch it 😀🔧🔧

[@leonmagnus00000]

OEM or Nothing. A guy in my country has a 2.0 STi doing over 700 2 years now and used genuine oem belt. Seen others used cheap belts and failed.

[@TaddVentures]

I just had an ebay oem aisin timing kit tentioner fail at 1 year old and 30000 miles because the tentioner leaked and failed and bent valves. Currently installing my new motor smh.

[@Nh60350]

excellent video for all subaru fans!!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks! 😀🔧

[@EdwardDowllar]

Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Excellent! No problem. Glad to help 😀🔧

[@Charlie-zo2nu]

this is good.. you can also have the 2 lower idlers off and you can get the belt on without fumbling with the tensioner.

[@EasyFixShaun]

yessir! Solves that problem completely 🎯

[@Alniemi]

Ive inspected my timing belt recently and it looks great. I have no idea when it was last changed. But in the last 5 days ive been towed twice! once for a fuel pump and once for a clutch cable. now im thinking i might do my timing preemptively

[@EasyFixShaun]

Oh man! That sucks. Hopefully you can get it all sorted out. Maintenance of the belt is always great idea and peace of mind. You will want to replace the water pump and all the idler gears and tensioner also while in there. If you do that, you won't need to open it up again for any of those reasons for 100k miles. Basically the next interval... I would also recommend the best belt. Subaru or Mitsubishi belts are best. Mitsuboshi belts come in the Aisin Timing Belt Kits. The aisin kits are great. If you go Subaru parts are usually purchased all separately. These are the ONLY part I will use. I hope that helps! I have seen nearly every other brand belt snap prematurely. Nearly every other brand kit fail in some other way with idler pulley bearings or tensioners or water pumps fail. They will never make 100k miles. Subaru belts and parts are by far the best. Anyways.... Don't cheap out and learn the hard way. Get the good stuff only 😃🔧

[@Alniemi]

@@EasyFixShaun oh yeah I’m going OEM if I can find it for sure, and I’m replacing EVERYTHING I can reach once I’m in there, including all the oil seals on the front of the engine, I’ve definitely got some oil seepage coming out the bottom of the timing cover!!!

[@EasyFixShaun]

@@Alniemi Always best to do it the right way like you are planning 😃🔧

[@chrisboyd4433]

Take a spring clamp or large paper binder clamp to hold the belt on the sprockets at the correct spot as you thread it.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Good idea 😃🔧

[@chrisboyd4433]

@@EasyFixShaun I'm doing head gaskets on my 2007 Forester this week. The head gaskets and timing belt went on today, engine back in the car tomorrow.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Nice work! 😀🔧

[@tonyrowe1455]

I really appreciate your consice video. Very helpful for me and it started right up 😊

[@EasyFixShaun]

You are so welcome! That simple belt technique has helped me many times over the years 😃

[@kw2519]

Pro tip: use office clips the plastic and metal ones to hold the belt on the cam pulleys.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Great tip 😀😀

[@kw2519]

@@EasyFixShaun I learned that years ago from another suby nut,ales it so much easier

[@EasyFixShaun]

I love it! Little simple things like that are priceless 😃😃

[@shidukirider]

For anyone reading this, I am working on a 2005 forester a/t. The aisin timing belt kit wasn’t available. The a/t and manual transmission cars apparently have different water pumps, the m/t version was the only aisin kit available. I bought the continental kit. It came with an ntn tensioner, nsk idlers and one koyo idler, mitsuboshi belt. Only thing is it came with a gmb water pump, hopefully that will last. They also had an economy kit but I don’t know what brand of parts that would have in it.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Wont last, I would highly recommend getting Aisin or subaru OEM stuff.

[@shidukirider]

@@EasyFixShaun the parts in this kit are literally the exact oem parts that come on the factory engine minus the water pump, that is all

[@EasyFixShaun]

It's not the same. I have seen many many failures of all parts not oem or oem suppliers (aisin). If it fails- you will only do this once. Trust me bro it aint worth it. Don't substitute here.

[@shidukirider]

@@EasyFixShaun I get what your saying and the only thing subbed is the water pump which I wasn’t too happy about. It’s literally a ntn tensioner that has a Japanese bearing, all the other rollers are koyo or ntk also Japanese which is exactly what Subaru will sell you. Mitsuboshi belts are also made in Japan. Aisin kits don’t come with aisin rollers. They are ntk koyo nsk with ntn tensioner. So unless you buy the parts off amazon, they are exactly the same parts minus the water pump, if it leaks later then it will get a Subaru pump I wasn’t sure what they were going to supply when I got it. It’s N/a forester so no big deal. My son’s wrx has an aisin kit sitting here because it was available but not for the forester a/t

[@kenballinger4087]

My Gates belt just failed after 60K. So I bought the Aisin kit this time and am checking for bent valves

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ouch! I hope they aren't bent. Sometimes you get lucky with it. That is why i wouldn't use anything other than OEM or Aisin.

[@RazorPiggie]

that was a great, very detailed step by step video. thanks!!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thank you! You're welcome, I am glad it was helpful! 😃😃

[@beef539]

Hello- great video. I have a 2006 forester that has just turned 97000 kilometres. I runs perfect but I’m wondering about the timing belt. I’ve taken the small side cover off and it looks good- no cracks and it seems to be pliable. My concern is the age and years of heat and cold. What do you think about changing just the belt (genuine Subaru) and leave the idlers and water pump.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Usually belts are good for say 8 years or 105k miles, which ever comes first it will be due for replacement. Nothing wrong with replacing just the belt. I have seen idlers fail between the next interval so that's why i usually do it all while i have it apart. But, inspect them and make sure they are good while there and you could be ok 😀

[@beef539]

I have now pulled the front cover off and done a close inspection. I’m going to change the belt and the one idler (bottom LH side- blue colour-KOYO ) It rolls smooth but it’s loose, almost sloppy feeling. Thank you for the reply

[@EasyFixShaun]

@@beef539 Excellent! No problem glad to help. 😃

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Update: Hey, hope you're doing good. I just pulled the covers off the Forester. Everything looks Brandywine NEW. Tension pulley has no signs of leakage. The belt is Mitsubishi, and all pullies are Japan. Everything including the inside of the covers is really clean. I'm debating whether I should even replace anything. My concern was a 1 - 2 second rattle on a cold start. Can I get your thoughts? BTW, the crank bolt was barely tight. Thanx in advance.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Hey! If everything looks new it probably is new. Sounds like you have the right parts in there! Might not be a bad idea to inspect everything and double check. If the pulley bolt wasn’t tight it could be an indication things weren’t done right right or rushed. If you are that far into it you could remove the belt and spin all of the idler pulleys by hand to make sure the bearings are perfect. The Cogged idler bearing especially goes bad if it isn’t good quality. The rattle on start up could be a loose crank pulley. It could also be piston slap. Piston slap is annoying but will last forever with no issues. That’s probably the most likely cause after the pulley. Lastly it could be a rod pin or something weird inside the motor. Time will usually tell with that stuff. But the symptoms don’t line up with that. I would say the loose pulley or piston slap. Nice job checking everything out!

[@matthewwilkinson6447]

Worked just like you showed in the vid. So cool great vid

[@EasyFixShaun]

Excellent I am glad it worked good. Seems to be the best method to me so far. I have tried many. They all work, but this one seems really easy 😃🔧

[@michellek.5775]

Nice video. You're right about the quality Japanese parts.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks a lot man. I learned the hard way. Trying to pass it along 😃🔧

[@bennyreyes1877]

NICE AND EASY EXPLANATION 👍

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thank you glad to help 🔧 😃

[@malcolmh5736]

Thanks! My mechanic changed timing belt and tensioners (all OEM) and only a week or 2, it jumped 5 teeth in bank 1 and bent related valves. How on Earth could this have happened? Only thing I can possibly conceive is it wasn’t tensioned right? or maybe tensioners not bled? I’m perplexed. I’m also assuming the mechanic needs to cover costs for this. He’s had it 4 days and no answers yet

[@EasyFixShaun]

That sucks. Im sure there is a reason and it will all make sense eventually ☹️

[@michaelkajer6713]

Is the Aisin timing belt any good? I noticed you said the other aisin parts are, but what about the timing belt?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup Aisin is good. They are an oem manufacturer and their belts are actual oem quality. Same with the tensioners, idler pulleys, and water pump if you get the full kit which is always best. With the component kit you will not need to open it up for 105k miles, when the belt is due for replacement again 😃

[@chris002able]

Only thing is those CAM pulleys could be slipping, you should take the valve covers off and check that the cams are aligned too

[@EasyFixShaun]

The sprockets are keyed with a dowel pin to the camshaft and can only be installed one way. Although the left and right sprockets are different, so you want to make sure you don't mix those up 😃🔧

[@matthewmolina642]

Awesome video. Is there any reason why this engine does not have a belt guide above the crank?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Automatic transmissions don't have the guide most times. Manual transmission only to protect against engine braking belt skips at the crank 😃

[@matthewmolina642]

@@EasyFixShaun I just found that out with research. Thank you for confirming. I'm working on an auto at the moment and was afraid someone didn't put it back on and I needed to wait for the dealer to order one.

[@EasyFixShaun]

No prob! 😃

[@samokidam8306]

The video is amazing! Regarding the Timing Belt itself "Subaru or Mitsuboshi only" I would say that you can't go wrong with Continental also. Besides that - Do you have 2008 Hatckback EL15 Service Manual by any chance? Thanks 😊

[@EasyFixShaun]

I have seen a lot of belts break including continental well before 100k. Subaru and Mitsuboshi belts (come in Aisin timing kits) Usually can be pushed to 120-130k. I don't recommend that ever. Its not worth it but I have seen it done. I like to replace all idlers and water pump and tensioner with Subaru or Aisin. Nearly guarantees that the timing cover will not need to come off for 100k except for other engine repairs. I don't have any manuals. Ebay maybe? 😃🔧

[@mindthependulum6245]

On the left cam (driver’s side) one of the 5 spokes has an arrow on it. Not too far from that on the edge of the cam wheel, there is an indentation line that looks nice and factory. There are paint lines nearby too, but I suspect those were from previous repairs that involved reinstalling the same timing belt. My question, is do I use the carrot on one spoke of the cam wheel, or the small but nice line indented at the edge of the cam wheel?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sorry for the delay. Use the marks on the edge of the wheel just like the video and you should be good 😃

[@akboy4588]

What a catch you made😂

[@EasyFixShaun]

Backyard mechanic intuition 😂😂🤌

[@manauryreyes7262]

Amazing Video!! Thank You for this!

[@EasyFixShaun]

My Pleasure! Glad you liked it 😃🔧

[@ameliamnicol]

Hey, that was neat! I'd never actually seen that done before.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks a lot. It works quite well for stubborn cam pulley bolts 😃🔧🔧

[@ameliamnicol]

@@EasyFixShaun And those tensioner pulleys, too? :)

[@clay1671]

Great video can this be done with the engine in the car ?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yes, absolutely. No problem. I just showed it engine out, to make viewing easier 😃🔧

[@IsaacLusiwo-jv6gs]

Thank you for teaching us

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks for watching! Anytime buddy 😀

[@marks1994]

Am I correct in assuming that the white lines on the new timing belt only match up when you are first installing them? I did quite a few revolutions with my breaker bar and the notches on the two cams and crank gear line up at 12 o'clock every other revolution, but the white alignment lines on the belt never all matched up at 12 o'clock again no matter how many times I spin the engine. I think I have it on correctly using your method and some binder clips to hold the belt in place..

[@EasyFixShaun]

Correct! The marks on the sprocket are the only marks that line up every revolution. Marks are in the belt are for easier timing belt verification on installs. You should always turn engine over a few revolutions after install to verify marks are perfect on the engine sprockets 😀

[@Creedfanatix-LS]

Does it really matter where the timing belt marks are as long as the pulley timing marks are set correctly?

[@EasyFixShaun]

🎯 Correct. The belt marks are just for reference as an aid to getting everything all lined up. New Oem belts come with the marks. You don't need the marks at all. they are just nice to have. You can also make your own marks on the belt before you remove it, if you want to reuse it. I find that helpful and it helps with peace of mind. As long as the belt has the correct amount of teeth and is the correct part number, only the sprocket marks matter 😃

[@Creedfanatix-LS]

@@EasyFixShaun Thanks so much!!😎

[@Checklight66]

Nice work, Thank you

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thank you too! 😀😀

[@thesetruths1404]

Hi. I have an ej18 in a 1995 Impreza that I paid to have timing kit done 6 months ago. I want to visually check it now to be sure I don't have bad valve timing because my #2 and #4 cylinders only have 75/78psi compression. I don't have any issues except weak power uphill and higher speeds. Is there a way for me to visually check the timing with removing the timing belt covers? Using spark plug holes and maybe a small camera too, at most? Thanks!

[@EasyFixShaun]

You can do it several ways. Checking timing on these motors is easy if you take crank pulley off, you can then remove the front timing covers and check all the marks on cam and crank sprockets. Verify its perfect and go from there. If you need to change it you can do it right there 😀🔧

[@thesetruths1404]

​@@EasyFixShaunCan my son check it in the parking lot of his apartments? An easier way than removing the crank pulley?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup usually there is a crank pulley mark on the cover so you can line up TDC without pulling the main cover. So you will need to look for that. Once lined up, there is an inspection hole on the passenger side cover usually that you can remove to check marks inside with a mirror and light. Drivers side cam cover can be removed usually with a couple 10mm head bolts to inspect its marks. That is the procedure for like 2000ish and up. The 1995 Model should be comparable.

[@jackfortunati9453]

So, for every revolution of the crankshaft, these camshafts revolve 2x, yes? I lined all three marks (NOT arrows) up, removed one idler, and bazoing...the lefthand cam spun around. So how the heck do I know how to time that left-hand cam now that it slipped? It could be 1 of two combinations, right?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sometimes a cam will slip like that on any timing belt system. I would start over and just retime all sprockets again. The left cam sprocket should have its mark on the face of the cam and that mark lines up with the head seam. Does that help? If you have a new belt with matching timing marks on it that always helps with verifying everything is lined up perfectly before you pull the tensioner pin.

[@jackfortunati9453]

@@EasyFixShaun I was confused by the 2x versus 1x revolution thing-right-as you say just line it up again. Logically, a dot on a ccam sprocket will be in the exact same position relative to camshaft no matter how many times you turn it. That the crankshaft mark allows you to “park” the pistons is nice.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Opps sorry forgot to touch on that. The cams spin 1/2 speed of the crank. So crank goes around 2 times for every cam revolution.

[@fighttheswine]

You almost took that wrench to the lips 😂

[@EasyFixShaun]

ouch! I don't wear a mouth guard, but maybe I should 😂

[@fighttheswine]

@@EasyFixShaun trust me I been there 🤦🤣🤣🤣

[@EasyFixShaun]

yup I bet 😂

[@seshachary5580]

very educative and tips are great. thank you regards

[@EasyFixShaun]

So nice of you 😀

[@DieselMech]

there’s no shot this belt fits this car. I’ve been fitting mine for 7 hours now

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sorry you were having trouble. Any luck sorting it all out?

[@juanCamposCastillo-j8b]

I have moved the left and right Cam Sprocket with my hand, by mistake, My question is, how can I fix the problem , or reverse the problem..in order to syncronize the timing on my Forester 09, 2.5.. manual trans...... Help..and thanx ..JC

[@EasyFixShaun]

You should be able to move back into position with the marks on the camshaft sprockets and then install the belt like in the video. You may need to carefully turn the sprockets with a 17mm wrench. Don't use a Racket and socket because the sprocket and turn to far with the valve spring pressure on it. A Wrench will help you stabilize the sprocket from slipping when moving it into position. Does that help?

[@backwoodslunatic2615]

I was tempting todo the water pump and belt but I forgot the crank spins 2 times and the cams 1 time. Does cylinder number one have to be all the way to the top or the bottom?? Dumb question I know 1996 Impreza 2.2 sohc

[@EasyFixShaun]

Subaru does a really cool thing. If you line up all of their marks on the crank shaft and the camshaft, the pistons will all be half way up/down in the cylinder! This keeps you from bending valves if a cam ever slips for any reason. The pistons are all far enough down that valve contact with pistons is impossible as long as the crank sprocket is lined up. One of the few manufactures that do this and it is absolutely brilliant. At first it seems like a little bit of weird way for them to do it, until you realize why they did it. So....if you remove a spark plug and bring cylinder #1 to TDC, that will not work to time a subaru engine. Use the marks on the sprockets only 😃🔧

[@JoseQuervo-pk4kk]

If my timing belt broke while driving with an '01 outback with the 2.5L motor in it but the cam shafts both will still spin and all is it possible i didnt bend my valves? Im car-less right now and i dont trust my mechanical skills enough to do a whole rebuild so im wondering if i might be good if i just line it all up like in the video and throw it all back together or if id be just wasting my time / making things worse of in the long run?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yes. I always try lining up another good belt and fixing pully's and starting the engine. Nothing to loose. If damage is done its already done and you cant undo it. But....most times, with both interference and non-interference engines, fixing the broken belt is all that is needed. 🤞🤞

[@JimmyKnottts]

So I just had to buy a new block am I following the firing order 1st top dead piston the valves should be closed same thing with piston number 2 for the 2nd head then just put it back to 1st dead top and give head 2 a turn and line every up it’s a sohc

[@EasyFixShaun]

That can work. The best way for me is to use the marks Subaru provides on the cam and crank pulleys though. Using those marks actually puts all four pistons in the middle of the cylinders, making it impossible to bend a valve on accident. Its a genius idea for once from a manufacturer. For me, i only use top dead center on these engines for valve adjustment on the number 1 cylinder. Then i rotate to top dead center of the next cylinder in the firing order, and so on, and so on. Just personal preference for me. Timing belts can be done the way you are doing it though of course, and on most its the only way because of where the marks are placed on the pulleys. I do find it incredibly easy to time a Subbie using the marks and method in the video. I could almost do it blindfolded 😂😉😀🔧🔧

[@EasyFixShaun]

Did you buy a new block from Subaru? That is a really good way to go about engine repair on this motor and is fairly reasonable cost, all things considered.

[@mihali9562]

hey if im tearing down on 2006 impreza’s 2.5i and the crank is lined up perfect but both my cams are opposite of being lined up

[@EasyFixShaun]

Did the engine run fine before teardown? If so you may be looking at the incorrect marks. There are several marks on the cam pulley's sometimes and that can be confused for the actual marks. Did you get it figured out?

[@blobbilly557]

The only thing I would do different is using the impact at all..these Subaru threads are hella weak. I would just use an extension on the torque wrench

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup. I agree. I don't why these bolts hex heads strip so easily. I would never use anything but a ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench if thats your thing for breaking loose. For sure use a torque wrench to tighten 😀🔧🔧

[@bensautocrusades2001]

Question my timing belt kit and water pump were replaced 2 years ago and I’m not sure if the guy did it with the oem parts you recommended : soon since I’m a lot more mechanical will be doing head Subaru gaskets should I buy a new timing Subaru kit if he didn’t do oem ?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Cool. Yup I would replace all timing parts with Subaru or an Aisin kit. Piece of mind of mind is worth a lot. After that you should be good for 105k miles. Make sure you have your heads machined flat, (surfaced) so you get a good durable seal. They only leak when the heads are no longer flat. They twist over time from heat cycles. Once they leak and are machined they usually stay flat forever after that. Engine blocks never seems to have that problem on Subaru, it's all in the heads.😃🔧

[@bensautocrusades2001]

Yes I’ll be having my heads machined I was also wondering should I have them they replace the valves while at it ?

[@EasyFixShaun]

You could do that. At the very least you should have the machine shop pressure check them. Would not hurt to rebuild. But, depends how deep you want to go. Most people just go after the leaking gasket problem😃🔧

[@bensautocrusades2001]

@@EasyFixShaun That makes sense I’ll definitely see what they say at the machine shop and go from there I don’t want to go to far but just enough I don’t have to take it all apart for along time

[@EasyFixShaun]

@@bensautocrusades2001 Either way can be good and work fine. I know what you mean. Usually if they ran perfect but just had a leak, they are ok. But, the machine shop should decide for best results 😃🔧

[@RobbieAurie]

29 lb ft for the torque on the pulleys and tensioner!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Nice!

[@thesilkkradle9558]

Very helpful.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Im glad that helped out! 😀🔧

[@lordjeffdorber]

I can’t seem to get my crank shaft turned to match up with the timing marks, any tips?

[@EasyFixShaun]

How far off is it? How many teeth roughly?

[@lordjeffdorber]

@@EasyFixShaun About 7 I believe? Basically 90 degrees to the left of the vertical marks. The vehicle is a 2003 legacy

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ok. Does the crank not turn like its stuck?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Fill me in a little bit about how it got to be 7 teeth off please. I need more info.

[@joancostello]

Good job

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks glad you like it 😀

[@aleksihaapasaari]

I just bought a BOSCH belt for my EJ201, am I screwed

[@EasyFixShaun]

Hard to say. No experience on Bosch. But I've seen many others break. On Subaru i only use oem or aisin. It's worth it. When they break, bad things happen. I've never seen aisin or oem break before 120-130k miles.

[@aleksihaapasaari]

@@EasyFixShaun alright well I'll just change it sooner than I need to in the future, I'm not gonna throw a new belt into trash

[@EasyFixShaun]

I don't blame you. I have trust issues with anything other than oem. Aisin is the only brand that help up other than that for me. It's just not worth it. I have seen many failures below 30k miles on anything other than oem. Put oem on it and forget about it 😃

[@62Cristoforo]

I just returned a $550 Gates timing belt and water pump replacement kit for my ‘05 Forester, 2.5X. All three bearings are made in China. Not interested in cheap, inferior Chinese parts, especially for the timing belt.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup. Aisin kits or Subaru kits only... or it will fail. Been there too. Is a pain to send back but worth it. Bad things usually always happen with economy kits 😃🔧

[@62Cristoforo]

The quality of materials and workmanship is vastly inferior in most Chinese made parts, items, things, ideas especially when compared to Japanese, German or Korean. I blame their communist system of governance. Progress is stifled by unnecessary bureaucracy, so they resort to counterfeiting ideas and designs from the west.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yes! Japanese owned. American Made. Parts are made in Japan.

[@EasyFixShaun]

I think low quality parts use a strategy of low prices and high warranty claims to fool a lot of people into thinking they are high quality. ...Including myself 😃 When in doubt go to the OEM parts. They have a high incentive to make parts that actually last through the warranty period. ...Although, they are getting good at making them fail just after. Can anyone guess which ones do this? And which do not? 😉

[@ronsereda4242]

@@EasyFixShaun "can anyone guess which ones do this"? Sounds like a leading question, i would be interested in the answer. As far as oem replacement parts quality being better I believe that may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Installed an Asin timing belt kit on a Kia. One of the new idler pulleys failed at 40,000 km (so Asin kits gave their issues as wel). Bearing siezed causing the belt to slip off the idler but did so with a twist. With unbelieveable good luck the twist kept the belt tight even though it was no longer on the pulley.. Shredded half the belt and beat several grooves through the plastic cover ($80 !!) But the belt never slipped even one tooth and was still in time. Looking on rockauto for replacement and having just had an Asin component fail early I was initially drawn to the Gates belt, because of long ago history of decent quality, but kept remembering Ivan of Pine Hallow Auto Diagnostic going into some detail about calling the Gates office to express dissatisfaction with Gates sending all China components in their kit. On the rockauto info page I could zoom in enough to see "made in china" and a part number clearly on the Gates belt. So ordered all Kia components from a local Kia dealer and what do you suppose was in the Kia kit but the exact Gates China belt with the same part number but with the official Kia name and logo added and at double the price of the identical Gates belt (without the kia logo) that was on rockauto. So i would now say that Kia OEM replacement parts are now of questionable quality. The new Kia tensioner and idler looked ok. Interesting enough was the initual tensoner that came on the engine from the factory was clearly marked Gates but the replacement kia tensioner and idler were a Korean brand.

[@malkeyatsingh4312]

nice tutorial brother. can you help me this timing kit part number for forester 2004 X 2.5 ? i stay in Qatar. peace

[@EasyFixShaun]

2004 Forester X 2.5L Turbo (4 camshafts)- AISIN TKF-004 😃🔧

[@umustbbornagainActs2-38]

How much does the dealership charge for this service?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Depends on some factors. Car parts costs, labor rate, and labor amount. If you are just replacing the belt it's cheapest. If you replace all the idler pulleys and tensioner and water pump while you have the covers off, you will have the least chance of problems in the next 105k miles, but cost is more. Usually if you replace all the wearables like that you won't touch it again until the next service interval, if they are OEM or Asin parts ONLY. Any other parts will usually fail before the next interval from what I have seen. If the repair is a cut and dry replacement with no rust incidental costs or other unexpected costs, a cost range Guess would be 600-1200 roughly. I hope that helps 😃

[@MrNanah38]

No mention of how much to tightening setting, good video nevertheless.

[@EasyFixShaun]

This belt system uses a hydraulic tensioner and it sets tension automatically once the pin is pulled on the tensioner. Just bolt on the tensioner and it does the rest of the work 😃

[@PHOTOGRASPER]

can this be done easily with the motor in the car? Is it an interference motor?

[@EasyFixShaun]

It is a an interference motor. I do them all the time with the motor in the car. The one in the video just happened to be removed and it made filming much easier.

[@PHOTOGRASPER]

@@EasyFixShaun thanks, man! You rock! Considering a used purchase.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Great cars overall! They have their issues no doubt. But you get what you put into them. Use The best parts. Buy the most rust free model you can find. Usually rust is the main thing that kills them where I live. Keep them full of oil at all times. They characteristically burn oil. Low oil kills the motors. 😀 If you kill the motor put another in. Great cars. 😀

[@erickamekonapeper4007]

Jeez 😢please feel free to actually remove the nobby wheel and put the belt on correct and force the pulley at the angle necessary to reach the threads and pry it up to install. It’s super super easy and don’t forget to clip your timing belt to the cam pulley to hold it in place. It’s more difficult to try doing this like he did. For whatever reason he doesn’t do it the recommended way but honestly it’s better that way and safer. 🤦🏻‍♂️❤️🖖🏼🇺🇸

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks! There's no wrong way to put on any belt. Only easier ways and harder ways 😀🔧

[@DKSE123]

29 Ft Lbs For Idlers & Tensioner

[@EasyFixShaun]

Thanks for the tip 😃😃

[@DKSE123]

@@EasyFixShaun No Problem

[@gregb77]

I've just done my head gaskets and had heads reconditioned, everything has been moved. Is there any chance to be 180° out if the timing marks line up to put the new belt on?

[@EasyFixShaun]

The crank and cam timing gears are “keyed” to the shafts. There is no adjustment between the two. As long as the timing marks are used it should be timed. Do you have the SOHC or DOHC?

[@gregb77]

Sohc

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ok. It’s less likely you can mess up the timing on a sohc. Those are fairly straight forward. You may need to go back to basics to make sure you don’t chase your tail on this one. You need four things for combustion. Timing. Compression. Fuel/air. And spark. I would make sure the timing belt marks line up. If the engine is in the car already.... does it crank over normally? Does is sound normal? Do a quick compression test and make sure you have proper compression and timing. That takes care of two items. Then you can track down the spark and fuel. Also make sure you have the original crank sprockets and camshaft sprockets for your year engine and computer. They need to be the ones that came off the vehicle. There are differences between years that would affect when the spark happens. The all will fit and are similar looking between some of the years. I hope that helps. It’s probably some small weird problem from haveing it all apart. Take you time. Check everything. Stick with it. You will get it. 😀

[@johnnyhernandez1542]

What Year is that Subie motor from?

[@EasyFixShaun]

2011 Forester EJ253 motor I believe. Is that what you have?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Okay, just for shits and grins, I called Advance Auto and asked specifically for the MITSUBISHI belt. They tell me "YES, it's in stock" , I even gave them the part #. I drive half an hour and they tried to sell me a DAYCO which in turn was more expensive by 10 and some change. They had to order the Mitsubishi, ... it won't be in until Friday. I used to love to wrench, not so much anymore.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ah crap I’m sorry man. Well at least the extra effort will make it last longer. I’ve seen a lot of motors damaged from off “comparable” belts breaking. With any other belts it usually happens somewhere between 40 and 60k miles. It’s worth the wait.

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun And THANK YOU, sir, for KNOWING is half the battle. I dig the AWD, for I live on top of a hill that most 4wd fear to tread ... like my `02 Ram. XD Lemme tellya, that Subaru is effortless.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Subarus really kick butt man! They are so underrated by non owners. I am a little fearful of the CVT issues they are having. I can't wait to own the direct injection motors they may be coming out with someday soon in most of the vehicles. Currently only BRZ has it.

[@juanenrique752]

Correa es de 211 o 223 dientes ?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Este cinturón tiene 223 dientes 😃 (223 teeth)

[@Spacegoat92]

Great! I just fitted my Gates belt kit and now i keep hearing about how crap they are!

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sorry to hear that. Ya I would go in again and put a Subaru brand on if you want zero issues with the belt. I have seen all others break prematurely 😃🔧

[@Spacegoat92]

@@EasyFixShaun Man that's crazy, never had any dramas with my gates belts in the past. How the hell are they still in business??

[@EasyFixShaun]

Sometimes they do ok and make the full 105k interval. But not very often. I would never use one in my car or anyones else's car. Bad things happen. With certain parts only Oem will do and timing belts are in that category. Aisin is acceptable and good on Japanese cars also. I wouldn't use ANYTHING else. Even if it had a bazillion mile warranty- its junk 😂🔧🔧

[@Spacegoat92]

@@EasyFixShaun Do they snap or do they just wear out prematurely?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Snap/break before the next interval.

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

UPDATE: 2/23/2020. I'm going over all the fluid checks and replaced the trans filter and fluid. I just got back from an hour ride, (BIG DIFFERENCE) pulled on a level surface, and again, went through the gears. It took me 3-4 times to get what I THINK is an accurate reading, a smidge below the hash mark. Now, I have a 2002 Ram 1500, and I have found this ALSO to be a pain to get an accurate reading. I am aware that you can check the fluid when it's cold, but supposedly it's better to check hot. I appreciate your knowledge, HMB when you have time. THANX

[@EasyFixShaun]

Nice man! Yup I prefer fine tuning the fluid level also when fluid is at operating temp. New fluid can improve shifting quit a bit. Is that where you notice the difference?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun Yes, definitely. It was starting to get that herky-jerky shift. I'm sure this is the first time it's been changed, the fluid was very dark, but I was relieved to see no debris. The filter took some effort to remove, I've done plenty of oil changes in my time, but I started to worry I might damage the transmission. I'm thinking that ominous sound on cold start is a lifter btw. I hope you have some in-depth videos about this. Anyway, thanx for your sharing your knowledge. I'm waiting for the water to drain from my driveway so I can change the front and rear differential fluids. HAVE A GREAT DAY

[@EasyFixShaun]

Nice! Ya some Subarus will develop a lifter tick or have a little piston slap on cold start up. Especially once they have 150k miles or more on them. I think the book recommends adjusting the valves every timing belt service. I can not remember. I don't do it usually unless the cylinder heads have been removed. Is your transmission filter a spin on filter?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun Yes, it has the 2.5L EJ 253 engine. 2006 Forester.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ok! I know that motor well. I wish I had a valve lifter adjustment video. I don't but I will at some point now that I see a need. I probably won't be of any use for you on that right now. But if you attempt it, it isn't to bad to do at all. You just need some feeler gauges and remove the valve covers.

[@mtsanchez27]

Does the engine needs to be out to do this job?

[@EasyFixShaun]

No this can all be done in the vehicle. Engine was just removed for head gaskets and timing belt demonstration 😃

[@mtsanchez27]

@EasyFixShaun great, thanks for answering!!!🫡

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

UPDATE: Well, the inevitable happened. I got a real loud knock, so I took my stethoscope and it's knocking from the top right side. I can feel it where the "EJ253" is located, like it's ready to pop through. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild this engine or get one that's already rebuilt. I'm not a wrench but I feel comfortable enough to give it a shot. I've been studying these EJ253's and they don't seem all that complicated. I value your knowledge, so what are YOUR thoughts? Thanx in advance.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Is the car running really rough also? The camshafts weirdly break in half sometimes on the right (passenger side). Pop the valve cover off and check it by turning the engine crankshaft pulley by hand (disconnected battery only). If that is the case, replace that cylinder head with a used one on ebay. Or a rebuilt one from autozone. The autozone rebuilds have been pretty good lately.

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun Good to hear from you. No it's not idling ruff, just major knock on the top right.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ok, Well I would pull the valve cover and attempt to pinpoint where the noise is coming from if you think it could be valvetrain noise. If not, get another motor. Thats the options anyway I would start exploring. I hope that helps. 😩

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun Thanx for getting back to me. Yes, I think I'm going for another engine since I've got it apart and noticed MANY bolts are gone. I did some research on where this thing came from in Kentucky. The previous owners are elderly and there's a butt load of maintenance bills from their closest dealership. I'm going to dig in a little further to see what I can see. Again, I appreciate your knowledge and I'm going to keep you and everyone else updated. Ya know what they say; " The more you know ..." PEACE

[@whoknows1631]

How do you rotate to camshafts to line up without a belt on?

[@EasyFixShaun]

I use a wrench on the center bolt of the sprocket. I think Subaru's are a 17mm. 😀🔧

[@whoknows1631]

@@EasyFixShaun Its already torqued tight though. I took the belt and pullies off first and then rotated the crank to position...:( woops

[@EasyFixShaun]

Im not sure what you mean. If the crank is lined up properly its tough to do any engine damage as all 4 pistons will be exactly half way in the cylinders. If you removed the cam sprockets and then moved the crank into position it is possible to damage valves by colliding them with the pistons. Does the motor feel stuck on any if the three sprockets?

[@whoknows1631]

@@EasyFixShaun much appreciated 😁 How do I remove the crank bolt without rotating the crank? Belt and pullies all still removed at this point...

[@sweetdjf]

@@whoknows1631 either a special crank pulley holder fom company23 or a jack handle over your ratchet sitting tight to the ground and turn your starter over for a half second while avoiding starting the engine

[@sokoleoko6539]

thank you

[@EasyFixShaun]

You are welcome! 😃

[@joesphschramm3754]

I have a foolish question. Is replacing the gaskets, timing belt and H²o pump the same on a manual transmission? Asking for a foolish friend that has tools and another car incase he messes something up on the DIY.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Exactly the same except the manual transmission has a retention plate bolt on at the crankshaft. The plate can be installed on automatics also but is not needed, it's used to prevent belt skip at the crank for engine braking that a manual transmission can provide 😃

[@balanashley5094]

Cant fix timing belt with my subaru Forester 9

[@EasyFixShaun]

Are you having trouble getting the belt installed?

[@balanashley5094]

@@EasyFixShaun yes, but now, my car gettin trouble crankshaft .

[@EasyFixShaun]

Ok. What is wrong with the crankshaft?

[@balanashley5094]

Tnx for ur support, now everyting good, i make a change crankshaft, it start Well now.

[@EasyFixShaun]

No problem. I’m glad you got your engine running 😀

[@georgewashington1106]

Yeah, you need to be careful with that tensioner bolt, because it's steel and you're bolting it into aluminum, and you don't want to strip those threads....so let me hit it with an air gun. That's dumb. Factory torque spec for that bolt, if I recall correctly, is only 18 ft/lb. Use a torque wrench, not an air gun.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Great tip! Giving good advise since 1776 😂

[@davidsmith37709]

Says the guy with wooden teeth. How are those holding up by the way?

[@georgewashington1106]

@@davidsmith37709 - Torqued to spec

[@EasyFixShaun]

When chopping cherry trees- chop to specs 😂

[@JonDoe-007]

I reckon you're not much of a torque wrench guy

[@EasyFixShaun]

I use torque wrenches 😃🔧

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

New belt doesn't have timing marks, just arrows. WTF?

[@EasyFixShaun]

The belt marks on the belt are useful but you don’t need them. You can use just the marks on the pulleys to time then engine. Once the belt is on and tensioner is all set, spin the crankshaft two full turns and double check all 3 pulley marks line up perfectly again. If they are still lined up you are good to go. 😃

[@EasyFixShaun]

What brand belt are you using?

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

@@EasyFixShaun It came in a kit I purchased off Amazon. It's supposedly Aisin sold by MNJWS-Fullautoparts. I looked up the pulleys and they come up Japan. The box says New (Made in China)

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

This kit had good reviews for the most part, one gentleman stated the water pump didn't quite fit, so he went out and bought the OEM. Thoughts? Thank you for the quick reply, I'm starting on this project today.

[@EasyFixShaun]

If there isn't a name on the belt I wouldn't use it. If it was a genuine Aisin kit the belt should always be a mitsuboshi brand belt which is excellent. You only want subaru oem or mitsuboshi belts only. In my experience all others will not make it to 100k miles for the next interval.

[@Derickmsafi]

I want to no subaru

[@EasyFixShaun]

Subarus are pretty great.

[@jthadcast]

aisin doesn't even make tbk or pumps for subarus anymore and the "quality" idlers are made by Koyo and NSK. you guys need to get over your China hate ... junk, it's what's for dinner.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Us "guys" are the ones that know what we are talking about. You are incorrect about Aisin. Any quality idler for a subaru comes with a made in japan logo on it. It is called, "Pay me now, or pay me later".

[@jthadcast]

@@EasyFixShaun you would know but i found none online, dealer part out only. (not even here www.aisinaftermarket.com/english/onlineparts.html ) new cars, used, dealers using all oem parts, if you were lucky you got 60k. they call them boxers cause they're always beating themselves up. we got the factory right here, so we see them still on the road but they paid again and again. shoddy warranty "fixes" so you pay and pay and pay. seems to me it's all the same if you're not checking them every 20k, why do you think they sell kits?

[@EasyFixShaun]

If you use the right parts for the belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump and belt, you won't have to remove the timing cover for 100k miles. Aisin lists a timing belt for every Subaru made up to 2012. After that they went to timing chains on the sohc 2.5L. That is the most widely used engine. A lot of people are price driven and will by cheap parts thinking they are same quality. That is where a lot of the timing component issues come from. The stock belt is recommended at 100k intervals. I have also seen stock belts go 130-150k and beyond. I wouldn't recommend that ever because they usually break by then. The aftermarket belts have trouble getting past 50-60k. There is a big difference in quality. Go for the good stuff, it will make a difference in the long run.

[@DrewDiddy7703]

jthadcast Aisin does make a Tensioner pulley, you can find them on Rockauto, Amazon, eBay, and quite a few other places online...you can also find other aftermarket tensioners much cheaper, but without that JAPAN stamping on the steel part of the assembly it can cost you an engine.

[@EasyFixShaun]

Good call Andy! Thanks man.

[@DKSE123]

Did you replace the head gaskets ? Just curious why engine was removed ?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Yup new head gaskets and cylinder head machining 😃

[@Subieej20]

​@@EasyFixShaunDoes that affect the timing marks?

[@EasyFixShaun]

Same timing marks. The tensioner will take up any slack from cylinder head machining 😃

[@phillysauto4724]

ok your missing the part of the tensioner and why did you pull the motor

[@EasyFixShaun]

Headgaskets