Subaru Timing Belt Replacement STEP-BY-STEP (SOHC 2.5L Subaru Legacy)

Step By Step Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement Procedure. Typically an $800+ job at a repair facility. ​ @Make It Easy Mechanic
Time Stamps:
00:00 Intro
00:18 Parts Needed
00:42 Tools Used
00:50 Timing Belt Removal Procedure
01:10 Splash Shield Removal
02:06 Serpentine Belt Removal
02:38 Radiator Removal
05:00 Stopper Rod Removal
05:20 Timing Cover Removal
05:36 Harmonic Balancer (Crankshaft Pulley) Removal
06:15 Air Intake Boot Removal
06:44 Throttle Body Removal
08:24 Aligning Timing Marks
09:00 Timing Belt Tensioner Removal
09:21 Thermostat
09:42 Water Pump Replacement
13:07 Timing Belt Installation
15:46 Timing cover Installation
16:14 Harmonic Balancer Installation
16:32 Throttle Body Installation
For the rest of the installation reverse the removal procedure
17:27 Conclusion
New Parts (Same or Similar):
(Please confirm with the seller if these parts fit YOUR vehicle)
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Tools used in this video:
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amzn.to/3rUpUq5 - thread-locker (locktite) medium strength
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amzn.to/3rUuxjX - Milwaukee Impact gun (2960-22 M18 Gen 2)
amzn.to/2QRaKor - Drive belt removal tool
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Make It Easy Mechanic, it cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Make It Easy Mechanic assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Make It Easy Mechanic recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Make It Easy Mechanic, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Make It Easy Mechanic.

[@salemkraidi3530]

Honestly, one if not the most useful tutorial in this subject, so clear voice instructions and straight to the point, your effort in taking this video is highly appreciated. 👍👍👍👍👍 thanks a lot.

[@tomekichiyamamoto2177]

I’m French, living in Japan, having a sub like. Your video is the clearest on that subject. Making sound easy, is not an easy task. You’re a teacher born.

[@Jedi_Luke]

Your channel deserves a million subscribers. You use a lot of things I do like swapping the bolts over. Excellent tutorial. 👍

[@zackattack3721]

I couldn’t get the belt on to save my life until u showed me to install the tensioner last…thank you!!!

[@JonathanGonzalez-me3vb]

this is the best video I’ve ever seen

[@ReddList]

Thank you so much for this mate, the fact you put in the time to find torque specs for everything is incredible, so many people just get it "tight" with an impact, but I'm not tryna grenade my engine😂 you're incredible dude, keep up the stellar work!

[@Bobcat9]

What an excellent demonstration, succinctly narrated and nice clear videography.

[@62Cristoforo]

Thread sealer and lock tite are good additional steps you don’t see in other tutorials on Suby timing belt replacements.

[@dipolguardiansbullmastiffp4145]

Amazing tutorial, thank you

[@roadsideangel]

Dude this video is amazing

[@luiseliplourde5745]

Good job

[@kanyonkelley5217]

Great video man thanks

[@calvink3081]

clean work and video

[@chemocastillo8494]

muchas gracias amigo thank you so much great video

[@laszynandriy]

Great job

[@Osiel640]

Great job bud.

[@thehungryhunter]

Excellent!

[@johnregan7125]

well done!

[@juliosdiy3206]

Awesome!

[@geoffjacobs267]

Is the axle nut the same diameter as the crankshaft screw hole? I didn't have one, so I had a terrible time removing the bolt after advancing the belt. And the timing is off, so I have to try again. But I need an axle nut first. Please advise. Thank you.

[@birgittjensen5142]

I think the rubber O ring on the timing tensioner bolt is just to keep the washer from falling off in transit and should be removed before inserting the bolt in place - otherwise when you torque up the bolt you will crush rubber between the washer and block ?

[@MakeItEasyMechanic]

When you remove the original tensioner - there's an oring on it, so I like to keep one on the new one too. There's a groove on the engine for the o-ring to fit in. But you're right - you dont have to have an O-ring there.

[@s2kdfitboy]

Thank you so much for this video. However, when installing back the crank pulley bolt, you said you put a thread sealer, but I notice on the bolt that its a loctite threadlock. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

[@MakeItEasyMechanic]

Yes, you're correct. I meant to say 'loctite'.

[@AllanWorks]

why did you pull the radiator? it can be done easily without removal.

[@geyser3445]

Doesn't look too difficult. I would have replaced the hoses too.

[@MrNyla90]

is it recommended to change water pump when you change timing belt?

[@MakeItEasyMechanic]

yes, definitely.

[@whoknows1631]

If I have already removed the timimg belt and pullies how to I rotate the camshafts into position?

[@harryharriott5192]

Isn't it a DOHC? I see two cams. Don't think it's an SOHC

[@MakeItEasyMechanic]

It's a single cam, one cam per bank. DOHC will have a total of 4 (2 cams on each side)

[@Bobcat9]

Your would see four cam shafts if it were dual. There are two because one SOHC runs the left side, the other, the right side. this is a boxer.