Subscribers Help Fix the Doors!! (and Chassis Cleanup) 1937 Chevy Master Deluxe Rat Rod | Part 27

[@speajo]

Persistence and good old yankee ingenuity are paying off for you. You’re doing a great job my friend.

[@joeharrington595]

Good job on the doors. You stayed with it and got it. A lot of work yes. The car will have a better ride with the engine set back twelve inches back on the front end.

[@MarekMakes]

I figured as much but as I’m learning as I go…. I feel nervous taking that on

[@stephenmoore8103]

Looking good, keep plugging along! My vote is to move the engine and transmission back in the chassis.

[@MarekMakes]

Well I tried a dry fit this weekend …. 😬 I think the writing is on the wall about moving it

[@rickcrusenberry7027]

Those cars weren’t built with the greatest of consistency to begin with. Then add 86 years and rust , chopping the top , and good ole fiberglass. You’re killing it bud. Can’t wait to see the final product.

[@MarekMakes]

👍🏼💪🏼

[@bigbellyrebuilds2778]

That was a challenge...

[@kennethlotzgesell4903]

I enjoy your build making great progress. One thing you can look into is cutting the frame. The S10 frame has a spot they is factory for putting different back halfs of frame together. I have a S10 frame under my 41 ford and that is what I did to move the front sections back.

[@MarekMakes]

Issue is wheelbase I had to lengthen the rear to get the S10 frame to match the Master body

[@miketodesco6915]

Hi, you should be able to find a video to show you how to strip out the harness and have the engine run with just 2 feeds, "always hot" and "key on hot" and of course plenty of grounding. Be cognizant of the fact that at some point you will want some gauges.

[@MarekMakes]

I have thought of that I still have the S10 gauge cluster and the harness connection for it … so I thought I could retro fit that in the original dash somehow

[@user-hy5bu3og1n]

With the body close to the ground open The door put a floor jack Underneath the door with a 2x4 with jack closest to The door handle it will tweak the door in the right direction that u want its an Old school Body man Trick

[@MarekMakes]

Nailed it !!

[@JustinPaul1st]

Some progress is better than no progress...so 10 points there...Being a budget build I suggest keeping the fuel injection system just remove what other electronics isn't required... As far as moving the engine back...do another dry fit with it in current position and see if its practical... them fit it 10 inches backward and see how practical that would be. Then you can make a decision from there...In current position you will save many man hours to focus on other stuff to move forward

[@MarekMakes]

Yeah it ran well and would be super convenient… but geeeeeez …. So much wiring to go through

[@user-hy5bu3og1n]

Awesome build bye the way !

[@MarekMakes]

Thanks

[@dominiqueeaster9249]

I would agree with one of the comments. I would take and mock it up 10 back. That would also give you better perspective of what kind of fab work you would have to do. Base your decision off that

[@MarekMakes]

Yeah that is a good idea before fully committing

[@chilledoutinoz2425]

HI THERE, HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM AUSTRALIA, AND THE PROGRESS THAT IS HAPPENING. RECENTLY I DID A HOTROD BUILD, BOUGHT A 1928 STUDEBAKER 4 ? DOOR SEDAN WHICH WAS MISSING THE FRONT R.H.S. DRIVER SIDE DOOR..IN MY BUILD I MADE 2 DOOR PICKUP OUT OF A 4 DOOR SEDAN. NEW ROOF, NEW REAR CAB SECTION, NEW SILLS, RE-MADE B PILLARS, GUTTERS JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING REPLACED NEW ( HOME MADE ). ALSO TRANSFERRED THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR TO THE DRIVER DOOR, AND HAVING TO CHANGE HINGES FROM SUICIDE DOOR TO NORMAL OPENING DOOR.. SO SO MANY CHANGES AND ADD ONS, SO MANY DELAYS AND FRUSTRATION. AFTER WATCHING YOUR DELAYS IN THE VIDEO, SIMILAR / SAME TO WHAT I WENT THRU ... A FEW WORDS OF ADVICE..( I HAVE BEEN THERE DONE SIMILAR/SAME TO YOUR WORK ) - .... Put the body back on the frame .....- WHAT I DID WAS - BOLT THE BODY TO WHERE IT SHOULD BE ON THE CHASSIS ( FRAME ), AND THEN ATTACH AND ALIGN THE DOORS AND SILLS ETC. ATTACH YOUR B PILLAR WITH TACK WELDS ( ALL YOUR WELDS ACCESSIBLE TO ZIP CUT ) I STARTED WITH THE DRIVER DOOR FITTED WITH EXCELLENT GAPS, THEN FITTED THE B PILLAR NEXT TO DRIVER DOOR, AND WENT FROM THERE... ALL HELD WITH ONLY TACK WELDS..UNTILL U R HAPPY WITH THE OUTCOME..AND YES, IT IS HARDER TO WORK AROUND A FRAME, ENGINE + TRANS ETC. HOPE THIS HELPS..CHEERS FROM CHILL FROM DOWN UNDER IN OZ.. ( WE ALL HAVE OUR OWN WAYS OF DOING JOBS, MINE DEFINITELY WORKED FOR ME...)

[@MarekMakes]

Thank you so much for the long post !!! I appreciate it !!! Sounds like you had quite the project!!!

[@tpmalu]

good job man😃

[@MarekMakes]

Thanks 😁

[@flatrat48]

i know its a lot of work, but in the long run moving that motor must be done. i guarantee you if you don't when you get to the final fitment of radiator and whatever else you are going to have problems. i have been there and done that. just my opinion. nothing worse then avoiding work and then having to undo everything and move it back in the end. if ur hell bent on leaving it really really really think it thru. keep in mind maintenance and replacing parts down the road.

[@MarekMakes]

You def can see the future … I tried yesterday… you can watch me fail in the next video …

[@bigbellyrebuilds2778]

Halfass Kustoms Has some past videos on how He wires in some older cars to new chassis .

[@MarekMakes]

He is a hero of mine … crazy talent

[@cliffroberts181]

I would just get it up and running in the time you have left and address the problem after when you are not on a deadline

[@MarekMakes]

I’m at least going to try and put the front fenders on as it is and see how it goes

[@SeansNewWorld]

Being on the time crunch with limited amounts of time to work on it, leave the wiring for now and same with the engine. Those are things that you can do after the show. Stay focused on getting the floor done and not creating more work for now.

[@MarekMakes]

Thanks for the input !!

[@GregoryBamber]

Toss all the wiring and start from scratch and wire up what you need. You'll be better off in the long run.

[@MarekMakes]

I have been looking at stand alone harnesses and found some but if I keep what I have I can use the steering column (light controls/turn signals) and also try and run the stock gauges

[@bigblockkings1031]

Good fix on the door. Gaps can be fixed. You have got a lot on your plate right now with time constraints but I you can do the moving of the engine and trans back. Now the wiring and shit would give me nightmares. Just a question, can you do things to get it to the show and then go back and redo some stuff? Either way you're doing a hell of a job doing that by yourself.

[@MarekMakes]

Yeah I have considered that to save time Would likely require some re arranging of the floor and maybe a trans tunnel when it gets moved back … but that can always be a “future me” problem 🤷‍♂️

[@Keifsanderson]

Dude you are eating that elephant. Every bite is one bite closer.

[@MarekMakes]

Hahaha Oh I know it ….

[@MarekMakes]

“There’s nothing left on that plate but gristle and fat!”

[@flatrat48]

Not fail, learn. Sometimes "by fire" is our best lessons learned. This is going to be such a bitchen rod. Stay at era