Surfing on Kelly Slater's Machine-Made Wave | The Backstory | The New Yorker

[@AJ-hk6zb]

Kelly never meant for this to replace the ocean, and it doesn't, it's just a super awesome place to train, or go to commercially once they start opening public ones. As a surfer I think it's totally rad; and it will never replace the magic of the ocean.

[@dereknorman2762]

Jeremiah Alphonsus bruh, ion think its that deep. A wave machine has nothing to do with transgender stuff

[@JeremiahAlphonsus]

@@dereknorman2762 It's part of the same war against the natural order of things.

[@jchristian8413]

@@JeremiahAlphonsus you mean the collectivized ego.

[@ZCJKF13GDG4]

@@JeremiahAlphonsus we gonna win the war and string up your bitchass god like mussolini

[@lhndrf7405]

@@JeremiahAlphonsus God is a myth created by smart people to control dumb people... aka brainwashing

[@feartactics]

It's like indoor rock climbing - completely different to outdoor rock climbing. Nothing replicates nature and the outdoors.

[@wbmarceloz]

Still a lot of fun though

[@MotoAtheist]

Several people compare this to a climbing gym and it's not even close to a proper comparison. Gyms are indoors, this wave is clearly outdoors. This wave is still water, The fake holds are not real rock. You can only go so high in a gym, real rock goes much higher. People are asking about wave height and I imagine it can go higher, but a certain height is clearly the sweet spot so it doesn't really matter. People are designing indoor routes, outdoor routes are natural. There really is no comparison between a gym and this wave.

[@adamlevin438]

@@MotoAtheist only your first point really holds up tbh. There is no such thing as a sweet spot with wave height, some people like medium sized waves larger than these, some people like giants. These waves are also completely artificial, they are impossibly perfect and not like natural chaotic waves at all

[@devin168]

Finnegan is the best writer/thinker on surfing out there. His book barbarian days is incredible.

[@OhanaFilms]

William Finnegan gets his big moment at the end but the ad for the next video covers him up. Nice.

[@josephastier7421]

The line at the end about some kid becoming a perfect surfer on a perfect wave, then going into real surf and drowning, sounds prophetic. Same as climbers who have all their experience in gyms then call for rescue the first time they're caught out after dark. There is absolutely no replacement for real world experience, even if it's an easy wave.

[@normanoro206]

Great clip. Kelly Slater made the perfect wave. As William Finnegan indicates, I don't know that there's any surfer who wouldn't want to surf that wave. I haven't paddled out regularly in a long time, but I would love to surf a wave like that; and I think it's true that if you've taken your lumps and you've had to conquer fear sometimes surfing, it makes that wave even more special. I think if you grow up surfing just that perfect wave without any unpredictability or danger, that's fine. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. I think you're blessed actually. However, it might not be as special for you because you never had to deal with shivering in the water to surf mush (and being genuinely thankful you got to surf those mushy waves), going over the falls, getting your bell rung on a closeout, getting caught inside, having to take off just in front of a bunch of rocks during low tide, getting bounced on the reef, etc.

[@mortypetwos]

Norman Oro couldn’t have said it better myself!!🤙🏼

[@robotsfrom]

Having been to the wave pool and experienced a few contests there, I believe wave pools will be to surfing what skateparks are to skating. Not a replacement just a place to surf with regularity and not have to worry about whether or not there will be waves. I think this pool and the one in texas will advance the sport, but no matter what is done in either, especially as far as airs go, it won't be legitimized until done in the ocean. That being said it's mind blowing to watch a surf contest that felt like a legitimate sporting event.

[@CAOHnutrition]

Being 55 and grown-up surfing in San Clemente I find the machine and the wave interesting, but it lacks the ecstatic environment - sometimes surfing is the adventure of just getting there, being there at the right moment, being in the right spot on the right set. I don't surf anymore, but that desire and feeling are just as intoxicating just thinking about it - I truly miss it with all my heart! I just don't think you can manufacture the energy and the feeling the ocean gives - many many pleasure moments rush through my mind just writing this!

[@AGAZILLION]

hopefully you're back into it.

[@w3newbie]

A vlogger/surfer called Ben Gravy was invited to Kelly's Surf Ranch and made a really in depth video of it as a facility in addition to riding it, best video for a first hand experience.

[@spicoledude]

@@JeremiahAlphonsus if you havent realized the world is being poisoned in front of your face. creating a wave pool is not a part of that process, leave it out of politics.

[@NickSoper]

Gravy livin’ the dream

[@tsarrite]

This the video you're talking about? kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2XZlKWCm5yGrJI

[@scottgorman7166]

Been surfing 50 years and as all surfers know some rides only last seconds to maybe 1/2 minute. Natural waves one has to make instantaneous decisions as the bottom changes, that is what makes it so freaking awesome. Now I'd love to give Kelly's wave a shot...2 minute plus rides...yea but I'm not one of the elites. Oh well I'll have to deal with some more of King Neptunes attitude. Pray for surf folks.

[@cheetahobx]

Like FREE weights versus machine weights......some much more complex and helps you grow that much more......

[@wbmarceloz]

Fantastic journalism. The surfing world needs more of that, desperately.

[@ericsurf6]

Nicely done New Yorker! Let's hope this Perfect Wave will be available for more of us to surf in the future.

[@closinginonclosure]

Vanity surfing. I have a love/hate relationship with Kelly's wave. It's good for some things like making competition a more even playing field and being able to rely on the waves. But it also takes some of the joy out of what surfing is at it's core.

[@fernandog.aguirre2791]

I'm just amazed! speechless ......Congrats! I live in Hawaii and this is that kind of sport that is near to impossible to be good when you don't learn it as a kid.

[@davidgough3512]

2-3 year learning curve. It's mostly paddling though.

[@Vlaid65]

Pleasantly surprised by this video. Pretty much touched on everything of importance. There are allot of truisms in our lives, but Steph Gillmore's comment summarized it well: "Then they paddle out at Pipeline and drown". Excellent video.

[@seancarey6592]

oh my god this guy put so much effort. I would long to surf there. GO KELLY SLATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@AppByDesign]

As a Dad with a 10 year old who is learning to surf I would love to have something like this near me. I don't like him being out in the open ocean at his age and skill level and would feel far better about him learning in a controlled environment and then progressing to the ocean later.

[@billbrewer4502]

It is like being helicoptered into Camp IV on Mt. Everest. What’s the point? This is a place for a very good surfer to take a vacation. It is like the private fishing lakes and hunting preserves, indoor skydiving or batting cages. There is no soul. The reporting, however, is very impressive.

[@rsmiii]

Ditto: this is to surfing what climbing walls/gyms have been to climbing. An outstanding way to practice and hone some skills, but not - repeat NOT, real preparation for the Real Thing. Nonetheless, this is cool - Kelly had a vision and 10 years' persistence and he saw it through to completion. Kudos.

[@wildebeast]

Bill Brewer no it isn’t It just a different kind of wave Like every wave in the ocean

[@jblo76]

Bill Brewer, very well said. This is an impressive feat of engineering but obviously completely takes out the unpredictability of nature which is the key ingredient to surfing.

[@skierpage]

@@jblo76 No, riding a wave is the key ingredient of surfing! I'm glad you like all the trappings around it, but they are not the essence. It's the same with skiing/snowboarding. The people in a man-made terrain park are looked down on by some in-bound riders, who are looked down on by riders who reach the peak by back-country cat, snowmobile, or heli, while some ski mountaineers feel they are the only ones who truly earned their turns. It's all good.

[@stoictraveler1]

will have millions trying to surf, if they market it that way.

[@maverik15j]

Read Finnegan's book "Barbarian Days" even if you're not a fan of surfing.

[@rfs1974]

Who woulda thought that "North Shore" the movie would be so accurate now a days. I want to watch it again... Netflix, please!

[@justthepip]

This was one of my favorite reads of 2018 - neat to see in video form as well.

[@arunwarriar]

Incredible invention but could blunt out the natural life saving instincts that a natural wave teaches! Rightly pointed out!

[@Jetty-xd9yc]

Nicely done. The Ying & Yang opinion of what he has created is where i'm at. Although I've surfed 30+ years, some at a professional level but always willing to pay my dues for good waves. Again, great job.

[@NorthTexasEagle1989]

Man I love how Finnegan speaks

[@malaihiboi]

He said there's no perfect waves in the ocean. That's not the truth. There are always perfect waves in nature. But it's a one time perfection each time.

[@sessionsinparadise7357]

malaihiboi every barrel I make it out of is perfection! For the odds to line up on my side to come flying out are slim to none but when it happens it’s magic

[@breadwinner6921]

All about luck and timing.

[@fernandomaron87]

Yeah, i guess he never saw Endless Summer the cape st Francis part.

[@adamnoce4172]

William Finnegan. Barbarian Days. AMAZING book. His credibility is 100%. This guy has surfed at some of the greatest waves around the world.

[@stokepusher5481]

I would live on Mars if Kelly's machine was there (also imagine the air's in low gravity) but if there's one thing I would change it would be a grid of water compartments under the lining which could be quickly be filled/emptied and so give the ability to mess with perfection and keep you on your toes once again. You just hit 'shuffle' on the Ranch iPod and hey presto, you never surf the same wave twice!

[@hyperbomb02]

I think Slater's wave will be absolutely pivotal to growing surf competitions. Surf comps have never been a viewer friendly affair, unless you were in person. But surf competitions have never been "the surf experience", I've done 2 when I was much younger, and they are just as hectic as William describes feeling when he was getting ready to drop in on this wave. When you are out there with friends, or at the end of a long day, every wave is good. Your last wave almost always feels like the best wave you've ever surfed, until you catch your next one. Whether that be a little off set wave that you catch to past the time, or when you paddle out and wait for the next set to roll in. That's surfing, it's why 5 year olds and 90 year olds enjoy it equally. It's not a test of physical merit or ability. This wave isn't recreating that experience, but as Slater said, it's definitely creating an environment of pure skill... which ultimately is what competition is about. I watched this comp on TV and loved it, as did everyone else in the bar it accidentally came on in. No one had seen a comp like this before, non-surfers were watching. The main effect is I wanted to go surfing. I welcome our new perfect competition wave overlords.

[@4xYotax4]

Are you kidding? The wave pool "comps" are the most boring things I've ever seen. Surfing is fun to watch because it is dynamic.

[@drewpickell]

it's the same thing as a skatepark. it's not ruining anything. just makes people better.

[@Nellosphere]

Artificial waves help save so much of the athletes time and energy just getting to that next wave. Also ride duration is improved so you now have more time to hone your craft. This wave obviously isn't as heavy as what you experience in the ocean but could you imagine if lakes and ponds had this technology all over the world?

[@chrispewkreme]

Wave pools are badass! You tell the wave when to go and it goes. You know what that wave is going to do. They can engineer an air section. It’s absolutely amazing. However, Pipeline and other waves just have such beauty to them. You have to read it and know what to do and when to do it.

[@DeanandLisa1803]

Endless Summer = “You reallllly missed it”

[@cartierchaps]

I see this as a parallel to skateboarding in a way. Skaters who can only skate skateparks because they’re perfectly built vs street skaters who can adapt and over come the flaws, I.E the ocean is a better test of ones abilities because it’s more difficult

[@gasser5001]

Great piece. Beautiful wave.

[@smoothjazzfails]

Nature: often imitated, but never duplicated.

[@CaptainFuckboy]

went there in september for the surf ranch pro

[@AlbaAdventures]

This was great! I liken it to this being a gym. A place where you can have a good time, learn some skills, and tricks . Skiing culture has many of the same similarities. Trying to control nature, though knowing that its not the same, its still helps advance the sport.

[@Eggs4ckley]

Surf spots are generally overcrowded. Open source the bottom contours so we can build quality surf breaks in the ocean.(no sandbag follies) and let nature supply the energy.

[@davidgough3512]

Solve beach erosion: why not dissipate wave energy in the graduated form of peeling breakers? Nonsurfers are not qualified to be coastal engineers.

[@Tomahawk_-hq6bw]

Wow guess I never saw it that way. Thanks for making a great vid

[@exc_lk]

As a realist i have to admit, whatever argument against this comes up, at the end the surfer with the most hours on this wave is the best surfer!

[@julianafricholdvic9049]

Word!

[@fazzegama]

Dude, what you say is the absolute truth. God bless you.

[@jxnfrd4049]

Perfectly explained. Thats the answer i was searching for.

[@doc8882]

The fact that it's perfect is the fact that it's never gonna help anyone because if you were to go out in nature things take a turn...

[@JSharp-gu7lv]

Hey if it makes the line up at real surf spots less crowded Im all for it!

[@ob5443]

Exactly

[@marvinacklin792]

Formulaic surfing,,,the chaotic randomness of the real wave is a critical factor in what makes surfing magic

[@thebensman9786]

Finnegan charging HUGE surf backside! Yeah now! Uniquely qualified to report on this

[@carvaonline]

Amazing journalism. I didn't get the "408 or 608?" question kelly asked at 6:50, can someone explain?

[@davidgough3512]

Tee-times 4:08 pm or 6:08 pm

[@JSharp-gu7lv]

Am I the only surfer here who doesnt know what the term “408 or 608” means? At first I thought it was area codes, I know that 408 is an area code for San Jose and some of Santa Cruz, but 608 is in Wisconsin or something according to google. If it were “408 or 808” (808 is a Hawaiian area code) that would make sense. Can some one explain?

[@surf4tv]

4 foot 8 inch board

[@parraphrase]

Great piece.

[@3dbadboy1]

I see it as a training tool. Get comfortable, skilled a bit, THEN ... head out to the ocean for the real deal. It won't get you ready for the unexpected; you still have to learn to respect nature's waves.

[@joeporcello1964]

It would be amazing to go. Too bad Kelly doesn't open it to the public. N if you were to rent it it'd be 5 figures

[@krusher74]

i read somewhere there were about 70 days open in 2019 "for rent" its $70K a day, that about $300/400 a wave. And sold out already!

[@83bmaran]

Nicely done .

[@ocrun6765]

Should be a Nobel Prize waiting for the scientist who can invent that never ending circle wave. It's like VHS to DVD

[@MotoAtheist]

There shouldn't be any reason why a circular concrete channel couldn't be made with the machine running around the perimeter. Just a matter of some calculations on how wide the channel needs to be and what diameter. I can imagine it would be quite massive.

[@fjordking]

good for Kelly he created his own little surf country club, not exactly for the masses and everyday suffer can afford but it's pretty cool

[@ylborn]

Great job!

[@dalicloud9]

I guess this is comparable to a skateboarder learning to ride on tough terrain in the streets as opposed to learning to skate at a smooth and clean skatepark.

[@Turbo_Tractors]

Does it feel different to surf fresh water?

[@befmx31]

Can the waves be made different sizes? Look at 7:36 or 8:14. They look to be a pretty good size wave. Other parts look fairly small. Or is it just that the bigger waves are in the deeper water? I just think wave pools like these open up the world of surfing to so many people that otherwise would not have a chance. Also, provides you the ability to learn or hone your skills. I think it is a good thing. I would LOVE to try it. Just my 2 cents.

[@MotoAtheist]

It's absolutely a good thing. All the negative nancy's are F'n idiots. People have some weird concept that if something exists, they'll be forced to use it somehow. If they don't F'n like it, don't F"n use it, right? Take their BS complaints back to their precious ocean waves and STFU, right?

[@geremdu85]

Kelly the king!!!!!!

[@clarkewi]

Amazing.

[@tommyzdoesstuff342]

After Slater's wave people will want an artificial wave for awhile. But then want an organic wild wave soon after

[@davidgough3512]

They're in for a shock. Nature isn't that cooperative.

[@happymaui]

Lucky are we who are able to talk about it ;)

[@TheJttv]

Artificial surfing competitions are so bland.

[@gdi1093]

Jttv no, you know what’s bland? White rice with no seasoning.

[@squarecracker]

all surfing competitions are stupid. It's impossible to judge.

[@Tophatjones358]

Listening to this guy talk about the incredible wave and then hearing his response of "meh" when he got to surf it made me realize why I hate surfers and journalists. I need to go watch some Point Break to wash the bad taste out of my mouth...

[@davidgough3512]

Too wuss to actually go surfing? It's not like you think.

[@paraboo8994]

Oh my God, I do NOT want to imagine the calculations going into building that 😂

[@adamdennis2936]

Real perspective

[@juliogomez-fraile7840]

with all due respect... there are no mediocre waves. nature is not mediocre.

[@freddesmet259]

Nice back story.

[@wtfftw24]

Well time again for the Olimpic Games, this time without waiting period..

[@exploreinfinite9175]

What happens if you wipe out tho because of that iron blade

[@MotoAtheist]

Can you not see the obvious protective fence?

[@126sean]

what does he mean by 408 or 608 ??

[@surf4tv]

4' foot 8 inch board

[@siriosstar4789]

Wow, that's waaay over thought . It's a wave machine , that's all. Enjoy the REAL waves and enjoy the machine waves. No need for comparisons.

[@Systems1]

No such thing as “the perfect wave”. Lol. This machine is great. Im a horseman, and you can learn some techniques on a machine. But horses are like waves….unpredictable, somewhat naturally chaotic. Horsemanship comes out of that soup. You can never learn horsemanship with a machine. A surfer can strengthen muscles, hold events, and learn with the wave machine to augment your natural routines. Nice invention. Hope he can expanded across the country.

[@gregoryhoover5875]

Kelly's wave and those surely to follow will be practical for land-locked folks who want to enjoy the sport, but inevitably, the purist side of the sport will prevail. Just as rock climbers soon bore of scaling indoor man-made walls with plastic hand-holds, and yearn to scale a mountain side, an IRREPLACEABLE key element of surfing is the unpredictability of the wave. THAT IS THE CHALLENGE surfing brings to the surfer WITH EACH NEW WAVE appearing on the horizon. And the talent and trades-craft required to meet those challenges makes the great surfer - not being a surfer who perfects a riding style on a TAMED wave.

[@MotoAtheist]

Several people compare this to a climbing gym and it's not even close to a proper comparison. Gyms are indoors, this wave is clearly outdoors. This wave is still water, The fake holds are not real rock. You can only go so high in a gym, real rock goes much higher. People are designing indoor routes, outdoor routes are natural. There really is no comparison between a gym and this wave.

[@ravenhalterman6764]

I’m reading barbarian days!

[@moviedude22]

I expected way more Kelly Slater in this clip lol

[@ronen6283]

6:52 what does that mean

[@standupforgood7810]

Advanced?! Haaa Combo Kellys wave with The Venus Project abd you get... 24 perfect waves wrapping the circle city all day every day every city. The future of a sane society. The Best That Money Cant Buy.

[@ZNANZABLE]

michael jordan is the kelly slater of basketball

[@markkendrick7547]

Great for training and practicing but they have no business having competition on it......Not natural and variant.......

[@paulas6256]

Sorry, I disagree. It is Perfect for competition. Because each competitor of any category is performing on the 'Identical" type of wave -- Like comparing oranges to oranges -- or like comparing apples to apples. No one can say that the winners "got better waves" than the non-winners.

[@edwardbenoit3545]

Kelly make it bigger! 15 foot!!!!!

[@maxhenke92]

I am currently dealing with a start-up that tries really hard to get people investing in its energy storage technology, although its very promising and - to be honest - extremely necessary due to the transition to renewable energy. So they are struggling but this wave creation stuff is made real. I am not critising sports but shouldn't focus a little bit more on the stuff that is necessary to sustain humain life on this planet?

[@davidgough3512]

Agreed. But when people lose interest in nature they don't care to protect it. Earth is to be played in and loved. Naturesports are a cultural doorway into sustainability. Beauty is underrated as a legit and necessary value. Good onya for your noble efforts.

[@NIKKO500]

La meme vague va etre installe en France Castets

[@ivangotyokes]

Lol. They have constant drought in California... LET'S BUILD A WAVE POOL! Still pretty cool.

[@spicoledude]

engineered drought

[@Jeramithehuman]

I think the wave pool is in Texas

[@davidgough3512]

The broadest value in these repeatable wave machines is not so much in contests as in BOARD DESIGN

[@mitseraffej5812]

Has anybody seen numbers on how much energy, ie cost, is required per wave? The bigger the wave the more it will cost I guess. When I build mine it will be in sea water and ten miles long.

[@wheresthereef8622]

thats a big wave William ;)

[@stoictraveler1]

billion dollar idea....these things could (should) pop up everywhere.

[@snowmochi1373]

Surfing competitions won’t depend on who gets what waves anymore so it’ll be more fair?

[@shifttube1283]

well the wave not that big should have made the wave 3ft bigger

[@1stzard]

At the end of the day, it is still a wave pool. Just have fun

[@4dogsannacat]

Don’t worry about playing God Kelly. God created Tavarua.

[@mikehancho2082]

Wait until they dig a super deep pool/quarry and recreate Mavericks!

[@reyes2446]

Way to expensive to become mainsteam. To date, how much has each wave cost? Surely a lot more than any mainstream person can afford.

[@Dreama40]

No Sharks to worry about, it can't be all bad.

[@jenniferhall4560]

Ur the Best

[@crusadershuakbar]

we`re gonna need more artificial surf reefs ...........everywhere, just to cope with the crowds

[@jenniferhall4560]

All apologies .... in stokeD

[@wokedudeels3843]

Surfing is to expensive to become main stream

[@nicktosti7487]

Not if you live by a beach. I surfed growing up because all I needed was my board, cheapest thing on the island.

[@GemTones]

I've been surfing for 43 years. By the looks of the lineups every time I paddle these days, I'd say it's main stream.

[@spicoledude]

this will indefinitely progress the sport to new levels, don't think of it as a way of killing the soul of surfing. I can't wait to surf the pool. Nothing compares or substitutes for the ocean, so just think of it as a place that exists in the valley where humans have artificially created surfing, nothing more.

[@brucewallner6753]

Yeah that’s fantastic. We have the money but I don’t think so.

[@SDgraney1904]

Just wait till this wave gets to be as big as pipeline.