Suzuki DR-650 Valve Check and Adjustment Tutorial (HD)

[@eveRide]

Dude you're good at these... HD helps a LOT. My only criticism is that your DR650 is way cleaner than a DR650 has a right to be. :-) You should probably come to Southern Utah and we can fix that problem in a day or two.

[@AftaabGulam]

Thanks for demystifying valve checks and adjustments for us. In Canada, my mechanic would charge me a minimum of 4 hours to do this job which would be $400! He also grimaced when I asked about it. I'd rather do it myself so that I know how to do it in the future and don't have to deal with overly expensive charges and a reluctant mechanic. Quality of the video is fantastic. Cheers :)

[@jaetheo]

Thanks for watching! Glad I could help make life a little easier!

[@SailingCorina]

Your mechanic is taking advantage of you because it took me under an hour to do it without experience. How can someone justify 4 hours? Doesn't sound honest.

[@AftaabGulam]

@@SailingCorina, I suspect he doesn't know how to do it or is thinking of the bucket and shim-type valve check. Regardless, I've learned how to do it and it doesn't take long with the right tools.

[@mateostyle]

Great video! I adjusted the valves and had starter bogging issues. Your video was a big help!

[@scottk.8494]

Good video and this will help with my first DR650. Another option besides vice grips on the extension is to simply use a breaker bar.

[@polynicient]

not sure if it makes a difference but the Suzuki shop manual says to line up the line-not the “T”. The T is just the label for the line

[@robsadler5605]

Jaetheo, just wanted to say thank you for this video and for answering questions in the comment section. It's been years since you posted this but it's a treasure. You're a class act. Thank you so much for the beautiful tutorial! -Rob

[@jaetheo]

Thank you for the compliment! I am always happy to help out another biker! I have more videos in the works, but I am horrible at finishing projects so they may be months or years before I get around to them :)

[@PennsylvaniaDualSport]

I have no internet where the bikes are kept so ill be bringing my DR into the living room (again LOL) to follow your guidance on my laptop. Thank you for putting this together

[@spankervideo]

Bravo with the wood screw trick for a square socket. Emphasize to NEVER make the adjustment with the feeler gage in between the adjuster and the valve. I have seen so many people do this it boggles my mind. Thanks for showing it done correctly.

[@liveyourselftodeath]

What is the problem with making the adjustment with the feeler gauge in the gap?

[@moosemusic6703]

This is a great video and tutorial. Camera work made everything much clearer to me. Thank you.

[@314adv]

Thanks for the vid - seeing it done makes reading the manual a lot easier to understand.

[@jokerace96]

Greetings from Czech. Thx a lot i didn´t know how the Tline looks like and u revealed this little thing to me.

[@godygody6320]

Hi there, I didn't know you can own dr650 in Europe.

[@aretee3]

Thank you very much jaetheo. I have a 2013 and will do the adjustment this weekend. I have waited too long to do the adjustment as I'm at 2,700 miles but I should be OK. I called the dealer and they said just make sure you don't get close to 7,000 miles before you do it.

[@suzetteshipman2741]

There is a major problem !! The significant wear of the valves occurs at the seat in the head and the contact point with the valve itself. When this wears down the valve clearance gets SMALLER. The .004 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust is the MINIMUM because of the wear in the seat. If you set the valves at the minimum your bike will SOONER get to the point where the wear causes the clearance to disappear, at which point the valve will stay open and burn up. It is better to adjust the valves from the average UP to the MAXIMUM. In your case .006 to .008 intake and .010 to .012 for exhaust. Doing this will give you 2 or 3 times the mileage before damage occurs due to TIGHT no clearance valve. Do not exceed the maximum. Above the maximum another problem developes with noise and the top of the valve gets mushroomed from the spike load from the adjustment screw, caused by the sudden ramp up. Think of it like if you took a hammer from 1 inch above a nail vs a hammer blow 6 inches above the nail.

[@MrDuhfactor]

Way to go Jae!! Nice tutorial! Having adjustable rocker arms is really nice, another reason to love the zuke!!!

[@DustySquitoNM]

Very well put together tutorial. Doing the valves tonight, and I wanted to see what I needed to look for with the TDC thing.

[@anhtuanphan6159]

Awesome video. It takes all the mysteries out of valve adjustments.

[@kevinnowell8508]

Good quality video. Not sure if anyone has advised you, but the Suzuki Maintenance Manual says "Turn the crankshaft until the T line on the magneto rotor is aligned with the center of the hole on the magneto cover"

[@kc2koj]

do you put the line or the T in the center of the inspection hole

[@jaetheo]

jerry taylor I believe I centered the T in the view hole, but there is some debate as to which one you are supposed to line up. I have read it both ways. Not sure that the 1-2 degrees of rotation on the motor would give you a different reading at the valves, so either way is probably fine.

[@kevinnowell8508]

To each their own. We each keep our own machines to our own specs and I would never intend to be critical of anyone elses work. But don't forget that valve clearances are measured in thousandths of an inch, so the extra rotation might make just enough difference...that said, I've never tested that theory yet. My valves will be due for inspection this coming winter, so I might try to verify the difference then. Ride it like a rental!

[@Josecito777]

Kevin Nowell You are right, but that's not that important. Once you see the T through the hole, you may rotate the engine side to side since both valves remain closed during a certain angle. As long as BOTH valves are closed you can adjust clearance just fine. TDC is important to engine ignition

[@redneckpunkmudder]

I love your custom choke handle dude! Good video!

[@dozerjohn]

That's a damn fine production quality mate.

[@JeffJeno1000]

Nice tip re the square head screw, ingenuity at its finest. As we do ;-)

[@ponca622622]

That is some info I needed on timing. My bike is a vl800 Volusia though and not so easy to get to the valves on it. Thanks for the informative video.

[@rosarioroberto5823]

Greetings WOW, what a fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸. Keep producing more videos.

[@Mainrollman]

Great video! I'll be using this as a guide in the Fall to check my DR650's valves.

[@jaetheo]

+2phalanges, the purpose for the valves is to open and close at the top of the cylinder head to allow the gas/air mix in, and a separate set open to allow the exhaust gases to escape. Over time, parts can wear down and the valve clearances change. This procedure helps to get the valves opening at the right time and the right amount.

[@huggybear539]

jaetheo do you have a video on replacing the clutch cable?

[@cjlaw100]

I was under the impression you weren't supposed to bend shims because they were so fine measured it would throw it out of wack. Good to know that's not a problem.

[@jaetheo]

Thanks John. I shot it on my new Nikon D5100. It was a much needed upgrade over my 10 yr old Canon point n' shoot.

[@jason8842]

I really appreciate the professionally produced tutorial, this is extremely helpful. Where did you find the square head deck screw? I went to Lowes and Home Depot the other day and didnt find any square headed ones in the wood screw section. Also, is it a specific one, like a #8 or something? Wikipedia indicates that there are a number of different Robertson screw head sizes, but I'm guesseing its 1/8". Of course if I have to buy a big box of screws I might as well just buy the procycle thing.

[@steviesaintanko2368]

Great vid. Love the screw trick. Thank you.

[@jaetheo]

Thanks for watching. With the right tools the job is quite easy to do. I did see that Procycle now offers a little $10 Valve Adjustment Driver that they print on their 3D printer and it looks like it has a round head square-drive screw for the tip. Just as easy to make your own though.

[@DustySquitoNM]

+twangthing no, you do not have to drain the oil. According to the service manual, the only thing you should really keep in mind is that the motor needs to be cold when you check this. So do it on a weekend before you take it out riding. jaetheo thanks for the tutorial. I have no idea how the heck you got your engine to look that beautiful, but feel free to come do it to mine.

[@ponca622622]

+dustysquito I have a vl800 went to pull the crankshaft cover out and oil came out of there. Is it too full or is that normal?

[@jason8842]

I bought the procycle adjustment tool and its a 1/8 inch wide opening, one that takes a #2 square drive bit. The feeler gauges they sell are bent at 45 degrees and their blade is half the width of a standard feeler gauge (about 7mm vs 15mm). Some swear this makes a difference.

[@skipdippity]

Great video. Great views...so close. So easy..thanks man..!!

[@Jimo368]

I made a similar tool using a Robertson screw for adjusting the 16 valves on my Bandit.

[@elobiretv]

A very short breaker bar is also great for turning the engine instead of vice grips. I think it's the only time I've ever used mine

[@legalizeme]

Scar tissue by RCHP disturbed me a bit... :D Great video, thank you very much!

[@XrhstosGr]

Nice video , thanks for taking the time to share

[@marcogonzalez7829]

DR650.com says to line up the horizontal line, not the T. With the bike in neutral, get a 17mm socket onto the nut inside the magneto cover cap and turn the crankshaft over slowly counterclockwise until the horizontal line below the 'T' on the magneto rotor is central in the timing inspection hole.

[@klvo86]

In: 0.08-0.13 out 0.17-0.22 according the user manuan by suzuki! Thnks 4 video!!

[@steelmilkjug]

That's metric (milimeters). He's using inches (.004"/.008")

[@phrankus2009]

Nice, pretty, clean machine. ... One lucky bike !

[@77loka]

so, was it clockwise? great videos. I'll be doing a check up on my DR650 soon. great info. please keep doing the tutorials.

[@fuelman123]

by chance did u complete the valve adjustment on your bike? I am ready to do the procedure myself on the drz650....was it easy to compete?

[@jaetheo]

+huey long Yes. I did complete it. It was pretty simple job with the right tools.

[@fuelman123]

Going to dive into it this weekend..

[@jaetheo]

Yeah, I had to have it clean. The first time I did this, I did not clean things off well, and a little dirt fell down in. I had to spend a while cleaning it, since there is engine oil in there that would carry it down into the rest of the engine.

[@SailingCorina]

I watched 3 videos about this and all 3 said to center the "T" while my manual says to center the line next to the "T". You can definitely feel a difference in the turning of the crank between the T and line. The engine actually moves off the line to the T when you let go of the socket. I think the difference between the 2 positions is important with such tight tolerances. Now I am more confused. I guess I'll go against the manual and center the T instead of the line since no one has reported a problem.

[@jaetheo]

When you do do adjust your valves, please text the measurements at both the line and the T and report back. I would like to know if there is a measurable difference since everyone seems to have the same question. Thanks!

[@MsNevadakid]

thank you! tips were helpful...happy trails...

[@Eagleguts]

electricians use a lot of those kinds of screws great idea they normally are driven with what is known as a Roberts bit

[@straightpipestudio6026]

Well presented vid, very clear. Excellent!

[@donalfredisaac]

jaetheo good tutorial just need to know how often is this valve check done thank you

[@jaetheo]

After checking around online, it looks like they should be checked at 600, 7500, 15000... and every 7500 miles after that.

[@michaelpaccione3801]

Those numbers are way off that procycle gave you... Haynes manual is .08-.13 intake and .17-.22 exhaust

[@jaetheo]

The numbers in this video are .004 (intake) and .008 (exhaust) in inches. If your gauges are metric, then it would be .08-.14 mm intake and .17-.22mm exhaust. Thanks for catching that! I should have included both inches and metric.

[@michaelpaccione3801]

@@jaetheo ohhhhh yeah okay man you're good then. Good call on the screw thing btw too bad I didn't have any 😆

[@bill45colt]

using the correct tools would make it easier. Get a very small crescent wrench or open end wrench. They make them that small and you are sure to need them again. I was factory rep for Honda for two years for Ala and Ga. Most all maintenance and repair jobs on motorcycles are not hard to do in the least, you just need simple instructions and a set of tools to keep every thing running as it should. Good video

[@jaetheo]

I tried using a stubby little box wrench, but I could not get a good fit on the lock nut due to the angle. Ideally, one of those open-ended go-through ratchets would work the best. That way, you could adjust the square head with the ratchet on the locking nut. Thanks for watching!

[@bill45colt]

Ive not tried that engine but sometime you may have to grind a box end to suit you or heat and bend the handle for a different angle, or use a tubing wrench which is a box end but one side open. Creativeness here is the key. What ever you come up with, it will be neat to have a custom set that you have adapted, and will use later. Thanks for the good videos, keep them coming!!

[@jaetheo]

Thanks! I aim to please. Let me know if there is anything else you would like to see.

[@yoyohooyo]

Thank you for an excellent instruction and your timer. counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, ????????? LOL

[@rhino941]

Big thanks for this!

[@jaetheo]

Happy to help the moto community! Stay safe out there! 😁

[@intellectualkshatriya3046]

Awesome 👏

[@2phalanges]

im a beginner, but whats the purpose of valve check and adjustment? thanks friend.

[@spartan8390]

You seem to be in the know on the 650 so I'll ask you. I just posted a video on my channel Spartan ADV and need some help. The video will cover it and it's only 3 minutes long. Thank you for your time!

[@donaldbougie694]

Good video,thank you.

[@jonpeters5194]

Is TDC the T or the line according to the manual?

[@douglasbuck2359]

Still has that stock fuel filter in the fuel nipple!

[@karolinaja1]

nicely done very helpful thanks

[@geraldscott4302]

DO NOT turn the engine clockwise. That can damage the cam chain, cam chain guides, and tensioner. It is designed to ONLY turn counterclockwise. With the spark plug removed it should not turn too far when using a ratchet, since there is no compression. The little mark on the flywheel is useless once you understand what is happening. With the valve covers off, you want the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, with all the valves closed (I have no idea why Suzuki used 4 valves and 2 spark plugs, 1 spark plug and 2 valves would have been better and reduced complication on what is otherwise a very simple bike) When both valves are closed, they can be adjusted. Turn the engine over several times and watch the valves to get an understanding of what is going on. The valves will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft rotation. Watch them closely, then turn the crankshaft just a little more before adjusting the valves.

[@E_U_O]

If you set the loose tight switch in the middle it locks your ratchet.

[@jerrydelacruz5119]

Turn it counter-clockwise, right?

[@ericfastclip9959]

Do you know what size square head screw that you are using in the video to hold the valve adjustment screw? Is it a #8 or #10 ext? They only come in packs of 25 or more.I don't want to purchase the wrong size. Please advise.Thanks

[@jaetheo]

I am not sure what the screw size is, the square head driver is a #2.

[@ericfastclip9959]

Thank you! That will help me find the right screw that I need for this job. Thanks again!!

[@brandonjesse9668]

very nice video!

[@MRM-wp4gr]

Do you know for sure or not if turning the bolt clockwise will harm the engine?

[@jaetheo]

I don't think it does any major damage, but when I turned mine the wrong way it sounded like there was sand in it.

[@Oxenan17]

+jaetheo the sound comes from starter gears. nothing will happen to them but surely sounds very bad

[@227lazer]

Great video no e scene trick.

[@natewebb]

torque wrench works better than vice grips for turning crank, otherwise great video

[@jaetheo]

natewebb True. A fixed torque wrench will work better than a socket wrench since it has more control. The reason I used the vice grips was to line up and point the handle at the "T" line so I know where it is at. Either one will work to get the job done. Thanks for watching!

[@blackhatch46]

natewebb or a breaker bar too

[@monkeygirl4202]

I just got a 650 DR 97 model it needs some work and a few parts ..I was wondering if u could suggest an online parts site that's safe 2 order from and has the parts I need...please and thank u...

[@jaetheo]

I have always had good success with ordering OEM parts from partzilla.com. I have used www.rockymountainatvmc.com and www.motorcycle-superstore.com for aftermarket parts. Of course, if you can find it used on eBay, that is usually the best deal as long as you read through the auction thoroughly.

[@monkeygirl4202]

jaetheo awesome thank you ..ill check them out..

[@robertwrazen6159]

jaetheo, thanks for the vid. Does your ratchet not have a locking center position for the forward/reverse so you can forego the whole vicegrip on socket business?

[@jimp.6705]

Good tutorial. But the line needs to be centered according to the manual, not the "T"..Does it really matter? Maybe not.

[@jaetheo]

Jim P. I am not 100% sure that it matters one way or the other. There are differing opinions on it. The only real way to answer this would be to try it both ways and then measure each one with the feeler gauges. If you end up doing this, please let us know what you find out and I'll update the video. Thanks for watching!

[@jimp.6705]

jaetheo Just been doing it by the line man. Would those few degrees matter? Probably. The manual clearly states to center the line not the Y.

[@adventureguy4119]

Neato

[@DC-sh8mr]

Center the Line not the T next to the line.

[@user-well86]

*как узнать когда мне надо регулировать клапана?*

[@gregmccarter3640]

How about a breaker bar. That's what I use

[@jaetheo]

GREG McCarter that would work well too. The whole reason for using the vice grips was to align the angle of the grips with the T| marking to make it simpler to follow it all the way around.

[@1WEEBLE1]

how often do you adjust them

[@jaetheo]

According to the shop manual, the first valve check should be at 600 miles. After that, replace the spark plugs and check the valve clearance every 7500 miles. Also, just FYI, oil changes should be every 3500 miles--though if you are riding in dusty conditions or crossing water you will want to do it more often.

[@1WEEBLE1]

jaetheo thanks

[@ManiaKDaMicMurderah]

should this work for a dr350

[@jaetheo]

I would assume that it would be similar but probably slightly different in the placement of things. Both are air cooled engines. Be sure to check the gap for your specific bike.

[@ManiaKDaMicMurderah]

+jaetheo thanks for your reply. i do have the clymer manual i am pretty sure it is same clearance as your ex and in. but will double check on those numbers. but the physical part is pretty much identical i would assume? thanks for your tutorial

[@jaetheo]

I had a DR250 and although I never got into it, the two valve covers looked pretty similar. The process will be similar since I believe the 350 has adjuster screws rather than shims. I am not sure what the valve clearances should be though.

[@kidrauhljb]

+jaetheo i have the same 250 as the one behind your 650 is the process to adjust the valves the same with the 650? not talking about the gaps