SV650 - Front Wheel Bearing Change

2001 Suzuki SV650 front bearing change. I used the All Balls kit which is quite inexpensive ($~11 from Sportbike Track Gear) for the front wheel. It comes with a few dust seals I don't believe you use. The rear kit is more expensive ($~30) and uses a dust seal, but that's not part of this video.
Not a mechanic. Open to criticism.

[@steffenramso]

Best quality tutorial for this i have seen. thanks man this was 100% super helpfull! i probably would have screwed this up somehow without ;)

[@matttriestodothings]

Thanks man, glad it was helpful. I had screwed it up in the past myself, so I was hoping to help people from making the same mistakes that I had previously.

[@jamesgizmo1999]

Awesome video man love the diagram. Super helpful!

[@matttriestodothings]

Thanks James. Hopefully it can help someone to not destroy a set of bearings... Like me, lol. Cheers.

[@AndrewBoundy]

Nice video man. I hate doing bearings. I would love a blind puller and a driver set - MP makes nice ones but there's so many other things to spend money on :-)

[@matttriestodothings]

I put off doing bearings for years after just mangling a set. Then ordering new ones, waiting for them, and mangling them again on installation. That was on a 1991 FZR I used to have. Figured I had to get back in the saddle and try again with a little more thought this time. Ain't that the thing though? Too many things to spend money on! Thanks for the kind words, Andrew.

[@DylonND]

This was a great video, thanks for the sacrifice on the speedo saved me a headache, I was wondering about exactly that. Went from a cbr1000f to an SV650 and noticed that cable and speedo sensor thing and was like wtf is this?! CBR was easy, just pop both bearings out and sink both in flush. This was ever so slightly more complicated.

[@matttriestodothings]

Thanks Dylon. Yea the speedo sensor makes wheel changes a little more tricky since it's fairly easy to damage the magnetic rotor inside. It'll work fine without it--but then you loose the speedometer.

[@ienock22]

thank you!

[@matttriestodothings]

No problem.

[@Sythriox]

Didn't have any luck using a rod to get the first bearing out. Not enough lip inside. what ended up being really easy, is to remove the roller separator material in the bearing itself with some pliers and a flathead so all the bearing balls and inner race fell out and I had easy access to the spacer. After I got the other bearing out, I put in about 5 bearing balls on back onto the outer race that was still in the wheel, and moved a few of the bearing balls around so it held the inner race back in again, and hammered that end out from the other side. took about 4 minutes. Also the extra dust seals should in fact fit on the non-speedo side as well. They each have a different inner diameter, so just see which one fits the shaft best. They are a replacement for the OEM configuration. Not sure how required they are, since the bearings do have dust shields on them. I think it's more for stopping dust from getting between the shaft and the inner race by acting as a squeegee you slide in the shaft .

[@matttriestodothings]

Good to know you found a clever way to get them out. It can be frustrating as hell when you're unable to catch a lip on that first bearing.

[@Mad8vCycles]

i see you use the pitbull wheel holder :) loving the prison lunch tray. i should get some

[@Mad8vCycles]

i generally use the pit posse bearing puller kit. it can generally pull bearings without killing them

[@Mad8vCycles]

did i mention i really like the gopro head-mounted setup? depending on the situation it's way better than my tripod angles

[@Mad8vCycles]

"swing press" is great, but once i got the 20t press, life got infinitely easier

[@Mad8vCycles]

on a 2g you would use the dust seal on the non-speedo side i bet the kit fits like 20 other bikes and some others use 2 seals.

[@matttriestodothings]

I love the trays. Wish I wouldn't have given two of them away years ago. On the flip side, those big cookie sheet type trays you introduced me to have been awesome--I just need to figure out where to get one of the huge holders like you've got that can house multiple levels of projects at once.

[@jerryeinstandig7996]

the very last choice in wheel bearings would be allballs, junk from china built to be cheap and disposable.your life could be at risk. use quality bearings made in usa,, germany or japan ONLY. half-priced bearings are going to last half as long as OEM.

[@matttriestodothings]

You're not going to get an argument from me that I'd have been better off going OEM or SKF.

[@BlueRidgeKat1]

Every 30,000 ? Guess I've been lucky and change them at 75k and their still ok.

[@matttriestodothings]

I'm not sure of the actual recommendation. I figured after 20 years they ought to be changed. I just pulled out my 1984 vf500 wheel bearings. About 20k miles but looked like a war zone. I'm sure a proper bearing that wasn't abused could hit 100k and be fine.