Sweet Bippie: Shaft, Strut and Log

[@sailingsvbohemian1464]

Thank for the help . I had to bed my strut on a Tayana 55 sailboat . This video was the most informative I’ve seen

[@nickolbayboatcraft1631]

Nice work guys 👍🏻

[@davepiercin7897]

Keep the videos coming. Great stuff

[@SeaboardMarineIncVideos]

Thanks!

[@SaleQl]

love these type of videos keep them comming

[@danmartin9558]

Great craftsmanship

[@br5498]

Sweet video!

[@miamipopping]

How much time on average to drill the holes for the strut pads? I have 6 screws on each pad. So total of 12 holes

[@PFLEONARDI0906]

The shaft/rudder alignment offset is old school...even the US Navy used that years ago...old school ingenuity to keep maintenance downtime to a minimum...

[@pinchmesh2856]

There isn't a reason to have a press fit on a strut bearing. A simple slip fit with a cross pin through the brass edge of the bearing of brass or bronze (same as the strut) works great. Just bend the ends on the cross piece to keep it in place. I've done this, and had no problems with the cutless or its fuctioning. A good idea, would be to fit a second bearing with the through hole drilled, and a piece of the brass rod so the bearing cold be changed without a complete haulout. I've done this on a 3 inch shaft and a 40 inch propeller, and had no problems. Have the strut through hole drilled to strut size, and cross "edge" drilled so a brass rod will penetrate the brass on the cutless mostly,, insert a bearing, drill the bearing using the strut as a guide, and insert the brass rod and bend the ends over. If the rod takes a little of the rubber, it hurts nothing. Simple, and it works WAY better than anything else. It's also a LOT cheaper and results in less lost time; Anything "marine" is always more expensive... simply because it can be.

[@SeaboardMarineIncVideos]

Agreed that a press fit isn't necessary. We use set screws that are seated in dimples in the brass. We also use some caulking to fill any gaps and voids around the bearing. The caulking lets go fairly easy with a press or puller, but keeps the bore and bearing protected from saltwater corrosion. Bearings last quite a long time so we aren't too concerned with changing without a hall out. In theory I like the idea of a cross pin or keeper on the tangent of the bearing, however, as a pretty experienced machinist, I can tell you that is a bit harder to pull off than it sounds. Drilling off center on a round object usually requires a mill not a drill press or hand drill. When you think about it, The dimpled set screws really achieve much the same effect. And they can be done with a drill press or even with a cordless drill at the boatyard.

[@kenmoule825]

​@SeaboardMarineIncVideos Great video. The screws become the issue later but could be drilled out. The brass pin drifted through seems easy to deal with in the water. Both will work. Would I do it under water? No.

[@yachtworks370]

What was the caulking/ sealant used around the bearing and on the screws ?

[@Black-qw2hu]

5200 marine sealant

[@calnorZ]

What size in mm is the shafts on this one? See you uses the old struts, no need too upgrade the shafts?

[@miketee2444]

Pretty sure I'd prefer less shaft angle and more pitch on my prop. At this level of gutting, prop tunnels aren't too far fetched.

[@markkirsten3]

Is this a 31 commander or what model boat is it?

[@ultramagaviking1966]

why aluminum instead of stainless... I would think aluminum would oxydize as bad as steel in saltwater.

[@remodeledcatidea5324]

Why not use a universal joint

[@saykouss]

Have those on my yacht . Too much Power loss and frequent failure of the u joint due to vibration planning to make it a straight shaft soon

[@osu3221]

Better not show women they can cut through a fiberglass hull like butter. They would never get the acetylene set right to get through mine.

[@ultramagaviking1966]

frank gives zero fks about youtube videos