Swimming Pool Light Complete Replacement. How To with Tips & Tricks - Chlorine King

[@josephmartinez3834]

Knew how to replace the light & housing but was not sure about replacing the wire, now I know, thanks for the OJT, you saved me some $$$$! Will send out some Kudos on your behalf!🤘

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I really appreciate the kind words and I’m glad the video helped!

[@randyness678]

Thanks!! After trying for a couple months to get my pool guy or another service person to change my old fixture out, I ordered a new one on Amazon, and watched your video. I had to have a friend feed the new cable in as I pulled the old one out (it's nearly 100'), and we did it! Saved myself some money and learned more about my pool in the process. Thanks for the great helpful video, followed it exactly and the new light works great!

[@pvtrayfinkle4989]

Hey, was your wire in a conduit or just earth? I need to replace mine, the lense on it exploded when I went to change the bulb but it's so old I can't find parts for it. Looking to retrofit now I guess. The builder just ran the wire through the earth and it's also under my concrete pool deck.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

They didn't run it through any type of rigid conduit? That will make the pull very difficult. I would hire a contractor to run conduit from the transformer to the light and also add a junction box in between so it's easier to replace lights in the future.

[@armandosantiago3771]

Excellent video. I'll be installing my own light after watching this.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I'm glad it helped. Good luck!

[@soundhammer2782]

Thanks!!! Planning on doing it myslef now, thanks to this video!!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

[@Beep_beep-pl7rd]

Don’t get electrocuted it’s rlly common with poolights

[@kimba10769]

I own my own pool service company… and I’ve had pool lights that have been in service for 20 years. If you clean the housing and the glass lens completely. You’ll be good. You really shouldn’t mislead people by telling them that once you open the light to replace the bulb and seal there’s a slim to no chance it’ll seal up. THATS WRONG ….

[@marckirby7356]

Me too..and never had one of my bulb replacements go bad. Ever. Not in 5 to 10 years anyway

[@jeffbguarino]

Yes , I replaced my bulbs a few times at two houses and replaced the gaskets. The old gaskets were leaving pieces on the metal ring and I cleaned that really well and I never had a leak.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I'm happy to hear of all the success of changing bulbs. It's just something we don't take on. If the client isn't interested in replacing the entire fixture where we can offer a warranty (unlike some comments here where they offer nothing but will replace the bulb (sorta doing a client a disservice, wouldn't you say??)) then we refer it out to someone who'll change the bulb.

[@jeffbguarino]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService I paid $65 for a company to do a service call to determine the bulb was probably burned out and it wasn't the GFCI. Then I paid another company $245 to change the bulb and they gave me a warranty , I think a couple of years. That was in March and I sold the house so, I don't really care about warranties. Then at my other house in Florida , I bought a bulb and 2 gaskets off Amazon for about $45 total and my guest just changed my bulb for me for free. It took him 15 minutes or less. If it burns out in a year , I don't care. I could change more that 6 bulbs for the price the pool company charges. Pure gouging on their part. I needed the bulb fixed quickly at my house for sale so I paid the robbers.

[@imaginitivity7853]

Given that people will be walking barefoot in this area, I'd be taking a great deal more care than these guys are with the wire strands they scatter all over, to say nothing of the risk of broken glass shards falling into the pool if that broken fixture was knocked over. Geez

[@justryd]

Have you ever had to replace the fixture housing? How would you go about doing that?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You can't do that because you'd have to cut off the SO cable going into the back of the fixture. No splicing allowed. You'd have to do a complete pull if the fixture is damaged.

[@thejaswal]

Thank you for the video.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thanks for watching! I appreciate it.

[@thevetsshow]

Wow.... this is great!!!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@jwstreambiz2554]

Great video. I feel I can do that myself now. Is any kind of insulation or sealant needed in the hole at the back of the light to make sure water from the pool doesn't come through the conduit and back to the electrical panel?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

None needed as long as the grommet in the back of the niche is in good shape. That, in and of itself, should seal up against the light conduit as it's pulled through!

[@1dluep]

a lot of pools in my area So CaL they plug the hole with epoxy or plaster or whatever and you usually have to drain the pool and clean it out first

[@generessler6282]

If the wire is too short, you can still use it to pull parachute cord fed in from the box end. Then use the cord to pull the new light cord. Duct tape is more reliable than electrical tape for a strong, smooth, quick joint.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

That's a great tip. Thanks for watching.

[@MrDavidljr29]

That’s called upselling bonuses right there! Next!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I know a lot of people disagree with me on here but I can't count how many times I see light niche's completely corroded because of failed attempts at replacing just the bulb. Sure, it can be done, but why have the possible headache lol

[@jamestucker3661]

Love the video. Lots of great info Seeing you strip the cable with a box cutter made me insanely nervous for your hand.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I'm glad it helped. We do it all the time and knock on wood haven't cut ourselves yet LOL. Thanks for watching.

[@richardsatterfield4222]

Thanks that helped out alot , I didn't see the link to the electricians channel thanks yall

[@jaspersy7482]

Love the info!! Nice tools looks brand new!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thanks for watching.

[@rldabomb33]

im a first time pool owner.. i have a question if water get into the bulb just like that can people in the pool get electricuted?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

With 12v you may feel a tingle. That's why 120v lights are starting to fade away so even if something does go wrong, it's only 12v vs 120v. Thanks for watching.

[@jessenunez8682]

Awesome video! Love the details explained

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

[@michaelkhalil628]

How do you locate the junction box for the light? I cannot find mine for the life of me. And shouldn't there be a switch to turn the light on and off?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Sometimes people bury them underground or other times the will run the pull straight to the transformer, which makes replacing the fixture much more difficult depending on the location in relation to the light.

[@rigbyspoolservices]

Great video, keep at it brother!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thanks for watching. I’m glad you liked it.

[@briangibson55]

How do you seal the conduit opening in the back of the light housing where the pool light secured that is below the water line?

[@AquaTech225]

You don’t have to. It don’t hurt to if you can. Some do some don’t. If it is if theirs any leak in the conduit it will keep the pool from leaking down to the level of the light. Most are always unsealed. Otherwise the water in the conduit isn’t an issue really it wind drain the pool down as long as theirs no leak in the conduit. The junction box is a few feet above the waterline so the pool water will never be able to reach the level to come out the box. Some of the light niches I’ve seen Silicone in during the install around the cord before it was installed an filled. Some have a rubber stopper that goes around the power cord and pushed into the hole the wire goes into in the niche and than a plastic nut is tightened down on that. Ofcourse that one the nut has to have the wire ran through it prior to pulling it. But the rubber plug has a slit that it can just place on the wire at any point. I’ve changed out hell at this point a couple hundred lights. I’m a Warranty center for one of the brands. 90% aren’t sealed at all so no worries on that

[@davidhuffines1574]

This is such horrible info. You absolutely need to seal the pipe. The reason the old cord is bad because water sat on it.lol shit show! You are definitely not a electrician!

[@scader]

@@davidhuffines1574 the excess cable behind the light inside the niche also rests in water...so I would presume the cable is designed to operate safely if submerged?

[@kylahs7]

@@scader I'd say so. I'm not sure what's up with David's disrespectful post.

[@captainedc]

@@davidhuffines1574 so how do you seal the pipe then smart guy ,?

[@nicholasvarro7382]

thank you guys!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re very welcome 😊

[@vickynoname9860]

Where do I find you guys? I am in Tampa and need mine replace. The entire fixture.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You can give the office a call at [phone] and Tiffany can get you set up with a service call.

[@vickynoname9860]

​@@ChlorineKingPoolService Thank you.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re welcome!!

[@ashb920]

Is there a video to connect the wire to the light and plug in the pipe and wire to light. Don’t think I saw there here. Thanks

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

No it can't be spliced if that's what you mean. I know of one company that has some type of waterproof splicing product, but I've never used it.

[@clevelandsumpter4388]

What is happening if my pool light comes on then trips the breaker. Do I need an electrician or pool light person. 2 years ago I had my pool refinished with new gunite.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

More than likely the light is bad. Either an electrician or licensed pool contractor should be able to help. Thanks for watching.

[@KurtBelyeu]

The fixture you are replacing, I have the same one. I need a new gasket, any idea what brand it is?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I'm sorry so much time has passed I forgot. I think it may have been a Pentair Ameriglo.

[@KurtBelyeu]

Its all good. I bought a new 12v light.@@ChlorineKingPoolService

[@jennyelliott9589]

If you have multiple lights that you want to change (I have 6, none work,) does each light run through its own conduit to the junction box?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes, you more than likely have a large Intermatic black junction box where all the lights are ran to.

[@pitmasterhog8726]

Correct me if I’m wrong. So there is always water sitting inside the conduit up to the water level of the pool?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes it's very possible (and likely) to have water sitting up in the conduit to the level of the water in the pool/spa.

[@_1ben]

was the green bonding cable or ground that attaches to the niche that will be in the conduit when you pull a concern ?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

The niche is bonded in the back with the pool rebar/equipment which wasn't shown in this video. The green in the video was the ground for the actual light since it has a metal housing/ring.

[@c.kegger5978]

Nice video. I’m having trouble finding a light just like the one in this video (12v) with a 15’-20’ lead on it. Do you have a link you could share? Or does the fixture matter if I change the bulb to a 12v led which I already had and was using until the GFCI breaker began tripping. I just put a new 12v transformer in and I get my 12v at the junction box behind the niche, but get nothing when testing the socket in the fixture. So, I’m guessing the fixture or wire is bad from the niche to the box. Also do you have a good way of removing the plug material around the cord in the niche? Can’t really tell exactly what it is but I’m unable to pull the wire. Any help is appreciated

[@xiongfa2152]

you'll probably not find a light with shorter than a 50' cord. some years ago the manufacturer's stopped making the 30' corded lights and usually just make 50 and 100's.

[@el-uno]

What if the wire doesn’t pull through. Any suggestions if it’s stuck?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Any idea where it's stuck or is it as soon as you start trying to pull the light?

[@el-uno]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService nevermind I got it. I needed another person to sort of play tug o war with. Eventually it loosened up and we were able to slowly pull it through. I think the cable was bonded to the conduit. I used some dish soap to help. Thanks for the timely reply

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

@el-uno I’m glad you got it sorted!

[@sewerswan8422]

Happy Easter brother

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thanks brother you too. Not sure how I didn't see this... LOL

[@CHD2046]

Do you need to add silicone into the conduit in the niche around the cable? Thanks

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

No you don’t have too. There’s a rubber grommet/gasket that seals against the conduit/cable. Thanks for watching.

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

Thanks. I have a 120V 400W Pentair Amerilite that has leakage and trips the GFCI. Install has about 35 ft of 1" PVC conduit. Not sure if Sched 40 or Sched 80 conduit. I have purchased a new 12V 300 watt 50 ft cord Pentair Amerilite from dealer stock. I plan to install a 300W transformer, but will likely install a LED bulb. Questions : 1) Is the cord size much different than what was furnished with 400W 120V versus 300W 12V? I am wondering how hard the pull will be. 2) Can you recommend any LED white bulbs that are in the 2500-3000 Lumen range and preferably warm white light? Can you recommend reliable white LEDs? 3) Have you used any dimmers on the primary of a 300W transformer and have the LED's tolerated the dimmer? 4) Can I reuse the new gasket from factory when I swap bulbs or am I asking for trouble?

[@heynow01]

Me too, except I think I'm staying with a new 120v with an led bulb. The damn thing is close to $400 with a incandescent bulb. The a led bulb is gonna run another $30-$50. Crazy prices!

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

@@heynow01 I would seriously consider buying a 12V , even a 100W R20 version and 100W transformer and LED bulb. I found that the GFCI is not protection enough. Lightning caused my GFCI to fail unsafe putting voltage into the water. I found a 300W 12V 50ft R40 bulb model EC-602129. New old stock, open box for $250, free shipping. on ebay. Seller PSTpools. I think they have more. It arrived yesterday and looks perfect. Reason I went with 300W model is that if in future next buyer wants 300W incandescent they can just screw it in. Trust me you don't want to rely on a GFCI to save your life in a pool. The 12V conversion gets transformer isolation, A copper barrier to ground inside the transformer and then the GFCI. So really much safer.

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

@@heynow01 You would be many times safer in converting to 12V. The GFCI simply is not enough protection on 120V. Using a 12V transformer provides two extra layers. The magnetic isolation, as well as copper shield to ground. If the transformer fails, which is very unlikely, then the GFCI will take over.

[@heynow01]

@@rhyoliteaquacade Well, it trips as designed because the socket or wire has a high resistance short to ground. And although I do like the idea of a 12v DC light, the current light lasted 36 years trouble free. And spending over a grand for the 12 VDC set up, is not what I can do right now.

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

@@heynow01 Mine lasted 36 years from 1986 until the lightning ruined the wire, 2 1/2 years ago on tax day. Upgrading to 12V now because these Amerilites will no longer be available very soon.

[@rhondamattice4453]

Is there a link to that new pool light assembly?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Here you go! www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/pool-spa-equipment/pool-lighting/amerlite.html

[@Gourockian1]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService That link seems to only be for 120v lights.

[@TrueMonkeyNinja]

My pool light is out embedded into the wier and has no screws. Can’t turn it, no outer casing etc… how do I change it??? It’s an old Poolmaid setup…

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

As in the ring was plastered over?

[@TrueMonkeyNinja]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService Yes, I think so. It just looks like someone put black glue or plaster over it to stick it in there.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

@@TrueMonkeyNinja then it's a job I would pass on, especially if it's plaster. If it's plastered over and you start to chip it out it's very possible you could take a longer chunk than you wanted and then the client will be looking at you to repair it. I'd refer it back to the installer of the light or the builder. The risk is not worth the reward with this one.

[@TrueMonkeyNinja]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService I see… We had to have our pool repaired from a crack and the team said the weir has to be replaced because of the way the light is installed but it was an extra 10k so didn’t do it… I think this thing was installed maybe 50+ years ago? It’s an old house so I can’t contact anyone and was going to try fix it myself. Is there no way I could just pull out the plaster and light, and then replace it and seal it with something? All while underwater, because if the water level goes below the light the pool risks cracking…

[@kgmd000]

I noticed you wrapped all three bare wires, together and touching, with electrical tape. Is that the correct and safe way to do it or would one have to wrap the wires with electrical tape separately so they are not touching.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes that was just to pull the light through. That is not something you'd want to apply power to with all of them touching. Thanks for watching.

[@lazhernandez834]

If you pull the entire new cable through you don’t need to do any bonding correct?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Correct. The niche should be bonded already. Just make sure you make a good ground connection.

[@stephenz99]

What is keeping the pool from draining out of the new cable hole????? What is keeping it from draining out?????

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

There's a grommet in the back of the niche where the cable passes through the niche. However, if you think about it... the conduit comes from the back of the niche and goes up above the level of the pool. So even if the grommet failed the water would sit in the conduit up to the point of the pool's water level. It should never leak out though. The only time I've seen the light cause a leak is if it leaks behind the niche, or there is a complete separation of the grommet from the back of the niche. I hope this helps.

[@Ava8766Minecraft]

These are some hunky pool boys!!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Haha thanks.

[@ervanrami]

That “cloth” you removed is exactly for that purpose, tie them together for more strength in pulling

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes, but easier to remove in the place we were making up the connection between the two lights.

[@butterflygirl2285]

What is the next step when you can't pull the wiring out of the juncture box? In other words when pulling on the wire it is stuck firmly.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

There’s not a whole lot you can do there. More than likely the deck settled and crushed the conduit. Also check inside the light niche where the cable passes through. Very possible there’s some putty or hydraulic cement there attempted to stop a leak. If that’s the case you should be able to chip it out and then replace the light.

[@butterflygirl2285]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService That is why my husband is worried. In the worst case scenario wouldn't we have to pull out the old patio decking, create a new wiring trench to the junction box, etc?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Correct yes. You’d have to pull the deck up and rebuild the conduit then reinstall the deck.

[@butterflygirl2285]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService Thank you.

[@LuisRodriguez-py4un]

The video stopped playing around 21:15. Good video up to that point.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Hey Luis try watching again. I checked on numerous computers, tablets and iPhones and it goes all the way through.

[@AquaTech225]

That’s not always true. I’m a warranty center least for pentair and if the lights are within atleast 3 years. Even longer. The light repair kits come with the new gaskets. I’ve personally opened many lights an only had one leaked after the fact. That was on me though rushing not paying attention an threw the gasket in the wrong direction when they transition from the older single piece seal to the newer one with the extra oring inside of the gasket. Other than that none have leaked after fixing. Normally even a person horrible at keeping the chemistry in check don’t run into enough corrosion to make the seal not work. Every once in a while some people right at start up had a pathetic pool school an let alkalinity get so low it eats everything up pool heater installed an all. But 9/10 it’s not a big thing to replace the internal led light board or bulb.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

While I agree with you I just don't want to have to have that possible call back. If the client wants just the bulb replaced I generally just refer it out.

[@AquaTech225]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService typically I do also. But let them make the call. Sometimes replacing is cheaper in the long run

[@Gmoney1019]

@@AquaTech225 The true is, how much can you charge for changing a light bulb vs replacing a pool light. Obviously there is no money in changing the light bulb, but we all know that you can perfectly replace it following the procedure established by the manufacturers. But, hey we are to make money, right?

[@mattmatt222333]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService bruh I charge $125 to change the bulb. Also I stipulate that there is no warranty or guarantee. You're leaving money on the table. When they call back, sell them the new fixture...

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I’m a warranty station as well for both Pentair and Jandy. Using the same 9 out of 10 stat they have me replace the entire fixture.

[@mbushen]

How do you seal the hole the wire passes through at the back of the niche?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Well you could use pool putty if it's leaking there.

[@mbushen]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService How can it not leak, it's under water!!!

[@Maxis196]

@@mbushen it is a sealed conduit that has an opening above water level. unless the conduit has a crack there shouldn't be a leak

[@mbushen]

Maxis196 So then the conduit must normally fill with water (up to the same level as the pool. I didn’t know that was acceptable.

[@williamnaman3570]

Put waterproof clear seal between the glass and the housing. If the alternative is spending $300+. The wiring insulation should never move no matter how damaged by chlorine. Visual inspection and gentle handling should be enough to maintain integrity. My light assembly may be from 1967. It looks just like the replacement in this video. The wire is grey.

[@Beep_beep-pl7rd]

5:16 there have been tons of stories of people getting electrocuted by pool lights

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes typically with 120v lights. I have yet to see a 120v light here in my area in almost 10 years.

[@andybrody]

That is a 120v light?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

No 12v.

[@tlferro]

Thank you so much. I think I can do this now

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re very welcome. Good luck.

[@mariagents9575]

How much does something like that cost

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

It really depends on what type of light and how long of a pull. Anywhere from $850-$1500 for a new light pulled through.

[@tatumspallino4440]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService including the cost of the light? Great video as always!!

[@michaellenihan3611]

(1) Does not the NEC require an approved Swimming Poll Junction Box rather than a standard weather proof box? (2) I prefer to solder the copper cable wires when connecting old pool light cable to the new cable.

[@rubenscott3972]

Nice

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thank you!

[@Maxis196]

holy shit that was the ezest pull ive ever seen.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Isn’t that the truth? Couldn’t believe it lmao.

[@Redarius80]

24 Pool businesses disagree 😂

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Hahaha. That made my day!

[@FrontlineNewsToday]

The prior pool guy that replaced the light did a shi**y job with ensuring the gasket was tightened.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

I’m sorry to hear that! That’s why we don’t get into it. It’s just easier and a guaranteed fix. Plus, they’ll get a much longer warranty.

[@kennethm.380]

These guys are basically liars. It’s like saying when your lamp goes out you need to throw it out. The gasket should be replaced but then it does its job.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

If, and a BIG IF, the gasket is installed correctly. We’ve tried bulbs in the past. Have you ever seen the metal of the light where the gasket meets the glass bubbles up and gets so rough over time so it doesn’t create a great seal because of the deterioration? We have. So just replacing the bulb sometimes isn’t an option. Just like the case in this video. If someone doesn’t want to replace the entire fixture we refer it out to someone who will take on the risk of replacing the bulb. It’s just a liability that my company doesn’t care to take on. Pick and choose your battles. The clients we replace lights are well aware of each option and there’s no pressure from us. Liars huh? That’s a pretty stupid comment wouldn’t you say? I guess because that’s a stupid comment then it only makes sense you’re basically stupid. 😂🤣😂 We never said it’s the only way to fix a light. It’s just the way we do it so we can offer a much longer warranty and not worry about it leaking. Why do you think warranty replacements are for the full fixture and not just the bulb? Makes you wonder huh? 🤔 Thanks for watching though. Edit: Grammar

[@rhyoliteaquacade]

If the cord is that old, you are on borrowed time, especially on a 120V system. The housing has a temperature sensor bonded to it. If it gets wet and corrodes, the assembly is toast. Also the cord that comes with the housing is not replaceable. You cannot buy the parts of the housing or cord separately nor find a part number or any specifications. It is all trade secret. If it is a 12V system and you are an electrician, you can probably make it work, replace the cord and a gland nut. But the temperature sensor may be a problem. I have a 35 year old Amerilite and only now replacing it with same. I have not even had to change the 400W bulb in the 18 years I have been here. I am nervous about LED's though.

[@boomskis4926]

This dude really charging $1000 to replace a light?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Depending on which light, how far the pull, etc. Yes, some even go up to $1500 for a color changing LED light. That’s the “standard” pricing around my area. I know of companies that charge more than that.

[@boomskis4926]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService great to know thanks! Definitely gonna raise my price next time I get a light job

[@tatumspallino4440]

@@boomskis4926 me too!! I have a guy calling asking for 4 lights. How do you charge for multiples?

[@kimba10769]

I noticed that when someone’s asks a very technical question you don’t answer. Wonder Why? Your taking money outta the pockets of legit service companies. With all these people wanting to do it Themselves. Thanks

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Because I don’t have time to answer everyone’s question that posts technical or not. Check my other videos. I answer very technical questions Thanks for watching.

[@professorhoratiohufnagel1341]

My pool man quoted my $2900 to replace my 3 lights with LED. I said “Are you crazy?” Then I asked how much for halogen replacement he said around $1800. I can afford a pool but I can’t afford lights for them. 🤦🏼 Is that not insane? I feel like he’s totally trying to rip me off.

[@randyschiffer3265]

Bang, that's about right. I'm having 2 lights and wiring done on mine to LED and it's 1500.00

[@mattmatt222333]

Sounds like a fair price to me. Easy way to tell is do your job as home owner and get multiple quotes

[@kevinodonnell6460]

Have you experienced replacement fixtures where there was a wire grommet seal that needs to be removed first? My wire does not pull. Had a fish run from deck box and appears to go all the way to the fixture but doesn't poke through. Called Pentair and they mentioned wires could be fastened by a Grommet seal. Cant seem to find much videos or experiences with these grommets. I did find this link www.propools.com/Manuals/52505_20141212111924.pdf ..... so if there is a Grommet and needs to be pulled out first, does the water then need to be drained below the niche....

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Someone possibly put pool putty on the niche where the cable passes through to maybe stop a leak? That's the only thing I could guess. I've also seen conduit crushed underground where no matter what you do it won't budge, short of tearing up the deck, finding the spot where it's crushed, then fixing it. I hope this helps.

[@moez1774]

Thank y You for the detailed video

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re very welcome.