Swiss & German Watches: A 1-to-1 Comparison

[@velviaman3206]

After buying my first Nomos 10 years ago I have just bought my second, a Nomos Orion. Simple and elegant, just my style.

[@watchartsci]

Congratulations on your new Nomos, Velvia Man ... I really like the Orion! Take care, Bill

[@velviaman3206]

@@watchartsci Thanks , I did one of your famous deals, 25% off from an AD who is no longer stocking the brand.

[@watchartsci]

@@velviaman3206 Whoaaa! Great going VM!

[@firefighterps2]

Love this video Bill, thank you. So many beautiful timepieces. I have a real soft spot for Day Dates, particularly in white gold and a blue dial, but the JLC is also beautiful. Really enjoyed this. Thank you.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Phil, I have only 1 day/date ... it's my Harry Winston Premier Retrograde ... the day-of-week is on one of the retrogrades and the month-day is in a window. Lots of great ones out there! Take care, Bill

[@canadianwatchmonkey3992]

Thanks Bill for some great information. I picked up a Christopher ward C1 Malvern small seconds with the SH21 in-house movement. It was a fantastic deal at $700 Canadian or $560 usd. including shipping.

[@watchartsci]

Hey WM! I was just looking at a C1 Morgan SH21 ... great buys. Sounds like you did get a great deal way better than MSRP! Where was it at that price? Take care, Bill

[@canadianwatchmonkey3992]

@@watchartsci a member of mid tier facebook group seen my add searching for the CW 595 and offered his C1 malvern up. It found me lol. cw has huge sales in January often 50% off. make sure to get on the CW mailing list!

[@watchartsci]

@@canadianwatchmonkey3992 Thanks man!

[@cedshred1676]

As always, a fun selection of cool watches.

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Ced ... it was a lot of fun for me too! I especially liked the Calibre de Cartier Diver ... just surprised me to find a watch like that by Cartier. Take care, Bill

[@1115asmara]

I always learn something. Thanks Bill.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Asmara! Thanks man! Take care, Bill

[@theverbalremedy]

I feel you missed the obvious Lange vs Patek comparison at the higher end of finishing and features... perhaps it could be a video in itself!

[@watchartsci]

Hey VB, I thought I indicated that I was leaving out watches relying on silicon for their escapements and hairsprings. Or did I not mention that? Take care, Bill

[@theverbalremedy]

@@watchartsci Apologies, i must have missed that caveat. Would still love to see your take on Lange vs Patek models. From Saxonia/Calatrava to Datograph, Perpetual calendars, finishing, complexity etc...

[@watchartsci]

@@theverbalremedy It's become very difficult to compare Patek with A. Lange & Söhne, as the former has gone to silicon and the latter has become part of the Richemont group where they seem to look with askance at too much creativity and are not opposed to taking shortcuts for profit.(These are two brands I dearly love, and my first entry into HH was my Patek Philippe Calatrava ... pre-silicon) Take care, Bill

[@gilbertombp]

Your picks are always top notch, Bill. The Lange Odysseus and Cartier Diver really caught my eye!

[@watchartsci]

Of all of those watches the Calibre de Cartier Diver was the biggest surprise for me, Gilberto. I found one for $3,813 on C24 from a Japanese seller-they list new for $7,500. Lots of good deals on that watch with an in-house movement by an award-winning watchmaker. My kind of deal! Take care, Bill

[@kojiattwood]

Am I correct in thinking that the Odysseus is the only Lange that has the option of being in steel? And as an aside, no one that I know (even some of the friends in the upper horology pecking order) has actually seen one in person, so it must be quite popular, despite the negativity upon its initial release.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Koji, I'm not sure if the Odysseus is the only steel option of AL&S or not. Check their Saxonia and 1815 lines ... might have one in steel, but I really don't know. Hope to see one at the WatchTime Show in NYC this October (if they still hold it). Take care, Bill

[@silphium]

Bill, your videos are inspired. Do you have a watchmaker you could recommend for servicing?

[@watchartsci]

I have my 85 yr. old watchmaker in West Hartford, Connecticut who does my service, but both my Parmigiani and F.P. Journes went to the brands' service centers in Miami. Probably your best best to ask your local watch shop about service. Take care, Bill

[@garyboyle695]

The Rolex day date just does not flow together. The fluted bezel does not match or compliment the bracelet. It just looks like it was designed by committee.

[@watchartsci]

Next to that AL&S, it does suffer by comparison Gary. Take care, Bill

[@patrickcannady2066]

Love that Lange Odysseus.

[@watchartsci]

I do too Patrick; however, for some reason that model was very unpopular among AL&S fans. I like the bold day/dates at 9 & 3. Take care, Bill

[@TimG--]

Well done Bill

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Tim! Take care, Bill

[@wingkintang7257]

can the nomos be called a dive watch ? Do not have the necessary markings and unidirectional bezel?

[@watchartsci]

I was thinking the same thing Wing. But how many people with a Rolex Sub actually go diving with it? Take care, Bill

[@richardsims4717]

Like the off piste watch trips.Saludos from Spanish inferno Bill.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Richard! Which Spanish inferno would that be? Take care, Bill

[@blueshirtbuddah1665]

Another great review Bill thanks 🙏!

[@watchartsci]

Thanks Bruce! I only have 1 German watch ... so far. You have any on the horizon? Take care, Bill

[@almeladze]

I have the Zenith with a GMT feature. On the other hand, IWC Big Pilots do not have a 2nd time zone. Just my 2 cents

[@watchartsci]

Alexander, is the movement in your Zenith an Elite? Do you know the caliber? The "heritage" pilot watches like the Big Pilot from both IWC and Zenith have no 'Zulu' time ... but the big crowns are fun! Take care, Bill

[@almeladze]

@@watchartsci Elite Dual Time Calibre 693. Yes they are)

[@Daveyboyz1978]

Good content Bill. Some interesting pieces, keep up the good work.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Daveyboyz! Thanks man! Take care, Bill

[@Alex-zr4yl]

Thanks, another informative video. Cheers from Italy. A big fan.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Alex, thanks man! My pleasure! Take care, Bill

[@camillecosc765]

Wonderful video Bill, as always! One question that need you knowledge: is there any « affordable » (or at least the less expensive) watch with a constant force mechanism out here (with fusee&chain, remontoir, or any other kind of mechanism to obtain constant force) ? Thank you! Cheers from France!

[@watchartsci]

Christopher, nothing that I've been able to find, but at least I know what to look for. Take care, Bill

[@camillecosc765]

@@watchartsci and what do you think of the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force ? Is it really a kind of constant force mechanism ?

[@watchartsci]

@@camillecosc765 Very interesting watch and full of innovations with a price that's not on the far side of the moon! I like the detailed description of the watch in the GPHG entry - www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/gravity-equal-force-stainless-steel Take care, Bill

[@Javi_C]

Great comparisons Dr.! Out of curiosity, what do you think of the new F.P.Journe FFC Blue with the literal blue hands!? 😀

[@watchartsci]

Hey Javi! Thanks hombre!! Take care, Bill

[@Javi_C]

@@watchartsci Thoughts on the new F.P. Journe?

[@ga9d]

Up with the chickens today Bill. Great analysis.

[@watchartsci]

Our neighbors have chickens (and goats!) and we all get up together! The rooster thinks he's an alarm clock! Take care, Bill

[@AbdulRWatches]

Awesome video Bill, and I think you know my opinion on that topic :D I just love the clean and more engineering look of German watches, but there is a different elegance to swiss watches as well.

[@watchartsci]

I suppose the extreme stretch would be between Bovet and Nomos, Abdul, but both have a good deal of range and overlap. Take care, Bill

[@AbdulRWatches]

@@watchartsci Agree Bill, I have a Nomos, and have been snipping for a Bovet to add before they also explode in popularity like almost everything else 😁

[@scottdavis5251]

Interesting idea and great video. Although the Montblanc company is German, the watches are made in Switzerland. Says it right on the dial.

[@watchartsci]

You're right Scott. I decided that the German-owned watchmaking in Switzerland counted as German ... just my call. Here's a good run-down on the Montblanc watchmaking in both Le Locle and Villeret: timeandtidewatches.com/insight-a-visit-to-montblancs-le-locle-and-villeret-watchmaking-factories/ Take care, Bill

[@almeladze]

That Montblanc says Swiss Made on the dial

[@watchartsci]

Your are right Alexander ... it's complicated. Montblanc is headquartered in Hamburg, but it has watchmaking workshops in both Le Locle and Villeret (they're only about 26km apart ... La Chaux-de-Fonds is about halfway between the two towns.) After Richemont bought Montblanc, they also bought Minerva in Villeret, and more or less let Minerva be the high-end movement maker for Montblanc. So while, Montblanc's main watchmaking has been Le Locle, they have access the the entire Minerva watchmaking facility in Villeret. This article explains ( timeandtidewatches.com/insight-a-visit-to-montblancs-le-locle-and-villeret-watchmaking-factories/ ) So why would I include Montblanc as 'German' when they have their watchmaking facilities in Switzerland? Basically, if the movement maker is part of a German company as are the Montblanc facilities in Le Locle, then they can be considered German. On the other hand, if Montblanc purchases their movements from ETA (as they did at one time) or Vaucher Manufacturer Fleurier (VMF), they are considered Swiss. This was my call, and anyone could argue that the movements are really Swiss ... especially since it says so right on the watch! Take care, Bill

[@aldoalcazar6525]

Why is silicon bad ?

[@watchartsci]

Aldo, silicon's not bad. In fact it works far better than traditional metals. Smart watches aren't bad either, and they work better than any mechanical watch... and they're full of silicon. Silicon is a metalloid, and I find the watches with adjustable hairsprings (silicon is too brittle to be adjusted) more to my liking. Come to think of it, quartz watches aren't bad either. We've just chosen more traditional watch craftsmanship. Take care, Bill

[@aldoalcazar6525]

I understand you point of view.

[@fewescideas]

Hey, Bill, nice vid !...greetings from Belgrade!

[@watchartsci]

Hey Mirko, what kind of watches are popular in Belgrade? Years ago, my folks visited Belgrade and really enjoyed it. Take care, Bill

[@fewescideas]

@@watchartsci ...mostly a small group of people is in high horology, as everywhere Rolex mostly, rarely anyone goes deeper into the rabbit hole :)

[@juniorjohnson5961]

Bill we think you're Extra Special !

[@watchartsci]

Hey Junior, as long as the grandkids think so, I'm good! Thanks man! Take care, Bill

[@apathyboy5306]

German watches are just that bit more strong and masculine in design. Swiss more elegant and feminine. Also f*** silicone - was it the Damasko dk32 the pilot you found with the movement full of silicone? I often wish that a German manufactured rival to ETA/ Seilita would spring up and start supplying the German brands

[@watchartsci]

I really like Damasko, AB, but they saved money and improved accuracy with silicon; so, not interested. The German's UWD 31.1 could be the German ETA 2892 except hand-wound and 10x better! If L&H/UWD could get the unit price down, it could dominate ... but will they? Not likely. Take care, Bill

[@jackchueh1231]

That Cartier diver looks hideous as a owner and fan of Cartier. That JLC is pure sex…

[@watchartsci]

Indeed, Jack, I didn't think a Cartier fan would like their Diver one bit. Take care, Bill