Talk Story: Greg Noll

Listening to Greg Noll describe his harrowing 1964 outer reef experience, a vanguard charge far beyond Pipeline’s breakers, his words aren’t the only thing that grab you. All those dates and distances and sizes and numbers become mere minutiae in the overall delivery of one of surfing’s most animated and gregarious legends. From the body language and hand gestures to the expletives and sound effects, Noll becomes absolutely possessed by his memories. Which makes it all so believable. Complete his reflection with Bud Browne’s classic archival footage, and you’ve got something truly extraordinary.
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[@rmoon01]

Learned about Greg Noll from Riding Giants. He reminds of me of men from my Grandpa's time, WW2 times, with all the strength and dignity they possessed. An adventurer, a charger, devoted to fun. Definitely inspiring.

[@WayneLynch69]

His autobiography tells of an incident north of San Fran Bay when he owned a fishing boat. Late at night a swell lifted up his boat which he said was his most frightening moments in the ocean. He tells it in a very sobering way.

[@calfolk7381]

I think it was an excerpt from his book, in Malibu 1994, when I asked him to autograph it, he wrote, “when your gut says no way brah, don’t drop in at Waimea”.

[@andross51]

Greg Noll will always be remembered as arguably one of the BEST old school surfers of all time! May he RIP!

[@joeblow1942]

Arguably.

[@harryknackers7892]

"One of the best old school surfers" WTF kind of shit is that?

[@joeblow1942]

@@harryknackers7892 Well, I would say he was a BIG WAVE pioneer.

[@andross51]

@@harryknackers7892 lol you obviously don't know who Greg Noll was! One of the GREATEST surfers from the 1950's-60s! So in this case "old school"! What are you a stupid kid lol?

[@harryknackers7892]

@@andross51 No, you are a condescending, presumptuous jackass. Knoll is one of the greatest SURFERS of all time - no qualifiers needed.

[@AlleyTrashBoards]

Absolute legend!!! RIP Greg and much respect to the family. 🌺🌺🌺🤙🏽

[@Elexmage]

I bought my first custom board from Greg at his shop on Kapiolani in ‘66. He showed me the lineup at Makaha on a huge day. RIP to Da Bull.

[@r.g.3636]

thank you for the interview..... he was truly a surfing legend and so classic,, i just loved his persona he just said it like it is, no b.s.....❤️

[@lucasmccoytoledogangemi5205]

Rip Greg Noll. I remember when you and your sons asked me and my friend to sing girl from Ipanema on your 70th bday. I was so shy lol

[@MrWinger1951]

I started surfing in the 1960's and one of the major influencers on all of surfing was Greg Noll. He was a unique personality and always gung-ho on his approach to big wave surfing. A true legend. Thanks for posting this short interview with him.

[@tomweyandt8741]

Surfing Legend Da Bull!!! All Time Classic surf cat!!! Much Love & Respect!!!

[@goldbeachsurfer]

My biggest surf hero....so glad to have met him and his son Jed...Grew up looking up to him.

[@aquasight1019]

Ha! "I'm a shitty swimmer...", and yet he's still out there! That takes confidence & courage! Greg will be missed.

[@007artimus]

“I dog paddled in for over an hour”. What a determined beast.

[@jett7499]

Will miss him. Loved him as a kid. Had photos on my walls of him surfing. A real legend.

[@hg1651]

I am very happy that we have so many interviews with the old guys.

[@jrhamp]

Went to Pier Avenue Elementary School. the play field was across from Greg Noll Surf shop. Just down the street towards Redondo Beach was a Porsche dealership. Over the years that follow, I bought a board from Noll and a Porsche from the dealer. Fond memories...

[@golds04]

No tow in. No vests. No go pro. No sponsors. Just guts determination and joy- surfing old school. Missed - the real deal in prison shorts.

[@djsurf]

a surfing legend - love them jailhouse trunks - saw greg a couple years ago at the surf expo - again a surfing legend - a real man -

[@capodad2u]

Truly a legend watch him in "ride the wild surf" as surf stunt double for younger mitchum.

[@richardconner1283]

GREG NOLL AS A TEENAGER PADDLED FROM CATALINA ISLAND TO LONG BEACH,26 MILES.HE WAS ONE OF THE BEST CONDITIONED ATHLETES EVER..RIP GREG.

[@ianbarker219]

This guy inspires me in more ways than many….and I’m not a surfer, I just play guitar.

[@phillipsteiner3581]

Greg Noll will always be remembered as a big wave stud!!

[@joedirt8625]

@Surfline Noll Family Respect. Anytime.....Bring it.

[@joshuaflores1990]

Not only a great surfer, but a great human being who has served humanity. We should measure ourselves by people like this.

[@guss1672]

I will truly miss this man!

[@tonysmario817]

never be another greg noll. catch you on the other side, legend!

[@AlanShirtsink]

He was such a great storyteller

[@iwashpowercleaning7724]

Aloha to Great People Like Greg, the great of greats... inspirational seeing that photo. We thank you for the legacy....

[@superorangeish]

...and that's how Legends roll.

[@fernandomaron87]

I've surfed today wearing my black & white striped shorts as a tribute to Da Bull

[@christopherliston2371]

That's awesome!

[@wmpopper]

Legend in His Time...admired and known from thousands of miles away.

[@rodneysimoes6949]

Vai com Deus irmão !!!! Obrigado por tudo!!!! Se não fossem vcs, o surf não seria o que e hj...

[@pwayne3580]

Wtf!? May Da Bull and the black and white trunks Rest In Peace.

[@sapgeek1]

Rip legend! Mahalo for charging.

[@harveymushman2219]

4:35 in is epic....Greg Noll Legend....I know a little of what he is talking about...Southern Calif back in 1969 or so huge waves rolling in ..me and a friend were crazy enough to paddle out...we finally go outside and could see way over there we were way way past the pier...people on the beach looked like ants....going down the backside of a wave rolling in was scary as hell looking at ya..up..up ..up you go..Ya made it ..your board is airborne then slaps down on the backside of that wave and it's raining on you and a strong wind on your face...you hear the roar of that wave peeling off...Ya ...No...I am not going inside that breaker...sat way way outside for over an hour then decide might as well die today...I caught mine....huge...never even tried to stand up...board was slapping out a tune on that wave I never heard it sing before...white water caught me I was hanging on like a gorilla...made my bottom turn laying on my belly...I was 16 years old and I had seen all I wanted of huge waves ....Much Respect for Greg Noll...He loved Jazz music I asked him that question at a surf movie they had made...

[@romcallis]

Greg was a big guy. Surprised he lived well into his 80 s. Guess surfing is good for your health

[@newglorydays-yu6bb]

Legend RIP. I can't believe it but I also can.

[@SlickRick4EVER]

His spirit is with Waiamea.

[@pauloferreira5285]

rip Greg love from Rio Brazil.

[@user-di1hh4qy6r]

RIP Brother.

[@joshuasurridge52]

RIP Greg Noll

[@boredCoy]

Legend!!

[@josttyn]

What is the song name from surfer blood at the end of the video?

[@ashleyminugh2331]

Iconic

[@andreweaves7975]

RIP Bull

[@gilbertanthonyperea5236]

You da'kind Bra.

[@CJOMEDIA]

RIP LEGEND

[@jaykulina9386]

Rip Greg

[@zackkelp3331]

Legend

[@liquidwarriors6793]

LEGEND !

[@djsurf]

my last comment - gonna wear my Birdwell black and white 'jailhouse' board shorts this weekend at the break -

[@greedygreggor]

legend

[@PR-qo5cn]

This man could talk story. RIP to the bull, say hey to Andy for us

[@tucko11]

Legend 🤙

[@yellowpepito8523]

Eternal love

[@nicholaseachus5937]

R.i.p

[@richardhopkins1000]

🌊

[@03greedoslime87]

Wow 🤩 rip

[@joeblow1942]

All these years I thought that picture was of makaha.

[@djsurf]

just saw he moved on - gregnollthelegend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -

[@mikthe2004]

I wonder if these old timers would try to surf Mavericks, or Nazare, or some of the slab type waves that guys charge now??

[@waynehearst317]

RIP, Bull.

[@user-tf5nz3yo9i]

If you haven’t read “da bull” yet,read it soon

[@johnkordulak3897]

Nooooooo….RIP💪💪❤️🙏

[@lechlerguttersllc9553]

RIP 🤘😔🤘

[@asyouratty13]

RIP Da Bull

[@brennanbets]

3rd reef pipeline?

[@francisboulerice5344]

RIP 🙌🙌

[@VisionEmerald]

⚡️

[@QU1RKONE]

RIP

[@GoBirds808]

Hope you drop into heaven on a 50 footer! Aloha to uncle Eddie!

[@MasterGuero]

1 38

[@michaelpanagiotis7109]

Manhattan Beach LocaL Boy !

[@nathansumner5905]

im # 420 like

[@shaunwhite8332]

studs

[@ozzynmyrtle]

RIP