Tamiya 1/48 F-14A Top Gun Build Part 4: Decals n Stuff

In this episode, I get the decals on, apply a clear coat, and explain what types of panel line washes I use.

[@johnmattioli9077]

I love all of your videos but I have really enjoyed the F-14A videos as I stay at home in the safety on my modeling room. Thanks!

[@ianjackson7515]

I've been modelling for more years than I care to recall - I bought my first Windsor & Newton oils (Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Paynes Grey & Zinc White) over twenty-five years ago and am still using those original tubes today... and I build a lot of models !! If folks have difficulty getting hold of Abteilung 502 oils - we can't get them here in New Zealand - then Windsor & Newtons are just as good if not better in my experience. All the best from NZ.

[@jrex9199]

Man, looks so good! Your kits allways do. I've got this kit on deck & watching your videos will cirtainly help. Thank you

[@nackdibby7960]

Sittin here holed up in my office getting over the 'Rona and going through some of your older videos and WOW! Still so much to learn from the Zen master of model making! Haven't found a video yet I haven't learned something completely new or haven't enjoyed! Wishing you all well! Cheers!

[@seanerk5kt9]

Hope you get better soon…I had the rona and it hung on for a couple of weeks. I’ll be putting out some new stuff soon.

[@nackdibby7960]

@@seanerk5kt9 Awesome! On the back side of it! Thank you for your well wishes and always looking forward to your new content!

[@MottysMilitaryModels]

Hi mate, what another fine job you've done. I quite often use a pin with a very very fine tip to try and get rid of the silvering I then use some strong Daco or Ultimate decal solutions. I then usually leave it for the next day to dry and work. I love this method of yours. Hope you are all OK over there. Please stay safe mukka

[@seanerk5kt9]

Thanks buddy! I hope your doin well also my friend.

[@nudzi]

You are my daily inspiration :-) Love to watch your work. You are one of the top modellers out there :-)

[@stevethefishdotnet]

I love that red mug!

[@leroymcgee6803]

Another EXCELLENT video - I always learn something from you. Never thought about using sprue goo to attach/glue things - what a great idea.

[@DonbAyers]

Hey Sean just FYI. The floor care product you show has changed. Looks like it’s new packaging is Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss

[@Rob-tq5ym]

thanks for the best tip ever. the hairdryer for the decals worked great on my 1/24 hellcat.

[@seanerk5kt9]

Hell yeah!

[@DonbAyers]

Thanks so much for sharing your clear coat details

[@neilharrison1420]

thank you so much for sharing.

[@finishmodels68]

Just to say thank you! I learned a lot... for a while try to have detail on technic step by step with detail of product associate to the technic! From Mirabel, Québec (near Montréal)

[@LSUtiger607]

Thank you for helping us all out and for taking time out to make these videos. Regarding Future, do you sand it after application? Does it orange peel? What’s the best way to blend the carrier film into the paint job and avoid the “step” of thicker decals?

[@seanerk5kt9]

It doesn’t give the best glossy finish, at least I haven’t figured out how to get it completely smooth. I typically just use it as an inexpensive protective coat over decals and oil work and on models that are going to eventually be flat coated. Therefore I’ve never tried to sand it but I’m guessing you could. I do t get too worked up over blending in thicker decals, so I can’t help ya on that one either. I know Will Pattison has shown how he takes care of that issue on his channel. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help

[@bobdyer422]

Aluminum pan w/water on a plate warmer? Are you going for a perm? I do the same for decaling, never cross use paint brushes. Looks good, you got the rivets and panel lines to stand out.

[@DrewsModels]

Really looks awesome! Curious if the squadrons in Top Gun are real or made up? Love your Tomcat!

[@lftysmit]

I can’t begin to explain the great techniques you have demonstrated for all types of builds, especially this one. This is my go to for tutorials and used your technique on my walkways on all my models now. This set of Fightertown Decals are so hard to come by and I’ve even emailed Brian Pleschia at Fightertown with no reply to get this set somehow. So, I’m gonna ask you. Would you please be able to spare the decals for TOPGUN Tomcat 30?? I grew up with (then) LCDR Beaman’s kids and his wife was my high school vice principal and want to build his jet. I can pay you for them or if this is not what you want to do, would you be able to point in me the direction as to how I can obtain these decals? Once again, thank you for posting your techniques and have you ever considered being a contributor to Fine Scale Modeler to get your techniques out to a broader audience? Thanks again for your time and please keep the videos coming.

[@seanerk5kt9]

I’ve got 3-4 leftover sets I can send you, just email me at [e-mail].

[@Plydrms]

..Really nice. I'm new to weathering..just finished a Tomcat but want to get better. I am using Tamiya paint and I tried some weathering with the oils. Should you always clear coat before weathering, or can you apply oils and Tamiya panel accent directly onto the paint? Also, where can I buy the gray sponges that you use to texture the walk traffic area? I find different sponges create different effects. Thanks, I like your work-

[@seanerk5kt9]

You don’t have to always clear coat over Tamiya before weathering with oils. The main reason to do so would be to seal in and protect your decals from the oil based products. When I’m applying a panel line wash, I use a gloss coat but when I’m blending and shading with oils, I like to use a flat clear coat. The grey sponges are just protective foam from packages I’ve received in the mail. Hope that helps. Sean

[@Plydrms]

@@seanerk5kt9 thanks. Without the clear coat does the oil paint and panel accent wash tend to be less removable? I found that it permanently stained more versus wiping off clean on clear coat.

[@seanerk5kt9]

Yes...it’s more difficult to remove

[@Plydrms]

@@seanerk5kt9 Do you permanently attach the canopy during the painting process, or just temporary? How do you temporarily and permanently glue down your canopy?

[@shadowyzman7078]

Beautiful! I had a question for you. Sometimes the decal film is slightly wider than the part that it goes on. Do you trim the edges or is there a way to make decals conform around edges?

[@seanerk5kt9]

Thank you. I try to avoid wrapping decals around edges so I normally cut them. I’ll apply it on the model, get it hammered down with a qtip, then use a sharp exacto knife to carefully trim it. You can also try to get them to conform using several coats of solvaset or microsol.

[@amazonamazon4872]

What if youre using an acrylic wash? Do you switch over to a lacquer or enamel based clear?

[@clonefox80]

Looking really good,,I'm not a fan of black panel line wash, it's a bit to uniform for all over, can make things look cartoony, Just spent last three days bare metal foiling the J2M2 panels,,you know when you just go mad with something 🤪,,,

[@seanerk5kt9]

Yeah, I ended up using several different colors. I think you may have fallen in love with bare metal foil ;)

[@michaelkneringer3194]

I agree with the panel line wash thought. I think a dark shade of the base layer paint, or a light shade if the base layer is very dark, 'works', for my eye anyway. More work to do if applying a multi camo paint scheme though.