TBL 21 - Escort Ignition Switch Replacement

The Broken Life Episode 21
In this episode, the old girl let me down for the first time ever... Time to replace an ignition switch, I guess, if I have to.
Seen in this video:
1995 Ford Escort Wagon
Want to contact me? [e-mail]

[@TheBrokenLife]

As luck would have it, I ended up needing to replace this switch _again_ after only 3 months of use. There could be some underlying factor in my car that is eating them up, but I sort of doubt it. In short, I can't say I recommend the official OEM Motorcraft replacement part I installed here. I put a SMP part in it the second time and we'll see how that goes. TBL 29 is the episode where I did it again...

[@frankc.5430]

Switch on my '95 quit at 137k miles, did the swap in about 30 minutes after watching your video. FWIW: I found the mounting screw was easier to remove/install using a #2 Phillips bit in a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" ratchet. The bit was magnetized so it was easy to line up and start the screw. BTW I took an inspection mirror to get an idea of where the screw was and how much room I had to work with before starting on it. I used an icepick (remember them?) to lift the plastic tabs on the 2 contacts. Socked it all down and it fired right up! Also used a NOS switch (SW-5657 F5CZ-11572-AA), hope it lasts more than 3 months. Mine's the same color as yours except its a 4-dr sedan. Has all the little annoying stuff goes wrong like that oil pressure switch and those worthless automatic seatbelts but it gets a solid 33 MPG on the freeway all day and doesn't use any oil between changes. I'll keep driving it until the frame turns to confetti. Thanks for the video!

[@TheBrokenLife]

I'm glad you found the video useful! 👍The switch mine has in it how has been fine for a couple of years now. I'm hoping it stays that way. I do, indeed, remember ice picks... 😁 kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5zaYaKeoLdjosk

[@benhill3834]

I understand your reasoning behind replacing both the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. Before I had the Corolla I had a Camry about the same age as the Escort. I got rid of that car because it fell apart and I had to keep replacing things on it. Some of the things that broke included a window regulator, the a/c and the fuel gauge.

[@TheBrokenLife]

...the A/C was broken when I bought the car. I repaired it and charged it up a few months before I started making videos. You have a crystal ball over there? haha All in all, I can't complain too much about any of the Escorts that have been in the fleet over the years. Easy to work on, cheap parts, and they don't usually need all that much. They're cheap old cars so you just kinda have to expect some quirks.

[@benhill3834]

@@TheBrokenLife I got the Camry for free from my dad. I got 3 years of use out of that car before the trans puked atf on my driveway. I can't complain too much about a free car but it did get annoying replacing things on it. edit: words are hard when I am half-asleep.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@benhill3834 It's entirely possible to lose money on a "free" car and I've nearly done it myself. In fact, that's a story I should share on the channel at some point. As far as my stuff goes, I'd rather spend my money on tools than car payments, so, The Broken Life is the one for me!

[@benhill3834]

@@TheBrokenLife I will give the car credit for only falling apart after I overheated it and the trans surviving being throwing into park at 10 mph after I saw the temp gauge fully pegged. I agree with spending money on tools over having a nice car.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@benhill3834 Overheating is really bad juju on most modern (so... in my mind, post 1990) cars and especially on Escorts. Escorts like to drop valve seats and destroy the entire motor after as little as one overheating event. In fact, sometimes they just do it because they feel like it. That is why I went out of my way to make sure my cooling system is top notch on that car. New water pump, hoses, thermostat, etc were the first video series I published on my channel. So... I totally get where you're coming from. Sometimes its just one small failure that cascades into the entire car going to the crusher. I had that happen on a Cavalier once actually. The thermostat failed, it pegged the gauge, and caused the cylinder head to crack. A $5 part totaled the car (it was junk before that too, but...). Karma being what it is, that's actually how I ended up with the first Escort (replace the Cavalier) and here we are over a decade later chatting about the 3rd Escort on KZbin! You just never know where life will lead you when you drive utter garbage. Haha!

[@Energikar]

I just inherited an abandoned escort that was in a storage unit. I have to rekey it to see where I am. It is almost mint. Forgot to check the miles. New tires and can be hand buffed out. Blue color and auto...

[@TheBrokenLife]

Sweet! Good luck with it!

[@markkiser9329]

I have a 97 and voila , nothing, no lights or crank or anything. When you talk of 1st 2nd and 3rd generation escorts which might mine be?

[@TheBrokenLife]

Yours is a 3rd generation. Unfortunately, your ignition is completely different and I think requires a good bit more effort to get to. I believe they're also prone to failure. 😞 But... When you say "no lights", I'd be surprised if that includes the headlights, brake lights, etc if it's the ignition switch. If the entire car is 100% dead, you may want to look elsewhere for the reason or consult a wiring diagram to confirm. Good luck with it! 🤞

[@kevinjcatron]

I have a 98 and need that part but can not seem to find it. I con only get the entire ignition switch with keys.

[@TheBrokenLife]

Looks like the 3rd generation switch (your car) is completely different from the 2nd generation (mine). For $250 they want for a new one, I'd be tempted to try one from the junkyard. The switches (both electrical and mechanical) are well known for failure in 2nd gen cars, but I think the 3rd gen stuff holds up better so a used part may be just fine in the long run.

[@dementedweasel1]

Thanks to your instructional video I had that switch out like a boss! I think it might be easier to hold that bolt in the eye while installing it so you don't have to hunt for it. My fingers are pretty big so it's tough getting in those tight places.

[@TheBrokenLife]

I'm glad to hear it helped you out! Mine needs to come back in the shop for plenty more work. Always fun!

[@dementedweasel1]

@@TheBrokenLife Another thing I noticed is the tab moving with the clutch pedal is pretty flimsy and evidently bends back over time and get's out of range of the plunger on the clutch switch. In my case it was the ignition switch but I had to take the clutch all the way to the floor. to start. I just bent it back and it's OK every time now. Another of Ford's bright ideas.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@dementedweasel1 That's interesting. I have to confess, if the clutch switch ever gives me trouble, I'd probably just delete it permanently.

[@dementedweasel1]

@@TheBrokenLife It's not like you must have one. I driven plenty of sticks without that feature. I suppose thy're trying to idiot proof everything.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@dementedweasel1 Just by being a manual they've pretty well idiot proofed it by now. ;)

[@LordRaid0n]

My ignition switch just went. What do I do

[@TheBrokenLife]

Replace it with a non-Motorcraft part.

[@Rritakay11Cook-et9mz]

Thanks a million I got it Thanks again

[@TheBrokenLife]

I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@davidzajano611]

I need to replace mine in my 93 escort GT. I should probably drop the lower dash cover and replace the burnt out dash bulbs and the rear defroster switch while I'm at it.

[@TheBrokenLife]

Those jobs are on my agenda as well. It's a pretty common 2G feature to have half of the dash burned out, and at least in 95-96, dead rear defroster buttons were nearly a factory installed option. Just to toss a tip out for you if you get there before I do, you can remove the speedometer cable from the transmission by simply pulling straight up on it (at least on a 1.9L car... not sure about on your GT) and then the entire cluster will slide out (with some help from the firewall side to push the cable jacket through the grommet). It's the easiest mechanical speedometer cluster I've ever pulled after I learned that trick. EGTs are cool cars, man! I have your grill in my basement waiting to be installed. It doesn't get much more '90s than that. ;)

[@davidzajano611]

@@TheBrokenLife I have the defroster button already and have been procrastinating on getting the bulbs together, but not that the ignition switch needs to be done, I might as well make a weekend of it. Thanks for showing the tip on pulling the pins in the video, that will literally save me hours.

[@TheBrokenLife]

You're quite welcome and indeed it will... I'm still not entirely sure what Ford/Mazda intended you to do to get that sensor out of there, but I was pleased that I didn't have to find out. It didn't look _low effort_ enough for my taste. Also, FWIW, I've put cheap eBay LEDs in 2 Escort dashes now and they perform just fine, and since the factory cluster is a little blue anyhow they look about right, for about $10. No way I'd put incandescent bulbs in anything ever again now that LEDs are so cheap and good. Do it once with LEDs and forget it forever. Also... It won't take you anywhere near a whole weekend if you're generally of fair-to-moderate skill level with working on things. It's really not at all a bad job to do. There's a guy that has a video where he basically pulls his entire dash (and removes the cable the hard way, which sadly is the way the Chilton and probably also Haynes manuals tell you to do it) just to replace the light bulbs and he's way out in left field with all of that. I'm not trying to trash talk the guy, as he got it done and that's all that matters, but he took the long road for sure so I don't suggest following that video as a guide. Double check that you can just pop the cable on your EGT (do _not_ touch the VSS bolt under any circumstance though as it will 99% just break off) like you can on a 1.9L car, and if so, you'll be sitting pretty. 1/2 day job, tops, for all of it, with little previous experience, IMO. If you want, you can email me some pics of your EGT VSS/speedometer cable at the transmission and I can compare them to my 1.9L car for you to see if they're _likely_ the same. Address is in the description.

[@davidzajano611]

@@TheBrokenLife the irony is that Mazda has a slightly differently designed switch that's a bit easier to address. I have a BP swapped 323 and protege LX parts car. I was going to pull the ignition switch from protege, but the outset on the plugs is different it could be done, but it'd involve swapping over both connectors for the donor vehicle and splicing wiring where splicing is otherwise not needed. Plus with the other items that need attention, I just need to get after it and do it

[@TheBrokenLife]

Sounds like you're a proper lover of fine automobiles over there. You've basically got the best that the platform ever had to offer, except no wagons... ;) I'd really love to zetec swap mine some day... FWIW, The OEM Ford switch I put in mine was something like $20 from Rockauto. I don't think I'd hassle with anything else for that price. Considering how bad the OE Ford parts seem to be, I wouldn't even want to think about what the aftermarket could be like.

[@ignaciohernandez2643]

Nesecito Padilla de encendido de ford escort 1996 motor 1.9

[@annalucas6776]

I wasdriving my f e wagon 1995. It just up and quit. Will crank but not start. Has a little over a hundred thousand miles

[@TheBrokenLife]

There's a fuel pump safety switch (like a circuit breaker) in the passenger side cargo area that is intended to shut the fuel pump off if you get in a collision. Sometimes those will accidentally trip if you go over a bump. Remove the cover (it's labeled) and see if you can push the button back in on the top of it. If so, your car will probably start right up. If not, I suspect your fuel pump died. If you want to check to see if you have fuel pressure, I made a video called " How to Pump Bad Gas Out of an Old Ford: Max's Tech Tips!", where I illustrate the fuel service port location on an Escort. It works just like a tire valve stem. Take the black cap off and quickly push the center of the valve in with a little screw driver or pick. If gas shoots out, you have fuel pressure, if not, no pressure. No pressure = 99% chance your pump died. Good luck with it!

[@jrshark3773]

Great job and thank you so much my car is doing the same thing

[@TheBrokenLife]

Thanks! Good luck with yours!

[@jrshark3773]

@@TheBrokenLife past 20 +years I went through 3 1994 + 95 Escort wagon like yours got 500000 + miles great cars , never had a ignition troubles surprisingly tell now just rust

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@jrshark3773 I'd say you're on the lucky side. Across 3 cars with a combined 500k on them myself, I've been through at least 4 of them that I know of (hard to know how many the previous owners did). Lots of rust here too... I'm not sure what to do about it as I watch it advance more and more on my 84,000 mile car. :(

[@jrshark3773]

@@TheBrokenLife they're getting hard to find, my brother Sells Cars and he would get me used Ford escorts in mint condition almost, I use am's oil, motorcycle oil 5w30 fully synthetic, less detergent, doesn't break down aluminum Motors as fast , really had good luck with it, just add a new oil filter every 3000 miles 12000 miles a oil change

[@jrshark3773]

@@TheBrokenLife this last one was from Florida 7 years ago I sprayed doors underneath with used transmission oil and motor oil to defeat rust

[@AntonioGarcia-mt2jg]

Por favor puedes traducir a espsñol

[@TheBrokenLife]

I would if I could speak Spanish, sorry.

[@jeffshark4]

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