Td5 Non Start Problems. - Part 3 - Replacing the "In Tank Fuel Pump" Success.

[@mjallenuk]

Great video ... Everyone with a Td5 and even a remote interest in how it works should watch this!

[@peterjefferies3784]

Thank you, your tip on the seal being or not being put on correctly was the answer why my LR2 leaked diesel every time I put too much Diesel in it! The previous owner had incorrectly fitted the seal, following your directions on here I was able to remove and refit the fuel pump with the seal fitted correctly. Now everything is perfect, so thank you.

[@royalscotspiper]

Excellent btw. Watched other vids and your the only one that mentioned the rubber seal. I was at it for an hour getting right pissed off before I saw this. Went straight in once I put the seal on the tank instead. Brilliant.

[@trailerfitter2]

Glad you liked it. I try to look for problems to share. Happy it was of value.

[@marctuohey4912]

I love the Internet :) Followed all 3 vids and guess what ? Only 1 bar of pressure !! Thank you so much for taking the time to film this and upload it , your a star

[@trailerfitter2]

glad it was of help!

[@marctuohey4912]

+Land Rover Toolbox Videos did you ever strip the old pump to see if repair is possible ?

[@trailerfitter2]

repair is possible and there is a motor available on Ebay to fix it.

[@Mr_Springy]

Finally sorted mine, the starter motor was worn and affecting the crank sensor. New starter and sorted starts first time every time. I have also changed the crank sensor as a precaution. Good video series but if your fuel pressure is OK then consider your starter/CP sensor. Filter housing, return valve and injector washers are common non start issues.

[@trailerfitter2]

Oh yes the crank sensor. I need to show how heat can affect it and stop it from starting when hot. .

[@waynes4x4technologies54]

@@trailerfitter2 I appreciate the tech talk. Bizarre as this may seem. I have recenty replaced the starter motor on a td5 Defender as the previous one was a Denso. It was just continously clicking on its solenoid, and had been previously repaired by some other repair shop, auto electrician. The vehicle drove into my workshop. I was asked by the client to rather fit a Britpart unit instead, as the client wanted an affordable option. Well this turned out to be a interesting event. After fitting the replacement unit, the engine will crank over very smoothly and at good cranking speed, but won't fire. I made use of my Hawkeye pro did all the necessary checks. I found that there was no rpm signal coming from the CKP sensor. I thought it strange, to now have to replace this, as the engine was running very well. So I tested it and even fitted another one to confirm it to be not the cause of this problem. I even checked the loom and the connections to the ECU for any traces of oil and all the related possibilities. All was in good order. Noticeably not even the rev counter would register while cranking. After spending a considerable time and effort diagnosing, I removed the brand new Britpart unit and compared it closely with the Denso and identified that the only significant difference to be regarded here was the design of the bendix drive gear which had a shoulder type gear fitted. Not anything like the Denso which has no shoulder gear design to it. Out of desperation, I then fitted another used Td5 Denso starter to the vehicle, ..voila.. it fired up instantaneously. I refitted the Britpart and alas, the same issue of not firing up returned. After all this, I came to the conclusion that possibly by this alternative bendix design, it is for some reason causing a CKP sensor to malfunction whilst under cranking conditions. I recommended the Denso to the client as we had no luck with his Britpart recommendation. Let me know if you had such a similar experience. Regards Wayne

[@evisceratormkii6399]

Just got mine from from Paddockspares. Wish me luck!

[@kymstroud632]

Great video. Thanks. I was trying for ages trying to get the locking ring on, rain pouring down, getting dark, disheartened. Realised from the video that the seal needs to be fitted into the tank lip. Will try again in the morning. Cheers

[@DiscoMan]

Glad to see that your Disco is running!

[@trailerfitter2]

+Disco Man cheers. Was the pump after all.

[@1madgerman]

Fantastic 3 part video mate very well explained!

[@JimBiddle.]

Stumbled onto this mini series as part of some homework. I'll ask because you never know? Done so far: Bypassed turbo modulator, improved pick up. New injector loom. Service filters. My D2 TD5 15P will randomly show coolant temp and fuel rail temp of 1294.5 Degrees, with RPM showing 11308, on my scanner. Air flow shows as 1619 kg/h. It will be smoking like a good one, and won't start. I unplugged the loom that most of the temp sensors run on, the one that passes by the front of the engine by the rocker cover. It ran so well, the best it ever has with me, anyway. Does that sound familiar to anyone?

[@faroukwasswa3588]

This is good information. Thank you

[@jonathandilk5722]

Brilliant video thank you

[@fredrikhansson1774]

2:13 hi! I accidentally got dirt into the pump whilst I was taking out the tank. Is it possible to clean it out?

[@peterp2kkabunda198]

Great video very helpful

[@jabagabitashvili2373]

Hi.I watched the video. explained everything very well. My TD5 does not start, only by pushing and with spray. After the push the engine starts and runs normally. can this case be a pressure problem? seeing what car goes when it is on. Thank you!

[@michaelbirchall2247]

What are people's thoughts on the Einhell impact screw drivers, at the start of the video?

[@aidenpeart1466]

Any advice changed fuel pump on disco 2 it started cut out and wont start again??

[@marcterry7614]

You say it took a lot of cranking.... how much is a lot? I’ve done the 5 pump purging cycle three times now and still nothing. I’ve just put the battery on the charger and I’ll give it another try in the morning.

[@garypeatling7927]

You missed most important part once removed clean out any debris and mud in tank also bottom layer will probably have water so suck it out quite often filling from worn pump

[@dzintarlatviets]

Hi. My D2 Td5 sometimes cuts out few seconds after start. Then it has to be cranked to start it up. after then runs fine. This happens on hot engine and sometimes in mornings. never cuted out while driving. Fuel pressure is 4.2 bar. Injector seals changed 1.5 years ago.

[@trailerfitter2]

crank sensor heat sink problems if it has stopped and then tried to start again. Check the voltage / signal from the crank sensor.

[@dzintarlatviets]

when it cuts out it cranks then like without fuel, starting to catch up and fires... what voltage to look for at crank? happened this morning. Started on the click, rune for 2-3 secs, cut out. Then after cranking for 2-3 attempts started. has runed fine so far. What do you mean by saying: crank sensor heat sink problems. Can you please explain more specific? Thanks in advance.

[@trailerfitter2]

Heat sink is where the engine gets warmer after it has shut down. IT can knock out a sensor that is breaking down. Cranks sensor is AC voltage and the voltage is self-generating when it is excited by the cuts in the flywheel ring. By the sounds of it, you may be getting air into your fuel lines or the diesel is running back. Could be a faulty filter housing?

[@dzintarlatviets]

Replaced air bleed valve some time ago. I had non there, it was removed by previous owner. What is the right position were it has to be fitted? LH closest connection?

[@husseinkaki6645]

My td5 defender cranks but it doesn't start. And the temperature goes to red .someone to help mi out

[@winstanleytreeservices9895]

Think my pump has gone yesterday...groaning noises from cold start and delay in accelerating after pedal is pressed...yesterday it just coasted to a stop and died.. turning into a bit of a moneypit 🙄

[@rustandoil]

Shame you stopped making these videos 🤗

[@intestinalworm1202]

Tried removing the 4-pin electrical connector from top of old pump (original 2003 Disco 2 Td5pump) using two screwdrivers as you suggested. Plastic very brittle and bit broke off! Is there anywhere I can buy a new connector?

[@trailerfitter2]

try here www.ebay.co.uk/str/landroverconnectors

[@coadyg]

I seem to have a leak on my connector to the pump is there any way to fix this?

[@trailerfitter2]

Change the pipe.

[@jjchef68]

Hi I have a TD5 which I've been having problems with. when the gauge gets below half a tank at some point it cuts out. when at the garage we noticed a fuel leak which was apparently from the regulator. I was hoping this would have been the problem hoping it was a fuel pressure issue. So I ran the tank down to less than half and once again it cut out. Have you come across this problem before and if so do you know what the solution may be. regards Jason

[@trailerfitter2]

Yes. you may have a hole or loose connection on the fuel pump assembly.

[@jjchef68]

Land Rover Toolbox Videos thanks for your help.

[@fatbloke5]

Hi Jason, did you find a solution, I have the same problem, my td5 gets to just under half a tank and it will not start.

[@Mr_Springy]

Hi, where did you get the fitting into the FPR from and what spec is it? I have tried to find something and nowhere local has something suitable

[@trailerfitter2]

It is just a needle probe. The are available on EBAY.

[@Mr_Springy]

Land Rover Toolbox Videos Needle probe is coming up as a multi meter part? I am on about the fitting that screwed into the FPR where you connect your pressure gauge feed pipe to get fuel flow to the gauge

[@trailerfitter2]

Ah yes sorry. I need glasses TBH. The fitting I had to cobble together with fittings in a kit with the fuel pressure gauge. Now looking for the video of the kit for you.

[@trailerfitter2]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqbMoax5f9OHi8k Here in this video. it is the FPR temperature sender hole it is fitted to so perhaps a word with a hydraulics and air fitting specialist in your area may help you.

[@Mr_Springy]

Land Rover Toolbox Videos Cheers mate, i think that is the way forward as my kit had nothing suitable Andy

[@goonzjav]

hi great videos. im looking to purchase a 90 or 300tdi. what should i be looking for and where would you recommend i search for one?

[@trailerfitter2]

+goonzjav Oh hell........... This video is about the Td5. ermm okay. To save me a lot of writing why not look at out buyers guide on Defender and the Fine art to Land Rover maintenance. So much information on there you can browse through. Links are below on this reply Buyers guide kzbin.info/aero/PLLBZWyYKFvYJmA3gQtUMhnHhwesTW8VTQ Fine art of LR maintenance kzbin.info/aero/PLLBZWyYKFvYKRKGyaWs0tL3a-887J--ej

[@user-ev3xt6jn3n]

Привет из Самары отличный обзор если бы можно с переводом думаю на русском языке то просмотров было бы много раз больше 👍👍👍

[@Mr_Springy]

I then connected a pressure gauge to the temp sender outlet on the FPR and got the following.... 1. When purging the system after connecting the gauge i get a steady 4 bar when the pump is running and can hear fuel gushing through the system. However, when the pump cuts out, the pressure drops to 0.75 bar in less than 1 second. As soon as the pump starts a new cycle, it goes straight back to 4 bar. 2. Once the purge cycle phase is complete with ignition still on i get around 0.75 bar. If i turn the ignition off and back on it goes back to 4 bar, until the pump shuts down, pressure dropping straight back to 0.75 bar. 3. With the gauge still connected, i crank the engine and the pressure drops to 1.5 bar before the gauge fluctuates wildly between 1.5 to a max of 3 bar. The LR does not start, regardless of cranking time, although occasionally it try's. Based on comments above, i think the fuel pump has failed? Can you advise please, thanks Andy

[@rugeramerican308]

I just can't get the locking ring to screw down,

[@tomwilliams1286]

how about td5 defender not starting, no glow plug dash light or engine management dash light and not noise from fuel pump....

[@trailerfitter2]

No power supply to relays and fuse board.

[@lisamacgovern6047]

Land Rover Toolbox Videos

[@tomwilliams1286]

Was ecu as I expected just hoped I'd missed something silly 😋

[@spryzhkov]

Very clear explanation, thank you! I have found it just as mine passed away. Though i am planning to try to replace the actual pump (EFP502001G) which is worth 10% of the complete one. If you will have a chance, could you please make a video when will be working on getting in shape the second hand or old fuel pump? Thank you!

[@Mr_Springy]

Hi, love the videos! At 11:16 you retest the pump. was the engine off at this point? I am going to test mine as same issue as you and just need to confirm that BOTH pressure tests with the gauge was engine NOT running. Once you got the 5-7 bar you disconnected the gauge fitted the temperature gauge and bled the system before starting. Thanks Andy

[@trailerfitter2]

engine off.

[@Mr_Springy]

Land Rover Toolbox Videos Thanks for the update. I have a similar set up to you but have not got a bleed off valve in the fuel line with a button. However, I have a bleed valve and clear pipe that will enable me to spot any air bubbles and bleed the air off. Once the air is bled, i assume that i should get above 4 bar engine off as well as engine running if my pump is good.

[@VladimirKabarX]

is there a gasket under oil filler Cap?

[@ryanhenry21]

Vladimir Kabar yes

[@pauloandrade9650]

How to r move for 1999 defender 3 doors

[@trailerfitter2]

With a screw driver.

[@jksebls]

Traduire en français la video svple