TDI swap wiring information (check my latest videos for the links)

This hopefully will help you when figuring out what wires you need to keep during your swap process. This is for the ALH, but the concepts are the same. This is how I did it, but doesn't mean you need to do it the same way. For full guidance, I would reach out to the tuner that you are going to use and ask them what they need. Most tuners don't use the MAF in swaps, hence why I suggest deleting it. I recommend that you don't cut the wires, unless you need to, but rather strip them down from the harness so you can put them back in if you need/want to in the future.
I know it's dry, and the volume is somewhat low, but it should point you in the right direction.

[@saveirodiesel6009]

Hello here is your Brazilian friend it's a pleasure to meet you here I'm firm in the project of turning on my tdi thank you friend always helping and clearing our doubts bye see you again

[@ToyodaDon1]

Awesome

[@jashann]

Excellent video, thank you so much for putting this together!

[@TDISwap]

No worries. I hope it helps you out.

[@TheHdmotorman]

Thanks for the info! Super helpful!

[@TDISwap]

No problem!

[@jimkillen1065]

I appreciate your advice

[@TDISwap]

You are so welcome

[@Tommymcgurk]

Amazing guide thank you 🙏 Could you possibly send the spreadsheet and wiring diagram?

[@TDISwap]

It's on my Facebook Group: TDI Swaps

[@ondras98novak]

Thanks, very useful video ! is there any chance you have same diagram for a AHU or AGR ?

[@TDISwap]

I do not. I'm sorry.

[@Yggdr4s1l]

I'd like to see one of these for the 1z. :)

[@TDISwap]

I'm sorry I don't know enough about the 1z to be of any help. If you talk with your tuner and let me know what they want/need for the tune, then I might be able to, but don't have the ability to test.

[@bmxstar444]

So the numbers skipped can be removed from the harness and anyothers that i would choose not to use?

[@TDISwap]

The numbers listed here are the ones you will find in the harness as not all pins have a wire in them. If you don't have a manual transmission, then the clutch wire won't be there. If you're running a manual in the swap, then you'll want to add a wire to that location and feed it power from a clutch switch or 12V from the ignition so you don't have dead pedal the first time you go to accelerate. There will be some differences between most harnesses. What I would suggest you do is look at the schematics and trace each wire to see where it goes, and then speak to your tuner to see what you two decide you want to do. Does he/she want you to keep the MAF? Then if so you need those wires. If you're running an automatic and need CAN, then you'll need high and low. If not, remove them. If you're running an automatic to manual controller say for an AW4, you can also remove them. Do you want cruise control? If not you can remove them and the VSS wire. Technically you can remove the brake wires as well as they'll be used to allow cruise to work (only one is needed), unless you want the pump to pull fuel when you hit the brakes. There are so many variables that answering that question is difficult. Each person's build is a little different, so first you need to decide what you want to build/have, and then figure out what you need.

[@mattmartin4928]

im in central NC, is there anyway to contact you? im bulding a 4x4 tdi swapped ranger currently and would love to have a you as a resource when i hit a snag. thank you for posting this one lol

[@mattmartin4928]

having real trouble finding the cabin harness diagrams for a 2002 ranger, im wanting to retain cruise, PS and A/c with the swap. along with hopefully full instrument cluster operation

[@TDISwap]

I'm on Facebook as the Admin of the TDI Swaps group (not TDI Swapped Trucks). You can reach me there. I'm near Fayetteville NC as well.

[@TDISwap]

@@mattmartin4928 I'm not an electrical guru, my brother is but he lives in PA. He's doing a 2000 XJ and is having to figure out how to convert the CAN signals from his BHW to the CCD BUS in the Jeep. More than likely you might have to do the same thing as well, but maybe not. Depends on the TDI motor you're using. For cruise, as long as it's not PWM driven, you can use your factory buttons to power the TDI ecu. What that means is your buttons should send 12V when you push them to your stock Ford ECU and tell it what it needs to see. For that to work, you normally need a vehicle speed sensor, but I recently posted up a video on how you don't really need one for that to work as well. Power Steering will be custom lines. I did mine with Earl fittings and hoses (basically aeroquip) and they work fine. There is a tiny delay when I'm turning my wheels fast, but I'm pushing 33x12.5 on the factory pump. I believe the pressure is more than enough, but maybe not the volume. Another alternative is a Volve electric steering pump that drifters use. AC will also need custom lines, more than likely. What I have in my CJ, and will be doing in the XJ, is using a B5.5 Passat 1.8T compressor and mount. This moves the compressor to the turbo side of the motor, which I needed to be able to clear my steering shaft. Finally, the instrument cluster. If it's driven by CAN, you might run into issues. There are CAN converters, but the only one I know of is by a company I choose not to do business with due to their inability to sell bench tested harnesses, when they say they test each and every one (but it's a lie). I've added custom gauges to my CJ and use a Dakota Digital SGI-B100BT interface to translate my speedo and tach signals, so they output correctly in my CJ. I have one arriving today for the XJ. You need to find out if your coolant temp, oil pressure, fuel, basically all your gauges work through the PCM/ECM and/or BCM. I believe there are folks that run their old computers to allow their dash to work, and just swap over their sensors, but I'm not familiar with that as I don't do this for a living. Best of luck!

[@mattmartin4928]

@@TDISwap So what ive figured out is my pcm sends everything through the GEM module(essentially a bcm) and it converts it for the cluster, the cruise has its own separate circuit. I plan on retaining the ford PCM and just de-pinning everything engine related expect for the things the cluster/ABS would need to see. The tach is the only thing i haven't really got a plan for yet, so im up for suggestions there. i joined that page specifically, and im about an hour from you near biscoe.

[@TDISwap]

@@mattmartin4928 Depending on what the tach is looking for you might be able to use the SGI100BT from Dakota Digital. I have that in both my CJ and now will be in my XJ as well. It just translates the signal from the VW ecu for my tach.

[@yjoem1]

Hey can we get that scamatic

[@TDISwap]

If you go to Facebook, look up the group "TDI Swaps" (not TDI Swap Trucks) and you can find them all in the files section with even newer schematics.

[@Stompdown98]

I can't get files to load

[@TDISwap]

it's been a bit since this video, so please come over to FB to grab the files. TDI Swaps is the group name. Or, look to one of my newer videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHmQqZJtrbR4jKM

[@TheRapidspeed]

is the tdi swap page on facebook gone? found it on friday, answereds the questions.. waiting for aaproval, and yesterday the page was gone..

[@TDISwap]

No. We're still there. What's your actual name? *We found you. Your account was blocked as a potential spammer, you've been unbanned.

[@TheRapidspeed]

Jan syncro Bergman

[@TDISwap]

@@TheRapidspeed yup. You can try again. Should be fine.