Modular docking bar - Budget Sovol SV08 toolchanger part 4

[@terryevans1976]

I always enjoy your videos but I have to say this series is my hands down favorite.

[@jnssmnsn]

Likewise!

[@joannascimento6660]

me too omg, i can't wait for it to start printing something with this

[@NotTodayMaybeTomorrowOk]

Agree 100%

[@Zsub1]

I really want you guys to succeed on this! I also thoroughly enjoy following along, so please do keep these kind of build logs coming!

[@justinschwarz983]

Love watching this series. I am getting stoked to want to try a build like this for myself. Looking amazing, shout out to the whole team for an amazing project.

[@TripleJAu]

Great work as always Michael, especially love the combination of video and documentation. My preference is learning via video and documentation. 🇦🇺👌

[@emberprototypes]

Once you get there - I recommend using optical methods (eg. our CXC tool or other) to not only calibrate XY offsets really easily, but also to view how repeatable your docking and undocking is. Toolchangers can be finicky and identifying repeatability issues optically beforehand will save you loads of time and pain! Can't wait to see this thing zooming though 👀🔥

[@dev-debug]

I have a couple IDEX printers but I don't use optical. I made a 3d printed tool that hooks on bed corners and has 2 high quality micro switches for X/Y and a strain guage for Z. It's controlled via a pyQT gui that can be run on my dedicated Klipper Screen box. Dead on every time I need to re-align the tools.

[@emberprototypes]

@dev-debug nice!

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

YES! Been waiting for this update!

[@Enjoymentboy]

I know it is not ideal but I've made up plenty of multi-core cables with various gauges. In your case you could get a 3 core wire with single insultation at one gauge and a 2 core wire at a different gauge. Fish a string through a length of heat shrink tubing and pull the wires through. I typically only heat shrink the ends. I get my heat shrink in the 50 meter roll as I go through a lot of it. It makes it very easy to make the exact cables you need.

[@nemorianderson]

About the wires, I'd go for thick two wire for the power and ground, and separately thin 3-wire cable for else. And then just bundle those wires together by short pieces of heat shrink every ~15cm. Might not be as tidy as a single cable, but more practical and still would work

[@Pileot]

Using wires with silicone covering instead of vinyl also makes a HUGE difference in flexibility. Lots of ways to tackle this problem just depends what tools you have on hand in order to work around it.

[@moth.monster]

I would have just used some of those expanding cable sleeves

[@drtbantha]

A multistrand AV cable like Belden 8446 might be exactly what you’re looking for here - 4x 22AWG + 2x 18AWG.

[@domiblack2k182]

Yes!

[@brandonhicks7549]

@@drtbantha No, not really. It's UL spec is only 80C max. If you stick to PLA in an open chamber it's probably fine. PVC isn't great for motion applications--it doesn't have a great friction coefficient, and it gets sticky at higher temps. The current ampacity of that cable at 45C ambient is still good enough if you don't count the friction heating, But any higher and it's going to not be good. A better choice is the 3Do CANbus or CANbus + USB cable or similar. The FEP jackets are rated to much higher temps, have much lower internal friction, and the CANbus/USB is shielded.

[@dev-debug]

@@brandonhicks7549 I have an enclosed IDEX with mains powered bed. Unless your running a chamber heater or very long prints you usually don't see even 65C. Chamber would have to be pretty air tight and high bed temp to get 80C. Anyway that's the wire a number of places sell for can bus although I use stranded cat 8 with 24 gauge wires, 3 pairs divided for 24v and a pair for signal. Been running for a year with 60W cartridges and no issues. Crimping them for can bus connector is not fun though. Custom made wire is available but it's expensive and you usually have to buy a good size spool of it.

[@Liberty4Ever]

I'm anxiously watching this series. My goal is to have an enclosed two tool head SV08 so I can print parts made from ABS and TPU. TPU doesn't feed in the Bambu AMS or Creality CFS. Bambu has a higher durometer TPU that will work with the multi-filament feeders but I don't want a higher durometer in my future product. Huge props to the entire SV08 multi-extruder development team. I wonder if Sovol will offer a 2-5 head SV08?

[@johngallagher1905]

As others have mentioned, there are combination Data + Power cable options, such as Robotic cables, or drag chain cables. They also seem more accessible these days. Locally I get them from LAPP Australia.

[@bobbob0507]

I'm adding this modular dock setup to a Voron 2.4 that I'm building, but I haven't gotten to that point yet. My main difference will be using can bus to connect my toolhead boards directly to my main controller board. My main benefit over the Sovol route will be a more rigid frame + full enclosure, but my parts total was just over 2k. Glad to say I'm still saving money over the Prusa option, thought the amount of time for assembly will definitely make up for it.

[@HackMonkey]

Very interesting to see the process, and cost breakdown. I am hoping you are also keeping track of your time, including mistakes and rework, because that time is a very valid consideration before taking on such a project.

[@Elkarlo77]

Cost Breakdown is important and easy, but Time Breakdown will be problematic. He and Draftshift will have spend 300-500 hours in developing and building the Toolhead changer. The Question is how long will it take to assemble the finished product. That will be more like 10-20 hour print time and 10 hours assembly time. As a very simple example: I made for a friend a PC Button Box with 16 switches. The Initial 3D Draft was ready after 1 hours. Assembly is around 90 Minutes. I spend 3 days tinkering in the Afternoon to get all the spacings correct, so more like 4-6 work time on my side. My Powermac Trashcan ITX Case took 2 years and around 200 hours, assembly is 24 hours print time and 60 Minutes with a full PC Build, without painting the case. I may release it when i builded the 3rd Iteration still some kinks in it. And the 300-500 hours are Work time, without filming and modifing the Voron Toolchanger. But those projects are always projects of love, because you _want_ them happen.

[@thenide101]

For the wire you can take a cable with more cores and use multiple wire for powering the head

[@parrottm76262]

This type of 'product' is obviously only for tinkerers. No way I would attempt to do this. Having said that, I'm very grateful for the updates on this project. I can appreciate all the talent and engineering it is taking to bring this to the community.

[@chrisstone8189]

Nice work! Glad it’s still moving forward. It’s awesome putting the challenges into perspective with these videos. Just watched this one and already excited for the next one…. lol I was thinking the extruder cover would be problematic, not for the wiring but because they only have magnets holding them on and can easily pop off. I was thinking at minimum a redesign that uses screws coming in from the back plate to secure the cover. I like the look of the SV08, but not having support at the bottom of the docks could also be a reliability issue. Was thinking about mounting extrusion on the front of the sv08 to be able to support the docks and relocate the enclosure doors if I ever install one. Don’t like the thought of how it would look so I’ve held off from doing that yet.

[@Reds3DPrinting]

Got an SV08 to make a budget toolchanger! Ive really been looking forward to this! Thank you so much for your efforts! My accomplishment today is I finally got wifi on my sv08 xD I didnt think it would be such a process!

[@ridokilos-actual]

"[...]and sometimes that means doing things twice. So with that in mind [slides sv08 off the end of the table] lets start the fuck over" jk of course. Fascinating project and grateful for the log. It's not only a ton of effort to navigate through such experiments, but maybe DOUBLE that effort or more to carefully document and upload cleanly edited videos of a project that might not even turn out a success. Kudos.

[@jus4027]

ah part 4, cracking work by all those involved. Love the birds nest.

[@KennethScharf]

You could make your own USB cable by using a standard USB cable with an extra two heavier wires for power and ground, perhaps a two wire zip cord. Then lace the two cables together, I've used dental floss for wire lacing, it works great. The power and ground in the usb cable wouldn't be used. It's also possible that CAN bus cable will work on USB.

[@davebranson4384]

Have you considered running a thin metallic bar across the bottom of the tool changer brackets to create further rigidity?

[@GonzosGizmos]

I love this project! I will be keeping my eye on this, this is a great idea.

[@redshiftz8520]

I love this dude. I was going to buy a prusa xl but after watching this ive decided to hold out;. I have a v2 voron, which is my fav machine out of all 15 printers i have. so i would be making a siboor voron 5 or 6 head machine if i can. Siboor is great value and really nice quality. so a multi head Siboor would be incredible. I do think with a multi head machine, a machine that raises its bed is the most logical choice. It will massivly limit the travel distance to change head. I prefer the floating gantry design, but the raising bed design makes so much more sense with a multi tool head.

[@BT123D]

People with V2's have got their changes down to 5 seconds, so it can be pretty quick. also with a stock frame, having the docks/tools at the top is far less limiting on the build area

[@robertsturtz8360]

Instead of making nozzle blockers from silicone that needs to set, I've been using spare silicone bed spacers, the hole makes them easy to mount, , the rounded edge makes positional accuracy less critical, and they might be more convenient (and quicker) for people than making ones from a silicone that needs to cure. A redesign of the bottom of the dock will be required though. (I use mine in a Voron 0.2, unfortunately not much room for tool changing in there)

[@colemcdonald4290]

You can probably run an additional 2020 extrusion, underneath the toolchanger dock and tie it to the printed parts to keep it more rigid, since it won't interfere with anything.

[@WillThat]

The tap/stealth changers are the primary reason I'm interested in a Voron style printer. Only thing I don't like is the amount of Z you lose because you can't print higher than where you need to change the tools.

[@JohnDoe-mg7ht]

You can make your own custom cable by taking 2 individual wires and enclosing them with shrink wrap -- I find that works well for the length of cable you are using -- and you will substantially decrease the thickness of the cable using thinner wires for USB - plus shrink wrap tends to be thinner than cable shielding. This assumes you don't need the shielding for those lengths... You could also just take a regular USB cable, add power and ground and enclose in shrink wrap -- would still be thinner than 5 #18 wires...

[@stalkercvc9908]

Wow ... Nice work dude

[@domiblack2k182]

Yes, my fav series is back!

[@DIYunpolished]

next time just get parchment paper fill the cups with silicone and just put it upside down on the parchment paper and any left over will be squished out the side and when dry sliced off with razor. bottom will be perfect and flat.

[@jesseblanchard9609]

We are a loooong way from the days of Solidoodle, eh, Michael? Keep up the good work :)

[@Brian-S]

About your multi core wire; Look for speaker or audio transmission multi core wire with 2p conductors in them. Crutchfield CMRGBS50 is a option for a 2p 6 core wire

[@servermanden]

love this series an the projeckt is going strong

[@IamMrDisaster]

That is a HUGE lever arm to attempt to push a tool head onto. With it made of plastic and unsupported it will flex like crazy making your life more difficult. Better to have a length of metal plate back up the bottom of the tool head parks. You could run it from side to side of the SV08 frame and it wouldn't interfere with anything. If you want to stick with printed plastic extend the white part that connects the tool heads out to the SV08 frame. That will make it much stiffer.

[@cinobro6393]

2:36 Digikey and other suppliers sell many variations of cables with thicker power wires and thinner wires for communication, they are very expensive though up to $15AUD per metre. What most companies do is get a multicore cable with the same wire guage and assign more of the wires to each power pin.

[@PureRushXevus]

in the process of upgrading my tronxy x5sa with a fly f407g mainboard at the minute, which means doing longer wire runs as there's no ribbon cable anymore, and I'm using cat5e patch cable for most of it 😅 got so much of it lying around, though I do wish it was slightly thicker. not using it for the heaters or main power of course, and steppers get two wires per coil. fans and endstops I'm happy with using such thin wires though. is just a bit finnicky to terminate and work with

[@B0A2]

Excited for the next part!

[@patryk_004]

These are projects we are waiting for : O

[@beauslim]

Group multiple thinner conductors to carry power? Seems like everything with a ribbon cable does it that way. Looking forward to more in this series!

[@keiransolaris1929]

IGUS chain flex cables gave the type of wire you are looking for. A lot of different configurations available, I'm using one that is what you described for my canbus cable (don't recall the item number for it).

[@apoc286]

To be honest instead of permanently altering the toolhead board surely it makes more sense to just change the shroud? There are already upgraded versions out there that may not not have the clearance issue, and if there aren't have a chat with someone like Nadir over at CN3DP and may be able to tweak one of his shroud designs for more clearance.

[@berlinberlin4246]

Yay its going forward! Thank you for it.

[@chuckthetekkie]

Since I already have the parts to build a 350mm Voron v2.4 as I bought a cheapish kit 3 years ago ($1000) that I never got properly working due to severe bed adhesion issues so I disassembled it so I could make room for other 3D Printer builds. Eventually I will build it back up again but with some different parts like LDO 2020 extrusions and a West3D build sheet.

[@marcus3d]

2:24 Just get more cores and use 2 (or more) cores for high amp and single cores for low amp.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

While it sucks to have to redo things over and over, making slight modifications in the process, it definitely helps give you appreciation for things you can readily buy, knowing that that same process has likely taken place with them as well

[@Shinare73]

It seems like you could have a piece of 20/20 Extrusion supporting the bottom of the docks as well. Running across the back of the printer

[@woodwaker1]

Lots of interest in tool changers - looks like this one will be affordable and hope it works.

[@KidHaru]

It could be even cheaper if he can bring in Engineers Grow's recent hot end changer. The channel only has 2k subscribers though so I don't know if he's seen it.

[@The_Chillguy7]

looks great!

[@bennetb01]

I'd just sleeve individual cables of different sizes. I am not sure they need to be shielded.

[@moth.monster]

the way you got that silicone out is giving me flashbacks (jkjk)

[@mikropower01]

I think that the cables are not a problem, the connectors are. Many of them are simply made from thin steel.

[@domiblack2k182]

Yes, the JST specs should be checked, but they should be sufficient.

[@SippoCoffee]

sooo ... there is space between the docks of each toolhead? then why not connect the lower inner corners of the docs with the upper ones (-> creating a triangle and therefore increasing the regidity of the printed part of the docks) this could also function as the spacer, removing the need for the spacers all together. this would add weight, but if regidity is your main concern, I dont really get why the docks are L-shaped (looking from the side) No idea if there is smth preventing this, all I have seen yet, is the stealthchanger dragon and stealthburner docking route, so they might have a good reason for needing this space left and right on the sv08 one.

[@oldtimeengineer26]

I am going to build this when it is done. I have all ready got 5 hotend I buy them when they go down to $65

[@7h314m]

amazing vid, thanks for all

[@Theprofessor1212]

Would be good to know the total time spent at the end of this. A-lot of time we all forget to cost in the hours required which can sometimes far offset the cost of buy a new higher cost machine.

[@B0A2]

This is so cool!!!!

[@ForOdin]

The Mighty Car Mods shirt

[@TrinomCZ]

Great video. I would only change the tool heads for something better, than stock Sovol SV08 tool head. They have too many design flaws, compared to other designs.

[@dustybahLs]

@Teaching Tech you need igus cable chainflex cable they have a ton of different combinations of sizes

[@whitecanegamer]

This is a great recommendation but the minimum order quantities are a bit on the high side.

[@UnsweetIceTea]

​@@whitecanegamerthe creator of the Birds Nest hub sells the cables as well

[@DynamicDesign144]

I was going to post this as well - they're my go-to for multicore cables since they offer pretty much any material, gauge, wire count, etc. you can think of.

[@dustybahLs]

@ spendy but worth it considering them having cable chain rated high temp rated all the hard to find speciality stuff infact in gonna sue them on my high temp printer so there is no mcu inside the heated enclosure cause im gonna push some serious temps

[@johnkelly7264]

Why don't you make your own cables from individual / different rolls of wire and some sort of cable wrap?

[@hobbyistnotes]

Well done!

[@AllieT-wq8eq]

I've noticed on the Sovol website that the SV04 IDEX is heavily discounted and seems to be out of stock nearly everywhere. If Sovol are discontinuing the SV04, I wonder if they are intending on releasing a new IDEX/Tool-changing unit or addon to the SV08. The SV04 was pretty much the only budget IDEX system available. As someone who has project ideas that require multiple TPU types or printing TPU with separate support materials, AMS-style systems aren't suitable so here's hoping Sovol have something new in the works.

[@jamesm3268]

Running a piece of 2020 along the front of the tool head mounts will stop the flex have the mount bolt to it at the bottom ao the mount isn't flexing at the bottom.

[@AnthonyRassat]

Can anyone tell me where are the stl for modular dock sv08 toolhead please? I cannot find it on github

[@MatthewSimicsak]

I went looking for it as well and couldn't find it, so I asked in the Draft Shift Discord and the files haven't been released yet. Teaching Tech is doing the first one, once his is done the files will be released.

[@AnthonyRassat]

​@@MatthewSimicsakThanks a lot for sharing the information

[@KidHaru]

Please please please look into Engineers Grow's Hot End changer! It is borderline tailor made for this project!

[@operatingsauce]

One concern I have with this project is the piano wire on the toolhead cables. In my experience, adding this causes bad input shaper results, really limiting your speed and acceleration performance.

[@pakoki3142]

WEEE! i had been waiting for this. finaly :)

[@DIYunpolished]

A gusset would work extend it downward inch and a half and you got some more stiffness, make sure its abou 8 to 10 mm thick on the gusset. im reffering to your flex when you mounted the dock and the guy you was working with made another iteration.

[@bgoat96]

Instead of moving the usb connector to the other side, wouldn’t it just be easier to print a low-profile front cover that lets the tool board mcu breathe a little better? That’ll also give you more clearance on the dock for docking and undocking.

[@JanseMichel]

Awesome video, great progress and I love the details! Got a question, for the toolheads, what if you took a 7 core shielded wire with a lower gauge and connected two wires for both positive and negative? Or a 9 core shielded wire with even lower gauge, because the usb doesnt take much amps? Because 18ga sounds way overkill for usb. Would that make it overall thinner and more flexible, or does the thickness of the insulation make it as thick or even thicker in the end? Great channel! Keep it up!

[@joshgorham750]

Silicone will not stick through isopropyl or denatured. After loading the tray spray it and your trowel with the alcohol and it will not stick to the rim.

[@magnusivarsson9288]

Very interesting

[@fursphere2]

You should adjust the Prusa XL price to include shipping, taxes, and import fees.

[@Darelumga]

Highly depents on country you live in. Where i live prices are always with tax

[@MyFirstHandle]

I kind of wonder if it's possible to add another modular docker bar on the other side that is empty and has more space based on what I see in the printer's extra amount of space outside the printing volume that would be like 12 tool changers overall multiplied by 2.

[@mindrutaliviu]

Why is it always necessary to compare the prices with the price of the Peusa XL. They invested a lot in research before launching the XL and that's probably why it costs so much. Now having the idea of how such a printer works, it is much easier and cheaper to produce such a thing.

[@JShields-11]

Because the XL is the cheapest toolchanger currently on the market, so its a comparison of "Can I build one cheaper than I can buy one" also, that narrative of having an idea of how such a printer works makes it easier to produce one, makes no sense. The design he's using has almost nothing in common with the Prusa design at all, and there were other toolchangers on the market prior to the Prusa design such as the E3D toolchanger which you could argue Prusa actually use their idea of how a system would work and made it cheaper

[@BrushFire-p4j]

How about using 22/8 wire and just combine 2 wires for each power wire leaving the other 4 for logic? Should be around 5mm diameter vs 7mm for the 18/5

[@jkemper96]

I think the wifey is getting me an SV08 for Christmas. Do you think you'll have a step by step guide by then? I would love to take on this project, but would need the guide.

[@TheMadninjamike]

letsssss gooooo! 🤘

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

for the can cable you could have just bought the BTT Can cable, it is suitable for all you do here, ahs 2 smaller gage wires for can or data and 2 thicker for power, and its not as overly thick as the one you got, plus the data wires are twisted aswell

[@jason.miles31]

Seems like the BTT Can only has 4 wires. Not sure why the Sovol has 2 ground wires.

[@BT123D]

That’s because usb cables for this purpose need to be shielded, and you gnd the shielding. CANbus cables do not need this

[@jason.miles31]

@@BT123D On the SV08 the grounded shielding wire is connected to the cable clamp screw. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYLbqJR9rLuAZtUsi=mTRGSr0Lu2TWNKrM&t=75 Seems excessive to have both shielded and unshielded grounds as well as grounded shielding. Since the BTT CAN cable does not include shielding, I guess it wouldn't work in this application?

[@BT123D]

@@jason.miles31 from what it looks like, the gnd to the housing is the gnd the toolhead assembly, the you have a power Gnd to the pcb, and shield Gnd to the PCB. USB toolhead board are quite tricky to stop interference with, I doubt Sovol would include wires that they didn’t need to 😂

[@robertsturtz8360]

I think the 5 wires on the sovol mod are Ground, 24v, 5v, Data+ and Data- if you want to use a 4 wire setup, a buck converter at the tool head end to convert 24v to 5v might do the trick...

[@marcfair3d]

Nice 🎉

[@aaamott]

Cables - I've wondered if high power USB C cables with the ends lopped off would work. A flexible 100w data transfer cable should be made with a few things wires and a pair of thick power wires. Only problem is cost, and Chinese cables are *never* actually a larger gauge, so you have to buy a real brand for that power.

[@lukelahnstein]

thats what i have been using on my tap changer setup on my voron. Works great so far. 2m 100w USB charging cables gives plenty for 2x tool heads and about $5 on aliexpress

[@aaamott]

@@lukelahnstein good to know! I'm gonna get some. Do you know what gauge it actually is? I don't want to go too hard on the wattage if it's going to burst into flame 😂

[@mdalacu]

Hi! Any update on this project? I am waiting to see the result... hovering over buy button for a SV08😅

[@ptirom44]

For cable, what about hybrid cable data + power like Cordial CAMX 2-2 FR ?

[@dividion8102]

I look forward to the day all this hard work eventually results in an affordable off-the-shelf large multi-toolhead product. When it came time for me to either complete or cancel my Prusa XL 5-head order after waiting a couple years since placing the deposit, I canceled the order. By then I was rocking a couple Bambu P1Ss both with AMS and the Prusa XL just no longer seemed competitive. The Bambu printers are still working great and together cost half as much as the XL. If you can complete the build for under $1500, that'd be really impressive. I'm eager to see your progress in part 5.

[@Blamm83]

Curious, why did you opt to use the Sovol toolheads still for all of them? Especially now that you are running into space issues. There are plenty Voron compatible toolheads out there as you saw with the StealthChanger

[@kimmotoivanen]

Probably explained in part 1, but if working toolheads are available, and don't cost too much, why not use them?

[@Blamm83]

@@kimmotoivanen good point indeed, I'll have to look that back

[@dethdeks]

could just be camera angle, but putting them at the front makes it look like they would interfere with build volume.

[@hgelpke]

How do you test continuity on the smaller connectors since meter probes are too thick?

[@robertsturtz8360]

you can either wrap thinner wire around your probes, but probes with thinner tips, or use a (male) connector to provide accessible contact points. if you want to be super fancy wire a couple of banana plugs (or whatever goes into your multimeter to the male connector, and then you just plug that in to the connector on the end of the cable, and you don't need to wory about wanting an extra g=hand to hold the probes in place ...

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

I find very contradicting current ratings for a respective wire thickness. I found for 0,5mm2 anything from 3A to over 8A. On a calculator that takes wire length into consideration the result for 1,5m, 120w and 24v (5A) was 0,56mm2. Also btw jst xh plugs are only rated for 3A, so anything above 0,5mm2 is overkill. 3do makes a 6 core wire with two 0,5mm2 power wire and two pairs of twisted and shielded data wires made of 0,25mm2. There is also another one with only one pair of data wires.

[@leonardojoy]

gambiarra level 1000

[@odds4649]

I understand this is to make a budget build in general; Wouldnt a bed dropper be better than a flying gantry for this kind of thing?

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

no because with a bed dropper you will loose constant print area at the front, with a flying gantry you only loose this area all the way at the top of the printer volume

[@odds4649]

@@oOWaschBaerOo that just sounds like the same issue in both cases. Lost volume is lost volume. I feel that the extra axis with a flying gatry; on the toolhead has more potential for causing issues.

[@BT123D]

@@odds4649yeah but with a rigid gantry, it would be more lost volume. With a flying gantry, you don’t lose the area under the docks, so in terms of build volume you’d only lose the forehead. Also Z movement is needed for the tool changing system he’ll be using

[@Rubacava_]

Those wire gauge charts are ultra conservative about ratings

[@dominickcano1392]

Is this video 4 or 3. I can't find video 3.

[@sausage5849]

Is that printer OK? Chep didn't have anything good to say about it.

[@MicahT-l7p]

I cant get my svo8 to extrude enough plastic for the extrusions to touch. It only makes meshes that light gets through. Had the same problem woth the sv06, sold that junk for very little. Im so irritated at it i just have tons of stuff sitting in it, using it as a storage cube. If anyone has any idea how to fix the damned thing, im all ears. But also the idler pulleys on the x gasntry are misaligned, so it forces the servos to skip steps the closer the head gets to the edge of x axis travel, because the belts essentially change length and its pulling the whole damned machine apart, thats why so many people are experiencing the pulleys getting ripped out of their place. Such a stupid problem to have, like someone designed it with their eyes closed and just declared it a finished product when they finished designing the machine digitally.

[@brandonhicks7549]

12:09 Be Careful to understand this chart, and understand where this chart comes from! This toolbox chart is not good--zero reference to any standard. Every wire type has it's own ampacity chart. Find the UL type of wire you are using and search for the right ampacity chart for that wire. Silicone and PTFE have a much higher current allowed. Multicore is not multi-strand. You have 2 wires (cores) carrying current in your bundle, so use the right correction factor. Account for ambient temperature. In other words, you probably have too heavy a gauge of wire, but you may not! Also, for motion applications it is better to use multiple parallel cores of smaller gauge, rather than two large cables. If you can use a wrap instead of an integrated sheath, it will also last longer. Honestly, I wouldn't use larger than 22 gauge in a toolhead.

[@Youngrich87]

Hundreds (if not thousands) of Vorons are using 18 AWG for CAN bus without issue. Including mine for the past 2 years

[@brandonhicks7549]

@@Youngrich87 I appreciate that experience. I'm probably overly cautious in this respect. Cables and connectors are the bane of any electrical design. It's not a good place to skimp on the engineering.

[@Youngrich87]

@@brandonhicks7549 there’s nothing wrong with being cautious! It’s unfortunate that the connector is perpendicular to the entry point of the wire in the SV08. At least on most vorons it’s a direct path without bends at the toolhead

[@IamMrDisaster]

Why not just buy individual wires of different sizes and make your own bundles?

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

Only downside is the SV08 toolheads are junk.

[@LocoHosa]

The extruder seems fine but the hot end/nozzle is less fine. On printables there is a design that uses the SV08 extruder gears and toolhead board on a dragonburner, so then your would only need to purchase the hotend and fans, which would be about $110 for a quality toolhead.

[@MrRossi1805]

@@LocoHosagood to know, thank you 😊

[@NWalker-zx6xu]

@@LocoHosa I sapose this has a budget in mind and it explains the project. There is a line being walked from how cheap can you build a toolchanger and how cheap should you build a toolchanger.

[@omar.alsharif]

They're definitely junk. I have an SV08 and got the hardened steel nozzle adapter heater core, but even with that it is an awful toolhead to use. Especially if you want to mess around with modifying it. The tool head is designed in a way that's hard to change

[@KidHaru]

He could actually skip past all of that if he teamed up with Engineers Grow. He just put out a video that skips a full tool head change and only swaps the hot end. This project with that system would be HUGE for this.

[@cabe_bedlam]

First, jack up your printer!

[@Those_Weirdos]

11:25 And the value of your time? OUR time, since you're dragging this series out?

[@TeachingTech]

Feel free to develop one yourself and release everything free and open source.

[@platinums99]

there's ENTITLED, then then there's this guy. I however appreciate how far the project has come so far, I don't actually have time in my own life to properly sit down and build it but I will get there eventually!