Large Format CoreXY 3d Printer On A Budget (Sovol SV08)

[@YourBuddyDinec]

Great video. I'm glad the actual release versions seem better than the original ones content creators got.

[@oleurgast730]

Actually instead of letting the printer cool down between prints to avoid z-shift, I prefer to preheat the bed (and chamber on printers with heated chamber, like Qidi´s X-Max 3) and than wait for 10 minutes or more before calibrating the z- offset. This gives realy great 1st layers, as the probe has already reached a contant temperature, so no further drift. Also a bed needs some time to fully heat (thermistor is on the underside of the bed, not on the surface). So it is a good idea to probe the bed only after everything is heated finaly and every stess due to heating the bed is released and the deformation of the bed is finalized. There are always two reasons the first layer isn´t perfect: Temperature drift of the probe itself and the bed still deforming while printing. You can reduce the first problem with other probes - like klicky, tab, load cell using the nozzle as probe. But the only way to reduce the second one still is preheating the bed and wait untill all deformation has settled. On my x-max 3 there is even a sticker telling you to wait untill the temperature is settled. However, no 3d-printer manufacter seem to implement this in their slicer profiles. The reason is quite simple: Many reviewers tell you how fast the printer comes to temperature and start printing and compare it with other printers. So instead to tune the slicer profile for optimal 1st layer in print profile (start g-code) by adding a "G4 P600000" (10 minutes, time is in miliseconds, on my x-max 3 I use 20 minutes) after the bed has reached temperatur on the underside, the profiles start abl right after the bed tells it reached temperature - much to early. Not every model does need it. A benchy f.e. will mostly look fine without wait, an also with PLA no big deal. However, bigger objects, esp. if the bottom layer is the later top of the object (panels etc.), or dificult materials (PA12, esp without CF) or simply testing how good the printer can do if optimal handled, you definitly should take your time untill everything is heated before doing ABL.

[@LuxGamer16]

Yes to heatsoak. I have a macro where if it detect a bed temp higher then 80c (abs/petg/nylon/whatever) it does a heatsoak for 10 min and the chamber temp has to be above 35c. Since that i never had to worry about first layer

[@AwestruckAudioHertz]

Dude I did this on accident recently after getting so frusterated and putting 3d Printing down as a whole for a few months. When I got everything fired back up I set my bed and extruder temps and walked away for about 30 minutes or so. When I came back and eventually did the configuration I'm getting the best prints I've ever had hands down.

[@satibel]

the way my calibration routines are setup, I retract the filament to not burn it, then I calibrate at 200C on the nozzle for pla and 240 for abs, with the bed at 70 for pla and 110 for abs.

[@notyouraveragegoldenpotato]

I'm still using an artillery sidewinder with manual bed leveling. I haven't had to touch it in 3 years😂 not once, and I run it nonstop and use all 300×300 of the plate. I'm looking at newer ones- including the sv08 the qidi q1 and xplus 3.. and I keep seeing people having issues with their z offset with these machines. Is a heated glass plate more robust than the magnetic sheets that the new printers all use? What's the deal

[@oleurgast730]

@@notyouraveragegoldenpotato One big deal with modern printers: With magnetic sheets you often use different ones for different materials and objects. For example textured PEI or smooth PEI, just as example. Of course if you change the surface you have to change the z-offset. Also you use a much bigger range of bed temperatures (and esp. with the Qidi printers also the chamber temperatures). With PLA and PET-G you mostly use 60-90°C. I personaly leveled my Sidewinder X1 (converted to aluminium casted milled plate an PEI powder coated spring steel) at 70°C once and it worked well. However, if you use higher temperatures, bending of the bed becomes more of an issue. You do not only need to compensate the tilt and z0 (wich is actually what you do using bed leveling screws on a sidewinder) but also need ABL to compensate for the surface bending. A glas plate like used on the sidewinder only used in the range of 60-90°C indeed has some advantages here compared to the bed of an SV08. However, casted thick aluminium as Qidi uses also is quite nice. As you need ABL with changeable surfaces anyway, most modern printers do not have manual leveling anymore (wich is more beginner friendly, but personally I prefer manual leveling first to compensate for tilt and than let ABL just deal with bending and z0). On an Voron2.4-style design - like the SV08 - the gantry adapts to the bed, not the bed to the gantry, so tilt is taken care of quite nice. On the Qidi-printers the tilt is compensated by the bed-mash measured by the ABL-sensor (so yes, a mod to add screws for manual leveling is a good idea). The problem is to find the right sensor for ABL. An inductive probe has temperature drift, wich is a problem on the SV08. The distance it triggers changes slightly dependend on it´s ambient temperature. Simply pre-heat the printer and wait (so called "heatsoaking") before starting auto-z-offset calibration, auto-gantry alignment and auto-mesh-bed-leveling. Or change the sensor to a less temperature dependend one (Prusas Pinda 2 or a touch sensor like the Biqu microprobe 2 - both running at 5V unlike the probe sovol uses, so not a drop-in replacement). On the Qidi: The X-Plus 3 does not have auto z-offset. On my X-Max 3 I have the touch-sensor, no issue there. Once adjusted the z-offset it worked well (off course, readjusting needed after nozzle change). To put it simple: With modern printers you more often change the surface and even the nozzle (or complete hotend), wich you normaly do not do on older printers. So modern printers use ABL and (SV08, Qidi Q1) z-auto-offset to do auto-bed-mash-leveling (and gantry alignment on the SV08). And the ABL-sensors all have their upsides and downsides. Do "heatsoaking" (pre-heat the printer = waiting 10 minutes after heatbed temperature is reached, maybe longer in cold rooms or using ABS) befor leveling solves most problems. Or invest more money as the printer manufacturer was willing to spend and use a better ABL-sensor (like the Biqu microprobe 2 or the Pinda 2).

[@RobHasIdeas]

Small correction: the board may seem superficially like the Skipr, but it differs significantly in components and construction. The SOC and related components are basically the same as the BTT CB1, to the point where Sovol is actually using the CB1 OS image. The MCU side is incredibly similar to the FYSTEC Cheetah V1.1. It looks like they either share a reference implementation, or one heavily inspired the other. There are more than a few ways Sovol didn't, uh... cite their sources for the design. All that being said, I'm happy I got one, warts notwithstanding. As always, great video, and I'm glad you covered this printer!

[@johnjones3215]

This is sooooooo timely. I just ordered mine 2 days ago and this answered some questions I had. I now have a better understanding of some of the steps. I did opt for the enclosure option as welll as the touch screen. Can't wait until it gets here now.

[@TJ_Hack3r]

Ordered mine on launch day back in April, it's finally getting delivered this week. A very long wait, but its given me plenty of time to think of a list of mods for it.

[@astrumrocket6556]

One interesting point that could be made here is on just HOW MUCH open source it is, and how that effects potential mods. A super interesting project is the one from TeachingTech, where he started converting it into a tool-changer, essentially a budget Prusa XL. Sure, he just started, but it's TeachingTech, so I'm pretty sure he'll make it happen. So yeah, definitely a plus. SV08 on it's own seems like a decent printer, but not something I would buy. However, if tool-changer mod seems doable, and if the community makes interesting mods for it, it will definitely make me want to buy it.

[@B0A2]

Super excited for part 2 of that series

[@Phoen1x883]

That exact video is why I put in my order. I'm hoping to upgrade from my Prusa Mini, but the Mk4 isn't that big of an upgrade, and I can't afford XL money. Plus, with Sovol's shipping delays, I'll have part 2 ready to watch by the time it shows up!

[@RobHasIdeas]

Based on a detailed analysis of the board (video coming soon), I strongly suspect Sovol is developing an MMU add-on for the SV08. Also... it's not quite as open-source as it first appears. (see issue #8 on the SV08 GitHub)

[@octothorpian_nightmare]

Not even close to open source, really. Schematics aren't complete, and PDF and STEP files are output formats, not sources. More like dimensions napkin schetches than anything resembling an open source project.

[@zapl80]

@@octothorpian_nightmare they published all you need to recreate it, open source does not require you to make it easy to recreate it. STEP isn't just output it's an exchange format between cad tools. Specification documents like those PDFs are exactly what a supplier would need to create those parts and their PCBs aren't open source as far as I can tell so they don't include board level schematics. It's enough to create a board with the same pinout and dimensions and that's all that is needed for some other company to make an SV08 clone. The source for this project, the V2.4 does not include any better sources.

[@nadir3D]

A complete and correct overview great content like always. we are making a mod for 9mm Belts and a lot of other mods still available on Printables

[@theglowcloud2215]

I used my SV08 to print a TPU sling that keeps me from sitting on my ballsack. Best investment in my ballsack I've ever made.

[@RetroDaddyPH]

This is now my dream machine as a tinkerer. I want this even more than I want a bambulab. The multi toolhead mod also seems to be going well.

[@downsyndromebear]

I've had mine for a month or so. I love it and have very minor complaints. The biggest issue this machine faces is toxic members of its community. Tons of people complaining that it isn't a Bambu and frustrated about shipping times.

[@krollmond7544]

Typical Bambu members lol.

[@gunsmoke132]

​@@krollmond7544 bambu fans are worse than apple fans

[@krollmond7544]

@gunsmoke132 they seriously made this community worse, it's so sad. The 3D printing community was one of my favorites for awhile too...

[@riba2233]

As usual the only ones being toxlc and complaining are bambu haters, I haven't seen a single bambu fan here but ofc haters always need to mention Bambu unprovoked

[@downsyndromebear]

@@riba2233 I am not hating on Bambu at all. They definitely have set the standard for the appliance tier 3d printer. That being said, it can be frustrating when they are used as "the standard" for all types of 3d printers. There are still lots of people who want the diy modding printing experience.

[@Kaskets3D]

This is the next big upgrade I was thinking about.

[@thenextlayer]

Great video, very thorough. It was reaffirming to see that such an experienced reviewer had more or less the same conclusion!

[@jeffharrison5265]

Great information. This may be the core zy I've been waiting for.

[@oleurgast730]

Actually there are two very interesting upgrade videos about the SV08: Teaching Tech trys to do a toolchanger (actually I try it myself too, but I have not gotten my SV08 yet), and "The Next Layer" made an alternative coldend (drop-in replavement) to use the revo hotends. I just ordered two of them (85€ for two coldends aluminium made, from pcbway,incl. tax and shipping). Imho changing the nozzle to revo and adding a toolchanger are quite fascinating upgrades.

[@treyduval5399]

I was thinking about getting the micro Swiss drop in hot and replacement, but not sure how that compares to “the next layer” one that he did custom.

[@StarsAtNight1]

I read that the plastic base shrinks/expands with temperature, so the first layer fails when using the complete build plate. Read that the solution was to let the printer 30 min heat up before printing and do the calibration. Have you encountered this problem?

[@webshowpro]

Thanks, I’m still waiting on mine, can’t wait!

[@1supertec]

So glad you have tryed the easy sand PLA and shared your experience as i have been trying to hold of some but its always sold out now i know not to bother 👍.

[@1supertec]

Yeh your lucky, i live in manchester england and trust me with the exception of mid summer even PLA needs drying or it strings/angel hairs like crazy or at least Elegoo PLA dose as thats what i used mostly untill recently i have started pring a tone of stuff with ASA as i replaced all my printers with ones that have heated chambers.

[@DaveEtchells]

Excellent, balanced, detailed and honest review. This will help people decide of its right for them (and it will be for many) or if something else would be better, and shares info that will save a lot of pain for those who do opt for it. A model for what a good review should be. Kudos and thanks!

[@B0A2]

Hoping they take your and other reviewer’s suggestions!

[@eclypse3d]

The problem here is that they are using a physical probe and inductive, just disable the phyiscal and use the inductive probe (virtual) only in the FW for Z offset and be done with it, and make sure it probes before each print. At temp. You can also toss a eddy current probe on it or beacon, and even with the eddy it has thermal drift calibration for very little money.

[@downsyndromebear]

I believe as of now you can not use the Eddy probe due to the machine running a sovol forked version of klipper. I have seen posts that sovol is working on adding that into future releases though.

[@RobHasIdeas]

​@@downsyndromebear good news! Their fork doesn't actually have many huge changes from mainline Klipper. I have a... sneaking suspicion that a project to put vanilla Klipper on it will be available soon-ish.

[@marshallwebber9682]

Been watching this. Maybe I'll buy in the second production run when they've flogged the early bugs out.

[@hypocritical7379]

He got this in march so that time might be now

[@Barbasnoo]

I received my SV08 in the first batch of preorders. I have the same power supply AND the exact same shipping damage as you. I also am thinking I will never get to use the official enclosure as a result. However I’m not too upset. I don’t often print with advanced filaments that need an enclosure, and when I do, I have an X1 Carbon.

[@sarahadkins2540]

Can you upgrade the hot end to print engineering filaments?

[@anthonylong5870]

I ALMOST got one of these but after measurering i had nowhere to fit it. I ended up getting an Anycubic Kobra 2 Plus. Im really surprised how good it turned out being. Not sure why people give Anycubic a bad name.

[@NoMercyFtw]

I don't know what you're doing or not, but I haven't had a z offset problem with the Q1 pro, i cant wait to get my Sv08

[@AverageHouseHusband]

The SV08 was the perfect option for me been playing with mine for a bit, it arrived with a few things that annoyed me but I have resolved things on my own and some things I just do differently and they are a non issue. Way less time and money than building and tuning a Voron.

[@Doubletroublefursuits]

How loud is your Sovol? The belts on my Sovol are so loud where they sound like beeping when moving.

[@AverageHouseHusband]

@Doubletroublefursuits The fan noise is the loudest thing on my SV08.

[@Doubletroublefursuits]

@@AverageHouseHusband that’s crazy. Do you have a telegram or Instagram? Id like to message you what one of my prints sounds like and compare. Maybe there’s something on my end I’m doing wrong or maybe I got a faulty machine. If you don’t wanna dm I respect that.

[@hassosigbjoernson5738]

Hey @ModBot some months have passed. How about a follow up video to the Sovol SV08 machine?! Has it proven to be reliable? Do you still use it? Where mods "necessary" or does it still work out of the box? How has the "Voron support" developed? Are there parts and mods even available? I am not so much into this Voron scene, yet. But this Sovol seemed to be a good starting point. Now after some months: has this turned out to be true?

[@barmacg30]

Great review, thank you so much for your hard work. I pre-ordered one of these a couple of months ago. I am looking forward to trying it out and upgrading it. Would you mind telling me what the hottest temp you have used on the hot end of this printer?

[@Cr480mx]

I'd be interested in a comparison between what you consider a budget voron and this. I want to get a bigger printer, and would love to get into a core xy set up vs a bed slinger. Especially for someone who's not too familiar with core xy and klipper.

[@enosunim]

4:58 "There is a large piece of sheet metal"

[@Redline.john1986]

Hi, Whats the best corexy min 350 x350 Its for printing impeller blades so accurate and fast ? Thanks

[@lyndonfoster1090]

Thank you. Very good. I am interested for sure. Can you go over, or is there a note on your web on the changes you made to get rid of or control the annoying electronics fan noise? First time that Ive heard about the adjustible port on the board.Did you just move the plug or did you swap it out others have? A video on what you did and other fixes aa you learn them would be great. Thank you again.

[@downsyndromebear]

There is a video of someone explaining the mod, but I can't remember who did it off the top of my head. I replaced the fan with a noctua fan, which made it silent. It was very easy to do, only cost about $14.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Bit clunky of a release, but they at least seem willing to improve stuff, which is always nice

[@bmarquis3500]

I found the e3d revo heatsink adapter on pcbway and I'm curious to know your thoughts on it. Part of the reason that it's appealing is that the nozzle won't slip out because it would no longer be press fit into the hotend like the original is (which may be contributing to your inconsistent z offset). Could you look into this a little for us? And let us know what you think about it? Thanks.

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

I dont think a revo is the right hotend for this printer. Standard revo simply doesn't cut it in terms of flow rates (150mm/s on a 0,4mm nozzle max) and revo high flow is stupidly expensive, one brass HF nozzle costs 10% of the printer and performs about the same as stock. And you want multiple different nozzle sizes, otherwise revo is pointless, so you will be spending quite some money on the hotend. For what version of revo is the adapter? Probably also fits other better suited hotends too or other hotend mods are available.

[@TheDIYer]

Did sovol make changes in the build quality on the newer ones?

[@lukehome6206]

What is it that stops this from being a "budget voron"?

[@zola5584]

Im really waiting for updates for multi color technology….bambulab with ams win the market…and voron isnt make alternative (ERCF is really not popular option ) . sovol promote the mukticolor in the future

[@jamescullins2709]

How do you clear the heatbreak on the SV08. The small neddle will not go in but about 10mm from the top. It will go through from the bed side of the heatend.

[@st0mper121]

hmm debating between this and a Qidi Max 3

[@Co4l]

what choice did you make?

[@st0mper121]

@@Co4l I ended up doing both. got the qidi first very happy with quality of prints (profiles very tuned in and a lot of different ones) but I want to build a enraged rabbit. was limited in software. so i picked up a SV08 as well. I just got the sv08 about a week ago. very fast, Profiles need work. they are not bad though.

[@abitnutz6747]

Did you say a free fan upgrade or something? I couldn't quite make it out. Could you possibly repeat what you said about fixing the fan?

[@BrainStormzFTC]

I believe he plugged the fan into a port that is software-controlled, rather than always-on.

[@YouTubestopsharingmyrealname]

The phrase is, "Champing at the bit."

[@theglowcloud2215]

I'm glad someone else caught that. Now we can be pedants together!

[@leetpg]

You don't need to swap the port to control the fan speed.

[@AaronBittenbender]

The big question is, would u buy it with ur own money? Curious minds wanna know. Lol

[@AgentTDM376]

Is it possible to install a BLTouch for this if someone wants to use glass instead of the pei sheet?

[@3dpathfinder]

Still waiting on my shipping info

[@oldsalty3d122]

After watching this video, I watched another one by Maxamilst Workshop and he has pointed out that there is a big design flaw with the SV08. Nozzles are literally dropping out of the hotend during prints. Apparently, the nozzles are press fitted into the hotend and when printing PETG they become loose and just drop out. Have you heard of this happening? It looks like it hasn't happened to you yet or you would have said something. I'm on the fence with regards to buying an SV08, like you I feel that it has a lot of potential, but having nozzles just dropping out randomly isn't good. Update: Sovol is aware of the issue and hopes to have an updated hotend available and shipping with new units by the end of July.

[@ModBotArmy]

First time I am hearing about it. I believe they are using the same nozzles on their Comgrow t300 as well. They might be press fit, but theres alot of other hotends that use pressfittings as well. Wonder if he just caught a bad one or two. I anticipate there will be hotend upgrades coming for this thing but definitely not something I have experienced with this hotend.

[@oldsalty3d122]

@@ModBotArmy sounds good, just thought I would bring it to your attention. Keep up the good work, I look forward to watching your videos. 😁

[@berlinberlin4246]

​@@ModBotArmy about the nosel: can you ask sovol about the status of the V6 adapter? Sovol Sayed in a Livestream months ago there working on it. But I haven't heard no New status about it.

[@downsyndromebear]

From what I have gathered in the Sovol group, this has only happened to a handful of people.

[@ziggystardog]

Considering it comes with a spare nozzle, I feel the whole thing is overblown. Not saying the issue isn’t legit, but some complaints smell a bit of clout chasing.

[@RafaelDrumondRego]

How does it compare it to the Neptune 4?

[@NanobyteOnline]

2:11 Whats that for finger movement/touching? xD

[@BTom16]

I ordered mine in late April. No word, yet...

[@hobbyistnotes]

Nice review, 2.4 is the only Voron at this point I haven't built and with Sovol SV08 coming out I am not even sure if it's the best time to build one, especially if we take in consideration how much more accessible fast and quality 3D printing became in last 1.5 years. The only question left standing is it really worth to go for such overcomplicated kinematics.

[@zk_6312]

Seems like a good printer though I don't care for the small display.

[@ziggystardog]

Easily upgraded for

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

Sounds like its a good machine if you are not a beginner, because while very capable it can only reach its potential with fine tuning, as opposed to bambu that has very tuned slicer profiles on release. Most people forget that the quality also comes from good settings not just the machine itself.

[@BeefIngot]

You know what, at first this thing was pretty rough, but its cleaned up a little and looks pretty attractive compared to competitors. I also feel that while some might see not having a big aluminium bed as a negative, with how long it takes those things to spread the heat across them, I actually think its a positive to have a plate that can change temperature more quickly. I think these big aluminium plates could probably stand to shrink in average thickness/thermal mass quite substantially because currently it feels like the hurt more than they help apart from bragging rights about a level of precision that doesnt matter compared to the textured PEI sheet on top of it and the rest of the assembly. I think their sensor z offset solution is janky, but that can be worked on, modded and the next version can be much better. Honestly, this thing doesnt seem half bad, and seems recommendable as someone's second printer. With it being open source as well, I honestly can't see much of a reason for many people to go the full bore voron route with the costs savings you could use to make this just as good.

[@Badger_S197]

This printer ended up being a hot mess on my end. Nothing but issues.

[@xpectra4177]

isnt this core xyz?

[@Mobile_Dom]

no, the Z arent on the same belt loop as the XY are

[@winandd8649]

no

[@TheAfroman]

This is a great machine from what I have seen. But Sovol was completely unprepared for shipping. Orders have been delayed for months. Pretty much all video and content creators got them.. but customers aren’t as many as they should be. Hope they get this all worked out.

[@downsyndromebear]

I received my machine toward the end of May. For some reason it got delayed in a NJ warehouse for over two weeks. Maybe it was a one off situation, but I can't blame Sovol for FedEx being slow.

[@dizzyfpv4903]

*champing

[@BitcoinYooper]

I"ve dubbed mine the boat anchor 🤣🤣 Showed up with tool head and mount all goofed up tool head wont mount straight gets all torqued...Can't print a darn thing. Waiting for parts from China, and almost had it a month now...

[@Splarkszter]

DON'T BE FOOLED The sovol sv08 has MANY manufacturing issues. Specially the press fit nozzle that came out by itself.

[@Milkex]

that... comed out, by itself

[@abradolflinkler2830]

gay nozzle confirmed

[@Enjeenier]

I hate how modern 3d printer brands (except prusa) act like if you dont have a 700/ms SPEED & 20K ACCEL AND COREXY KINEMATICS AND FULLY ENCLOSED WITH MMU/AMS AND THE ABILITY TO PRINT GLASS-INFUSED CARBON FIBER NYLON AT 500/ms,your printer is a piece of garbage and should be thrown away immediately!

[@notchipotle]

No one said that lol Klipper and input shaping really change the game when it comes to speed, now we can print faster without sacrificing quality, sure prusa still has the best surface finish but at lower speed, it doesn't matter for functional parts.

[@Enjeenier]

Thats one aspect of things, but i was talking abt the brands in general, no the community made stuff like klipper

[@seboc1]

The benchy looks average

[@hhoop3876]

4th?

[@shawnmichaelis1609]

can this do multi color printing the a1's? Sorry if you cover this im still at the beginning of the video :)

[@riba2233]

No

[@Lucius-vx7bf]

2

[@thegotabetievlogs6898]

5th

[@Stylesidetruckguy]

First

[@tempacc9589]

Second

[@nodashipl]

I think your too soft when reviewing printers and you posting a affiliate link straight away in the description solidifies my decision to part ways with this channel. Good luck.

[@ModBotArmy]

I waited an extra month to release this to make sure I was thorough instead of doing a launch video which is where most sales come. I always highlight the good and the bad, which every printer had some of. It’s the viewers decision to ultimately decide which outweighs which. 👍

[@SmurfHunter]

Dude bought a new bed for the printer and you think he's too soft? Okay man

[@downsyndromebear]

If you are parting ways, why feel the need to make an announcement about it? I don't see the logic there unless you are just looking for some special boy attention. I have an SV08 and can attest that his review was spot on with my experience with the machine so far.

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

Sounds like its a good machine if you are not a beginner, because while very capable it can only reach its potential with fine tuning, as opposed to bambu that has very tuned slicer profiles on release. Most people forget that the quality also comes from good settings not just the machine itself.

[@suzyamerica4679]

There's a certain market niche for printers that take some tinkering to make them function perfectly. I started with an SV07+ and still have it for large prints .. but .. most of what I make is smaller than that, and for that stuff I use a Adventurer 5M which didn't need any tweaking to make right. The way it homes the axes also calibrates them for dimension. No need to mess with those now stone-age bed leveling wheels or paper tests. And now I am just wishing that Flashforge will make a larger, hotter version of the 5M.