TECH TIP - Setting sag the Race Tech way

[@gusjordaan9909]

Great info thanks RACE TECH

[@scottbolen5246]

Could you do one on front spring pre load? KYB.

[@scottycook9907]

Go ahead!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

After much thought after riding again after 18 years off a bike, it seems to me there are 2 was of setting up your bike today. 1) The new way, people ride more forward with handlebars rotated forward, and to compensate for that, they are running more rear end sag (105mm or more), and more static sag (about 35mm). I don't like the way the front end feel in corners with the bars up that high so I went back to our old set up. 2) rotate the bars back down so the ends of the grips are pointing down a bit, (corners so much easier for me), and get the sag set between 95-100mm, with the static sag at about 20-25mm.) I see a lot of amateur kids with go-pros on the modern tall bikes with high bars, who can't corner worth a crap, and pretty much have to have a berm to turn at all. Even in the C class in the 80's, there would be a couple of slow guys, but I have never seen so many slow guys in the corners as I do today. Like everybody.

[@barnescycle]

Thank you for this post, I just check my sag after the holidays and now that my bike has 35 hrs and my sag was 120 with 45 free sag. I'm now at 25 free sag with 105 107 race sag but after reading your comment and how I struggle with rutted turns I'm debating on running 95 sag

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@barnescycle I would not make that big of a jump at first. But I bet 100 mm of rear end sag is a good place to start. I lowered my YZ250 suspension .75" o each end, and found 98 mm is the sweet spot for the stuff I ride on. I can feel it if the spring sacks a bit to over 100 mm as the front end wants to push on flatter corners. Under 98 mm, and I can feel it tuck easier.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Also, I don't know who much you weigh. But you will want to make sure you have good spring rates for your weight, before you do anything else. A heavy guy, on most stock suspension, especially after setting the rear sag, will feel so low in the front, the bike can become un-ride-able. I never noticed that when racing for a decade at 180 lbs. But a new bike years later at 220,-----oh boy did I learn. :)

[@UTPP]

Great explanation, thank you.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

My YZ250 has 2mm of a friction zone. If it had 5 mm, I think I would make sure the linkage and swing arm pivot are greased well. The shock length can change with a pre-load adjustment? The rider is in a slightly different position, (or ate, took a dump, etc.), for the other measurement. Have you ever read the "Motorcycle suspension bible" by Paul Thede? lol

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Chain too tight? That was a good point.

[@scottsheppard4735]

Go ahead🤙

[@ErikISkogen]

How about the front?

[@michaelwendler5589]

I understand that you guys are the suspension gurus... but what about free sag? This should of been discussed so that other people have an understanding of whether they have the correct spring rate for their weight.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

True. It's a new generation. I can go through a MXA mag today with a red teacher pen when they write about anything technical, but the problems are in every industry today.

[@davidciesielski8251]

Thanks

[@TheSpainy]

Is this asfalt only or would that completely change these settings?

[@joshuaalley5925]

I need a stiffer ride. to much sag in rear suspension. I’m 225 lbs so I don’t know if I need to buy a stiffer spring or just do the math and adjust accordingly. Also need to adjust the front suspension for a an overall more sporty ride. Any help much appreciated. I have a 2022 gas gas Mc 450f with WP suspension.

[@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602]

You def. need a proper spring for you weight , stock spring is good up to 190lbs

[@EarthSurferUSA]

You need stiffer fork springs and shock spring. I had the same problem starting riding again after 18 years off, and 40 lbs more (220 at the time). If you set the sag on that soft rear stock spring (sag will be the same no matter what spring you use), the front will be so low, the bike front end is really "nervous", (because you lost front end "trail", part of "rake and trail", that keeps the wheel steady). Te Race tech site has a chart for rifer weight and spring rate. Do that first, before any other adjustments. There are no adjustments that would fix my soft stock springs with that weight.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602 That depends on the bike, but I would say 190 lbs is the high mark for stock springs on the stiffest bikes. 180 probably is more true for most people on a stock 250 or larger bike.

[@joshuaalley5925]

@@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602 it’s a 450 and it’s a factory bike.

[@joshuaalley5925]

@@EarthSurferUSA thanks for the advice

[@robinator503]

Yes

[@BajaTravelerXR650R]

How about free sag? I've been setting my sag up for 35 years and was scratching my head when the expert was calling out numbers? What was he talking about?

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I call sag "rider sag" (rider on the bike), and "bike sag" (just the bike weight. The bike sag is used to tell you if your spring rate is good. After you set the rider sag, measure the bike sag. If it is under 15 mm, you need a stiffer spring. If it is over 25 mm, you can use a weaker spring. Those are old school numbers before the bars were rotated forward (a free style set up basically), and riders are riding a bit more forward on the bike. That "teases" the front end "trail", so riders are going to about 105 mm or a bit more (used to be about 100 mm), and accepting up to 35 mm of bike sag. I am too old of a dog to try new tricks (don't like crashing), and the bike geometry is basically the same since 1982,---so you can set it up either way. I stick with what I know at my age. :) Doug in Michigan

[@BajaTravelerXR650R]

Why worry about pulling a measurement from the center of the axle? Unless the end of the tape fits snug its going to be hard to get the center everytime. Clip the axle nut seems much more logical, but I'm not the "expert". I hope they rebuild bettter than they set up.

[@macmacc7402]

I am 220 pounds. How do I calculate my SAG number? How would I calculate it for somebody who is 150 pounds?

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Get the right spring rates for the rider weight first, before any other adjustment Then set the sag for the best bike handling, (last, the clickers for fine tuning, and that can get complicated) I like the rear sag closer to 100 mm than 105, so I don't always need a berm to turn. :)

[@Vank508]

My sag is 55mm. I just ordered Race Tech 5.4kg shock spring. I weigh 155lbs. Am I going in the right direction? Should I get the gold valve also?

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Ride with a fat GF on the back. :)

[@paulhetherington3854]

RT'TECH' = MOHYK' - RKN'TN'-- Learned in! That mean: "You will be, damn destroyed!"

[@GNX157]

You should at least mention checking the static sag after doing the rider (dynamic) sag. Status is the sag from extended to compressed just by the weight of the bike, no rider. If your manual says the bike is equipped with a rear spring for say a 165 lb rider and that’s not you, then you go adjust your dynamic sag, then your setup may end up too far from acceptable, because you’re too light, or more likely too heavy, say 200lbs.

[@andrewauman40]

Ok this still doesnt answer where your sag should be set at 😅

[@justinreid1986]

Check your owners manual

[@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602]

@@justinreid1986 He said set at 96mm standing up.

[@paulhetherington3854]

And my PHAMZ, and I, "Own KTM!" Cannot claim - any of thee - ABOVE! YZ= frame || HRC motor! They didn't mention - any YZ chas? Not even - them crazy AMA! AMA = "I attacked eu!"

[@___asd159gh43]

Put your richard on your bike

[@paulhetherington3854]

/sF(x)= p'''(z= bcvR'''itTn) + {sfr : frqs} < labx id mtrx cvIIIr'R''' abv 4/ /cF(y) int = avn cg(xz) sM(R'''cvk)//> P'parch id mtrx(II ljz' + III ljx int= sF(x)) dbl paavlow || kon/