TECH TIP: Silence a Creaking Quarq

[@przemekmacioek6458]

Just wanted to say this advice silenced my bike for good after months of trying to find the source of noise. The hardest part was sourcing Loctite 609. Love the channel BTW! Tons of great advice

[@BBInfinite]

Many thanks for the praise and we're glad we could help.

[@memyself8221]

helpful and entertaining at the same time 🚴‍♀

[@jamesshields1969]

Very helpful video brother, Have you ever used GRX rings on the DubFour setup and or did it look any different than when you install the Dura-ace rings on a DubFour???

[@BBInfinite]

I'm guessing we're talking about a Quarq Dfour? If so, no, we have not. I'm thinking the chainline is built into the crank spider and not the ring, so my guess is that the GRX ring will bolt up and run in the same spot a DA or Ultegra ring would. Great question that we'll have to find the definite answer to soon.

[@tobegan3753]

Great video!

[@BBInfinite]

Thank you.

[@paulbourcier1515]

How easy it to remove the spider at a later time to move it to a different arm with the loctite installed?

[@BBInfinite]

It'll come apart no problem. The fit is really loose.

[@paulbourcier1515]

Did not take the creak out. Swapping out the OEM BB with a threaded Token to see if that dies the trick.

[@BBInfinite]

@@paulbourcier1515 I think you're chasing a creak that's not in the BB, my friend, hence the inability to fix it by fixing the bb. Before taking anything apart we highly recommend that you examine the other things that could be causing the problem. We’ve compiled a handy blog that outlines a proven, methodical process for finding creaks and silencing them by starting at the easiest and slowly moving toward the difficult: www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/news/74410883-kill-that-creak

[@eddeking123]

In the video you say 5Nm for final torque but on the spider it says 4Nm? Im confused because in manual it says 5 and on spider 4....

[@BBInfinite]

I recommend 4.5Nm. Honestly, I'd just use the torque spec in the manual IF the manual is recent, as in, newer than the production date of the crank. The reason is, manuals get updated as new tehcnical information arrives from the field over time whereas you can't just open up every box, erase the laser etch, and re-mark it. So, I'd go with the manual unless it's an obvious misprint that's out of range by a a few Nm's.

[@eddeking123]

@@BBInfinite Ohh okey I see. Thanks for that. Will torque it up to 4,5Nm then. I dont think that extra 0,5 will make difference in the powerreadings but maybe keep the spider firmer to the crank

[@BBInfinite]

It'll be fine.