Technical gear for Climbing Expeditions

In this video I provide an overview of gear you might use on a climb of a technical 6,000 meter peak (peaks around 20,000ft to 23,000ft) in the Himalayas or the Andes.
Most popular 6k peaks would not require this much equipment because fixed ropes are likely to be in place over steep sections, and steep terrain is generally limited. This would be true for popular peaks in Nepal such as Island Peak (Imja Tse), Mera Peak, Labuche East, Mardi Himal, Pisang Peak, and Yala Peak. In the Andes this would be true for popular peaks in Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru, and Argentina such as Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe, Huayna Potosi, Sajama, Nevado Urus, Nevado Pisco, and the infamous Aconcagua via the popular routes.
However, if you are attempting a seldom-climbed mountain, an unusual route on a popular mountain, or a mountain that contains sustained steep terrain requiring leader protection then this overview becomes more relevant. Some such peaks- if they are popular- are likely to have ample fixed ropes in place, and may require very little protection equipment. This would be true for a climb of AmaDablam via the Southwest Ridge for example. Other climbs might require more consideration of strategy and style, since some ropes may be in place, existing ropes may be buried in snow, or ropes may not be present. This is (currently) true of peaks like Cholatse, Nirekha Peak, Kusum Kangru, Ombigaichen, Mt. Abi (Kangchung Shar), Alpamayo, and Artesonraju for example.
I'll be using this specific equipment on two climbs in Nepal between mid-October and mid-December. One of these peaks has seen few ascents and little information is available. Our strategy is to use a combination of fixed ropes and belaying to establish a high camp above an ice fall and then climb the upper mountain in more alpine style, leaving rappel anchors in place for our descent. Terrain includes steep snow, rock, and ice. Not pictured are snow bars, which are a form of snow protection commonly used in Nepal. These are similar to pickets, but have a much sharper end for penetrating hard snow that is commonly found on alpine faces at high altitude.

[@georgeleonardo9676]

Love this, super good to get an idea of equipment used. Would love to see more of this for different objectives too!

[@skillsforclimbing]

Thanks for the positive feedback @georgeleonardo9676! Yeah, I'm usually too stressed for time before expeditions to make videos for packing. I should try to do this more.

[@DevinH-64]

Highest quality content, great presenter. Thank you very much.

[@skillsforclimbing]

Much appreciated!

[@justins4373]

Appreciate your videos Glen, good luck with your trip!

[@neil57able1]

Great stuff. I’m looking at doing Mirror Peak in the not to distant future. Enjoy your trip. 😊

[@elduderino_dude_hisdudeshi4957]

I heckled you at Yonah last weekend lol! Thanks for making these videos and good luck with your expedition!

[@skillsforclimbing]

Thanks a bunch!

[@gregclimbs]

Who makes the adze hammer? Neat idea

[@gdoldays9964]

Another useful video, thank you 🤙🏼

[@neil57able1]

Hi Glen, I love your crampon bag. I’ve googled ferm line designs but can’t find them. Could you please provide me with their web address. Thanks

[@brianrodman1033]

Firn Line Designs should bring them up if you google it (I initially tried to spell it the same as you).