Tecumseh Series 3 Series 4 Carburetor Float, Needle, Seat and Fuel Shutoff on the Craftsman II EP 4

In this video I install a fuel shut off and replace the Tecumseh Series 3, Series 4 carburetor float, needle and seat along with a new bowl gasket.
#tecumseh #carburetor #Craftsman

[@640amthemix]

Great new channel. Step by step DIY instructions to keep equipment working and on the road 👍 keep them coming Brian

[@5beesgarage]

Thanks for the comment, will do!

[@640amthemix]

@@5beesgarage And throw a CB on that tractor, you never know you just might copy 640AM The Mix! 😁

[@ShutterSpeak]

I think you may get to put it to the test this week... maybe some more snow. Purrs like a kitten at the end. Well done.

[@5beesgarage]

Thanks Joe. If we get more snow I will showcase another tractor with plow along with another snowblower I recently repaired.

[@ChrisXOutdoors]

I love the needle and seat tool! I also use a bread twist tie with some of the cloth stripped back. Nice video Brian. Stay warm 😂

[@5beesgarage]

Thanks Chris. I actually bought the tool after the video was done. The bread bag twist tie works good. I used a couple weeks ago on a snowblower carb cleaning. I wish I would have video'd that one as it was the worst carb I have ever seen. The bowl was filled with a black hard tar type residue. Thanks for the comment!!

[@CMCSS-to3to]

That's pretty cool, no laptop needed to tune this thing.

[@5beesgarage]

Nope, old school. No electrons needed. LOL

[@taekwondobro]

Put a holly 4 barrel carb on it

[@640amthemix]

If we are going big I say LS swap it!

[@5beesgarage]

I am not sure but I don't think the front suspension can support the weight of the LS. haha

[@5beesgarage]

Maybe a 6 pack instead!

[@taekwondobro]

@@5beesgarage there wont be any snow left in antartica

[@billkrause4585]

Don't trust those needle & seats after cutting your lawn. Do as I, I have installed in-line fuel shutoff valves upstream of the fuel filters on all my equipment where possible.

[@5beesgarage]

I completely agree Bill. I am doing the same. Thanks for the comment.

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

Great information to have! Just curious what size fuel hose did you use? I just picked up a Craftsman II of the same application and I'm getting ready to redo the fuel lines on it.

[@5beesgarage]

Thanks for the comment. I honestly can not remember what size the fuel line was. I am sorry.

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

@@5beesgarage No worries! I found it. Luckily the hose even hard as a rock had the manufacturing print still on it. It was 1/4 inch ID.

[@tobyu145]

That will certainly get the job done and for educational demonstration purposes it is fine but I find and real-world repair, it is a waste of time to remove the carburetor. Also, too many people mess up linkage and sprains and sometimes even governor adjustment by removing the carb. I do 98% of my carburetor cleanouts and and needle and seat and float replacements about every even removing the carb. Sure, you have to work a little bit harder but it takes far less time. If you have one that's not leaking and you're leaving the needle and seat and place you just pop the bowl off and most likely the gasket and take that and the jet over to your workbench to clean out the holes and clean out the bowl nicely. If you are doing the needle and seat or float you remove them and spray off the carb insides with spray carb cleaner then install the new parts. You can also adjust the float with a small flat head without taking the float back out. I do several of these a day and takes about 8 minutes for a clean out and 13 for needle and seat. This video was 26 mins. I have rows of them to do so I have prefected the fastest method that works. Most shops have gone to new carb replacement but that still takes longer on most items than my cleanout. The new Briggs plastic carb is close though. Takes me 10-12 mins with only 2 screws to clean out but replacement is 8-10 with 4 screws and linkage pop off. I could do it in under 6 if I just replaced the key tube assembly and still be 2 screws but that's a waste of money when you just need to blow out and clean the old one.

[@5beesgarage]

Sometimes the carb needs a deeper cleaning than what can be accomplished on the machine,

[@tobyu145]

@@5beesgarage true but that's only a rare sometimes because most of the time the mower was working fine last season or even a few weeks ago and it's only mine early clogged up enough not to run and the carbs does not have rust and crap stuck in the passages throughout. If you're only doing one for yourself occasionally then it doesn't make much difference but if you're doing them professionally, like thousands of them, like I do then due to the statistical number of the way they clog you save a whole lot of time doing them the way I do as opposed to taking the whole thing off and spending 35 to 45 minutes or maybe longer on each one. I had this discussion with a number of other techs online they try to take the price justification for extra quality claiming that their way possibly being more thorough is better when in reality, unless the carb is excessively dirty it makes no to the end result or the longevity of the clean. You of course have to be smart enough and pay enough attention to realize when one is going to be just fine or when one is so dirty once you pop the bowl off that you need to go ahead and then take it off and do a cleaning of the other areas.

[@5beesgarage]

@@tobyu145 I have other videos where I do not remove the carb and just a quick spray with carb cleaner is all it took. I try to showcase both ways.

[@marcopolo-zh4je]

I have a dead lawnmower at my house, do you think it's kinda similar to this carb set-up?

[@5beesgarage]

It is probably very similar.