Tekno SCT 410.3 - Under The Hood

We go under the hood of my Tekno RC SCT 410.3 to show all the changes I've done to it, and how you can do so too.
Setup sheet now available on Tekno's website here:
www.teknorc.co...
Parts I suggest everybody put on their truck:
TKR6146 Delrin Shock Cartridge set
TKR5161 AL A block
TKR5162 AL B block
TKR5149A AL Diff cross pins
Also the AL C and D blocks if not doing the mod that uses the other C and D blocks mentioned below.
Option parts I like and also put on mine:
TKR5504 Air Control Guards
TKR5060C CF Steering Servo Brace
TKR5174 Rear Arm Mud Guards (for 410.3 arms)
Parts required to complete these modifications:
TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs
TKR8100 Ackerman Plate
TKR8104 Bell Cranks
TKR8163 .4 C block
TKR8164 .4 D block
TKR5530 Original SCT410 Rear Arms
TKR5033 Rear Arm Mudguards (for original SCT410 rear arms)
TKR6037 Yellow front shock springs
TKR8006 EB48.4 Chassis (optional)
Thanks to these fine companies for their continued support of my racing:
www.TeknoRC.com
www.SMC-Racing.net
www.sanwa-denshi.com
www.norcalhobbies.com
/ doubleedgeracing
(You can find a jpg setup sheet for this on the post there)
Tracks that I've run this on:
hillsideraceway...
/ the-barn-300840908803
tracks.amainho...
evolutionrcrace...
fullthrottlercp...
rcexcitement.com
www.lcrcraceway...
Here is the body:
www.jconcepts.n...
Special thanks to Matt A at Tekno for working with me on this. As always, also special thanks to my wife for joining in the pursuit of my passions and for my savior Jesus Christ, who makes me a much better person than I would otherwise be, and forgives me when I'm not.

[@jeffgilcris4538]

Thank you sir I drove it today all I can say is wow it’s handling was awesome I’m placing the parts order now ! Thanks again

[@justpoet]

Glad to have helped! :)

[@ScottzillaRC]

Thanks for the info, really enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.

[@justpoet]

Glad you enjoy them. Hope they help people. :)

[@LawrenceTimme]

Thanks, this was very helpful

[@LiveFreeOrRIP]

i hope to meet you one day at hillside or the barn one day.

[@justpoet]

I'm typically at The Barn in the winter and Hillside in the summer when not off to a trophy race. :) Next one of those for me is Full Throttle Freeze at the end of the month, which is a great event to check out with great people running the place too.

[@jeffreypainter3056]

Hello I am having trouble getting the toe and camber set in the front. Could you tell me what the measurements should be on the front camber links and the steering assembly?

[@justpoet]

For the front steering, make sure that when you put on the .4 ackerman parts that you either use shorter steering links or dremel a few mm off of the existing ones. This is needed due to the .4 ackerman being wider in the middle of the vehicle.

[@codysb05]

If you get the eb48.4 chassis to swap into your sct410.3 do you have to make any modifications? Also can you use the EB48.4 aluminum A and B block?

[@justpoet]

To use the EB48.4 chassis, you want to also swap the C/D block like I did here, as the chassis is wider there. If you use the EB48.4 chassis with the .4 C/D blocks, there are no chassis modifications needed. You can use the A/B blocks from any 8th scale vehicle with/on any other 8th scale vehicle, as they're all interchangeable, just with different pills (oval on .2 and earlier, square on .3 and later), or screws (cap heads on .4, countersunk screws on earlier).

[@codysb05]

@@justpoet Do you have to modify the tray still with the eb48.4 chassis?

[@justpoet]

@@codysb05 The side tray in the back will have a screw hole that no longer has a hole on the chassis to connect to, and gets in the way of the C block. So you'll either need to cut it or use the EB48.4 side guards and not have nerf bars on the sides.

[@codysb05]

@@justpoet Hey I think I must have a newer kit because I just did this conversion last night and one the screw hole is no longer there on my chassis and they have made the sct410.3 side guards the same exact dimensions as the eb48.4. Also the cutout in the chassis fits the eb48.4 c block perfectly now. The droop screws still barely hit the stops though. It must have been a running update that you influenced. Can you use the low frequency springs for this? It seems like the rideheight might not be able to be reached at 23 front 21 rear with the normal springs. Cant wait to actually try this out now.

[@humblebee4744]

Do you intend to use the tkr8006 chassis?

[@justpoet]

For the moment I've put a skid plate on it so it won't wear more, as the skid plate now brings the thickness in the rear back to just about normal. Once it gets a full rebuild, which hopefully is soon, then it'll be getting the 8006 chassis as the replacement so it will be easier to put the rear blocks on like this.

[@humblebee4744]

Understood. I'm contemplating just using 8006 for weight savings that's it. Will my c block wobble a bit if I make the upgrade?

[@justpoet]

If you don't intend to do this mod, you should get either the SCT410.3 or EB48.3 chassis instead of the EB48.4 chassis, as the .4 will be wider in the back and could cause issue with the stock setup.

[@humblebee4744]

Thank you for the input

[@sean5comet]

I am using the eb48.4 chassis, all you need to do is clearance a few spots in the back with a grinder and use a jewelers file to clean it up. After that use different shaped jewelers file to chamfer the top side for further clearancing. I used the original chassis as a template for the rear of the new one. Use a sharpie marker to outline the pattern. You can also use the plastic DE racing rear skid plate to help with the outline. Attach the rear arms to the diff case and continually trial fit it so you only remove minimal material. Once you can see light between the frame and the areas of the original 410.3 arms and they move freely up down touching the droop screws that are screwed into the arms all the way, you know you have removed enough material for fitment. Takes about 1 hour and some patience. Most the time was in filing the chamfered edges on the top sides.