TeraFlex Install: TJ High Steer Conversion and Trackbar Kit

[@Malotta4702]

Had to give it a like after seeing that bicep flex💪

[@TwoWheeledBooBear]

D'oh! Didn't even pay attention to those. Thanks for pointing them out lol, I wouldn't want to dabble with disassembling them either.

[@DesertRunner602]

Will the drag link fit the WJ knuckle swap on an XJ without modification?

[@markbrites1907]

Old video, but I was wondering I have a artec truss on my d44, I’m looking to put the high steer track bar mounts on. My question is would the axle side mount still fit if I have an artec truss? Thanks!

[@Joester1908]

I have the knuckle on my TJ, which has a Rubicon D44 in the front. I really like the knuckle. I used Chevy 3/4 ton TREs, and I bought bigger inserts so I could use the Chevy taper. I had to drill out the driver side knuckle. It works ok, but I did not buy offset TREs like the ones that come on the Teraflex tie rod. I am now updating them to that style, and I am installing the Teraflex track bar bracket. I made my own, and it is not as well made as the Teraflex, and does not have a place to install the stabilizer. I did a lot of research before doing my steering conversion. I believe that the Teraflex is the best option.

[@roderickmchardy3650]

it would have been useful if you gave a bit of info on the steering drop link, which one did you use ?

[@longhorn8459]

He didn’t use a steering drop link, he used a factory pitman arm wiring a drop track bar bracket and an axle side track bar raised bracket.

[@GoldenShaolinNutz]

how much does a job like this cost?

[@matthewpaquette901]

Would you recommend this with a 3 inch suspension lift for a LCOG setup on a 97 TJ?

[@vincefairleigh6899]

I'm a big fan of you guys! But this high steer kit doesn't appear to bring the tie rod out of harms way, to me it sits too low, any plans on tweaking this? Could you install the lower tie rod on the upper side of the knuckle instead of under?

[@jerrywhalen2100]

I was thinking the same thing for high steer kit it wasn't very high

[@DumbCarGuy]

They said you can mount either on top or bottom. Funny because he said lets go full top then he actually did full bottom mounting.

[@TheOriginalLugNutz]

I was looking at your highsteer setup as an add on to the LCG Long Arm kit, but a little confused by this "High Steer" part. I understand the advantages of getting rid of the inverted Y steering set up from the factory, and that this is certainly superior, but how is this considered a "Hi Steer" set up when in the video you mounted the tie rod ends on the under side of the knuckles? The whole idea of a high steer setup is to move the steering components up higher, away from the risk of impact. The set you did in the video was a whole lot of work, but by using the straight across, knuckle to knuckle tie rod in the same undermount orientation, you've actually reduced component clearance. Why would you do all that work and not "flip" them all to the upper sides? In the video you mention upper mounting is an option, but when you were setting up the new sway bar link mounts, it didn't look like there would be enough clearance for them.

[@teraflexsuspensions]

+Chris M (LugNutz) The kit comes with a tapped insert sleeve that allows you to drill out the driver side knuckle and flip the tie rod to the top side of both the new passenger side knuckle and the drive side knuckle. This gives you the extra clearance you are looking with the tie rod. They did not feel it was necessary with this lift kit as often when you flip the tie rod to the top you also flip the drag link to the top and the angles where just all wrong with the height the red Jeep in the video was sitting. So it is there as an option we just did not use it this time.

[@slappygilmore5040]

for real lol wish there was an easier high steer option that didnt interfere with our axle sway bar mounts

[@wvjeepguy8178]

Any pics or info on using the axle side bracket to mount a hydro assist cylinder?

[@AgentSmith13]

What size MTRs are on the Red 4dr in the intro? 35s?

[@TwoWheeledBooBear]

Great tutorial, though I think it'd been a good idea to remove the brake rotor from the unit bearing to lessen the load on your arms when trying to keep the axle shaft centered. Seems like you're making more work for yourself to try and keep your seals in tact. Would be a lot easier to do so without the extra 10lbs of weight on the end there.

[@jimlayhey1965]

i put 2.5 in lift my wheels stick out 1/2 to 3/4 inch on drivers side my local shop told told me this is ok to leave it it wont hurt it is this correct my lift came with relocation bracket for the rear

[@jamesmerkel9442]

when welding brackets & using steel proper strength & thickness, how come we don't add a weld notch or thin trench cut, on bracket & frame or member. Smooth is tough esp shit the twists or under flex or suspension loads would seem an easy added margin of strength.

[@mud15x]

I have a question on your guys 4 inch lcg pro lift for tj. I just got it and got jeep back. The bridge over dif is bolted to diff bolts. Front side its not welded or anything. I was wondering if its suppose to be. Sure looks like it. Ty

[@lloydtucker5647]

So a drop Pittman arm is not needed with this kit?

[@ryan.vision]

11:20 hahaha good stuff!!

[@jamesmerkel9442]

A big load weld could get hugs XXXXXXXXX cut w/dremal.

[@westwing23]

So whats the benifit of this Hi-steer?

[@trsoff-road321]

westwing23 better steering geometry and clearance on the tie rod to keep it from getting beatup on the trail

[@hunainathsystems9184]

My TJ skid plate nuts were spinning, I bought one new set of all 6 from ebay and I amg good to go now..Nice product, Thanks ebay !

[@bugman1964]

I think they left them on due to the manual hubs.

[@kenns9]

why do all this conversion on a D30 when it is going to break as soon as you hit a speed bump in a parking lot?

[@mburrup]

+kenns9 It will also work on a stock front 44 such as a Rubicon for example.

[@proyjy]

Awesome

[@sedeaver]

what the Civic???

[@jamesmerkel9442]

ball joints basic r going away & replaced w/ stronger joint med grade or hymm heavy grade & every thing is getting beefier. They hve a rebuild-able super ball joint lifetime of tires deal also.

[@jamesmerkel9442]

Prts u can adjust w/out removing them slick too.

[@jamesmerkel9442]

father in law teaches welding & worked in tight submarines, where u get it right or billion dollar steel rock guess should hve asked him.

[@eliassalazar4350]

It cost 1500.00

[@jamesmerkel9442]

I think rotors r to hard & should wear more, so pads last longer. Bc not much diff in price for racing pads carbon fiber or such anymore, & labor is about the same doing rotor & pads, & no 1 really resurfaces them unless big truck rotors. God just guessing but if rotors slotted & cross drilled & softer metal I'll beat w/the right softer metal & wear we could shave another 10ft off the stopping distance vs hard tuff long wear rotors. F-that lets make them wear out same time +a yr as pads do.