Tesla Model 3 - Hansshow Power Liftgate tips and tricks for a better installation V4 and above

After studying the installation instructions and watching numerous videos, I tackled my installation. I like to find improved methods and techniques for a cleaner custom install. I recommend watching the Hansshow installation videos as well as from other content creators. Come back to this video for tips and tricks for a easier, smoother and more professional installation.
I have installed V6 which is the latest version as of December 2020. However, my tips should apply to any version.
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DISCLAIMER: This installation requires very good knowledge of electronic installation and safety around connections in a car even though this is plug & play relatively speaking. Only you can assess your own abilities and risk. Installation and using my recommendations are solely at your risk. You may or may not also impact your Tesla Warranty. If unsure about your risks and warranty, have your installation done by a professional. I hold no legal liability for my recommendations.

[@mincooper]

Running the strut cables through the blue grommets is the best option. One thing that would even be better for guaranteed waterproofing is to hole-punch the blue grommet with the hole very slightly smaller than the cable itself. That blue grommet is fairly stretchy and you can expand it to fit the molex ends through and you end up with a perfect seal. It's a minor knitpicky thing but it will minimize potential issues

[@paulsnim5761]

Thank you….

[@jhogoboom]

Fantastic video!! Really like the improvements you implemented!!

[@Mixturerich]

Thanks!

[@reven_]

Great tips, will def do these things when Im going to install my trunk kit this weekend :)

[@reven_]

3 weeks later, it went great but I couldnt for the love of me get the cables through the small holes in the back without lowering the bumper. I did not screw the sensor to the access panel. Instead I removed the ridges needed with an xacto knife, sanded a bit and cleaned it and used the included M3 tape. Seems to be working fine. However, the trunk seems to be a bit more higher now than before, how do I make it lower and more snug?

[@Mixturerich]

Sounds like a good install. As for your trunk, there aren't any adjustments that I could see. Perhaps remove and reinstall. Perhaps it is not seated correctly. Fit and finish on the model 3 is sketchy for some of these things.

[@ariip]

You might want to read my comments above. Sorry if you already installed it.

[@ariip]

If you can obtain them there is a much better way to run the wiring for the struts to go inside. Rather than the slopping and leak risking way of going behind the tailights or having to go all the way down to the trunk well through existing plugs there. This way will look like oem and only have the wire outside for about 3 inches. I made new holes in the vertical rain channel wall just behind the factory boot going to the trunk lid and used another sealing boot/groomet to come out which has a 90 degree and is just above where the strut mounts. Identical thing on the drivers side just by itself since there is no factory boot there. Of course access and for the trunk lid wire fishing anyway, I removed the inside deck covering in order to facilitate access. I was also replacing the speakers anyway with the carbon fiber upgrade set from Light Harmonics anyway.

[@Mixturerich]

I used to be an automotive electronics installer in a previous life many years ago. One rule of thumb was to avoid drilling new holes in the car. But if it works for you, great! Hopefully, you filed the hole edges and prime/enamel so no rust can start. A grommet can trap moisture on those edges.

[@ariip]

@@Mixturerich That is aluminum in that area as far as rust is concerned. The grommet covers the hole and overlaps it completely around on both sides under pressure and then had a tube heading outward and downward eliminating any chance of water getting in the penetration. . It is the same kind of grommet used for the trunk lid wiring. This grommet has a longer lip around and has a tighter fit than the factory one for the trunk lid. I had to really work it in to get it to expand over the edges. Any such grommet would completely seal from water getting under it. It is also on a vertical under the rear glass overhang and with the trunk closed, water does not really come down, but flows under it. It would be easy to just pop it off and reseat it or touch it up if you wanted to. Remember this is also on a vertical wall above where water runs below it. Under a tail light cramped behind its surface or a lower place below which accumulates more water flow is more likely to hold water around it or allow water in. The grommet in the trunk is a hole in a flat surface without tubing directing it away. This grommet is double sided with tube traveling away from the opening. Many I have spoken to still consider the other methods makeshift and risky. This is the only one that is actually how the oem would do it if they are installing such equipment.

[@Mixturerich]

Hello Ari, so technically aluminum wouldn't rust as that term is "reserved" for oxidation in iron. Aluminum does corrode though, of this I have no doubt as I just had my aircraft inspected for aluminum corrosion. More importantly though, that area is not aluminum. It is steel, go check with a magnet. My recommendation, from experience, dress the cutout with primer/paint to ensure that rust does not start under your grommet. Your grommet can perhaps prevent large water droplets from travelling under its lip, but it cannot stop humidity forming underneath it. In my days past, as an automotive tech, and on the rare occasion when I did not have any option other than to drill through the body of a car, it was a golden rule to cover any bare metal with primer/paint. It is virtually inevitable that rust will start there. The moment you drilled it, the oxidation process started, even if immeasurable. Additionally, the considerations from a warranty point of view are not of insignificance. Even if one can argue that the installation of this device already puts certain warranty issues under scrutiny, I wouldn't want to add drilling through the body on this list. This is all personal choice of course. I am just offering my best practical advice. Cheers

[@Daywalker-hz5ph]

Great job 👏

[@ariip]

Couple of things. Rather than create a lump in the floor relying on the floor material to give under pressure there is a much better way to run the wire for the can connection. . If you follow the door jamb on the passenger side up to halfway under the right front seat, there is a trough in the floor of the car that runs across the 2 front seats from side to side. This is a huge trough where you will see other wires run and it is about 1 inch deep and 2 inches front to back. You can run up the side uner the door jamb trim to this trough, and then right inside the trough to the center console. The wire will not have any floor carpet pressure or risk creating any lumps. There is enough room in these paths to run many more wires without consequence. Second thing in another comment.

[@Mixturerich]

Interesting location, did not know about it. Did you take pictures or video? Would be cool to see! Regarding a lump in the carpet, there isn't at all. With the underpadding, the wire is undetectable. However, if I knew about that trough, I would have gone that way, thanks for the comment!

[@ariip]

@@Mixturerich The trough is very easy to see. If you move the front passenger seat forward and reach under it, you can dig your hand into the floor because there are cuts there where the seat wiring comes out. If you pop the door jamb trim up on that passenger side and lift up the carpet edge, you can see where the wiring goes towards the middle of the car and down into the trough.

[@ariip]

@@Mixturerich you are welcome. You may not see a lump now, but that wire pressure on the carpet and foam over time will push upward or deform the carpet. You may also be able to feel it with bare feet or with your hand in time. You are also running it in front of the seat or over the penthouse which is not ideal otherwise. Whereas that door jamb channel and trough have lots of space without pressure and are already there and used for lots of other wiring without constriction. If it were me, since it is not a hard thing to do, I would go back and rerun the wire if I had found this out and did not know about it before.

[@mntran]

Can you close the trunk from the main display? Thanks. Love your video. 🥰

[@Mixturerich]

Yes!

[@KB-yi3by]

Great video - you have include lots of timesavers. One question on the V6. The power cable has a can-bus male connector that plugs into the adapter inter the center console; therefore where does the red 12v connector connect?

[@Mixturerich]

The can-bus connector that plugs into the center console is not combined with the power cable. I am not sure what you're stating. However, if simply you want to know where I chose to connect my power cable, it was to the +12V under the rear seat. I did not include in my video as that was a personal choice, it's not in the instructions.

[@jhogoboom]

Getting ready to do my installation and taking notes to make sure I do everything correctly. Can you provide more detail on what you did to the bumper? I'd rather not take it all the way off if I can avoid it, but I don't quite understand what you did. From the video it sounded like you didn't take any of the seven bottom bolts out. Can you confirm or provide additional information? Thanks!!

[@davidjkuchar]

Anyway to install without removing bumper or side covers?

[@Mixturerich]

Not easily. Removal of bumper is actually quite easy to tackle.

[@garretmolloy]

On other installs the power wire needs to go near the passenger panel - where do you get power from ?

[@Mixturerich]

I took mine at the 12V under the rear seat. I didn’t cover this in my video as I think this should be a choice and it is not what is in the official instructions.

[@garretmolloy]

@@Mixturerich thanks. Sounds better. My Tesla is RHD so may be more difficult to get it to passenger side. Debating doing it DIY.

[@ariip]

You might want to read my comments above. Sorry if you already installed it. As far as power I easily ran a wire from the front 12v battery following the door jamb trim which was easy. I used this for the trunk kit, trailer wiring power, and additional power outlets in the trunk.

[@garretmolloy]

Any installers in Ireland?

[@Mixturerich]

Plane ticket and I’m there! (After the pandemic haha)