Adam Savage's Lathe Build Fail

[@tested]

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[@bkailua1224]

More accurate would be a morse to endmill holder that fits your tailstock. Then mount your pen drill in the morse endmill holder. You can also mount your pen drill in a boring bar holder and zero that on center then feed either with cross slide or by hand

[@paulprobusjr.7597]

Hemingway Kits sells a kit for a small sensitive drilling attachment. Obviously it would be more expensive than the one you bought, but at least you can be sure it will be made right. You'd just have to modify to use an MT#4 instead of the MT#2 or MT#3 options.

[@painus_n_uranus7088]

Glad to see it’s not a open the video with a taped up hand type of fail

[@chiphill4856]

That would be an accident.

[@mattslunecka5995]

That wouldn’t be a lathe fail video, that would be an in memorium video.

[@RataStuey]

Amen!

[@hornet65]

he already did that once.

[@defcud]

well he does reveal that he doesn't know how to maintain his current lathe. keep a damn tool in the tailstock. otherwise you get dust, chips, overspray in the morse taper and you have a shit tailstock. good job adam!

[@russelldold4827]

Twist drills may wander or start off-centre, which leads to errors in concentricity. This is why, for an accurate and concentric hole, we spin the workpiece in the lathe spindle (your lathe spindle nose usually has an accurately ground morse taper and you use whatever morse taper adapter is needed between the spindle nose and your MT workpiece), drill slightly (about 1/16") undersize with the drill in the chuck in the tailstock and follow it up with a boring bar (not a reamer because this may follow a wandering drill hole). We add to the complication when we want a concentric internal taper, because this needs the boring bar to accurately follow the desired taper, then final finish (no more than about a thou) is done with the tapered reamer. Love your work!

[@bardicdad]

Adam, I think something that might have helped is step drilling, which would give you shoulders tapered down to your smallest dimension, then ream out the shoulders. I do so with old-school gun drills, which are O1 rods ground at the end to a D-bit for my larger dimension, grind length 1-1.5", depending on what I need. The other end of the rod I turn to my next step down OD, and grind that to a D-bit. This is a starter bit for the next size down, so the grind length is roughly 1/2". The Machinist Bedside Reader (#1, I think) has nice suggestions for OD to grind length ratios. So my order of operation is center drill, twist drill of larger OD with my d-bit, flip the rod to the other end to get my starter OD for the next step down, drill with the next size down drill rod, rinse and repeat. You'll be dead-on-balls accurate (it's an industry term), absolutely concentric, and your ream will not drift.

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

That’s pretty slick. Thanks for the tip.

[@Marioachi80]

Hey Adam! WOW! That video turned into a horror movie for me. LOL I bought the exact same sensitive drilling attachment a few months ago. I got it because I thought that it might speed up my drilling process. I am making 100s of the same part that needs a 4mm blind hole. Turning the wheel on the tailstock gets old very quickly. Long story short...that thing went back to the seller the same day. Totally unusable. The whole thing sags when you extend it. Mine was 2mm below the centre. Also, the amount of force that you need to drill is insane. Oh before I forget it: The taper that takes the chuck is a B16 taper. Maybe that´s why your chuck did not want to stay in place. What made it a horror video for me was seeing you use a reamer as a drill. Those delicate cutting edges are meant to widen a hole that is 0.1 to 0.2mm undersized. 🙂

[@d4slaimless]

Well, that thing that Adam did show first is good for sensitive drilling on the mini scale. But with big chunk of material, especially if it's stainless still, for example, you need good amount of force to drill, indeed. For plastics it is good maybe? I mean the precise mechanism, not this abomination that he wanted to use.

[@colinstu]

Yeah.. WTF was that! (reamer as drill)

[@QuestorWI]

My father would have loved watching All of the content on this channel. He was a journeyman machinist who worked for many companies. The last one before he died was Harley Davidson. On several occasions when mom was called in to her part-time job to work and there was no one to watch me dad would take me to work with him. I would be totally awed by what my father was doing. To repair some very old machines (punch presses etc) that I am sure are still in use at the factory to this day. After rendering the machine safe to work on, he would find the broken part/s which in most cases was one of the original gears and he would take what was left of that gear or part, do measurements and calculations and come up with a blueprint to create the blank and manufacture and mill a new gear. And just like what happened with Adam in today's video sometimes it didn't go quite right. I really hope that Adam will, after much thought and consideration attempt to create this part again!

[@elizabethvaux4420]

I can tell you're a little upset and being a good sport about it, thanks for showing us this! I know it's hard to keep composure in these sorts of situations w/ cameras rolling etc, but I know that I learned a lot just by watching how you had problems, and the "after-action report" you gave us talking about where some of the problems may have started really helped build my understanding. I feel like while I am not a maker by any means, I have a much better understanding of things that are important to know!

[@Krishell]

A adapter 4-2 cost 5$ and it's often hardened. And a bit shorter than the one you made. But as a exercise, it's fun. But remember, when using a reamer, you need to use a "floating" holder for it, on a manual machine. A floating holder makes everything better

[@kimbearlysue]

One of the reasons why I subscribed and joined your channel is because my insatiable hunger for knowledge. I don't care what it is, I want to learn about it. That is why I love you so much. I open KZbin everyday and search for your channel because I am going to learn something, no matter what. Please keep posting about all of crazy and wonderful things you have to share 😊.

[@georgewarner7210]

Don’t beat urself up too bad Adam. It happens to the best of us. And when it comes to all around makers, crafters, and “inventors of awesomeness made from miscellaneous things I found around the house and parts plucked from shit I previously dismantled”… -(I coined that phrase for myself upon the completion of my first random parts invention, an awesome mic stand. It looked great, but between u and me, it was the flat black spray paint that “really tied the room together.”) …you are one of the best I’ve ever seen! I’ve worked and hobbied as a machinist and a wood lathesman too so I know that some experienced machinists that are unhappy with their own life choices may have scoffed at ur attempt…but I can dig ur concept and most of what I know is based on times my plans didn’t work out! U are the epitome of jacks of all trades and I consider u a genius, an idol, and an inspiration! And also, 😮‍💨 phew…thank heavens I got to watch u make that not work in 25 minutes…than myself make it not work over the next 3 weekends! lol jk

[@kokoronotomoni]

I am pretty sure you cant use a reamer as a drill, that's where the most of the error occurred. You should drill then bore the correct angle tapered hole. And finish with the reamer. There are also roughing reamer and finishing reamers.

[@theterribleanimator1793]

the idea of a roughing reamer is quite funny to me.

[@rostringstudios4095]

Boring is way more accurate than drilling, they can wander so much than you are reaming an inaccurate hole

[@TheNefariousFox]

I was always under the impression that you didn't want to go much more than .010 for the reamer to hog out, and if you fill the flutes you are trashing your hole. And possibly your reamer.

[@thomasjones3591]

Adam, if I may be so bold, after watching as many of your vids as I have in this 4 or 5 years, I truly feel that you are one if the few. Let me expound on this. It has been my hobby to watch as many MAKER videos as Time permits. I was taken aback as to how many Makers never make errors and are able to produce perfect outcomes to their expectations. Your allowance to afford all of us to see that, in fact, making is not a precise science, rather it does seem to be a learned acceptance. What is to say "FIFO" is not the end all. Patience and pursuance make the craft attempted, in many cases, better each time. Thank you.

[@Bleats_Sinodai]

I'm glad you show both the successful and... less successful builds. Makes me less scared of failure cus at the end of the day, you still learn from either.

[@baylliebrechin2784]

I just love how personal all of his videos feel, genuinely feels like a conversation almost you know

[@TulanePass]

And the audio is trash. Bring back the camera crew.

[@rileydumouchelle681]

​@@TulanePassHell no. Much prefer how personal it feels when he controls the camera/phone.

[@nicazer]

@@TulanePassaudio being trash would mean its loudly buzzing and/or difficult to understand him. This was neither. Not professional TV grade audio, that is true, but this certainly isn't bad.

[@TulanePass]

@@nicazer so its still trash. Bring back the tested crew.

[@bentucker2301]

​@@rileydumouchelle681naa it's terrible.

[@justin_704]

Being a machinist, I was enjoying watching the fails all along the way knowing what was going to mess up along the way. When building tools for your machine, build ever part using your machine. You cannot depend on the supposed accuracy of the tool you are using without checking everything along the way. And why would you chuck up one tool in your headstock to check its run-out and use another tool in it expecting the same run-out? Same issue. Hilarious. 😅

[@kylewellman402]

Once you dialed in your chuck, the next level for concentricity would have been to use a tailstock alignment bar to dial in your tailstock as well. Ive never used a tapered reamer either, but i can only imagine using a straight drill and then the reamer would be asking your reamer to be removing too much material on the greater diameter end. I would personally dial in your chuck, dial in the tailstock to be concentric with chuck, mount your MT blank in chuck and use cross slide to bore the MT2 taper to within like ten thou of diameter, then use your reamer to finish the cut. Im not a master machinist so please someone who is correct me if this is not a good way to go about it. I have several years of experience under master tool and die makers tutelage, but i know i myself am nowhere close to that level yet. The fact we try and learn everyday is what matters most.

[@jasonhull5712]

Yes, that’s the way I was taught. I knew where the “fail” was as soon as he started on the wrong end of the lathe. He should have chucked the MT4 up in the chuck and dialed it in, then drill a pilot hole for the boring bar, cut the rough taper using the machinist manual and the compound rest or taper attachment (doesn’t he have a taper attachment for his lathe ?) and the final step would have been the “finishing reamer” or a “chucking reamer”. I just did the same operation on a tailstock quill and it is spot on. (I do have a taper attachment on my lathe though). But the machinist manual actually tells you the exact taper on all the mores tapers. If I did what he did to one of my reamers it would most likely be trashed afterwards. They are not meant to remove that much material. Nor are they intended to be ran at high RPM’s and nor are they supposed to be ran without LOT’s of oil. But nonetheless it was an entertaining video! 😊

[@kylewellman402]

@@jasonhull5712 i cant remember the exact number but i remember reamers arent supposed to really take more than, what, 10 thou? Im probably wrong, i just know its not much. I was always taught "a 64th (.015625") is really too much but will work". I dont think he would need a taper attachment necessarily, id guess his cross slide has enough travel for the length of an MT2. Its difficult, but ive cut a jewelers ring mandrel thats a 16" long 1.5° taper using my cross slide with 5" of travel. There is quite a bit of math involved to get the different sections to match up, but if you give yourself a couple thou oversize throughout the length, its not bad to use sand paper and polishing paper to take the rest out and blend everything in. The fun part about machining is there are always multiple answers to solve a problem, and getting a group to share solutions and expand on our arsenal of methods is great. One reason i am thankful the hobby machinist world has really made a come back and thanks to guys like "AvE, This Old Tony, Inheritance Machining, Joe Pyzenski (spelling, i think he goed by Joe Pie? His channel has a TON of techniques and information) Clickspring, Clough42, Dazecars, and just too many to list... blondiehacks, Xyla Foxlin, Artisan Makes, the list goes on but those are the ones i especially wanted to shout out as theyve all helped me in one way or more. Especially Inheritance Machining and Dazecars directly. Sorry to turn this into a shout out comment, but go check em all out. On the off chance Mr Savage reads this comment, there is a lot to learn from the people mentioned above. Back to the main topic here, im also surprised his reamer survived that. The only way i think it could is if he used a drill bit thats closer to the major diameter? But then he really would only have had like a half inch max of proper engangement on the tapers. So surely he used a bit for the minor diameter, but that brings back the question of how did that reamer survive? I dont know the numbers off the top of my head but surely the difference from minor to major diameters is more than 15 thou on a MT.

[@jasonhull5712]

@@kylewellman402 absolutely, .010” was was limit as far as I was taught. And yes that whole list is channels I frequently watch too ! I enjoy watching them all. When I can’t be in my shop I like to watch others in theirs, Adam is a pretty sharp guy. From what I’ve seen there isn’t anything he can’t accomplish. I really think he purchased that reamer just for this project and wasn’t too concerned about keeping it around maybe ? But KZbin is a heck of a classroom, you can learn the right way and the wrong way on there. Just takes experience to refine it and learn the difference I guess. 🤷‍♂️ Abom79’s older content is very good too. I like Adam but his new content just feels different for me. Joe Pie is a great addition to anyone looking for technical processes and expert tips. All of them you listed really. All good content in both machining as well as entertainment !

[@kylewellman402]

@@jasonhull5712 i always feel bad making lists like that because i always forget some channels! Yes Abom79 is also good. I do agree his older content was better as far as learning and watching techniques. However i am not trying to say his newer content is not good. I mean hes built his shop from a garage to a full sized industrial shop. Its insanely impressive and what i hope to accomplish for myself someday. There is also CEE. I laugh when i watch his videos because i remember ToT always referencing "its not abom size". Then you got CEE who buys a mill with a bed thats like 100 foot X-axis 😂. Its absolutely nuts. Still though i dont think its as big as the mill used at a company called "Buhler" up in Holland Michigan. They build/repair die casting machines. They have a mill where the table is the floor like 150ft x 100ft, and 25 ft of Z-axis travel. The spindle head sits on a moving platform and the operator sits in an office at the bottom and goes along for the ride. They have a lathe that holds a 25ft long 3 ft diameter steel bar to machine into tie bars. One CNC mill center with like a 200 tool turret. Lots of insane machinery. Honestly all of it is what makes me continue down the path of engineering. Designing machinery like that is a marvel to behold. And always makes me feel like my shop is tonka tools level lol. But i suppose empires arent built in a day, so they say

[@TheGreatAtario]

I've never used a lathe in my life, but I was raising an eyebrow at the pains to make the chuck concentric, but not a peep for the tailstock

[@ralphpavero7760]

I think you're supposed to rough the taper in with a boring bar first then finish with the reamer

[@TheNefariousFox]

I'm pretty sure there's maximum material removal for reamers that you have to rough cut before they are effective. So yeah, you cannot hog out that much material without boring to the correct angle, and then taking the radius up to within the spec of the reamers max cut. I feel bad for that reamer, it's probably a piece of toast now.

[@MrHarbot]

I'm glad that you show failures as well. Failing is such a big part of being creative. Without fail, there is nothing new and innovative.

[@SirWhiteRabbit-gr5so]

Failure is Learning to the adaptive mind.

[@jcollif]

Dude.....at the 4:24 mark, I thought we lost you. I actually thought you were stroking on us and my heart sank. I'm glad you came back to us 6 seconds later. Quit scaring us like that man.

[@sean.chiarot]

Joe pie has a great video on micro drilling on the lathe so you don't break tiny drill bits. Basically what you're talking about at the end.

[@hughcoleman3866]

two things. 1. You mentioned Stephan Gotteswinter at the start of your video. The first thing HE would have done would be to check all the concentricities of the components. And if HE found an error, he would have allowed for it. But I think you were correct. All the stack up of tapers led a less than acceptable error. 2. While you were reaming, I kept thinking. He hasn't checked the depth he needs to ream... has he marked it on the reamer and not told us? Turned out you had not.

[@trig]

Mount the drilling rig on your tool post, this will give you centering adjustment. Pre cut a morse taper undersize then use the morse reamer to remove the last of the material to fit.

[@marimodono5833]

I usually have no idea what you're talking about, but I love watching all of the tested videos. It's just so interesting to me and inspiring, It's not just sit and watch, but you're really giving me motivation to create. Thank you, Adam

[@esalehtismaki]

If you buy an actual Morse adaptor, it is accurate. Also, if you can pull it out, it's not seated properly. You need a wedge and hammer to separate Morse tapers. And a hole for the wedge.

[@bobhail4348]

Always love watching Adam's videos about lathes. He has been a massive inspiration to me starting my lathe journey.

[@thomasbecker9676]

I would suggest *not* learning machining from this channel. You're better off watching Keith Rucker, Abom79, Inheritance Machining, and Clickspring.

[@wizrom3046]

2 problems with your method; 1. Any angular or positional error of the tailstock causes an equal angular or positional error in the finished adaptor. 2. Cutting a tapered bore in solid steel with a reamer is very stressful and heat producing, likely to cause damage and issues. It would have been better to turn the blank, and use the compound slide at a precise angle with a boring bar.

[@PatrickHoodDaniel]

My newbie question would be if the tail stock was straight and having concentricity with respect to the head stock before the initial machining of the taper. I'm sure you "dialed" that in way back. Nice coolant setup. An who needs a gym when you are a machinist. As the great philosopher Farmer Fran says, "We live to play another day!". (Waterboy)

[@MarkH0865]

You can buy taper sleeves adapters for lathes with different Morse tapers outside to inside to accommodate different tapers

[@rayz5508]

A morse taper MUST be extremely precise to function correctly! Precision and experimentation are not a friendly match.

[@timhart1748]

NO and I repeat No touchy moving cutter Adam. My heart stopped a beat.

[@malcolmpeake8893]

Adam, try again with a quality 2 to 4 morse taper adapter, you could have got errors in you taper by hand reaming in the vice.

[@atkelar]

The way I learned it, reamers are only meant to buff up surfaces pretty much. So it should be only 0.0odd mm undersize to start the reamer, at most 0.1mm in the diameter. Non-cylindrical ones are also tricky to get right in the depth and require constant double and triple checking

[@1buellrider]

Dude, you're killin me with the watch and wedding ring

[@waylandwhitney8462]

And a blow gun 😢

[@chrimony]

@4:21: Adam goes offline to run a subroutine.

[@allanmoore4794]

Yep, at 25:40 the idea to use the Jacobs 0 on the little sliding post is the solution. You can just use a normal chuck in the tail stock to hold the smaller sliding post of the "0" chuck.

[@MrMJJFAN1]

I'm surprised Snapple have never offered to be a sponsor for one of the videos, he always has one in his videos, plus the epic music during the threading was great, really made me anxious. full credit to the editor haha

[@madeofstone7619]

Thank you Adam for sharing this type of video. For me, as a small KZbin channel, it is very important to see that I am not the only one who makes mistakes or does not get the desired result. As we remember: failure is always an option.)))) An important lesson that I learned from all your videos is that a mistake is not always bad, sometimes you can learn much more by making a mistake. Thanks again

[@tedarndts3260]

Put an indicator in the lathe chuck to check the concentricity to your drill chuck. Also you should be able to adjust the tail stock to help fix your concentricity error.

[@F3A5T]

The only maker comfortable enough to have us watch him fail for 30 mins straight

[@OzymandiasSSS]

I love how at 6:16 it looks like Adam's got a friendly bee pet.

[@treborsf]

I didn't recognize that it was a fly at first, had to go back to investigate the seeminly sentient little bolt that was trying to escape the workbench. 😀

[@shubinternet]

Came here to mention the fly, was not disappointed. However, I also thought it was a piece of machinery moving around at first.

[@SimonHollandfilms]

how about a camera on the lathe...rear or other side mag mount?

[@SonOfMrGreengenes]

I would check the home made adapter for concentricity. Reaming by hand can wander.

[@elanman608]

Adam Gets Burned. Although people do cut morse tapers with reamers you should really bore out the taper with a boring bar, MT reamers are mostly for repairing damaged tapers. PS Tom Lipton did a series on building a sensitive drilling attachment a few years ago, about the same time he was building the intaglio press.

[@ikegraul_]

I think this may be the most relatable of your videos that I've ever watched. Thanks for posting it.

[@adhawk5632]

Robin Renzetti and Stefan Gotteswinter absolutely know what there talking about. DRO depth and DRO Cross slide and center height adjustment with the QCTP and nice carriage gears that are fast. Finish the tool post drill. Look at a solid tool post with the compound slide at the back. I'm doing a toolpost drill right now, busted 2 spiral taps and 2 carbide endmills getting them out just today. Its 1-10mm B12 keyless chuck mounted to the back of a square ER32 collet block, with a 20mm square solid steel bar bolted to the side. It'll go straight in my 40 position multifix size A. Flip it over for collets or drills. It's for a small optimum 200x300 lathe. I've got a chunk of steel to do the compound delete with, its next. We must be watching the same vids on KZbin. 👍👌🇦🇺

[@rupunzel6299]

Compound delete is a really awful idea that gains zilch. Without the compound on the lathe making tapers becomes impossible unless there is a taper attachment on the lathe. The compound is extremely useful for making tapers, making fine adjustments, cutting offset multi-lead threads and much more. The belief-idea the lathe will gain some degree of rigidity at the tool post/holder by deleting the compound only illustrated a defect in the design/construction of the lathe. It is also possible the gibs and dove tails on the compound is completely outa whack causing the lack of rigidity and all those related problems. In this specific example of Adam trying to make a morse taper, it should have been roughed out by using the compound to cut the taper to within a few thousands of the finished size before applying the MT reamer.. as reamers are designed to finish cut by removing tiny amounts of material. Or, if the compound is properly set, the exact morse taper can be easily made using the lathe compound and properly set up boring bar. The whole compound delete thing is extremely short sighted and might work for those with limited demands on their lathe. In the much grander scheme of using a lathe no compound is a very serious handicap in too many ways. As for drilling via the carriage, easy. make a tool holder to fit the tool post that has adjustable height, add a drill chuck on an arbor or ER collet holder. Use a center finder or Blake indicator or similar to set up height and end to end using the compound.. ready to drill

[@adhawk5632]

It's a 2 minute swap back to the compound. If you need it. It's a hobby for me. My compound sits locked up. I would enjoy some extra rigidity. Even my lathe has a DRO, it's all cheap now, thanks China👍for every tool I own. I'll do what works for me, I'm sure Adam will too. He's a hobby guy, but famous, and more money behind him. Well done Adam👍👌🇦🇺

[@UncleKennysPlace]

I must have said "Yikes!" half a dozen times watching this video! 😁

[@BobLoudist]

Bruh spitting bars off the rip When's the ep coming adam too savage

[@williamhamill813]

You should cut the inside taper with a boring tool before reaming. The ream is just for the final few thou. Are you sure your tailstock is in line too?

[@LogicIndustries]

Just buy yourself an ER40 collet chuck with an MT4 shank and hold the little sensitive drill chuck with the red ring in a collet in that. You can then also hold many other things in that chuck, since it has a larger capacity than most drill chucks, and will hold much more solidly than even the best ball bearing chuck.

[@frankdstrack]

I love that you show your failures. I feel like learning (as a maker, or anything else) is a pathway of failures building up to success. Too many times people try to make things look easy and flawless. Experience is just having learned from your mistakes, so when you have a lot of experience, really you have just made lots of mistakes. 👍

[@deemstyle]

Do you have a video on that "shelf" that sits on top of your tailstock and holds your Jacobs chuck? I did a search but couldn't locate anything. The shelf is clearly seen at 19:40 in this video

[@davidkomai]

Nothing more relatable than watching Adam try to find the right hex wrench to fit.

[@nemo4907]

I love the cameo 6:17-6:19 walking across the bench!🤘

[@DS-ic5ps]

Thank you for being so vulnerable and willing to share!

[@lotuselanplus2s]

Our methodology is so very different on this one, I have built a tapered adaptor for the spindle on my drill press , made it on my old 1958 Logan lathe . Essentially i figured out the tapers that i needed in degrees and basically turned a tapered tube to fit the drill press spindle to the taper on the new chuck, using my compound slide, wish i had had the correct reamer, i'd have brought the tapered bore to with in a few thou of the finished size and just reamed it for the perfect fit, your way seemed fraught with problems and 4 letter words.

[@ClownWhisper]

never release the tail stock clamping lever while a tool like this reimer is being used is engaged with the work it can move considerable amount in an upward direction from being released

[@anthonyrich1592]

Hmm, can't say I'm a massive fan of the amount of stick out on the MT4-MT2 adapter setup. Have you considered scaling up the watchmaker's version to fit your lathe, i.e.: a mechanism that's integrated with its own custom tailstock (and clamp) with the sensitive mechanicals on the far side of the tailstock and the arbor for the drill chuck on the near side. I expect there's a keyway slot cut along the length of the shaft going through the tailstock, too, to stop it rotating.

[@PullTab]

You can make an adapter for your full size lathe that connects your tail stock to your carriage to enable power drilling and DRO functionality.

[@pgreenawalt]

4:25 - AdamSavage.exe has stopped working.

[@jeffreyhallam5517]

It helps if you do a series of drills with increasing sizes. That stepped approach limits cuts down on the material that the taper reamer has to remove. It makes the process easier. Just be careful to assure the drills don’t go too far. Stay wishing the taper confines.

[@CameronMcCreary]

I put a servo mechanism on the tailstock of the lathe. They should all have servos attached to modern manual lathes.

[@terribleart6269]

I find it odd when someone like Adam Savage refers to the work they're doing as "spinning their wheels". The work they're doing, even if it is a bit without a total purpose, is still able to get the thought process going and inspire new ideas. With that, I'm surprised Adam didn't look at that design and simply make it or even make it better! All the tapers just felt like it was set to be an issue. With his milling machine skill, I'm surprised he buys lathe tapers or tools at all. I guess time to create is the one thing Adam doesn't have in excess. Nonetheless, I always appreciate the time he takes to teach us all and just allow us to peek in on his builds!

[@ebayollis]

Watching you do "machine work" is like watching a bus load of kids play in the mud right after you just washed their clothes

[@TMoney1341]

Hey Adam, something to help you. Drill initially then use a boring head to create a perfectly concentric hole and the concentricity of the chuck won't matter as its a single point cutting and chamfer the hole slightly for an easy start of the reamer. Then use a center in the lathe faceplate and use a lathe dog to drive your reamer and slowly feed with the tailstock. Slow your rpm into the 45-100 rpm range too as you dont want to run reamers near what you do drills.

[@OmeMachining]

I have a tailstock like that for my Schaublin lathe, and yes, it's great. But, have you seen the Japanese show, here on KZbin, where he drills a hole through a lead from a pencil? And yes, with a regular sized, normal tailstock 🤣 Of course on a Cazeneuve lathe. But... This isn't really needed to get the super nice feeling to the smaller sizes., but it sure helps. Also, I have a Albrecht chuck (#1 chuck) which is operated with the fingers, on a springloaded guide. Super convenient for small holes. This!! Add the great feeling/touch you need for the smaller holes 😁👍 Best regards

[@AmusementLabs]

Adam, lathe, and fail in the same sentence are usually not a positive thing, but happy it is this time. 🙃

[@Bad_Wolf_Media]

Adam, at the resolution of this video, is very much like me playing chess: Disappointed with the loss, but learning what to do next time. I fully expect a near-future video is going to be Adam building one of these rigs from scratch so it's exactly what he wants.

[@gingerbowman5399]

Love to know where you got the lever tailstock from??

[@JLTSoft]

I have learned something today about myself. Apparently I really will watch anything. LOL. The milling was surprisingly riveting.

[@idontwantcorporateretaliat6301]

check your taper runout. I've used morse sleeves w/good results but always check the runout

[@malland2029]

A spiral reamer would have been more effective. Also reamers only good for final cut...

[@ImAfraidBruce]

You might be able to try clocking the different tapers around and see if you can get your tolerance stack up to stack more in your favor.

[@xarvous]

"Build a Thing that doesn't quite work" is a demerit badge that I totally qualify for

[@MetaHead]

Even though it didn’t work out I still love those types of videos where you modify tools

[@davidboling5361]

I love your shop! It matches the level of the engineer. Thanks for inviting me into your shop.

[@2barrell]

A sine bar to set up your compound slide would have gotten you close, THEN the reamer used to fine finish the adapter would have been the way to go.

[@PatriciaMaroney]

Listening to you kind of talk through problem solving the issues you are having as you go is always interesting, regardless of the outcome.

[@SnowmansApartment]

the title made me anticipate a fail so i was anxiously waiting for Adam to forget to switch out the drill bit at about 11:18..😅

[@ADBBuild]

Multiple sources of error here: 1. If your tailstock isn't perfectly aligned, the taper will be off center, meaning every time you put it in the tailstock, it will be rotated off center differently from when you reamed it. 2. The tapers on the sensitive drilling device (SDD) may not be concentric. 3. The drill chuck on the SDD may not run true. 4. The drilled hole in the adapter might not have drilled straight, meaning the reaming would not be straight. Single point cutting would be the ideal setup for this. Also, the drilled hole should be step drilled to lighten the load on the reamer. A roughing reamer and then a finishing reamer is also generally used, but you can use a finishing reamer only, it's just a lot more work. To find the source of error, start by checking the alignment of your tailstock using a test cut bar. There are several videos on this all over KZbin. Once you know that is concentric and in line, place an indicator in the chuck of the lathe and the adapter in the tailstock and indicate the taper of the adapter, preferably at 2 depths. If there is more runout at the second depth than the first (or visa versa), the taper is not inline. If little runout is found, add the SDD and do the same for its taper and so on, adding pieces and measuring. There is very likely some amount of error at every connection, but this will at least tell you where the main source of error is.

[@miss_lisa]

Adam, don't give up. You are 98% of the way there. The error probably came from the manual operation you were doing with the reamer. Chuck that reamer back up in the lathe, re-zero it and shave a couple of thousands off and it should be able to center the taper.

[@Michblack0000]

I love the 45 second shot of your shoulder while you're dialing in the concentricity of your lathe :D

[@MrAcuta73]

I was a little surprised to see you chuck a reamer in the lathe, thought I was about to learn something. Turns out what I was taught was correct. 😂

[@AnonymousAnarchist2]

Not only can you, but they are called machine reamers because you should.... Especially with tapered reamers. Just with a far more careful set up then Mr Savage used, and use lard for the lubricant, and an fairly slow SFPM. a rule of thumb is; if it takes less then half an hour to get that sucker concentric and in line with the axis of rotation on a lathes headstock then youve missed something; because I havent met an old timer skilled enough to do it faster! and usually we just throw soft jaws in the lathe chuck and bore them out, perfectly in line everytime, but that take half an hour. 28 minuites to find the soft jaws you want to cut up and two to cut them! Adam definitly screwed up his axis by doing it by hand, no guide and by hand youll never get a straight cut.

[@MrAcuta73]

@@AnonymousAnarchist2 Interesting, I am absolutely no machinist, just an idiot with some modicum of ability. I was taught by my Grandfather who was a machinist to always hand cut tapered reamers. I still have his full set of them. Rarely used, but amazing tools.

[@clockwood12000]

One day builds and shop stuff is the only content I watch on Tested, but I really wish Adam would up his videography game. 50% of the time we are too far away to see what he's actually doing, and 30% of the time we are looking at his back.

[@RobTheSquire]

I've thought about gettng a jewellers lathe so I can make my own custom parts for my growing model collection. And now this video has got me looking into getting one again and for the cost they start and a basic set it's very tempting.

[@robertogrady1321]

Nice try. It would be nice to know which part was not concentric if not all of them. I notice a common theme lately on KZbin where any failure is attributed to the "cheap import tools" that were purchased! It seems to be a standard excuse to cover all failures.

[@tb7077]

Well, it may have been a fail/ learning experience but it was one of the funnier sight gage episodes. You reaming it out was hilARIous .

[@josephalexander3884]

You DID NOT spin your wheels. You confirmed what you knew to be true, tried something, and were not able to achieve your desired objective. You learned. Plus you thought your audience something it may not have known; as is the case for me. Thank you.

[@Clayton117]

Producer: I think we need more drama. Editor: Say no more. Love it! I was laughing so hard when the music started.

[@johnnyb95678]

Thanks for sharing the good, the bad, the ugly of developing ideas and turning them, or not, into reality. Greatly appreciated!

[@zrebbesh]

Today's lesson: you always have to both check both alignment of the (workpiece or bit) mounted in the chuck and alignment of the (bit or workpiece) mounted in the tailstock. Adam did the first but not the second. Don't feel bad; this particular mistake is something everybody does one of the first few times they mount the bit in the chuck, because they're not used to really needing to do it. Misalignment of the chuck can always cause wrong-size or wrong-shape holes and possible bit breakage, but while misalignment of the tailpiece causes more of exactly the same symptom when the bit is mounted in the tailpiece, it causes holes off-center holes in the workpiece when the bit is mounted in the chuck. The reason bits normally go in the tailpiece in most shops is that wrong-size or wrong-shape holes can usually be solved by drilling slightly tight tolerances and then hand reaming. But off-center holes can't.

[@Firebird1005]

Single point turning with a boring bar set at the right angle. Then ream the last 0.1 mm max.

[@rupunzel6299]

There is an "issue" notice Adam's lathe has no compound or taper attachment.... or no ability to single point a taper..

[@Firebird1005]

There is such an attachments present. Using a reader to drillen is misuse of a reamer. He took it of for greatest rigidity but you really don't need to.

[@rupunzel6299]

@@Firebird1005 "Greatest" rigidity holding a reamer is simply wrong and not correct. There are very real reasons why floating reamer holders are made. Watch this video by REGO-FIX (they invented the ER collet system) on floating reamer holders. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6vaqpqLg61meMk Alternative is to apply-use the reamer by hand. Choice is to learn from this disaster or continue to repeat this disaster with no ending.

[@rupunzel6299]

If there is a need to put that "sensitive" small drill chuck in the lathe, get a MT4 to ER collet holder. Problem solved. If there is a need to put the drill exact on center, get a MT or clamping bar holder for the multi-fix tool post. This allows drilling from the carriage and setting up the drill on carriage direct on center by a number of methods from using test indicator to center finder to Blake indicator.. Morse Tapers can be made on a lathe by using setting the compound precisely between lathe centers with a test indicator and turning the internal or external diameters to precisely the specified dimensions (tiny factions of a degree as morse tapers hold by van der waals force.. and the overall diameter must be within 0.001" tolerances). If the morse taper is reamed, make the initial roughing taper on the lathe before applying the reamer and the same tolerances for the required dimensions apply. As exampled in this Swamp Lamp video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJrOepSrrZiVjdE Or Curtis at CEE.. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaTamn2ojs14mLs Materials are a side note to machinist skill and understanding of how to make these parts. Cast iron, steel, aluminum, brass, plastic or what ever else material, part of machinist skills is understanding how materials respond to being worked in a machine tool and how best to work them with the specific tools required. BTW, ditch the 6 jaw chuck as they do not work well on solid round parts due to the harsh reality of no round bar is absolutely round and no 6 jaw chuck will make contact with all 6 jaws on a "round" part. 6 jaw chucks (why 6 jaw chucks are prone to chatter) work best on tubing where the tubing has compressibility allowing the tube to conform to the force applied by the 6 jaw chuck. 6 jaw chucks are fragile, one Oooops incident can easily bend the chuck body causing the 6 jaw chuck to be forever outa whack. And no, 6 jaw chucks do not work at all like a collet.. Best precision and holding power is with a properly set up 4 jaw chuck.

[@yobgodababua1862]

In science, a properly documented failure is often more useful than a success.

[@jamesalbrecht395]

Adam, being you have the tailstock taper adapter to play with, you might want to try machining in 4 set screws (90 degrees apart) to allow you to tweak the runout. This might be a quick workaround

[@michael195b]

I was waiting for it to get launched across the workshop at the end.

[@blacksupra10]

mount all that on the toolpost and you can dial it in, maybe :)

[@zeroxception]

failure is always an option I spent yesterday adding window restrictors to my UPVC triple glazed windows... Sure enough one was out of spec and locked solid on the first use of the newly instaleld restrictor. Had to drill a hole to see what was wrong and now i have a window frame with a hole in it, but now opens......luckily its the inner and not the outer frame.

[@TheEvilDead44]

Could you add set screws to adjust center for each of the sleeves that would allow you to change your centering like the big one on your lathe?

[@Sour_Ink]

What is the oil stuff Adam sprays on? Also what does it do? If im cutting mettle with a hand saw would this help the "burn" effect it creates?

[@onebradh]

Adam, why dont you come up with a rig with a handle on the rear of your tail stock so you can move it in/out with your hand but its locked to prevent moving backwards?