Testing a “150 Watt” CFL from China (and how to deal with fraudulent vendors)

[@T3sl4]

It's worse than that! Assuming your meter is correctly reading RMS current (others below have mentioned how this reading can vary -- cheap meters are prone to this error), you're calculating the Apparent Power. Due to how AC power works, the real power (the part that does work, making heat and light) is some fraction less than this. The fraction is called the Power Factor. Typically, a CFL or LED bulb, or laptop or computer supply, will have PF around 0.6 (unless it's a high quality model with Power Factor Correction, in which case it should be >0.98). The figure of 45W from the other seller, is exactly spot on what I would expect from your measurement, and also the apparent light output. (Even with camera auto-exposure, I guessed, from the moment you switched on the bulb, that that thing is nowhere near a true 150W!)

[@Stransh]

hey, I was waiting for C++ hack of this bulb!

[@AlexVasiluta]

Stransh "Hacking a non-150W light bulb using Arduino in C++" ;)

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

Overloading would have been dangerous this time. 😀

[@urfavoritehumanbean879]

1:20 This new ElectroBOOM episode is different than usual

[@sonmai3526]

LOL 😂

[@gblargg]

I'm surprised he doesn't have one of those Kill-A-Watt meters. Those things are essential for anyone interested in power draw of things in various modes.

[@DWLooney1]

Always love listening to your voice, it's so pleasant

[@Minastir1]

They'll just put a big resistor in series so you get the correct power usage

[@Bisqwit]

Yeah, I think chances are some of them do that.

[@Gytax0]

Why? A resistor would draw some of the voltage and the lamp would not have 220V going through it.

[@billieguitar]

OMLETDUFROMAGE in series, dude, in series. then the TOTAL resistance gets lower, voltage remains 220, coz physics. Go google resistors in series c:

[@Bisqwit]

You’ve got it the wrong way around, billieguitar.

[@billieguitar]

Well fak. So I was thinking in parallel. @Minastir1 baited meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[@SaarN1337]

I bet they don’t expect people to hack a multimeter to a device that’s connected to 220v outlet, so a refund here and there is probably tolerable. Love the old school calculator. My family and classmates would probably kill me if I ever use one of these.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

And next time, probably get more familiar with the size of these bulbs. If something says high power but looks too small, it probably isn't real.

[@cali-co6428]

wow! congrats on the new studio! it looked great!

[@Bisqwit]

Yeah, it’s on my TODO list. It is so much work to hang the backdrop up that when I took it out from the shipping package and hung it on the wall to see how it looks, I just left it there.

[@superhands290]

That ending. I think a part of you died inside there. I've asked my Finnish friend to translate it lol.

[@superhands290]

update: my finnish friend says "Again an airplane!". the mystery is resolved

[@3iikka]

I recently had experience of a chinese 13 euro USB microscope from ebay that claimed it had 1600x magnification, but the magnification was worse than an older Veho microscope that has 400x. That being said, the magnification number in microscopes seems to have a lot of uncertainty about how it's defined, so the numbers can be used to mislead customers like me who didn't know much about microscopy. I mean, if I connect this USB microscope to a 100" TV, then maybe it technically has 1600x, but the detail doesn't improve, so it's so-called empty magnification. The problem with false or misleading product information is also that it can lead to more sales (or well, maybe not a problem for the seller, but a problem for some of the consumers), because customers often buy the one that makes the biggest claims, and this way other sellers also start giving false or misleading information. The USB microscope I bought had pretty much all positive reviews, because quite many who buys them aren't so well informed about microscopy. Just like your lightbulb, the microscope is certainly good for it's price, but it's not what would be expected of 1600x by someone who knows about microscopy.

[@themcc1879]

Good advice. So many stores online sell whatever and it is important more than ever to triple check whatever you intend to buy.

[@somecoder3054]

[Airplane Intensifies]

[@thePontus911]

Thumbs up for the dope calculator

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

Check out AkBKukU's dope calculators. kzbin.infosearch?query=calculator

[@dustydog1039]

Love watching your videos to relax and unwind, you have such a soothing voice! Love from Australia!

[@zariumsheridan3488]

That's Chinese watts, not metric m8)) Always divide by 5 )))

[@tkd128]

The wattage is really confusing with energy efficient light bulbs like CFL, LED etc. because a lot of people still associate wattage with the brightness, but if a lightbulbs that are more efficient you will get more light with less amount of power. A honest company will provide the real amount of power used and possibly the power consumption of equivalent incandescent light bulb, to help picking the right one. Normally they would also provide the number of lumen which we should use instead to determine how bright the light bulb actually is and hopefully the color in kelvin of the light (whether the light is more blue or red, or even draw a spectrum). Yes, things got much more complex once we upgraded from incandescent light bulbs.

[@shoof_5839]

I didn't know you were into electronics as well, you have more similar hobies with me than i thought, keep up the good work, love your vids.

[@Embedonix]

OMG Bisqwit...that was the most unprofessional way of measuring live wires...glad you survived it! by the way...that calculator was an overkill :)

[@Bisqwit]

Professional or not; it takes education to know what you can do and what you cannot do safely. I used whatever tools I had at my disposal.

[@KotBlini]

They have a different morality in china. If you get scammed or cheated ITS YOUR FAULT.

[@pennyandrews3292]

Isn't that just good old-fashioned "Caveat Emptor"? I mean, this 150W light bulb isn't coming from an honest vendor that's well-known, just some fly-by-night company. I mean, everyone knows you have to be especially careful when buying from China.

[@Bisqwit]

It is the seller's responsibility to make sure that whatever they claim of the product they sell is true. False advertising is a thing.

[@pavelbaidurov228]

What i got from your videos.... life is not infinite, we all die tomorow or 50 years later, you are very very talented person and still pretty young and people like you should work in university, you can help humanity to go forward by your skill. Counting someone else's life is even worse than counting other people's money, but I just see how the giant potential is not utilized...

[@VonZippenstein]

Godspeed Bisqwit. I could listen to you rant about light bulbs for hours.

[@benjaminbrady2385]

Not quite what I would’ve expected but I’ll enjoy any Bisqwit content

[@voxbine4005]

Is just in the first screenshot If you look up at the first image where it is blue, the name of the crhome appears pixelated, it is in the highest part of the video.Up the web tabs

[@Bisqwit]

Still no idea what you are talking about. Maybe adding timestamps would help in indicating what you mean? EDIT: Oh, the _title bar._ That was not actually intentional. It was my integrated GPU in the laptop glitching.

[@pivkaaa]

I love the fact that the calculator displays the answer only after it prints it:)

[@Bisqwit]

I guess the printer takes too much power to keep the display up at the same time…

[@pivkaaa]

@@Bisqwit I suspect the display could be run using a lemon:) but its a really cool piece of hardware, maybe worth a vid alone :)

[@GeorgWilde]

for AC, its P = Urms*Irms*cos(phase between voltage and current). These bulbs don't have purely resistive character, so the cos(phase) is not 1.

[@Bisqwit]

U*I is actually fine, it just gives the apparent power, not the working power. You just have to know the power factor (that cosine), which I sort of had forgotten when I made this video.

[@ihaveneverwantedto]

When CFL and LED became available in the US they were advised in the equivalent incandescent light bulb wattage. A 15-20 watt CFL had a big "75 watt" on its package because it had as many lumens as a 75 watt incandescent. People knew what a 45 vs 75 vs 120 watt bulb should look like, so this system was easy. Of course on the package it would say they true wattage somewhere, but few people knew that or what a watt even is! I wonder if the Chinese (who were making almost all these bulbs in the first place, and their packaging) also used the same system.

[@Bisqwit]

They did provide “equals incandescent lamps” measure on the carton. In any case the numbers were bogus.

[@ihaveneverwantedto]

Bisqwit they listed just lumens in small print or on the back. sometimes there was an equivalency chart. They never said incandescent = x lumen/watt, cfl= y lumen / watt. This bulb is y=20, solve for x. I agree it’s not a good system. Giving equal space to lumens, watts, and color temp would be ideal. We always have the choice to read the entire package, with the understanding that the numbers are exaggerated to make the product more appealing. Thanks for replying to my comment. I have really enjoyed your channel.

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

4:06 - That was adorable; the seller is calling out their country-mates' fraud. It reminds me of Indian scammers trying to block other Indian scammers from robbing a victim, only better because this Chinese seller is (or at least seems to be) actually honest.

[@gerbilburp1]

Really enjoyed the video. Hope you do more experiments with common household items!

[@RiasatSalminSami]

That calculator is lit af 🔥

[@avalonjustin]

I noticed the jumpcut from 0:02 to 0:03. What's that about?

[@Bisqwit]

Combining the best parts of two takes.

[@avalonjustin]

@@Bisqwit Very wise. Thank you for the reply!

[@Mautar55]

Well, about having the same manufacturer, remember that a NULL quality checking means a lower fabrication price.

[@Marlwolf78]

Informative video, thanks bisqwit!

[@TopiasSalakka]

I usually just go with whatever has the highest ratings, good experiences so far. Most expensive thing i've ordered is an HID kit for my car, didn't measure the power it uses but the car didn't seem to mind, so probably less than stock halogens anyway.

[@kaitimoskainen]

I bought led bulbs from China. As I measured their power is about promised level 7 and 9 watts. Problem was: The chinese light bulbs do not lit in the winter time due the cold (-15 to -40 C) or due the moisture. Inside my home they do well (temp. +10 to +30 C)

[@Bisqwit]

In cold temperatures like that you usually need appliances specifically marked for outdoor use. The lack of warning “not for outdoors use” is not a promise that it will be safe to use outdoors, especially with Chinese wares.

[@srjskam]

I order a lot of trinkets from China, and it's always enjoyable (well, a bittersweet enjoyment) to complain about whatever is wrong with the item. Platforms like eBay play by western rules, so you can use this to your advantage and get free stuff, or at least hurt the dishonest sellers. Like if you need a ~decent multitool, order a "Dremel", claim a refund with links to actual Dremel tools, remind them about eBay rules about counterfeits. Just be stern every step. The worst that can happen is that eBay requires you to prove you've destroyed the item. Or that the customs catches it, which hasn't happened to me, at least. I used to buy lots of 64 GB thumb drives, and they always were ~16 GB which would have been enough for me, especially considering the price ($0). Unfortunately it turned out that the 16 GB were low enough quality to fail after a while, so I stopped ordering them. One even had a virus in it.

[@Bisqwit]

I hear you. But the reason why I am not doing that more is because I think marketplaces like eBay and AliExpress check your history, and if it turns out you are in the habit of disputing every single order, they might not be so eager to judge things in your favor in case the seller disagrees, as they sometimes do. But in the case of this particular lamp, the seller agreed to refund my order after watching this video. I did not seriously expect to receive a 150W lamp, I fully expected this to be nearly identical to the 45W that I ordered earlier, but I didn’t want to say that aloud in the video.

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

> I used to buy lots of 64 GB thumb drives, and they were ~16 GB…it turned out that [they] fail after a while Exactly. You _could_ buy memory-cards or flash-drives and unhack them to their true sizes, but they're still unreliable (usually defects from the trash), so it's not even worth that. Same for fake rechargeable batteries. 😒

[@sharow1000]

I think they meant to 150 Watt **equivalent**, relative to incandescent lamp. luminaires should be evaluated by Lumen or Lumen /Watt, not Heat load equivalent Watt. 150 Watt equivalent fluorescent lump may be around 2600lm.

[@Bisqwit]

This theory was addressed at 2:33 in the video. And it does not change the fact that it’s false advertising.

[@multicoloredwiz]

for a second there, i thought we may have gotten our first recorded bisqwit perkele......

[@voxbine4005]

Why the first screenshot of the web page is censured(pixelated) in the top, and the second screenshot is not censured ?

[@Bisqwit]

Screenshot at 0:43 - not censored Screenshot at 2:16 - not censored Screenshot at 4:06 - not censored I have no idea what you are talking about.

[@billieguitar]

LMAO that blooper xd also cool beard, really. And not to be to ****, but it's alternating, not alternative : P

[@Bisqwit]

Yeah I caught that mistake only when I was already uploading this.

[@romanbubnov5790]

Good video, Bisqwit!

[@tomatoegg7253]

Not only in China, I think most online sellers do this all over the world. If you go to Amazon, you will find all sorts of misleading titles with cheap prices. I think if you want real quality stuff, you should always buy from familiar brands or at least buy from the ones that others have already verified for you.

[@benjaminbrady2385]

Hey Bisqwit, unrelated question but I’m wondering if you’ve ever programmed any music trackers before?

[@Bisqwit]

What’s up with everyone thumbs-upping their own comments lately. Anyway I have done plenty of programming that deals with tracker-produced audio files: generating them, playing them, converting them, and so on. But very rarely have I done UI stuff. I have once started a work-in-progress tracker for Linux, that generates MIDIs. It looks like this: i.imgur.com/RvZ1kOa.png but it is nowhere near usable yet, and I have last worked on it over 16 years ago, aside from small compilation fixes.

[@docwhogr]

the question is: why you bought a cfl lamp in the age of leds? you need the maximum lumens at the lower watts and the best CRI for what you do.

[@Bisqwit]

Because I could not find LED lamps with an E27 socket that are this bright. Additionally, most “cold” LED lamps that I have purchased have a really bad CRI.

[@wizardOfRobots]

Don't you have to account for power factor based on whether it is a capacitative or a inductive load? I'm not sure about the formula for that though.

[@Bisqwit]

Yes, but it would only decrease the power reading further.

[@Tinfoilpain]

Hey there, could it be they were advertising as an Incandescent bulb replacement Wattage? IE: This bulb produces the same light as a 150W Incandescent bulb.

[@Bisqwit]

This was addressed at 2:33 in the video.

[@DJTechnoboom]

can i use a multi meter to check watts? i have one they use for cars

[@Bisqwit]

Well I used a multimeter here, but I actually recommend the HOPI power meter. It tells you not only the voltage and current draw (from which you can calculate the apparent power usage), but also the power factor (PF) and the active power usage (which is the apparent power usage times PF). I failed to address this topic in this video. For these lamps, the PF is around 0.6 or 0.7 if I recall correctly, and the active power usage is therefore even 30% smaller than what I calculated from the measurements; not 74 W but about 44 or 50 W. (And even still if we multiply that number by five for their "conversion to incandescent lamps" thing, it still does not match the 150 W label.)

[@dreamvisionary]

Seems to be quite common with LED light panels too.

[@Kukkakukko]

Has this turned around yet? Do they write lower power ratings on their products like they used to write higher? Just wondering :D

[@robokishan]

what is import duty in Finland for electronics ??

[@Bisqwit]

Import for personal use is free of both taxes and import duty for purchases under 22€ (this is changing to 0€ soon though). For purchases over 22€, you have to pay the VAT (which is, roughly speaking, 10% for books, 14% for foodstuff and 24% for anything else). For purchases over 150€, you also have to pay the customs fee, which is extremely complicated and depends on the type of product, of which there are thousands of categories. For LED lamps that are neither LED strips nor for use in cars, it is 3.7%. Purchases from inside the EU already have the VAT in the purchase price, but they are duty-free, except for alcohol and tobacco products for which there are both import limitations and extra taxes.

[@朱志伟-z8x]

yes i.have saw your video in bilibili i am waitting for the next vedio .支持你一波。

[@HunMadav]

Doesn't Finland have 230V?

[@HunMadav]

Okey read description now :D

[@GodofWar1515]

I enjoyed this video. It really educated me in the field of online shopping. Bisqwit I have a video request. I'd like to know more about memory and how this can be used in programming. It would be great if you did this in Qbasic.

[@Bisqwit]

Thank you. I will think of it. However, the facilities of QBasic to deal with this topic are extremely limited.

[@GodofWar1515]

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[@mrjazzycharon2]

The mains voltage in Finnland is 230V. Very dangerous way of measuring. Better use a plug power meter.

[@Bisqwit]

It’s no less dangerous in countries that use 110V. Also it’s the current that kills you, not the voltage. But, I used what I had at hand. I did not have a power meter.

[@mrjazzycharon2]

I’m sorry, these were meant to be two separate points. I mentioned 230V, because you used 220V in your calculation. Not a big difference, but I think it’s interesting how many different voltages are used around the globe.

[@Bisqwit]

Right. The voltage difference was addressed in the video description.

[@mrjazzycharon2]

Wow, indeed a very detailed description.

[@朱志伟-z8x]

yes bisqwit ,i wonder that what editor are you using in your video actually?, its vim or others?

[@qinyinyiqiao]

joe( Joe's Own Editor)

[@RichardEricCollins]

Send it to bigclivedotcom :)

[@Bisqwit]

I admit being a little bit inspired by his channel. In fact, I have more than once purchased an item that he tested and found to be neither dangerous nor bad.

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

But dangerous items are the best kind, they're the ones that get DiodeGoneWild to say "it's dangeroose".

[@Jomtek]

Shalom ! When will the How to Make A Compiler part 5 video be released ? love your vids

[@Bisqwit]

Shalom. It will be released when it's ready. Progress has been slow in this heat wave. Thanks for your patience.

[@pcrolandhu]

It's not 220V, it's been standardised for 230V for a very long time for all countrys that used anything from 220 to 240.

[@Bisqwit]

Found one who did not read the video description. Thanks for the input nonetheless.

[@andromeda4641]

Same thing with Chinese scammers selling fake GPU's on Ebay (much worse on Ali Express)

[@titannick]

Unfortunately, lamp vendors decided that the light intensity should be specified in watts compared to a light bulb! - So a 10 watt LED might give you 25 watt light, which is obviously ridiculous, but watts were to many people how you would specify how strong a light bulb was. It is like giving prices in Finnish Markka.

[@Bisqwit]

However, for this bulb, the watt rating was bogus no way which way you think of it.

[@amitbiswas710]

Can you try typeracer??? pls

[@panupentikainen953]

Suomessa seinästä tulee 230 VAC, joten lamppu on hitusen tehokkaampi kuin mitä laskit.

[@Bisqwit]

Ero on marginaalinen, ja tiedossa. Mutta todellisuudessa lamppu on paljon tehottomampi, koska lampun hyväksikäyttämä pätöteho on pienempi kuin näennäisteho, jota mittasin. Ero näiden suureiden välillä on tyypillisesti tällaisilla lampuilla aika suuri. fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A4enn%C3%A4isteho fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C3%A4t%C3%B6teho

[@LasDesventurasdeVirus]

It's 150 Chinese Watts, which are about a half of a real Watt.

[@Senokone]

Did you get that mic from aliexpress too?

[@Bisqwit]

No, I got it from Verkkokauppa.com.

[@ganstabreakincity]

When you know Bisqwit has an indoor weed tent :) Jokes aside, nice video as usually!~

[@Labs51Research]

You sure the multimeter is up to the job? Many fail horribly measuring current as they add their own load.. try a current loop and see if you get another reading.. that said I’d not imagine it would be out 100 Watts

[@Bisqwit]

I actually measured the Kailin lamp earlier using a high-quality Fluke multimeter that was properly calibrated (I borrowed it from the company I work at), and it gave similar results. I have also used _this_ multimeter to measure lamps purchased locally here, and the results are in the right ballpark. It may not be very accurate, but the results it gives are in the right ballpark at least.

[@Labs51Research]

Bisqwit shocking results excuse the pun lol 😝

[@pleasedontwatchthese9593]

I though you drove buses for a living. But I guess they could also have a fluke.

[@Bisqwit]

I did drive at some point. You can see my work history, including where I currently work at, here: www.linkedin.com/in/bisqwit/ (requires registration)

[@thenayancat8802]

I thought you were much younger than you are! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, even if thusfar I've not managed to absorb too much of it

[@sim0216]

Can you explane in a video how do you start to programming?

[@Bisqwit]

Maybe!

[@Bisqwit]

Does abandoning count as finishing? :-)

[@iProgramInCpp]

Where is the bulb from? It's not clear (You said "It is from Shanghai SheeRC Electronic Company / Electronic Commerce Co Ltd.) Did you really mean ERC?

[@Bisqwit]

iProgramInCpp An aliexpress vendor who uses that name in their communiques. For the spelling, enable subtitles. (Assuming you are reading this comment when the captions have been written. I can't remember whether that was in the past or future.)

[@iProgramInCpp]

Bisqwit What captions? Do you mean the auto-generated ones? If so then it recognised it as Shanghai ERC Electronic Company / Electronic Commerce Co Ltd. Have you heard of Discord?

[@Bisqwit]

No I mean the captions that have yet to be written. You can see the company name in the screenshots in this video. The link to the Discord server is in several of the community posts/comments at kzbin.infocommunity .

[@linus7529]

Sorry for flying my jet overhead.

[@alzahrawais]

I love this kind of videos.

[@DarkGT]

You need to test the lumens brignes.

[@Bisqwit]

The seller did not make any claim on the lumens output on this lamp, that I could have verified. Not that I have any means to verify such claims either. Measuring the light output accurately is a rather complicated process.

[@leberkassemmel]

Always divide the rating by two. I got a 100W amplifier from china, it can barely deliver 50W. I got a 900W Step-Down-Converter with a heatsink smaller than my thumb nail.

[@Bisqwit]

Sometimes dividing by two is not enough. I bought earlier a “40W” UV CFL that is barely even 15W, probably much less. (Of course I also disputed it and got a refund.)

[@leberkassemmel]

My Step-Down-Converter can not deliver 450W either. I don't want to test it how much it can really handle.

[@DamianReloaded]

I do agree very much with the honesty bit. Also, in some circles, this would be totally meme worthy. ^_^

[@keithpetrino]

That outtake at the end was more disturbing than it was funny.

[@pivkaaa]

btw. for 45 W it shines amazing:) I mean why dont they tell its 45 W, cause at this power rating its magic :)

[@njsynthesis]

3:36 -- You just committed one of the worst mistakes you could: assuming the other person knows anything, even what they're supposed to.

[@zabique]

You are legend!

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

Let me tell you the situation in China. You only need to be at 8th grade to learn how to calculate DC power rate, which is within the enforced 9 year education, so not knowing how to calculate the power would either mean the seller dropped out of school illegally, or just making an excuse. AC power rate calculation though, is something in the university physics course (that as long as your major is slightly related you have to take). Hope that makes it more clear. Also, a CFL's power range is basically directly associated with the size of it. There's just no way such small lamp can be 150W. Before you measure it I thought it's around 75W telling by the size and... Guess I'm not too far off. And also, you should probably just get LED lightbulb at this point, since they are not ultra expensive, the light looks better, and it's way more power efficient which means less heat even if you don't care about the power bill.

[@Bisqwit]

I have not been able to find E27 LED lamps that are as bright as these CFLs. And most of the cold-light LED lamps that I have found have a really bad CRI - or they begin failing in just a couple of months, because the LEDs are so imbalanced.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

Well, it's way easier to find these things in China. (Just checked. They got E27 LED as large as 200W. But those doesn't have any branding. Branded ones seems to be 50W at most. So... Maybe you can import from China? XD) As for the color, personally I think cold light LEDs is great for taking photo of objects, but if you are using those to light up your face you can use a cold light and a warm light at the same time, which looks way more natural.

[@Bisqwit]

It is not only the color temperature that matters, but the narrowness of the spectrum. Some of these cold-light lamps almost look like everything is in grayscale, or some objects look really dark in the light even though the light is bright.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

Personally, haven't experienced bad LED though... Or maybe it's just that I haven't used good CFL before so to me it feels like LED light is generally more natural. Maybe there's more luck when getting LEDs with proper CRI rating (which I actually haven't tried before)? And nonetheless, using two different color temperature LEDs together would probably widen the spectrum a bit, but in my experience I can't tell the difference.

[@meithecatte8492]

Do you know that your page on the arbitrary-palette positional dithering algorithm is broken?

[@Bisqwit]

No, but thanks for telling me, I will fix it as soon as I figure out what’s wrong. (The cause is upgrade from PHP5 to PHP7, but I have to find out what specifically PHP7 does differently that causes this particular page to be broken.)

[@ne6totapo]

im pretty sure P = I x V is for DC and not AC

[@Bisqwit]

It is the same in DC and AC. With AC there are also other power quantities like reactive power, but this is not relevant here.

[@scwfan08]

soto's peak LOL. It doesn't matter

[@danielfromca]

You know, I believe It's the same for AC as well. The AC voltage changes, but averages 220V, so it's correct to use 220V. The same is true about the current (as far as I understand) - it changes as the voltage fluctuates, but the reading is the average current. So the P calculation is correct and represents the power equivalent if it were a DC circuit.

[@Bisqwit]

A little correction: The AC voltage does not average 220V. It averages 0V. 220V is the RMS amplitude. The peaks are ±311V (220*√2).

[@ne6totapo]

i see, thanks

[@josemaria2094]

Good video!

[@LittleRainGames]

Maybe they meant 150watts peak to peak?

[@Bisqwit]

Even if you multiplied the apparent power by sqrt of 2 (ratio of peak voltage to rms voltage), it would be way under 150 Watts.

[@jonskunator]

Just be a bit more careful with high voltages. First connect the multimeter, then turn on the power. Also use a proper lamp base when testing. Using duct tape to attach a multimeter lead and poking with the another one is bad practice. Connect everything with robust connections.

[@Bisqwit]

You gotta do with what you have got at hand.

[@ui6144]

Instead of getting electrecuted, electrons passing through Bisqwit's body will be interpreted as bits and generate a neat chiptune.

[@Bisqwit]

I have gotten the full 230V many times, although nearly all of them were around 25 years ago when I was in the school. It does not feel good, it’s quite a kick, but as long as you are not grabbing something where inability to let go due to muscle contraction would mean inability to stop getting electrocuted, it’s not _that_ dangerous. Not that I recommend it to anyone. Be safe.

[@technodaz]

"1tb MicroSD card ...$1.99"....seconds later "factory upgraded". Some sellers are just complete and utter ...

[@SAerror1]

When you buy electronic modules from china it’s also probably a good idea to assume that the real rating is 50% of whatever they claim, running cheap aliexpress power supplies close to their claimed rating is how you start a fire :) ..Or maybe if you want to be sure, send one to bigclive to get it evaluated and torn down!

[@Bisqwit]

I understand you are speaking theoretically, but I’m not sending anything. Shipping from Finland is insanely expensive. This thing comes down from China for less than $10 _including_ shipping, but if I were to ship it to e.g. Germany or UK from here, it would cost me almost 30€ (about $35) even using the cheapest method. Also, the 50% rule has no basis in reality. It can be _anything._ If you buy e.g. rechargeable batteries, chances are the actual capacity is a tiny fraction of what is advertised, and there is no guarantee of how long they have been sitting on a shelf, or worse, been used before being sold to you.

[@GiygasForPresident]

I was hoping for a "Perkele!" at the end

[@Bisqwit]

I am not in the habit of praising the devil.

[@otonanoC]

Sheets over the walls. Airplanes passing. So many pitfalls.

[@Bisqwit]

?

[@HerraPlagu]

One advice ,newer buy anything from china, that touches your skin, is edible, or connected to mains voltage (or in anyother way could be lethal). ps. 2vk/rmk/II97 4eva

[@user-vn7ce5ig1z]

That's good advice; their own country is quite literally falling apart: kzbin.info?search_query=china+crumbling

"little calculator here" :D :D

[@SniperNinja115]

I love videos like these, it really puts the people creating, selling and such these products, under pressure, in a good way. At least the provider for the second bulb was honest:))black_heartx2*.. much love, brother, keep it up, metaphorically speaking, take care:))black_heartx2*..

[@piratesephiroth]

You need a bowl cut to become a true disciple of Markorepairs.

[@CristiNeagu]

0:55 No, no, no, no, no. After you say "And i have duct tape" you're supposed to say "What could possibly go wrong?"

[@pulltheskyopen]

You Rock... Good vid...

[@DjVortex-w]

Duct tape, the essential electronics tool. Never do electronics without it!

[@wizardscrollstudio]

Is not just China. This happens all over

[@DjVortex-w]

I hear many countries in South America are also pretty infamous for these types of things.

[@eleganteatinginjapan659]

Bisqwit, the type of dude to manually push electrons around because coding is too easy.

[@nomnom-le8hs]

That cut tho 00:02

[@Bisqwit]

Time travel glitch!

[@DeluxDT]

You live near airport?

[@Bisqwit]

About 15 km away, but some lines fly straight overhead.

[@Green-zp4le]

Hey -- once again good work on your videos :-). My last suggestion was quite theoretical -- but would you be interested in perhaps showing off Linux ptrace + procfs for building a simple C and asm debugger?

[@Bisqwit]

I will have to think of it. I have used ptrace previously to make these videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWnVfoGBgJJja6s It shows in real time which parts of the C code are being activated and run on each frame. Best appreciated in 4K quality. (It also shows in real time which parts of the game ROM and RAM are being accessed on each frame, but these features did not involve ptrace().)

[@altro5067]

Regardless of how many times I've fully watched this video, KZbin keeps saying I only watched the first minute. I hope that doesn't result in a low watch time.

[@Bisqwit]

Thank you for the effort. Maybe you have the video open in mobile and on desktop, and they interfere? I don’t know.

[@toivolehti9478]

Hyvä viesti tarkkaavaisuudesta.

[@toivolehti9478]

Taas lentokone!

[@danaadalaide5648]

Thats a small cfl, i have two 500 watt ones, they are huge!

[@Bisqwit]

I am almost certain they are either definitely not 500 watts, or not CFL. Can you show me a link to the product page?