Testing Rustoleum 2X Furniture Paint On A Model Car! The Most Controversial Topic In Model Painting!

[@wigwam104]

I just used Rustolium Apple red/gloss clear coat. You can’t wait too long to spray clear coat. You have to spray on as if it were a third or fourth coat of the color. I learned this by accident out of frustration. I get satisfactory results now

[@mawhite30]

just got done with the body paint for a AMT 2023 Ford Bronco Outer Banks and I used Rustoleum 2x Gloss Seaside. My paint process involved heating the paint can by sitting it in some warm tap water for about 10 minutes - not hot water , but enough to warm the can - the warmth thins the paint a little and allows smoother paint flow , yes still firehose level amount but if you practice your finger pressure on the can you can get better flow than with the cold can, move the can rather quick and use quick bursts, it does work, then set the body aside for probably a week to let the enamel cure. also make sure to shake the can for a while . just my $0.02

[@edwardnash7411]

It works great if you wet sand it to. There is nothing wrong with using Rustoleum if you use it at a good distance and do it in light coats. And I never have any problems

[@alvinpowell6189]

The distance is the cause of the roughness.

[@BrianDutz-j8p]

Hello, thank you for taking the time to show your test of these paints. Using Rustoleum paints takes practice and patience. It is a big learning curve that is for sure, mastering distance, speed, and pressure. I have a couple suggestions. If you try the experiment again, use the Rustoleum automotive primer. The automotive primer is a little thinner and usually takes 2-3 coats. The warmer, the better. Adding each can to warm water for a few minutes will help the paint flow better. The base color goes on in layers, just like you did. I do not spray the clear on while the paint is wet as mentioned below, not saying it is wrong, just not what I do. In all honesty, I use acrylic clears on enamels (even on my military builds, before weathering and detailing). I think it is necessary to wait at least a week before clearing though, making sure the paint has cured completely. I have had Rustoleum take 2 weeks to cure before. The clear needs to be the same. Light coats (again, takes practice), usually 2-3 before 2 wet coats. With that being said, I feel you will have a completely different outcome when you decant. Thinner layers, quicker drying time, and probably better results. The experiment may not be fair. I feel it's about technique over delivery vessel. As far as cost goes, these cans before the pandemic were $4 a can. Completely different conversation. For someone on a very tight budget, the $400 startup cost may not be feasible. The $400 is 50 cans of paint with a homemade spray booth. I am lucky enough to have a large enough spray booth vented to the outside, I can paint indoors all year round. Again, thank you for taking the time to do this. I mean no disrespect with my comments. I look forward to your next experiment. There really is no comparison between airbrushing and using Rustoleum out of a spray can. The airbrush wins, hands down. For some, mastering the spray can is easier than mastering the airbrush. To each there own. I hope everyone can benefit from all the comments and your experiments.

[@RattleCanShenanigans]

Thank you for shooting this, sir. I know that people who use Rustoleum that might cite your technique or some other user-related issue to explain your results, but this video illustrated the issue that many builders have faced when using these products. You have three cans from the same product line, in the same product brand, and despite that, using them ultimately led to a failed result. There is so much more control available with an airbrush setup. Ultimately, its made it far easier for me to dial in a good result.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

100%. With my airbrush I can focus on other details snd fine tune other processes. Thanks for watching!

[@SolamenteVees]

I only use that paint on my chassis. The flat black primer works great as long as you’re not heavy-handed in application. Still a huge fan of Tamiya rattle cans for bodies & clear.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Tamiya paints are amazing. The black primer would be better if not the 2X cause it just dump out of the nozzle.

[@johndicola4229]

I agree that the clear works great if laid on while the color is still wet. Otherwise you must wait a week or more or the cleat will wrinkle.

[@JaySki-b8g]

As soon as a you mentioned Luka Cee, I can hear the “pro’s” making fun of people using Rustoleum.

[@EdwinWickham]

If Rustoleum offered to sponsor his channel and send him free 'samples' he'd shill for them. Best paint in the world 10% off if you use my code. 🤣

[@Stupidfastracing]

​@@EdwinWickhamthat guy complains about everything

[@GordoGrande69]

Luka Cee sucks. His channel sucks. His attitude sucks. Everything about that miserable dude just sucks.

[@GordoGrande69]

I use Rustoleum and Krylon almost exclusively. Rustoleum clear funny enough isn't generally compatible with its own paint. I use Duplicolor clear over it with no issues. If people can't make a decent model with Rustoleum then it's usually user error.

[@TheLukaCeeChannel]

@@EdwinWickham not in one Effing second I would.

[@BigSkyModelWorkshop]

For guys looking for a budget spray paint option, Krylon makes a brand called Short Cuts, its an enamel, but seems to work really well. Its about $4-6 a can, the only bummer is a limited color selection.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I’ve seen that at the store. Might test that as well. Lol

[@duncanstone8758]

I recently finished an ancient Strombecker Cessna T-37 kit painted with 2X black primer and Krylon Short Cuts Metallic Chrome. I let the primer cure for two days before spraying the silver and it looks great. The Krylon reminds me of the Testors spray can silver I used on models back in the 60's.

[@southpaw5483]

There are hundreds of videos such as "hpiguys Workshop" and "The Autistic Modeler" using hardware type spray paint rattle cans with wonderful results.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yes I know. I was just testing it to see.

[@Gene1969]

I have to point out that HpiGuys doesn't use clearcoat after the color. He puts a floor polish on to "wax" them. Personally, I just throw on a primer and then the color coat. It's good enough for me but I'm a casual builder.

[@rickrice3221]

I just tried Rustoleum clear over Ace flat black; the clear (and I wasn’t shy about laying it on) didn’t curdle like yours, but the texture in the flat black never went away, either. From using rattle cans on 1:1 car parts, I’ve found that hardware store / tractor paint cans really need you to follow the “within 2 hr / after 48 hr” rule.

[@thomasdecker7631]

I sometimes use Rustoleum 2X flat on model railroad structures. It works well for things like models of concrete grain elevators or brick walls where a certain amount of texture is desirable, (go figure) but haven't tried it on vehicles, locomotives, etc. It probably has wider application in the model railroad hobby where we are often trying to create a flat, weathered, dirty appearance. The suggestion to heat the can sounds worth trying.

[@TheLukaCeeChannel]

So you FELL on THAT Sword. 😂 Nice job.....on the video. 😁 Thanks for doing this.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yea. Kinda hooked on testing the different paints. I’m a sucker for pain 😂

[@Smiteourenimies]

I use Rust-Oleum most of the time. I bought a spray nozzle that even the flow of the paint light handed.

[@robertm5426]

Thanks for sharing. I'm going through my first model build in decades; so I've been watching plenty of videos that have been helpful with my current project. I don't have many hobby shops where I live, so when I visited an "art shop", they sold me graffiti spray paints. The color I used for the body was so horribly textured, I sanded it down to a "reasonable" level of smoothness and just left it at that. It's my first project after all; but I wanted to share that after feeling bamboozled with the graffiti paints, I went to my backyard shed, picked up a few cans of Krylon to paint the interior and chassis. Those turned out a lot better than what the crappy graffiti paint resulted for the body. The Krylon colors I used were flat black, semi-gloss grey and silver. I had no stubble nor messy texture problems with those. The seats and interior door panels just needed light sanding to correct minimal spots of stubble. When you were priming and painting, I kept wishing the video would've shown your hand movement because I'm still trying to get my spray painting technique right. Other than that, great video. Cheers!!!

[@Crazyscalemodels]

With the 2x it was hard cause paint came out so heavy and quick and I was trying to achieve a good paint job. I have other videos on other paints coming up and hopefully I can show more of the hand movements. Thanks for watching.

[@bradwolfgang1037]

The main problem that I see with painting polystyrene paints with rattlecan lacquers is 2, or 3 fold. #1 is the wide variation in styrene plastic. Different styrenes react differently with lacquer based paints. It also depends on the primer used and if it “seals off” the plastic from the “hot” solvent in the paint and clear. The best ( and least expensive) method I have found is to go away from “hot-solvent”-based paint altogether. I have gone to polyurethane blended acrylic craft paints ( from Hobby Lobby, Michael’s, Wal-Mart or other craft stores ) as always with any polystyrene model, the drill is the same 1. Sand and prep ( various grades all the way down to about 3500 grit just before prime ) 2. No bare hands - rubber gloves when wet sanding. ( I see people airbrushing models with bare hands on You Tube all the time ….and their paint doesn’t stick ) bare hands have “fingers salts and oils” ( origin of fingerprints ) so Do not, can not, am not, will not wet sand models with bare hands. Do do it. Wash sanded model with soap and alcohol. Using rubber gloves. 3. Mix varying %’s of polyurethane ( MinWax Polycrilic ) with your primer - start with about 35%. 4. Stir your paint. 5. Thin your paint properly ( not like milk, more like melted ice cream ) 6. Filter your paint ( stainless funnel filter ) just before it goes into the air brush. Allow all coats to dry down 24-48 hours between coats. 7. Wet sand primer and color coats between each paint session. ( knock down any orange peel or peach fuzz ) color coats can be between 35% and 50% polyurethane. ( gloss or satin ) 8. 3 coats of MinWax Polycryllic clear. Either gloss or satin. For about $2.95 craft paint from Hobby Lobby, will have enough paint several models. I think “specialized” model paints are GROSSLY over priced. ( almost to the “rip-off” level ) they also seem to be “fad-based” for the latest brands. You will find that no more “hot solvents” = no more crazed paint. I’ll never go back to hot solvent paint. Water-based polyurethane is a vastly superior “bonder” over plastic. And hard enough to buff polish clear coats. The other great advantage is that you can airbrush indoors without driving everyone out of the house. Try it. Good Luck.

[@cam32112]

Great video! I would really appreciate a video on a good way to decant paint from a spray can & then using it with an airbrush. My nearest hobby store is a 5 hour drive round trip, but my local hardware store has a huge selection of of large can spray paint at reasonable prices. Thanks!

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I’m definitely going to do one. Have a couple kits to catch up on then I’m back to testing and how tos. Thanks for watching.

[@jameswischerath]

i recently started using rustoleum to paint the toy truck bodies i use on my rc cars. i just use basic rustoleum. no fancy crap. no clear coat. the most important thing is to use very light coats. you'll get much better results & the overall total drying time will be much shorter.

[@barpfoto]

this is good quality KZbin. You’re a great communicator and you’ve made the presentation clear and engaging. I only wished for not dead silence during the fast motion parts and some nice slow super close-up shots after each material was applied. And what are those rustoleum materials? Are they lacquers?

[@Crazyscalemodels]

First of all thank you for the kind words. Secondly I signed up for a music provider so we shouldn’t have as much “silent” time. Third I think they are enamel. My normal paint is lacquer through an airbrush. Thanks for watching🙏

[@barpfoto]

@@Crazyscalemodels I get a lot of clips for my channel from KZbin‘s own library. Sometimes it takes a little digging to get something that doesn’t sound like an amateur did it but at least it’s free and convenient. And that’s always the frustrating thing about spraycans… I would have assumed they were lacquers but it’s always hard to tell. One of the best reasons for never using them.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

That and I feel like every paint, even in the same line, is a different formulation that may or may not jive with each other. Just too many variables and after spending $30-$80 bucks on a kit, I’d hate to have a cheap paint mess it up. Lol

[@jeffyoung8726]

Sometimes it has a lot to do with the climate in your painting area? OR, maybe the paint might not be fully dry? I too have had some bad results with Rustoleum stray paint. However some of their primers can have a longer cure process? In any case, thank you for this video. I like it whenever it's not just me having issues with paint!

[@robertlaporte9540]

That paint is all I use on my bodies it works great

[@tomday7309]

Thanks for doing this video. I use light gray Rustoleum automotive primer/surfacer for some of my scratch builts as a base, then sand and then have only used Rustoleum regular gloss color once. I did what you did and waited a day after the color to spray the clear gloss on it and it alligatored badly. I've gotten excellent results on metal lawn furniture however. I normally use mostly Duplicolor automotive touchup paint for color and clear and it has been compatible with the Rustoleum primer/surfacer. I tend to like the Tamiya spray lacquers even thought they are ridiculous expensive in small cans.

[@bobdavis874]

I use duplicolor as well perfect match really likethe finnished product,sprays on real nice, found you an spray it on top of the Rustoleum but you can't spray Rustoleum over the duplicolor or it reacts poorly.

[@smokinjoe3117]

Personally I don't like rustoleum primer or the clear coat. But the paint by itself is fine. If I paint a body with rustoleum I always use dupli color primer and future for the clear coat and it turns out great.

[@bradlavassaur8265]

So, I've been building a 1/35 scale tamya merkava tank and have used the same rustolium primer and tan color in a satin finish and have had no issues like this on video. So, l was going to use a dull coat to seal in the decals, but we'll see how it works out. Thank you for sharing. I found this video to be very helpful. 😊

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks. Thanks for watching.

[@ruckusracing419]

I’ve had the exact same problem with Real Orange and one of the Rustoleum pinks melting under clear but not with other colors.

[@kylespeed1]

I've been painting some of my cars for quite a while along with the clear coat on my slot cars with Rustolium. You have to watch out with the clear coat though, you have to do misting coats with it or you will get blisters or runs. I usually do one misting coat of clear gloss and install the decals then add two coats of clear. Some decals, but very few. may not like the clear coat also. Good show!!!

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks! I tried to mist but the 2X nozzle just dumps when you touch it. lol. I verified that I was within recoat time frames as printed on the cans. I’m bought regular rustoleum and am going to do a test with that as well. Thanks for watching.

[@wwiiinplastic4712]

I've used Rustoleum and Krylon. Depends on the particular color and the plastic in the kit, plus whatever degreasing agent might be on the plastic. Some paints I've had great results on, and some I have had to strip and go back to airbrushing something.

[@QMore-fp7wn]

I’ve had great results with the cheapest Walmart sprays using black primer and their flat and gloss finishes.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I have a can of that to test also

[@mikeroberts5646]

Looks to me like the effect of using Enamel and clear coating Acrylic,I made that mistake a few times in my near 50 years of doing this Cheers from Chicago West Suburbs

[@michaelnoel8301]

That s right hold at distance. Also put cans in a small bucket of warm water before spray to warm paint. It flows much nicer. Here s a pic of a semi with rustoleum primer paint in clear. If I can figure how to send it to you.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

My email should be in the description. [e-mail].

[@modelcar1589]

I know exactly how you feel, I only primary with the spray can now.👍🏿

[@venvnco6259]

I have sanded in about 3 days and painted again with the same color paint. It seems to shine better with no problems. I tried to clear like you did And had the same problem.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Someone mentioned having to wait a week or 2 to clear or do it within 20mins of painting. So I’ll add that test to the list and do a clear test later. Thanks for watching.

[@venvnco6259]

@@Crazyscalemodels If you test the clear again. You might want to do it on a scrap piece. It made such a mess of my car I could not save it.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@ I bought a bunch of styrene “car bodies” for my tests. I have a couple extra bodies but I have a lot of tests planned and don’t want to waste kits on them.

[@Waltkat]

I've gotten great results with Rustoleum and I've gotten bad. The bad results were mostly due to my mistakes or me being in a rush. I warm up the can most of the time to improve both the atomization and how the paint lays down. The trick with Rustoleum is to put the clear down within 20 minutes of spraying the last coat of color. If you can't do that, then you have to wait at least a week before doing the clear. I usually try for two weeks. The color coat needs to fully cure/harden before more paint is laid on. If you can still smell the solvents on the paint, then it's not cured yet. I can tell you that for painting car and motorcycle parts (real ones, not models), my goto paint is Rustoleum. I especially like their clear because it goes down smooth, covers well, doesn't run easily, and is durable. For my models, it's a mix of Rustoleum, Krylon, Tamiya, Vallejo, and common art store craft acrylic paints. With a few other odd brands thrown in.

[@gkrew1969]

Interesting when someone comments " I never have a problem", but never tells you there routine. (time in between coats...etc. ) which would be helpful. Also your at the mercy of whatever air pressure randomly come out of the can. Ive been automotive painter the past 50yrs. Im with you. Dont like gambling paint systems on hrs of work. Hpi guys paint jobs are not good btw.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Right. But if the user is happy and content I’m not gonna knock it. Just gonna test and share and answer questions I’m able to answer. Thanks for watching.

[@scotth9881]

It's definitely an interesting test. I'm curious if there is a difference between the regular ones and the 2x, since isn't the 2x thing about more coverage? There might actually be a difference.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Possibly. And the 2x is about more coverage. I might strip the body and just get some cheap paint and try another test and see if it’s different.

[@wingnutsworkshop]

I hear the 2x gloss is the issue. I've had the same results using 2x and switched to Krylon to avoid it with great success.

[@floydturner9896]

I'm working on the same model right now using cranberry 2x rustoleum, the only draw back I've found is after a couple cotes you start to lose the emblems because the paint is heavy but it always looks good in the end.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

That’s the biggest issue with the 2X I noticed in my test is it comes out so heavy no matter how light you press.

[@jasonmoore7629]

Yea i don't like the flat black as a primer cause it comes out way rough and clumpy, what i like is the flat gray primer it comes out pretty smooth plus with a lil wet sanding after

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I have the grey primer for my next couple tests. All they had in the 2X was black when I picked up the paint. But I agree it comes out rough and clumpy for sure. Thanks for watching

[@NW-Scale]

Ive had it work fine, and Ive had it etch the plastic. There is a way to seal the plastic so its fine. Thats what I do every time.

[@c123bthunderpig]

Glad you did this video because I'm seeing so many model makers say this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. FOR me I find these rattle cans are formulated too " hot" for model plastics. The rattle cans made for modeling are formulated correctly Vallejo makes big cans but they are expensive. I'm a new subscriber and would like to know what your PAINT REMOVAL technique would be if you strip the car body. ? Thanks, looking forward to learning some new techniques. Plus any of you subscribers comments as well.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks for watching. Yes this paint is hot for a model body. I’m probably going to do a video on trying brake fluid for paint removal. A lot of people use it and results are mixed so I’m going to do a video on that along with any negative effects on the plastic post strip to see if it changes how paint sticks.

[@davidg.5076]

I decant 2x, thin a bit extra with lacquer thinner and the airbrushed finish is fantastic. Remember these are enamels, including the primer. Chuck the primer and use Mr Surfacer.instead. And with my results there is no need for the clear. I put down about 5 coats with the airbrush and the paint film is no where near the thickness of the spray cans single coat. But smooth and mirror gloss. Looking into the finish you can see the ceiling lights and count the number of bulbs. It not just semi gloss or shiny but mirror shine. Same result I get from Testors bottle enamels, also made by Rustoleum. But back to the fact that these are enamel, they aren't anywhere near cured in even 3-4 days. Think more like a month before polishing or waxing. Ya, they are touch dry but that's it. Not cured through to the primer in any sort of short order.

[@Xebeche]

Thanks so much for this. Do you get your Proscale products directly from Proscale in the UK? I haven't tried them yet because the shipping costs are prohibitively expensive for just a few bottles at a time.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yes straight from UK. I make my orders large enough to justify the shipping. Iv literally planned several builds ahead so Im set for a while. I don’t think they have any distributors either. I think it’s just them.

[@monkfry]

“As light as you can spray a garden hose on a model” Hahaaa!!! I literally just sprayed a truck cab with 2X and then this video pops up. Helluva an experience for sure but it worked holding the can about 2’ away. Not so sure it’s worth it.

[@raymondbrudnicki1850]

I've seen all the Facebook comments and keep hearing people say let the color coat dry a week before the clear. Cant wait to see the decanted video.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks for watching. I’ve heard all different reasons for the clear doing this. Just have to test and report what I find.

[@cellardwellerproductions5125]

A very worthwhile experiment. This is a lot different than some of the results we see on here. I haven't seen the other challenge that was posted from either of the sources you had mentioned. Might look into it. Most likely not. Not a fan of meta. I know of Luke, but don't care for his comment section, so don't bother.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

The challenge was on the podcast. As for the comments on his FB group. A lot of negativity there for sure.

[@jchevy4067]

I've had issues with Rustoleum clear coats also found if you spray it while the paint is still tacky it's usually fine but I use min wax in a spray can ot works on everything it looks hazy after you spray it but it dries crystal clear it comes in gloss and matt if you want a flat look

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I might try that. Spray the paint and then after 10 mins or so hit it with the clear and see what happens. It’s all about testing.

[@dustinrossi9384]

Idk if any ones tried hdx from home depot, they only have few basic colors. But its useufull for quick chassi or interior 😊

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I’ll definitely write that one down and test that one. Thanks for the suggestion

[@dustinrossi9384]

@Crazyscalemodels yeah it's like 3 dollars a can, but I think it's pretty good, for chassis interior Lil bits all depends. Gl

[@sambaldwin3730]

The problem with paints is a lot of people don't have a hobby store around and shipping is getting expensive.

[@ZebZanko]

I had the same crinkle happen to me spraying the clear over Tamiya black. Good luck stripping the paint. It will take a week. On a different model I used the Rustoleum 2x brilliant blue and after a week it still wasn't dry.--That took a week to strip too. The only spray from a can I'll use are the automotive primers from the auto parts store. Most brands work well as as base for enamels or lacquer. Other brands are specific for lacquer or enamels. I'll never use the Rustoleum spray on a car body again. I use enamels, lacquers and acrylics...Testors, MCW, Splash, Scale Finishes, Tamaya and Vallejo. Clear--I use an automotive 2K.

[@rfeliciano]

Can't wait for the de canting video as well as the final result.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I’m hoping the decant gives better results. But the decant video is to test if it’s the paint or the volumn/propellant causing issues. Thanks for watching.

[@njcivicwagon1]

Nice informative video. Curious to see the decanted version. Thanks for sharing

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks for watching

[@jimmiepoole7370]

I use it on models all the time.. Key is don't wait between the paint an the clear.. as soon as last coat of paint has tacked then spray clear.. works out great.. far as Rustoleum primmers use the gray not the nasty black.. an as soon as it tacks spray the paint.. the problem is waiting till next day between paints. hope this helps.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks for the info. Just testing it since there is so much drama around it. Lol

[@brittboyette461]

I can get it to work but it takes forever to cure. It's a PIA overall, especially in the winter time. I just don't have those problems with Tamiya paints and the finish is much better.

[@larrrevenga49]

Mine model came out good using reg rust o. Let it dry in boiler room with small fan

[@modelbehavior3252]

The reason this type of paint isn’t ideal for model cars is twofold. One, the nozzle shoots out a huge amount of paint and doesn’t atomize very well which results in a pebbled finish. Secondly, the solids in the paint are larger than what is found in hobby spray paints so you will lose detail, have to sand forever to level it and the details will still be filled with excess paint (door and trunk jambs, emblems and trim). I’ll also say that everyone who proclaims that they get wonderful results never post close up, well lit photos. They hide the results and the ones who occasionally do post clear, well lit pictures don’t appear to understand what a great paint job looks like.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yup that’s what I came up with after this test. Doing tests on all the spray paints because of all the heated discussions on Facebook. I personally use model specific primers, lacquers and 2K clear through my airbrushes. Sometimes enamels. If I use spray cans for anything it Tamiya or Mr Hobby but that’s pretty rare. Thanks for watching.

[@ghrobbs]

What good does it do to buy a big can of paint if you end up stripping & re painting once or maybe twice. Not to mention the amount of paint wasted through overspray. I too get the argument, If this is the ONLY paint you have access to, you have to make it work. If you can afford to step up your game then please do so. You wont regret it in the long run. Great video & hope a valuable lesson was learned by someone today.

[@BrianF.1969]

I've used the 2X flat and semi gloss black for small parts, frame, floor pans and even interiors with great success. I really like the flat black. They do take a week or more to cure though and that's after being in a dehydrator for 12 hrs. I haven't tried any other colors. I'd be curious to see what would happen if you'd use the orange without the primer or clear. The only thing I've had success with when using their clears is over createx wicked paints when painting fishing lures. It seems to react to every other paints I've tried.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Without the clear it looked ok. Not lacquer airbrush good but decent for a picture. The clear is what reacted. The fact it takes that long to fully cure is crazy too. But it was a test and I have others in mind to do as well. Thanks for watching.

[@Bubbasmodelcarshop]

I would like to see it with just the regular rust oleum .great test .

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I think I may do a test with regular rustoleum and see what happens. Thanks for watching.

[@354Texxx]

I tried the Krylon, and it comes out in blobs. And the lacquer causes the plastic to melt... The rustolium, some of them now have adjustable nozzles, but even at the lowest setting, it's still too much and it's still too heavy. . Even try spraying these into a cup and putting it in my airbrush, which had better results.But the lacquer we'll either melt the plastic or cause the primer to craze.... Stick to model paints, you'll be much happier and you'll save a bunch of money...JMO..cheers

[@christesta2521]

Maybe the orange didn't cure enough. Also Im thinking that the 2x paints go on to heavy. Especially the clear coat. In rare instances I've used regular rustoleum without any issues. Especially during COVID when my local hobby stores were closed and model car paints were inaccessible. I wouldnt knock anyone who uses and knows how to apply Rustoleum. Our hobby is all about having fun. Great test video using 2X. Thanks for sharing.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks for watching.

[@AustinsModelCars]

I use this Rustoleum paint for the most part. I use it because I don't know how to airbrush and it's cheap. I'd rather spend $5 on a can of paint that will last me on a few different models than to spend a good amount more on paint, thinner, and everything else for airbrushing. Plus I can pick this up when I'm at Walmart every week compared to making extra trip to a dedicated model store for Tamiya or airbrush paint. Occasionally I'll use Tamiya or a different spray. I know that I don't usually get a good paint job but a shotty paint job is better than it not being painted.

[@kevinmuckleroy6368]

Odd I used the same paint on my 66 Nova had no issues.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

That was part of the test is a lot of people use that same paints and get widely different results. Gonna try different brands and paints and see what they do also.

[@Deansscalemodelzone]

what was your process? particularly time between each color or coat?

[@redcastle12b31]

I use rattlecan on all my kits. Occasionally, i have a problem, but that is usually me being lazy or impatient.

[@INeeDMyGarageTime]

With Rust-Oleum you can't spray clear over gloss not even enamel. I use all the time mostly on chassis and interior It's a certain way it has to be sprayed to get a smooth finish and I never have to wet sand. Another thing I use is dupli-color with 1k clear or tamiya with 1k High gloss finish doesn't really matter to me anyway because classic cars didn't have a super high gloss back then It's a

[@Crazyscalemodels]

It’s amazing that the directions on the can say nothing about that(not clearing over the gloss paints). I followed the time windows and recommendations on the can and this happened. I was just testing the heated rustoleum topic and can see how the paint can be misleading and even discourage someone from staying in the hobby. I use all lacquers through the airbrush and 2K clear. I have some Tamiya rattle cans for random bits and a water based clear for chrome.

[@INeeDMyGarageTime]

@Crazyscalemodels I'm getting ready to cross over to airbrush for more color options. And That 2k definitely puts the G in Gloss 😄

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@INeeDMyGarageTime it’s a game changer. Not saying you can’t get a decent paint job from cans but there something to be said about being able to have ultimate control over the whole process. In the US splash paints are great. I’m in the US and use primarily ProScale paints from the UK.

[@Jimmy-sb3fc]

What advantages do you find by dry sanding vs. wet?

[@Crazyscalemodels]

For the primer if I wet sanded it would have become “muddy”. The primer had so much texture. I only wet sand if I need to wet sand color coats or clear. That’s what works for me.

[@Jimmy-sb3fc]

@@Crazyscalemodels Thank you so much for taking the time to respond!

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@ I try to answer questions when I can. Thanks for watching!

[@FrankMetzenbauer]

I use Rust-Oleum exclusively...can't afford Tamiya paint or Vallejo...it works just fine

[@AmateurScaleModelBuildi-lj3so]

Before i bought my airbrush, i used rustoleom for all my kit painting. I didn't like it because it covers so heavy. And the Frankenstein effect happened way to often.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Before I went 99% airbrush I used my hobby and Tamiya. Haven’t used non hobby paint in years.

[@EdwinWickham]

Those types of cans are too messy for my spray cabinet. I keep my work area clean and the overspray isn't worth the bother of the clean up afterwards. People do get nice results or so they say after all it is the internet 🤣. Thanks for doing the test. Gloss yellow and orange are sometimes a challenge in airbrush paints too.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yea I didn’t quite expect this much of a mess in my booth from these cans but it is what it is. As long as the video helps and/or informs someone I’m ok with it.

[@alvinpowell6189]

I noticed a couple of things 1) the orange paint was not primer + paint 2) he never mentioned what 2X means, but he demonstrated well! 2X is a FUNCTION not a formula!!! He said “it’s like painting with a garden hose”. And in my opinion, there in lies the problem. You noticed how far out of frame the can was when spraying and the enormous amounts paint hitting the body in really big droplets. And that far back the paint will begin to harden in flight to the body and will not flatten out. And I feel the clear loosened the uncured paint under the surface and it crinkled. I have said many times the Rusty- Stuff is adequate paint IF decanted thinned (if required) and applied with an airbrush. Also it seems when the primer+paint is used there is a reaction of some kind causing problems. This was an outstanding video, and thank you sir for putting yourself out there as you did!!! Good job! I look forward to your next installment!

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thanks. And I have no problem making these videos as I don’t care what people think. I’m gonna test things in a manner like someone new to the hobby would and present my findings. And the the paint being just paint is why I used primer 1st. I do have a can of krylon primer and paint 1 can system to test. Thanks for watching!

[@playanddisplay3636]

I never sand the bodies that I plan on doing Rustoleum quick and crappy paint jobs. They always wrinkle like yours did, I think the plastics vent once sanded and the thick paint catches the gas releases. I'm not an expert but I can get ok results with Rustoleum.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Could be. I airbrush and figured I’d test rusto and prepped like I always do. Makes sense tho. Thanks for watching!

[@playanddisplay3636]

@@Crazyscalemodels Stoked to find your channel, you got a new subscriber here. I've been following Luca Cee from the beginning of his channel and try to jump in on some of their group builds. Love all those guys. The Rally Fun sounds well... Fun! Thinking a Tour De France Road rally car will be what I try to take a shot at. I do both but need more practice on my airbrush. The gas release is just my best guess, and I think I remember a YT video about certain plastics needing time to vent after being sanded on or cut. The wrinkles always seemed to happen at the edge of where I sanded and kinda feathered it.

[@chesterlewis-iq3rp]

It’s Chet, Chester or Billboard, I think it’s the clear coat, I did a model with TAMIYA let it sit for a week and sprayed with the rustoleum clear and it did it to the TAMIYA paint just like your body ended up. I personally don’t like any rattle can as you have in my opinion much more control with an airbrush. My email was part serious and part out of jest. My biggest pet peeve with the whole arguments on the book of Face are the ones who knock the hardware store rattle cans say only use hobby paints on models, what they won’t mention is the “hobby paints” they refer too especially the better ones are actual automotive grade paints in small quantities, and 2k clear is automotive clear. Just my 2 cents and with the economy of the past 4 years is worth a 1/4 of a half cent lol. And yes I sometimes can be sarcastic,

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I agree with thinking it’s the clear. I didn’t the test using all the same “product line “ cause that’s what common knowledge says. Get all the same line and it should work fine. I’m on the side of whatever your happy with and works for you then rock it. Just enjoy the hobby. I personally use lacquer and 2k now cause the end result is the best I’ve seen and imo it’s easy for me. But yea the economy has kinda screwed things up. Your email gave me the idea to do various tests so if someone new to the hobby has issues maybe they would see the video and not lose hope. It’s a great hobby and takes some trial and failures to find what works for you. Thanks for watching

[@chesterlewis-iq3rp]

@ I mostly use createx, have had some issues but am getting mostly great results, I use kbs diamond clear cause I don’t want to spray 2k in the house, I’ve also have had great results and some not so great especially as it ages but usually it’s user error. I have some scale finishes paints but haven’t tried it yet.

[@West_Georgia_Rods_Customs]

Valid point that Rustoleum products even when used together and with proper techniques will cause modelers so much grief that either they will look to other products to achieve the result they are after. Such outcomes will turn modelers away from the hobby or they will make the determination in their own.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Exactly. I honestly didn’t expect this result but that goes to show how unpredictable non hobby specific paints can be. Thanks for watching

[@Darckstar52]

I use the flat black as primer on model tanks

[@FrankMetzenbauer]

Another observation., the little bottles of enamals from Testors....are manufactured by Rustoleum

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Rustoleum bought testers I believe. I use that paint as the adhesive when I do flocking on interiors.

[@Enigma-Sapiens]

Ignore the "Pros", it can and has been done for years. IMO the most important part is in the prep, priming, and sanding of your model. If you do not prep and sand I have found that the Rustoleum either causes or exaggerates some areas of the model bodies to be rough or have strange designs form in them. With proper preparation and sanding, this is not an issue.

[@brianlewis6926]

Curious if the regular crap works

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I have it to test also

[@Eddie-di6eb6cv8v]

I use rustoleum primer. I believe that the solvents straight from the can is too strong. I decant it and after gassing it out it can be used using an airbrush.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

That’s gonna be a test I do. Same paints through the airbrush.

[@brucek3217]

Rustoleum makes a lot of different kinds of paint. I'm guessing the Orange paint and the clear do not say what they are? Enamel? Acrylic? water based? Lacquer? a combination mixed in the can? Meaning if they don't say how do you know what paints, clears and primer are compatible? Personally I probably would have tried a Rustoleum automotive paint, but it might not have mattered. It's way to expensive to try all their paints but now I'm wondering if people are getting good results - what kind of Rustoleum are they using? I also don't think it matters if it says plastic on the can since you used primer and that's the barrier everyone uses before paint. This is an interesting topic ! 👍

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I agree. I would definitely not recommend the 2X at least. Lol

[@williwass6837]

They use it the right way!Not like an elephant in the porcellain shop!😉

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@ I guess I’m an elephant 🤷

[@ronstewart9792]

Don't know why that lifted. I have been shooting Rustoleum for years. Ron

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Idk why either. Not what I expected but 🤷

[@jasonrothgeb6071]

The issue with 2X is you see so many people posting problems they have with it on LCHHQ. To use an analogy, there are people who are trained in setting off fireworks who put on beautiful displays for all to enjoy. And every year there are untrained individuals who end up in the ER. Our host (what's your name sir? Can you tell I am new?) properly identified as did other commenters that the main problem is improper drying/curing time as well as the nozzle dispersion with its volume. I am spending that same $8 for a can of Tamiya. Ease of use is much higher, and the chance of screwing it up is much less. Magnify that with the Tamiya Primer vs. The 2X. Put me down as another person who would like to see you use the regular stuff versus the 2X. Decanting 2X seems like a waste, because who is decanting this stuff? This video was a success. The thumbnail drew me in, and the quality of the video got me to "Like, Subscribe, and Comment."🙂

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Thank you. And I am going to do one with regular rusto. I have other brands in line too. And yes the 2X is overkill which is why I chose to try it. It’s like painting with a fire hose. lol. I also use tamiya when I don’t want to airbrush something because the paint is of higher quality and is easier to use. Thanks for watching !

[@venvnco6259]

Only problem I have had is the nozzle clogging at about 1/2 can or less . After cleaning the nozzle it clogs again very soon.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I could see that. The 2X does what the can says and pumps out ALOT of paint. Lol

[@venvnco6259]

The 2X drys faster than the regular and shines the same regular can take 3 days to dry . I like using 2x but do not clear it.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I waited 2 days and it was dry and I could handle it without leaving finger prints. It looked decent but the clear wrecked it. Before clear it did have some crazing going on.

[@Stupidfastracing]

I use it on my models and I don't have any problems with it

[@dustinrossi9384]

I use rusty often, ive only had one real "disaster" but that was user error on my part. Idk use what works for yall, its your model build it how ya want.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

If it makes you happy go with it. I just enjoy testing things and showing what happens good or bad. I airbrush hobby specific lacquer paints for most stuff on my builds. Thanks for watching!

[@dustinrossi9384]

@Crazyscalemodels yeah I'm trying to go more hobby grade paints.. but I get lazy with air brush ha, found ya channel from lucka cees page or w.e lol. I enjoy the content and the testing you yutubers do! Helps alot as I'm always questioning my choices in paints and steps ext. Happy modeling

[@theintake8961]

Two mist coats, two medium coats and a final coat, but never heavy. From what i could tell in the video you went kind of heavy with the clear. I'm not saying that paint can match an airbrush or even Tamiya cans, but I have a few nice builds that look nice in the shelf from when I first got back into the hobby.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I have different paints to try. The biggest problem I found with the 2X is the paint just dumps out when you barely press the sprayer. The clear did go a bit heavy. The camera did make appear a lot heavier than it was.

[@theintake8961]

​​@@Crazyscalemodels2X does come out like a garden hose. Stay back a bit more with light pumps. Again, an airbrush is the best way to go. Also, you can let the paint cure out and color sand before clear. 😎👍

[@cannotcostsmorethancan]

Excellent vid my guy , new sub , just discovering yt channels back into building fter over 20 years . I used the the 2x blue slight gloss to it , man , that paint reacted with my amt kenworth body without primer nd the '63 galaxie i used the flat white and the sky blue ish , the flat and primner worked excellent but this blue , guy , thist uck beat me up haha almost tapped out nd just lued it together like your friends in hool with like a whole box of parts left over and an empty tube of testors glue hahah . anyways , the blue , even after in front of heaters spaced away , still is tacky and fingerprinty , the '63 though , turned out awesome . I was actually afterK rylon but could not find one single can in the town am nearest too after a road trip . I know the actual rustoleum primers dry good d adhere but my go to would be the krylons . I had hoped as the can says dry in minutes but like Isaidth blue did not dry properly on my kw? It sits with the Moebiusf at deck split axle and if I grip it and actually pressure , my print would stay I'm sure . I may take the plunge on an airbrush this xt trip in to y supplier in the big city . anyways just wanted to mention and thanks for the vids and your tips eh , Ruii , Canada .

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

Is the channel called the hippie something and he sprays all his models with rattle Cairns and then uses floor polish as a clear. Cheers Graham

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

Just looked channel is Hpiguys Workshop.

[@chautauquawash7470]

Use rust oleum automotive primer not the 2x primer than hit with 2x paints and clear or it will alligator if you use 2x primer

[@andyt8846]

the 2x clear is a lacquer product as is the primer . most of the colors are enamel . in this example the color went over the primer with no problems and had relatively good results . it was the clear that killed it -golden rule of painting is no lacquer over enamel .( the 2x labeling is bad marketing by rustoleum )

[@Crazyscalemodels]

That’s kinda the point. I used the same “product line” and had issues. I’m an airbrush user and spray lacquer paints almost solely. Just doing tests and examples to maybe help a new person or someone looking to change what they use.

[@michaelkeogh8454]

I still prefer the regular Rust-Oleum, not the 2X. It is much easier to use because it is just paint, no built-in primer.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I got some regular to test also

[@michaelkeogh8454]

​​@@CrazyscalemodelsThe regular Rust-Oleum takes days to fully cure. I spray a few light coats in one session letting it level out on its own. The sniff test helps me determine if the paint is fully cured.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@@michaelkeogh8454 thanks for the heads up. I’ll see what’s the can says too.

[@MrSeniorJR]

So…what I’ve gotten from the video, and the comments from the rustoleum apologists on the Luka Cee page is that this paint is like the Gremlins. Works great if you follow all the rules to using it…. Seems a bit labor intensive. To labor intensive to make it worth my time….

[@mynameisjim48]

Use the rustolium AUTOMOTIVE primer

[@Crazyscalemodels]

This was a test of using all 3 from the same product line. I have other test ls coming up and am using the automotive primer.

[@davesans8536]

I used Rustoleum once it melted the plastic on the car roof I never used it on plastic again

[@Weasel3DE]

Hardware paint .... hardware. Craft paint.... crafts. Acrylic paint... canvas etc. Now we are replicating cars, trucks etc. What is used to paint those? Enamel, lacquer or base/clear products. Think you figured out what I use by now. So use what I you want I want to build better....

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I use lacquer thru an airbrush. I was just testing the paint that gets everyone up in arms on Facebook. This not my normal paint and never will be. Lol

[@Weasel3DE]

@Crazyscalemodels I know you don't use hardware paint this is a test. My point models are replicas so shouldn't paint that is sprayed on at factory or body shop be used in building? Great subject I'm glad you're doing it....

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@ i agree. When I started using an airbrush I was using acrylics and man is cleaning an airbrush a challenge and the results were decent. Since I switched to lacquer the results are amazing and I can fully clean the airbrush in under 5 minutes. And I can get any oem or aftermarket color on the market.

[@JimFlanagan4206]

Using that paint is hit and miss. I have to use rattle cans because I can only paint in my garage. I have no place to set up an airbrush. I wish I had a basement 😢

[@joemoore4027]

I do not understand why people spend $30 bucks for a car kit and spray it with industrial Home Depot rattle cans ?

[@JHartModelworks]

By the time you have bought 10 cans of paint you have paid for a descent starter airbrush setup. The airbrush gives so much more control. It just isn't worth it to me. Especially after you have to strip failed paint over and over.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Yes. I’m doing these tests to show what can happen even if you’re not new to modeling and painting. I regularly use lacquer paints and 2K through 3 different iwata brushes and 3 gaahleri brushes depending on need. I will not use any spray can paint unless it’s Tamiya or Mr hobby on rare occasions.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

And the finish you get using an airbrush and the correct scaled paints is far better.

[@JHartModelworks]

@@Crazyscalemodels absolutely.

[@alanr4863]

Alsome video

[@dmgscalemodels2825]

Rust Oleum sprays are inconsistent, and the fact that they took over Testors pains, and eliminating 2/3 of them, shows they are not serious about hobbies such as Model Cars! They take forever to dry and spatter out of the can, and when they DO finally dry, they do not sand so well

[@robertmunoz7543]

Rattle can special?😳 Primer leaves nice finish,clear is a tad pebbly!🙄 Jman

[@Crazyscalemodels]

Just testing. I airbrush 99% of time.

[@modelspeedshop]

That's kind of derogatory. I'm a cabinet builder by trade and there's definitely a big difference between spray paint and furniture paint. Rust-Oleum is not furniture paint. Says right on the can paint almost anything including metal wood and plastic. I've built all sorts of different furniture also canopy daybeds, (featured in better homes and gardens magazine BTW) outdoor kitchens hand built rocking chairs even custom wood fencing I never once ever have I ever sprayed a piece of furniture with Rust-Oleum.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

I probably should have specified garden furniture like what’s pictured on the can. Sorry

[@modelspeedshop]

@@Crazyscalemodels My apologies I didn't mean to sound angry. I've had the same problems that you have with Rust-Oleum paints and it seems to be just because of different combinations. I've had the gray primer do that to me when I spray color over top of it. I've also had the clear ruin the paint after it was just fine. The problem seems to be differences in mixtures, different assembly processes and facilities. In other words, the paints don't jive with each other because of their mixture differences. It's a pretty common thing with Rust-Oleum but most of us who use spray paint have to keep buying Rust-Oleum and Krylon because we can't afford the high priced model paints.

[@moparnut6286]

Mike the furniture paint name comes from the fact that rustolem was and still is targeted towards patio furniture both metal and plastic main reason people call it furniture paint then add to all the women in the 90s and 2000s using it in drawers and bedroom furniture.... Rustolem has nothing to do with real high end furniture building/refinishing like the work you did..as all the DIY furniture is just a fad/Hobby..not a true professional art like furniture building and refinishing.

[@Crazyscalemodels]

@modelspeedshop and I didn’t intend to sound rude. But the test just goes to show that these paints can be unpredictable even when you think you’re doing the right thing by using all the same line of paints. I don’t care what others use as long as they are happy and it works for them. Just decided to start testing and showing results to maybe help someone out.

[@modelspeedshop]

@moparnut6286 Right that's basically what I'm saying and it's just a hobby paint for projects it's not actual stuff you would use to paint furniture but I get it I understand why he said that because like he said they show right on the can that's what you use it for I understand man I wasn't trying to be angry at anybody. I'm just saying it's a hobby paint it's not perfect.