How To Paint Scale Models With Cheap Spray Can Paints, No Airbrush Needed

[@UncleScorch]

Proving once again why this is my favorite modeling channel. People - you don’t have to drive yourself crazy to produce a beautiful model - and better yet actually enjoy the process. Great video, Chris!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Jim! It's all about fun and showing newcomers and seasoned vets that models do not have to be expensive or stressful to get good results!

[@MrGardman]

I know this is an older video but I really like the paint tips. I am just getting ready to retire and get back into the hobby.

[@hpiguy]

You can do it!

[@fenderguy5865]

Me too. Loved building when I was a kid. Hopefully, I can once again get that great feeling that I used to get.

[@mikedee9202]

You definitely will if you haven't already...lol

[@erichb4021]

I always use Primer aswell. But some Rust-Oleum paint,s have the primer in it! But I use the same method as you and they come out great.

[@ronroberts2453]

EXCELLENT! This is right on point, my son and I were just today dicussing our recent use of these paints. I have been building model cars since 1961, and never concitered heating the subject before applying the gloss paint! Never to old to learn, the modeling community is so cool!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Ron, we all pick up stuff no matter how long we've been doing it.

[@rickbeam2325]

I've Always had tried to make certain my model body's n paint were at Least 75 Degrees Feirenheight but 85-95 is better w Paint at ,85-90 too. The paint is thinner Sprays better hot. Propellant lasts longer n small special model paint cans go fully empty.. I'm using Krylons Various a Flat Black paint/Primer combo, Short Cuts Flat White (,as light color primer) short cuts Gloss as Base under the Krylon Glitter Blasts for Brilliant stunning Low Rider type flashy Metallics n Krylon Glitter Shimmer paints It goes on super nice n thin with pretty fast dry times too ! Lots cheaper than special model car spray cans $5-6. ,,? You get 4-6X as much paint w Krylong bigger cans n the minis are ,$3.29 vs $5-6 same amount of paint

[@martin.B777]

@@hpiguy Great video/tutorial, thank you! I'm about to receive a vintage rocket model, which is missing white color on a few smaller sports. Should I use the white primer and the white coat?

[@vaindioux]

Best video ever. I can now build 2 models for the time i spent on 1. Some folks have 72 steps to paint, spend $750 per model. This is the way to go! Thxs

[@tombrewsaugh1399]

I'm 69 yo and retired haven't built a model in decades but have been collecting some I've liked over the years. Now is my time to get back to the hobby and this is a great finish for what I have in mind. I will be converting many of my cars for road racing and they will not require a show finish.

[@hpiguy]

Go for it!

[@chrisC052]

Some modelers say "rattle cans" are crap, well guess who's wrong. The results speak for themselves. I really enjoyed this behind the scenes video. Yes I also use cans, and i do warm them up in water too. The hard thing for mr is walking away! I always want to look at my work, but your right just walk away on leave it alone. Great video and great tips, thanks again Chris!

[@hpiguy]

I don't have too many issues, but folks like what they like. Thanks Chris!

[@joepedroza4707]

U sound down to earth. Love all your videos. You make the painting process easy without boring us with all the other tips. Thank you sir.

[@caseyrupert7611]

I discovered your channel a month or two ago. The heat gun idea is brilliant! I have to paint in my unheated garage. I painted a 65 Plymouth today in chilly northern Indiana and the paint came out beautifully! Thanks for the the tips and tricks. I love modeling again!

[@hpiguy]

Much appreciated! facebook.com/hpiguysworkshop

[@KenKopper]

Excellent. I'm just now starting model kit building. Thanks to videos like this and others on KZbin I feel confident.

[@hpiguy]

Glad I could help!

[@megamanx2006]

I'm totally new to this art... I just bought my very first model Honda Civic SI 1:25 from Revell. I bought my very first Testors Spray Enamel 1246, my very first Testors plastic cement and my very first modeling knife. I loved every single second of your video. I just applied the cement to the white outer parts and I'll be washing it as you advised because it makes a lot of sense. I'll watch all your videos, thanks a thousand!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for the nice words and for watching!

[@no-or-man7000]

Thanks for the great tips and for informing me that I can paint it any old way I want to because it's mine and there is no wrong way. Much appreciated.

[@hpiguy]

That's right, if you like it, that is all that matters. Build for you, not the snobs on the internet.

[@MajorDisappointmentModels]

Now I see what I'm doing WRONG! I need to heat the body first. I have a dehydrator that I modified for drying. Now I will Preheat the bodies. Thanks Chris!!!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Clay! The heat helps the paint flow and even out before it dries.

[@BennyCFD]

Just use a cheap hair dryer. Not only can it heat your model but as a dryer so speed up the drying of acrylic paint and much cheaper than a dehydrator.

[@MajorDisappointmentModels]

@@BennyCFD I have one of those too. The dehydrator was $5 at Goodwill.

[@randytaylor1258]

Chris, as I've mentioned several times, you are the king of the rattle can. 😎

[@canneng6520]

I like this dude. His energy just makes watching these videos entertaining and they are very informative! Thanks for this!

[@hpiguy]

I appreciate that!

[@CHixon]

That's how I painted my models in the early '70's. Still use it sometimes when the color is right. Never used primer. These models' paint jobs still look fine like they did when I first painted them. I still wear old t-shirts from back then too. Holes and all. My heat gun is a $2 model from Goodwill.

[@mattfarahsmillionmilelexus]

Great tutorial. The only thing I would add is when mixing brands of primer, paint, and clear, it's a good idea to test for reactivity to make sure that they all get along with each other and don't wrinkle or craze. I use white styrene plastic spoons, available at any grocery store for next to nothing, AKA the famous-in-the-modeling-world "spoon test".

[@hpiguy]

Most of the Rustoleum stuff is plastic safe and if you stick brand to brand there is rarely a problem. Issues come up when you apply a reactive layer above a more neutral layer, you are correct. If you try to apply a hot lacquer over an enamel you're going to have a bad day.

[@hpiguy]

Anything that has a strong lacquer base will react poorly with plastic and anything under it. Automotive paints can work great but they must be checked on scrap plastics first and a great primer coat is a must. Cheap paints, as shown in this video, have low volatility and rarely react poorly since they are not strong.

[@jmmcdon25]

Thank you for always keeping it simple and fun!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching John!

[@deputy3690]

Love this channel! Probably my favorite for model cars.

[@hpiguy]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@cushingpushing]

This was very informative, thank you for making this video. Your models always turn out with a beautiful shine.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks man!

[@barrywise2773]

Thanks. Appreciate your knowledge and enthusiasm . I am a 54 year old beginner .

[@hpiguy]

Rock on!

[@meisenhu2958]

I personally prefer Krylon's spray paint over Rustoleum's. Rustoleum's paint is a bit too thick and tends to shoot out too much which covers up small details. You can still get a super glossy and sweet paint job but it's a bit hard for beginners to get it right. Krylon on the other hand is more forgiving, finer and also dries faster. The best spraypaint I've tried by far is Duplicolor's automotive touch up cans, it's very fine lacquer paint and dries to a nice and hard glossy finish. Plus it's relatively cheap and you can find them in very much every automotive supply stores.

[@gtyellojacket]

Meisen, are you using Krylon Fusion or Krylon Colormaxx, and are you using Krylon Colormaxx primer beforehand?

[@TotemoGaijin]

Have you tried duplicolor's metalcast before? Thinking about trying that out on a kit.

[@ThreeDaysOfDan]

@@gtyellojacket colormaxx , fusion is more like Rustoleum

[@clashface]

Duplicolour is 50$ in India 💀 that's expensive

[@richiesspeedshop82]

And you can also find manufacture specific colors with duplicolor as well

[@corkcamden9878]

Good, common sense approach. Very modest and approachable. All-around good advice.

[@hpiguy]

Glad you think so!

[@mikecernick5575]

I like your techniques because that’s how I roll . I like when the model doesn’t exceed the price of the products you apply on it . Time and patience will allow you near perfection over taking more steps . Great video never decided to degrease before but I’ll try it. Thanks very much keep up the hobby

[@hpiguy]

Thank you for spending some of your day on my channel!

[@bernie472]

Good video! I use the same exact paint you use, however I learned the hard way that when you get a primer+paint mix, you REALLY have to shake the can good, and test it on something first, or it might come out bubbly, too thick, and rigid. Make sure, (at least I learned) to make sure the paint comes out of the can nice and smooth before painting the car, or what ever your painting. Again, great simple steps you showed!

[@hpiguy]

Good to know!

[@Wolfie66]

Awesome! A great "regular guy" post by a model builder! Thank you so much! I am just getting back into building model cars after 40+ years. I rattle canned my cars back then and they looked great! I used to sand the primer though.

[@hpiguy]

Glad to help!

[@GrotrianSeiler]

Great tips. No one makes it look this simple. I will try this technique before buying a whole airbrush setup. Why do all hobbies have to be so expensive? Thanks for the video.

[@raquaro1]

Fascinating. I cannot even get model paint to work and here you are with Rustoleum! I will try this for sure! Thanks!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching!

[@harrisonjackson2765]

I want to be on your level.i don't know you but I really look up to your work,I watch you station EVERYDAY Please keep them coming,if you can give me all the advice you can..I'm a HUGE FAN and will keep watching your channel to I'mprove myself..so please,help me so I can help myself. Thank you ,Jackson

[@wwkdiecastmore5647]

Thanks for the video Chris, I started using an airbrush a few years back, through trial and error I finally got it down to where it don't turn out to be a car wreck, lol. But, in the summer months, I go back to my rattle cans! Your demo was spot on!!…..Bill

[@hpiguy]

Yeah I like the cans year round, but as I've shown in other builds I'll also sling an airbrush for details and custom colors.

[@oldrustycars]

Building my first model in 40 years, the AMT International 4070A. May have gotten in over my head. However, I followed your instructions here, same brand of paint, but I used gray primer so it would show up better on white plastic. Waiting for the color to dry now, I may have a bit of orange peel. Thank you for the very informative videos.

[@karensylvia9423]

Wow, beautiful work my friend !

[@jamiesale9460]

Just watched this for the second time. For the past 18 months I've been using this technique and these paints and the regular non-2X colors over 2X primer. I only use the expensive small cans if there is a color issue. And it works well on sailing ships. I heartily recommend it.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks James!

[@timstuper]

I just started watching your channel and recently got back into the hobby. I love how simple and great your techniques are!!. I am also subscribed to all the quote show end builders. But I find there techniques are complicated and expensive!! I love that you all ways say build the model for you not other people!! Keep up the great work!!

[@dominikw8820]

Yes, it is easy - I'm a can-guy since i'm builing models. Keep the can warm and it works. Agreed all you said - thanks for this tutorial!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching!

[@ctwalston1565]

It is critical that you choose a Plastic Compatble primer and paint!! Great tips and love your videos!

[@Spencer1984]

I love cheap paints and hate airbrushing, so this is right up my alley. Nice tutorial!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@jamiesale9460]

I made another visit to this. I have used the Rustoleum paints - the 2X and twice I covered the primer with the regular Rustoleum. The plastic did not craze and although it took days to dry the result is fine - the Hunter Green for the Raider ship hull. I rarely use the other model paints except for colors I cannot find in Rustoleum. I have also used the cheap acrylics thoroughly thinned with considerable success. Great ideas!~

[@hpiguy]

Glad it works for you!

[@johnchester7625]

I learned a lot from this short video. Thanks. I'm into model railways and i always need a shiny coat onto which i apply transfers; after that i apply a matt or satin coat . Thanks again

[@shawnconnolly6708]

Thank you for another model tips. I will try your method. Keep building them an I will keep watching them.👍. I don't have a booth so I use a cardboard box that I spray with water to keep any dust down and a garbage bag for the entrance, spray the bag down on side that faces into box also. It might be crewed but it works for me. Dust is a model KILLER as we all know. Happy painting.😎.

[@hpiguy]

Whatever works for you is great!

[@KyleDaSloth]

That car's paint is gorgeous! I did a Nissan 300zx with Rust-Oleum 2x and it came out kinda gritty and I always wondered why. After your text in screen suggested that the problem was the body was too cold, I thought about it and sure enough I painted it in February or March plus I didn't warm the paint, just straight up shook it and shot it. On the flip side of things, I did a '72 Nova with R2x during the summer (no prep) and it came out alot better than the Nissan. Your video told me what I did wrong with the nissan and how to prevent doing it again in the future. Thanks sooo much for this valuable information!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks man, glad it helped!

[@JohnJohnson-qg2ub]

wow Chirs u r the man!! i never use gloss or primer, now i know the trick to a nice paint job!!! thanks u so much bro.im starting my Mack c. liner tommrow and I'm going to knock it out of the park with u tips. THANKS and have a bless day.👍👍

[@hpiguy]

Thank you John, I'm sure it will turn out well.

[@robertmann7277]

Thanks for the video- this shows that you don't need expensive stuff to get the job done

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@jamesblyth2703]

Thank you for saving me a fortune. I am in the process of building Revell's 1/72 scale Gato class submarine. It is almost 5 feet long. If I had to use those thimble sized bottles of model paint I would go broke. The hull is almost entirely semi-gloss black, I scored a can of Rustoleum 2X satin black at my local Walmart. Did a test shot on some sheet styrene and it's going to be prefect. Thanks again.

[@hpiguy]

Very cool James! It's an enamel so be careful with the materials you use to weather it. Once dry you can weather it with acrylics and should not have an issue.

[@jamesblyth2703]

@@hpiguy No problem model is not meant to be weathered. My intent is to build it as a pristine display model in a glass case, something like what an Admiral would have on display in his office.

[@hpiguy]

Very cool, enjoy!

[@brianp2402]

Thanks for all of your videos. I just got into model building and watching a guy that does high quality builds without all of the tediousness is a huge help. Anyways I wanted to ask if you do any sanding to make the primer stick to the parts?

[@RDMash]

Been watching your videos for quite a while and Thanks for another superb Video!! And Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge with the Novice model builders. Rich

[@hpiguy]

My pleasure!

[@bevh85]

Love this video! I've always wondered how you got nice finishes on your models without using an airbrush. Also thanks for the tips about warming the paint and bodies in the winter. I live in a colder area as well and kind of kept my model building to the warmer months because I couldn't get as nice of a finish in the cold.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@randomsucks2444]

Been building a long time. Gave airbrush to my son. I prefer spray can. You have a great system. Btw that paint booth is awesome. I've been using it for awhile.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks 👍

[@mgbrown8765]

The Rustoleum 2X paint is excellent for helping make more realistic models. Different shades and textures add depth and interest. When I checked last R 2X has 6 different types of black and many other "dark" colors that are near-black. Using combinations of gloss, semi-gloss, flat, satin, etc on chassis parts yields amazing results!

[@hpiguy]

Works well for me!

[@richardjohnholdenra3492]

I'm a spray can modeller also, can't beat it. Well done. 1 thing I notice is white Blooming using the clear lacquer

[@timklein3962]

Excellent video; great work good enough for any modeler !

[@TexanInVirginia]

Thanks for the tutorial! It's very helpful for a novice like me. One question... would Dawn dish soap work as a good way to get grease off of models?

[@hpiguy]

Yes, very much so.

[@larmar]

Hi Chris times have really changed , you refer to cheap paint cans. today in 2023 in my area the paint cans you refer to are $10 - 12. Depending where you buy. And in Canada where I live a model will cost $40 - $60. A heavy hauler will cost $80 +. Times have changed but still a great hobby. In the 60s I used to buy Airfix aircraft models for .049 CENTS. My allowance was 50 cents a week. Great channel you have!

[@MarkMeadows90]

I love using Tamiya spray lacquers. They are bit pricey, but the spraying process is forgiving straight from the rattle can. They come in awesome color and cover well. I sometimes don't even use a primer and paint over bare plastic to be daring. I've had exceptional results from not using primer on white molded kits. Another brand I love using is Dupli-Color Perfect Match spray paints. They thinned their line up of colors over the years to make way for more modern colors. I've seen a few custom style colors like Bahama Blue, a GM color, Intense Blue Pearl, a few bright reds, yellows, Orange Mist from Nissan, and a few pearl white. They are around $10 a can, but can be used to paint at least 2 or 3 model car bodies and parts. My technique for a glossier shine is to color sand and clear coat sand the bodies after the paint has cured and "gassed out". Using a polishing kit from Micro-Mesh, start off using 3200 or 4000 grit depending on how much orange peel the finish has and work your way up to 12000 grit for final polishing. Come back with some car polish and wax and you're all set. Of course you have to be careful as to not burn through the paint and clear coat. It's always upsetting ruining a perfect paint job when you polish too hard!

[@stevenbongiorno9277]

Thanks for all your support. It’s just that it’s getting harder to find model paint. I’m. Gonna have to mail order and wait. Thanks again!

[@railmaster.7752]

Nice to see that the same guys are building the same cars now as in the 70s and 80s!

[@ModelCarMinion]

Great tutorial Chris, i can't use spray cans indoors so I use the garage in the warmer weather. I plan to do one build using Model Master lacquer spray some day, but using the rattle cans you don't have to worry about mixing the paint and thinner and setting the air pressure for an airbrush, it is a much faster system.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching!

[@plumerjr]

Awesome tutorial. Getting a good paint job has been my biggest headache. I'll give this stuff a try on my next project.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Robert!

[@Harjaapsingh11]

does a hair dryer work as a heat gun?

[@hpiguy]

Sure, they are just much louder and blow harder so they can get annoying. But they work fine.

[@Tatooinedragracer]

I'm so glad I found your channel. I've learned a lot from this video and your build videos.

[@hpiguy]

Welcome aboard!

[@maddmikesmotorsports8909]

Great video's sir. I;m gwtting back into model car building. I was wondering about spray paint's. Good/bad paint's.

[@michaelwreese2167]

Nice suggestion on the rust-oleum or whatever. Since I do not have the benefit of a basement let alone heated, I paint in the garage and it gets cold... down to 40 degrees or so. To heat for painting, I use either a 500-watt or 250-watt quartz work light (depends on the ambient). It heats up the general area to 70-80 degrees in 15-20 minutes. Also, booth temperature control by moving the light near or farther away is really nice (warms me too).

[@robertsymalla1071]

Helped me out a lot. Thanks! I've learned a lot by watching your videos! Keep up the work! The model also looks great.

[@nancyhawn8549]

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. My friend got me a model kit and it's my first one so I didn't want to spend a fortune on painting it as I will probably not be doing more kits (it will be a prop for a diorama), 🤗

[@hpiguy]

Enjoy!

[@dannymontoya1235]

You made that look easy. I always over work it and slop it up. Thanks man

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Danny! When in doubt, apply less paint. And don't hold it too close. At least a foot away.

[@frankderryberry1412]

Too little ok. Too much not ok.

[@StratBurst92]

Great, same way that I have been doing them. One thing I found out the hard way is never use clear on a model painted white, eventually. The white will turn a yellowish color.

[@shanewaterman4125]

The tip about heating the paint can applies to almost anything that comes in an aerosol. I do the same with my shaving gel! Makes the contents flow more easily (basically the effect of temperature on viscosity) and activates the propellant properly so you get every ounce out of the can!

[@maryfiltz800]

Thanks for giving us an inexpensive way to do the paint jobs. Looks great.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@JLanc1982]

Awesome video! I have not built a car model in years, I like using the Rattle-Can factory touch up paints from the local auto part store. I’ve painted everything from bikes to models with it!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Joseph!

[@supercat380]

Nice presentation, explanation and guidance to spraying models with conventional spray cans.❤❤❤

[@darren6441]

That looks pretty darn good thanks for putting that out there and from Once Consin guy to another I hope you had a good fourth

[@JohnHill-qo3hb]

In 2020, in Canada, each of those cans sell for the same price, a very economical $8.99 plus 13% sales tax; total $30.74. Great tutorial, thank you.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for the info!

[@condomssold77]

Thank you for this fantastic video, I’m a first time model maker of this kind , I usually do die cast snap togethers but I wanted something more challenging but was unsure of the painting method because I thought to have a good paint job you had to use a paint brush

[@hpiguy]

Glad you liked it!

[@craigbetts1586]

excellent video and tips on how you paint, I stopped doing airbrushing 15 years ago and just use cans....never thought about heating the bodies, I also put the cans in warm water before using and the cleaning of the parts is a must

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Craig!

[@jeffallen5871]

Thank you for this! I'm an avid follower of your channel, and I've tried to replicate your finishes with not-so-great results, so all this helps. Thank you again sir!

[@BL-cc1vm]

Thank you so much for this video I just got a battleship and i always dread the painting of models im just not that good at it yet. I can't afford an airbrush at the moment. I don't really see the need for one after watching this. And that paint is cheaper than the Model spray paints that are 3oz! Those paint techniques are awesome and I'm feeling more confident now after watching this. I hit the subscribe!

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching!

[@DiceZer0]

Thanks for this, I been thinking buyin an Airbrush... but they are a bit pricey, this DEFINITELY helps me decide to stay rattlecan, which is more cost effective.

[@hpiguy]

You van get nice airbrushes for cheap and a cheap compressor from harbor freight. I use the ones I have, but for cars spray cans work pretty slick as well.

[@davelawday6609]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and tips... it's so appreciated.. kind regards Dave 😁👍👍👍

[@Dnyce261]

I like how you have the 'nod' to the Earl Schieb ad. I had my first car painted there. Decent job. I'm the same way on my paint jobs, it doesn't need to be showroom perfect, if it's decent then I'm happy with it. I do like how yours turned out, nice job.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for noticing the Earl Scheib bit!

[@Eric-pj9lk]

As im new to this i also spray my models with spray paint. Can you recommend a spray paint booth fan to be used ? D0 i need an exploding proof fan? PLease help!!!!

[@tomlappin9657]

Excellent " How 2 Video " I'm going to invest in a paint booth like the one shown here !! Lots of great ideas you're showing here,..going to apply these ideas to what I have been doing ..prep is key !! Thanks for you're great how to videos !! From Michigan / Tom ( great humour too )

[@hpiguy]

Thanks for watching Tom!

[@emulatorretro]

I found an paint shop here in Janesville that can make any color you want in a rattle can. Wal Mart has some interesting colors as well.

[@markandrews200]

I have had Future yellow after a couple of years. Great video!!!

[@fredscott413]

Can I glue a model after painting?

[@hpiguy]

Yes

[@chrisnelson3144]

Thanks for the tips. I watched this right before my last build. Heating the can made such a huge difference.

[@hpiguy]

Glad it helped Chris!

[@johnclemans7802]

What I do after the paint is warmed up, wrap it in a heating pad to keep it warm. That's if you are going to use it again or keep other cans warm. This helps atomize the paint better. Also use a tack rag, found at automotive paint stores. These tack tags help pick up any dust that may get on the body before spraying.The tack rag can be used over and over, store it in a Ziploc Hope this helps too! Nice builds!!

[@the-trojan]

Great video! Been thinking about buying an air brush set up but will hold off and givethe rattle cans a try.

[@glenbr1]

Geday Chris, thank you for your demo on "How To Paint Scale With Cheap Spray Can Paint" I found it most informative.I found Rustoleum in Australia at a hard ware store called Bunnings warehouse @ $12.55. A AMT Model Car costs about $55.95, this makes this rather expensive, but worth it for the finish you get.

[@hpiguy]

Holy cow, those are high prices.

[@glenbr1]

Well you are bloody well right about that Mate, I think it has something to do with the U.S and Australia dollar.

[@csjames69]

I am seeing more and more comments on a Facebook modeling page asking what is the best compressor, airbrush by those new to the hobby. I’ve been making models for close to fifty years and like you, I use rattle cans all the time to paint the body. I do have an airbrush but only use it for window trims and it’s not all the time.

[@hpiguy]

Many people get convinced that they 'need' an airbrush and all that stuff to build models and enjoy themselves. It's simply not true. A person can enjoy the hobby and create nice models without ever owning one (I own three BTW so I am not against them at all) I'm not here to convince anyone that they do or do not need anything, or that one way is better than the others. I never say "Do it this way, do not do it that way" or "That way is bad, only do things my way". As I always say, I build for me my way and show others how I get it done. It's up to each person to decide how they like to make their models. Thanks!

[@danielgilligan2210]

Chris, Can you please share the “Props” you use to hold your models while painting them and where to get them? How do you clean them when you’re finished spraying.

[@hpiguy]

They are Tamiya paint stands. I don't bother cleaning them. Two kits per week, many years on the stands and still no need to clean the paint off them.

[@charlespalavros6952]

I use the same thing since watching your show , Thank you

[@garyparker2969]

THAT'S AWESOME Chris, I'll Have to Give it a Go and I Have That Kit Staring at Me From My Stash AND The Beautiful Seaside Blue + The Clear Coat 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗. Thanks For Sharing n Have a Blessed Week Sir.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Gary!

[@williamaviles2647]

This is just what I want to see. Now I must find these paint cans. Enamel takes to long to dry. Thanks for the advice. 👍

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@philbenza6380]

The heat made all the difference, and the floor wax finish knocked it out of the ballpark! I did the Revell Isetta bubble car. Krylon Sweet cream roof and Krylon Ivy Green sides and front door.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks Phil, that's a cool kit that Isetta!

[@bitrexgm]

I tried this on a box car model. I then spent some time Googling "How to strip spray paint from plastic model." I think I'd better practice on some plastic cups or something first :)

[@michaelreece458]

Very nice! And factory paint jobs back in the day were painted on the line by hand, no robots and may have had a few imperfections as they rolled off the assembly line...gave them a bit of individual character.

[@hpiguy]

Thanks!

[@markkettelhut191]

Really enjoying the build vids and was glad to find this paint vid this morning. One thing I've been wondering...you paint parts on the tree... when you cut 'em off... isn't there small unpainted areas on the parts? How do you deal with that? Edit...oops...I see answered earlier 👍

[@rosemaryr.long-morgan9704]

I don't know if Rustoleum's Specialty Primer for Plastics was already out when You made this video, but have You used it and do You recommend it or is the one used in this video sufficient. Would I still light sand between coats and before base coat of paint thanks. Ps I'm on a budget & would be hand brushing with Deco Art Acrylic. Thanks for the tips.

[@shawntripp9380]

Chris do you do the same procedures when painting other parts for the model ? Like the engine or seats or chassis? Do you have to wait 2 hours between coats ?

[@thomaswanning3127]

Great video and sense of humor.

[@robertmorris2573]

Hi HPIguys. Question. When your painting, and you have one color for a top coat. But you want a two tone paint job with the same color (like orange). Would paint one part of the body with black primer. Then mask it off where you want it then use the white primer on the other part. So when you paint it it would give you the two tone light/dark paint job ? Haven’t built anything thing in 10 years. Have an old ford truck I would like to paint and build. Thank you.

[@hpiguy]

On a spray can two tone, like I did for the 55 Chevy, I just used white primer for the entire model. The dark primer, dark paint is a loose rule. It's not a hard and fast rule that must be followed at all times. On a very thin paint, if you two toned the primer you may see the color shift using the exact same color, but only if you applied the top coats thin. Something like trying to lightly tint the exact same color using a darker coat under the color that is not all that easy to do with spray cans.

[@rickbeam2325]

I use a T Shooting on the plastic Pie trays that pies from Grocery Stores come in I shoot Flat black Stripe, Gray next to that n White Next to that Move Down ,,"1 1/2" mask Straight across all then spray 1 rer Color across all 3. Then cover those w plastic n paint stripe other Color over all ,3 again Then remove plastic n go to bright sun light n look at 6 different Shades On Trick Fades I'll use White/Silver/Gold/Copper/Charcoal metallic n Flat black under n Go over all with 1 too color after pattern is laid

[@robertmorris2573]

Thanks a lot. I think I understand. When I get back on my feet I’ll give it a try.

[@prrfan59]

Chris can you do a video on how you use acrylic craft paints in your modeling

[@rickbeam2325]

Robert Morris I realize you addressed Queetion to Chris however as Advanced n Semi Master model car builder Personally do Test Paint Shoots of the Primers n mid Coats I intend to use. For Example My Current build is AMTs nice 41 Plymouth Coupe I'll be Doing it Tu-Toned but pretty Good Variance of Blues ... However 4 Different Blue paints will be involved too... So I'll be Starting by Test Shoot as Follows to Determine Which primer Color to use under each of my 2 initial blue color coats I use a Black Plastic pie bottom Container ... At Grocery Dyores whole pies are in plastic 2 part containers clear top n black lower.. I wash n prep the lower Black section as a Paint tester... By placing it Faced Down (Inside side Down on table ). It's Domed n Varied Contours is perfect for this So I now Mask off Areas in Stripes I shoot a Flat Black Primer one Flat Gray Primer One And White Primer one So I'll have at least one Stripe of Each color to Shoot over I make my Stripes 1"+ in width 1 1/4-1 1/2" wide My initial 2 Blues are Kryllon Short Cuts "Turquoise and Ocean Blue So across the ,3 sttipes primer. I'll mask a Control stripe to keep n Show primer after as test guide Next I mask off a 3/4' wide Strip across all 3 Colors then Shoot the lighter of 2 Colors over that... Hence it will give me 3 different Shades of that blue. To choose from as base Color hue Now I Mask off Another Stripe over primer set for the Ocean Blue Darker Color This will give me 3 shades of Turquoise and 3 shades of ocean Blue For my Tu-Toned Main color Base Over Both the Turquoise and the Ocean Blues. Which are ordinary Gloss Enamels (non metallics) I'll be Applying Krylons "Glitter Blast" in 2 ultra thin top Coats For over the Turquoise I've Selected Sapphire Blue Metallic" Over the Ocean Blue 'Twillight Blue Fark metallic w Red flake n dark blue Flake Theis will yeild 3 light Blues n 3 darker blues But the primer Base Color affects both blues Sprayed over it Hence Test shot on pie plate. To look at on bright Sun light. This is how I decide primer Color

[@superdave8520]

Chris I love watching your builds, and I appreciate this tip. I am new to the hobby on my first build. I was looking at my local walmart and all I could find is primer plus paint. Will I get the same effect or do I need to make sure it is straight primer and just paint? Thanks.