Testing, Wiring, Taco Sentry Zone Valve! How it Works, Comparison, Explained!

This HVAC Training Video goes over the High-Efficiency Taco Sentry Zone Valve. I go over installation practices, head removal, wiring, amp draw, connection to a zone control relay system, operation, and comparison with the older taco 3 wire 571 zone valve. Proper knowledge of applications and operation leads to better troubleshooting procedures. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVAC Tech while doing this as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Here is the link for the Taco Sentry Zone Valve Used in the Video- www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-Z075C...
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⚠️ Disclaimer:
Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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#hvacr #hvacr #hvactrainingvideos #hvactraining #hvactraining101 #acservice #acservicetech #taco #switchingrelay #control #controlpanel #wire #wiring #circulator #pump
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[@acservicetechchannel]

Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Links in the Description Section)

[@jimzeidler3829]

Wish I had a buck for every Taco 571 zone valve I installed. Replaced countless heads, also. Great video.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Ha, yup, thanks Jim!

[@Eldeibi84]

Excellent video

[@HANDYMANDAN51]

Great video, Would love to see more on this theme

[@acservicetechchannel]

There are two more zone valve videos in this playlist, thanks! -- kzbin.info/aero/PLxnHR5_D2ojyqNsDijbm_nHH-LeyrNgVD

[@lancerudy9934]

Very nice video! Thanks

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Lance!

[@stevengilber1153]

Nice stuff!!!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Steven Gilber!

[@whitesheatingairappliancer7101]

nice video thank you.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Ron!

[@vr6muppet]

Great video, keeping things simple and understandable. I have a question about my setup. I picked up 3 of the sentry valves and a zvc404-4 controller to replace an older automag setup in my house. Currently my pump is hooked to the boiler so that when the boiler is running the pump is too. Should I wire the pump to the controller, or leave it as is?

[@codysieverts647]

Your meter was working properly when measuring the amp draw during a call to open the valve. The Sentry valve "pulses" power to maintain the charge in the capacitor, hence the intermittent zero to 0.13 - 0.22 amp readings. This adds to the energy saving features of the unit.

[@geojor]

thanks for this ...

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Pei Broker!

[@l.a.m7645]

So the end switch wires go to T&T on the triple aquastat?

[@erinhenry1144]

how do you wire 2 of the sentry valves to the board and back to boiler? i have the jumper on zone 1 and all 4 wires on zone 2. both are always telling pump to run and always stay open.

[@jpp9876]

I love the Honeywell hydronic zone valves. They will last 30 years plus and all moving parts can be replaced without soldering in a new valve. Often the system doesn't need to be drained to service it. I may have a bias, as I am from Minnesota, where Honeywell started and became a world leader in this .

[@HVACRTECH-83]

Only the power head can be replaced without changing the whole valve. Same as all zone valves.

[@evanannunziata2859]

Does it matter which wire goes from the transformer to the w/y and the common terminal? I know with the Honeywell zone valves as long as you complete the circuit (transformer-zone valve-thermostat-back to transformer) it doesn't matter which wire you hook up, as long as the circuit is completed. Thank You!

[@tymikabates557]

I have two zone valves in my house so the Taco ZVC404 control is wired to Zone 1 and Zone 2, but there is no voltage in the control of Zone 1. Can I move the wiring to Zone 3 or 4 to see if there's any voltage and will it work the same?

[@Researcher_YouTube]

I have what appears to be the older version of this (ESP075C2-2) (12-04). Presumably 12-04 is December 2004 when our home was built. I woke up in the middle of the night sweating. It appears to close about 97% (if I look at top it is almost closed, but honestly it is hard to be certain), but the pipes were very hot. Can I just replace the top head with newer version or do I need to sweat in new valve too?

[@mark.r8900]

very informative video. but what tells the boiler/how does the boiler fires up? assuming after the valve has opened and the circulator pump has turned on. thanks.

[@acservicetechchannel]

That would be the two terminals marked "end switch" 24v comes from the aquastat, goes through the end switch, and then back to the aquastat, thanks

[@JackofAllTrades1]

Very informative, I gave you a thumbs up! I have to troubleshoot mine. I updated the thermostat on one of my zones (that almost never gets used) and noticed the other night that even though the thermostat was off, the radiators were still piping hot. I went down to the basement to find the valve still open... so I manually closed it and decided to look at it in the morning. Upon further observation, the valve will open just fine when there is a call for heat but when the thermostat is satisfied it tries to close over and over again and eventually just settles for a position that appears partially open. Any chance I threw the servo range of movement off by manually closing it? I thought for sure that some debris in the line was keeping it from closing but the valve moves freely from open to close with the valve head off. I can also manually turn it off and it can turn itself on, just not off. I’m going to switch back to my old thermostat and run some tests first to help isolate the issue.... your video has given me a good base to work off of. Thanks

[@JackofAllTrades1]

Update: For those of you who may run into a similar situation, I want to tell you what I found and how I resolved my issue. I can only assume some obstruction blocked the valve from closing the initial time, the system is rarely used so there could of been some buildup or maybe even something solid floating through the system. When I had to manually close the valve it threw off the open-close sequence a few degrees of rotation (this may be because I manually closed it while it was attempting to close.... I can’t remember due to the early morning hours this first occurred). My system has 6 zones, 1 is for the water heater which is fed from an oil burner. Testing out my valve in the closed position I got around 8 volts AC and my other side was never in OL but had just a little resistance when closed. When opened I had 23 volts ac and my resistance was even less on the second side. I am assuming my system may always have the circulation pump on due to the hot water heater or the the small resistance reading is due to something else.... it didn’t seem to effect anything and all my other zones read the same. I had to end up taking the valve head off and manually turning the valve stem to close... the half moon end of the stem will be left to right opposing the direction of the line when off and will run in the same direction as the valve when open. Anyway, I pulled the valve head off and cycled the thermostat on and off until the stem insert part on the back of the valve matches up correctly, I had to push in the the manual control lever while the servo was turning to get it to align. The issue was the servo was slightly off so it wasn’t alighting internally. Once it was aligned there was an audible “pop” sound as it seated with the servo gears. (Manually overriding takes it out of this seat). I hope this can help somebody else. Thanks again for the video

[@acservicetechchannel]

What type and model zone valve do you have?

[@JackofAllTrades1]

AC Service Tech LLC the green Taco unit in your video.

[@catfishslayer100]

I have this valve and fails about every 12 to 18 months. Does the end switch need to be hooked up? Thinking about switching to a irragation vavle but it only has 2 wires.

[@gyver471]

No third wire for new zone valve?

[@jbouchard667]

How would you power up multiple t6 pro wifi thermostats that needs a "C" if your taco zone panel just has R & W for the t stats. The zone panel i worked with had this and off to the side they had terminal spot for 24 vac and common.

[@acservicetechchannel]

This 6 zone controller actually has the c terminal as well as the r and w. If you don't have a c then all that means is that you can't use up all the zones because of the amp load on the controller. Then just take a common off of one of the two transformers, thanks

[@stevonreid458]

What happen the green lights keeps blinking

[@bobdimartino6738]

is it possible to replace the internals of the water part of the valve with a new one rather than soldering it i'm in a situation {condo}

[@bobdimartino6738]

i meant take the new parts out of the new one and put them in the old one mine is in the off position and water is leaking past the valve to the heat is always on with no voltage

[@jasoncraft2889]

I have this valve on my geo system . I have a problem with water running through the valve closes when the unit turns off but water is going through still. Is it possible that the ball vale is no good?

[@acservicetechchannel]

I am assuming that you are talking about the new sentry valve. Try taking the head off and manually shutting the valve by turning it. Maybe the plastic gears inside the valve head are not seated correctly or are worn, thanks

[@catfishslayer100]

A little late now but you can flip the valve and it should stop letting water through. Dont know how it works but it does. Mine leaks every 12 to 18 months. I flip it to save from buying a new one every year looking into using a irrigation valve.

[@stephendee7839]

24V AV or DC?

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

Ta-Ko or Ta-Co?

[@joeyf504327]

Every ball-valve manufacturer says to have the ball valve closed while soldering

[@lancerudy9934]

OL is open line!

[@acservicetechchannel]

I tend to say both, over the limit that the meter can read resistance and open line circuit, thanks

[@smwork2947]

can this valve be wired to open quickly, yet close slowly? By having pin 1 and 2 to 24 ac , and jumping pin 2 to pin 3 and pin 4 to ground??

[@acservicetechchannel]

No, they will always open at the same speed. Dont jump 3 to 4 for safety of the pump, thanks

[@smwork2947]

@@acservicetechchannel I'm using the Valve on a ground water source heat pump (geo thermal), that brings in water from our residential well and discharges to a second well. I'm hoping this valve will eliminate all the water hammer inherit in this design. My only concern is the delay in opening...not sure IF this will be problem. Thanks for your PROMPT reply, and your VERY informative video Not sure what you mean by "safety of the pump" ?

[@acservicetechchannel]

The end switch on 2 to 3 on the older style or 3 to 4 on the newer style zone valve verifies that the zone valve is open before the controller will turn on the circulating pump. You don't want the circulating pump on with the zone valve closed, thanks!

[@smwork2947]

@@acservicetechchannel Ahhh i see, but does not apply to my application. Again thanks very much

[@youcefmiki6197]

100 100

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks youcef miki!