That's Why Your Camera Settings Are WRONG

[@MarkDenneyPhoto]

🌟QUICK QUESTION: Which camera mode do you mostly use?

[@MarkDenneyPhoto]

I'll go first: Manual Mode for me

[@FitzMichael]

Manual with Loxia lens

[@nkfredrich95]

Depends on the situation: Manual for landscape\macroscape, Aperture priority for quick snaps and portraiture, Shutter priority for flash use.

[@bkc1965]

I use AV most of the time, followed by Manual Mode as a close second. But, I am starting to use FV (Canon's Flexible Value or Flexible Priority Mode) more and more. I think that if I can remember to use it, I will probably use it the most in the future. It is probably the best of both AV and M modes....extremely flexible.

[@markallemang7745]

Usually manual. Unless conditions are rapidly changing. Then either turn on auto iso or go to aperture or shutter priority depending on whether I'm more concerned with DOF or I'm wanting to show or suppress motion blur.

[@slowlyrusting4044]

I use manual mode 98% of the time, not because it's the "correct" way but because I took up photography a long time ago and manual mode is all we had. It is my natural way of thinking when it comes to photography. I understand the many benefits of allowing the modern camera to "help" but I find myself comfortably in manual mode the majority of the time.

[@georgedavall9449]

Ha Ha copying what Mark said, 😆

[@alansach8437]

Do you use a light meter, either hand held or built in the camera?

[@slowlyrusting4044]

@@alansach8437 To be honest, since I went digital, about 12 years ago, I have been using the histogram(s) and don't bother even looking at the built in meter. Sometimes if playing around with artificial lighting I will use a handheld meter.

[@veskoveskov1073]

After watching hundreds of videos on that topic I can say finally simply and completely explain topic. I like that you are down to earth. You videos are full with actual information and easy to understand. With other videos with different creators they want to show how fancy they are but at the end video you get just “crumbs” of information. Thank you again, great video

[@canyonrider493]

Mark, you are one of my top five photography educators. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your knowledge with us.

[@raamangupta3277]

Hello Mark, it's said that if u have your basics clear you will never go wrong. It's an excellent attempt to achieve that. Thanks.

[@Dom.Martel]

Never thought of creating a “workflow” for this but started to think lately of these details. Very useful, thanks!

[@scottheppel8847]

Your process is simple, but so useful. I also shoot in manual, but I also photograph a lot of birds so I normally adjust shutter speed first, then aperture, then ISO. With landscapes, aperture first.

[@Californialife67]

Love the way you explain things about photography & videography in your video's. It's very comprehensive and easy to understand with the real-life examples you give. Many videos speak as if you already know everything, which leaves a lot of questions after you watch the video's. I've learned more in just a few of your videos than I have before watching many other videos! Thanks!

[@nancybateman7378]

Very helpful. Clarified, for me, certain questions I've had while out shooting, particularly workshops.

[@susanfirth2279]

Great explanation and tips Mark. Loved that image of the iceberg and red sailboat.

[@dennisblack4444]

I use manual mode all the time, mainly because i do a lot of astro but i am pushing myself out of my comfort zone and working on my hand held photos. Thank you for the awesome content👍

[@dalloiselle7274]

Thank you Mark, I always appreciate your candor and clarity.

[@celinemorisset5533]

Hi Mark, great video. Nice tip on ISO. Great learning as always. Thanks!

[@umfilmmaker8253]

This is excellent. I went to film school, and I remember specifically asking which order should be prioritized when choosing camera settings and I wasn’t given a straight answer. I use the same method that you mention here, but it was only through my own trial and error that I sorted this out. I also plan my photo shoots ahead, so I can minimize unnecessary equipment and have a strategy for end results. I’m a videographer first, but now I’m expanding my photography skills and really studying my weaknesses in an effort to maximize my success during outings. Thanks for your channel!

[@mikeray4902]

But going out with no expectations can have its reward.

[@sarahmitchell4729]

Once again a superb video. Extremely informative. You are the best.

[@rooscreativelearningcurve2511]

I’ve only seen two of your videos but they are so well done and so simply stated and understandable thank you for sharing !!! I have subscribed and look forward to seeing many more 👍🏻

[@danmckee4988]

Yep, your right on target, I go through the same process as you’ve described in this video and I usually have very good results. Like recently, I’m landscape photographer, but I took the opportunity to shoot photos of a Hot Air Balloon Glow in our local area. So, since it was ½ hour past sunset, I knew that a higher shutter speed would be necessary so there’s no blurred photos, then open up a wider aperture, and increase the iSO. As a result, I came away with many good photos, all in Manual mode!

[@hotflashfoto]

Good stuff, sir. The 1 or 2 (over) focal length math needs just a little clarification. If you use 1 / 50 and need it to be faster to be sharper, then using 2 / 50 would actually slow it down to 1 / 25. What you need is to use 1 / (50 * 2), which makes it 1 / 100. I really like your steps, especially putting the ISO last on the list, since it is simply an electronic gain and not gathering actual photons like aperture and shutter speed do. Thank you so much!

[@kylepalmer1645]

Thanks, beginner at photography, getting started with Surfing photography from land mostly in Manuel, some AV and TV on Canon, good results so far, conditions change so fast, great video Sir.

[@charliejg]

Answer to your question: I typically shoot manual mode. Really nice, clear, easy to understand tutorial Mark. Thanks! Question: When do you handle white balance/color temp? Do you use auto WB then adjust in post to your liking? I typically do that, but sometimes I feel like I make the images too warm. So, I wondering how you know how far to go? Thanks for the info, have a great week.

[@Centauri27]

I'm definitely bucking the trend by saying Program mode. I'm of the camp that "P" stands for Professional. 😉 Let the camera choose, and then you have the freedom to override as necessary. I often shoot very quickly to catch the moment (especially when on a trip) and P works well for me.

[@mikebartow9415]

Thank you! Recently while taking pictures of the Cleveland Air Show with a 500mm lens I used 1/1600 f11 and Auto ISO and with jets flying 400-500 mph i thought that was necessary for more accurate focus. I did find it harder to maintain focus when the planes are flying away from you more than flying at you.

[@Marleydia]

Mark, I really appreciate your channel, you’re my go to landscape teacher. I’m mostly a wildlife photographer, and have been shooting for about 3 years. I shoot manual with auto iso. However I must admit I’m a bit lost when doing landscape photography with my 100-500 zoom. I understand to use servo on cannon and take aperture into account for depth of field, but then I’m winging it. I have a good understanding of exposure, etc, but struggle to apply it to landscape. Like what focus points? Zones? Where to focus? Essential settings? It would be great to see a video for us hybrid shooters from a very basic newbie landscape photography perspective!

[@mariosnicolaou8770]

Excellent video Mark, as always. Very useful information. At 11:46 when you toggled the information displayed on your monitor to find the ISO quickly, I believe you pressed the letter "I" on your keyboard. Just wanted to mention that for the other viewers, as it's a helpful feature which works in the Library and the Develop module of LR (switches between 2 groups of data regarding the photo, and the 3rd press will turn off this display, etc.). Thanks again :)

[@newdawn7586]

Newbie photographer here. Your video is great…you have a new subscriber 😊📸

[@mattnovak5896]

As always Mark, great video! I have a question that is channel related vs photography. HOW do you manage to come up with new content all the time!? I have been watching your channel for years now, I believe since the year you made your career change...impressive that you can keep the video's coming out, do photography, process and do all your seminars!!

[@SCAPIANOANDGUITAR]

Excellent explanation...cleared a lot up...TY

[@rickpetersonphotography]

Hi Mark! Great content!! I mostly shoot Aperture Priority along with my Exposure Compensation dial on my Fuji X-T2/T4/T5. (Actually set the Exp Comp dial to “C” and use my front command dial to adjust the Exp Comp up or down). I will use manual if attached to my tripod.

[@garryhughes3747]

This is great advice. Thanks for making the effort to share your knowledge.

[@marcmurison]

I use Canon's Fv mode with auto ISO, which is a hybrid full manual + auto ISO + exposure control. I assigned the thumb wheel to changing between shutter, aperture, or exposure, and the index finger wheel to adjust the setting. Once you get the hang of it, it's fast (most of the time I have it set to exposure adjust) , and for most situations the 3 stops each way of exposure control is plenty enough. About ~5 percent of the time I switch over to actual full-manual control.

[@pictureeyecandy]

Perfect, Manual mostly! I always ask what is the most important, Aperture or Shutter Speed then set that first. ISO is always the last thing I set.

[@davidkrye]

Thank you so much for this video. I learned so much from this one. I was just like you, trying to keep the ISO as low as possible and then I would be disappointed in what the picture would turn out. Thanks

[@garrydelday5816]

When I first started out I shot everything at ISO 100, three years on and I’m not afraid to bump it up at all. It’s a tool to be used and as you say last in the thought process but is very useful especially with Wildlife photography when subjects are moving quickly and you have harsh light and need a fast shutter speed. I would add a basic understanding of the exposure triangle is a must for anyone starting out, get your head around that (it’s not that difficult) and your photography will only improve 😉

[@williampetersen2899]

In my custom menu settings for landscapes, it's manual mode. Same with macro menu setting. For wildlife menu setting, it's aperture mode with auto ISO and at least 1/1000 second shutter speed. Another great video BTW!

[@alkrevit4755]

I like using auto iso which fits in with what you describe in the video. Auto iso gives you the perfect exposure but like you mention you can bump that up if under some challenging lighting conditions. I shoot with Pentax gear so I use Tav mode with auto iso. I believe in other makes the same principle is manual mode and auto iso.

[@mikelanghorst]

I often use auto-iso when shooting action, but I keep an eye on what that ISO would be as well..

[@michaelmcdonald3345]

Another great video! I shoot on Manual mode 98% of the time. If I'm shooting with a tripod I'm not worried about a low shutter speed. When hand held I'm on the move and therefore constantly adjusting the aperture and shutter speed. Also, I find leaving the ISO on Auto works best for most situations. (I shoot with a Canon R6 so low light is not really a problem.)

[@silvershadow4965]

Mark, another very helpful video. I have been shooting more birds this year so by default I have focused on shutter first, then aperture. I have tinkered with Auto ISO but have now moved back to manually selecting ISO based on the need for fast shutter and often a very wide aperture and the available light. So, a very similar process to what you outlined. I would like to see a video from you regarding where to focus. Using small apertures increases the DOF but I have struggled in landscape photography to find the right focus point. For instance where did you focus for the ice berg and sailboat? Similarly, where did you focus in the woodland scenes. Also, commenting on focus mode and metering mode would help. If you have already covered these topics can you remind us which video? Great job and I really appreciate your style of sharing information.

[@Marleydia]

Nature photographer here. I would love to see this video suggestion. I never know what focus point to use of how to focus a landscape scene. I can get some ok shots, but it’s the blind squirrel finds a nut method!

[@Irwined]

I appreciate your videos. I do wish you would have shared the numbers on these shots. How speed and focal length were balanced, etc. Thank you though.

[@wayfairing_soul]

Great video as usual! Such helpful tips. Is that a Sony Yellow Portable Boombox on your desk?

[@rickpetersonphotography]

I’m sure you already have a few videos on ISO, but can’t have enough! Could you please make a video on Photographing a couple scenes with lowest to highest ISO, showing the max ISO you would crank up to in a pinch. Thanks!

[@ww8wv1]

I used to be scared of any ISO over 100 and one day I didn’t have a choice but to bump it up a pretty good amount. The results were really good so now I shoot manual with auto ISO, I never worry about the ISO anymore because I know that the noise is completely fixable.

[@user-kj3ch3ke8m]

Thanks for yet another beautifully clear and enlightening tutorial, Mark! Is it too late to ask a question about this video? I'm familiar with the rule of thumb that says to adjust your shutter speed to double your focal length, i.e., if you're shooting at 50ml, shoot at least at 1/100 of a second. My question is: if you have a crop sensor, should you base this on the crop focal length, or on the 35mm equivalent focal length? I apologise if this is a dumb question!

[@13MoonsOverMayhem]

Thanks, Mark, this is helpful. I like your teaching style, and I wish so much you could help with a particular challenge I have. But its way different than landscapes. I don't have that much time to stop and think for every photo. I'm a volunteer photographing roller derby. I got very lucky, my husband has photographing derby for nine years, and I was able to get in because of him, but I am a fairly new photographer, and my favorite shooting is out in nature, especially macro. So derby is a way different challenge. We're shooting mostly for Rose City Rollers, literally the best teams in the world, and the game play is FAST. But their venue is poorly lit. Difficult to freeze the motion. Hubby has it dialed in after shooting for 9 years, but his methods aren't working for me. Or I'm just not learning it well from him. If you're ever going to be in Portland, OR while there's a derby bout going on, I'd love to take you. Its a really fun game to watch and a great atmosphere. You're in Colorado, aren't you? There's a few good teams. Denver, and Black Diaspora in particular, if I recall correctly, are good.

[@simonpayne7994]

Nice "Orange & Teal". 😁

[@Axonteer]

the only real problem with noise is when you have to crop in (lets assume you can not always carry a 1200mm f8 lense or afford one) and that you loose detail when it gets very noisy (sharpness) thats just the way it is. It is not easy but i try to follow two mantras for this: 1) If i can choose to have a grainy noisy but sharp picture, i prefer that over a blurry low iso one 2) remember your sensors resolution, will you really see this? I shot part of a wedding of my brother last year and obviously in the venue the light was horrible (you only notice this as a photographer) and i didnt want to use a flash to not disturb people and get those candid shots. So well iso 25000 it is (mind you with my canon r5 i can comfortably go up to 6400 and not have much of an issue) and obviously if i zoomed in it was OH MY GOD THE NOISE.... but when i printed the picture out on a A4 portrait book= you only notice it when you know what to look for and it just could be artistic grain. Here is also a neat tip from me: think noise is an issue? go black and white, much less noticable. And im SUPER HAPPY that i chose to take the shot not blurry because it was a hell of a keeper in one case.

[@tombishop7545]

Thanks!

[@xmeda]

It is easy. Scene disctates aperture. Then movement dictates minimum shutter. And rest is ISO that is limited by noise and dynamic range. Then you just can make compromises like if there is not enough light for minimum shutter speed, it might be possible to open aperture a bit or live with more noise thanks to higher sensitivity. Aperture priority mode is basically full auto where camera is trying to do something and usually fails... The only usable automatic mode is AUTO ISO like Pentax TAv or Manual mode with auto ISO and some EV+/- compensation.

[@braddahjerry]

4:47 that is a Ti plant (Pronounced like "tea") The flower you mention are just leaves. The actual flowers are smaller and grows on a separate branch at the top

[@stevenbrassem6574]

Thanks for your videos, which I enjoy watching! This particular one didn’t really have much new content for me particularly, but I do have a question if I may: in your “workflow”, with the end in mind as you say, do you ever consider bracketing the image to compose an HDR image in post-processing for getting the correct exposure overall and, if yes, would you prefer shutter speed bracketing over aperture over ISO (assuming the image is moreover “stagnant” landscape as otherwise it usually doesn’t work in any case)?

[@timurhant469]

Manual and custom modes. Mostly manual, customs if I do macro or fast animal/aviation/sport shots.

[@mikeray4902]

Do you realize what a luxury it is to dial in an iso instead of having to change film?

[@MrPhillipgraham]

Hi Mark, I've watched tons of your videos now and I've learned so much! I've just bought a used Fujifilm s-x10 and going through the 354 manual to learn all it's settings, gulp! It's an incredible camera but all the features are quite intimidating to a novice. I'm really excited about landscape photography and after going out with a very old sony cybershot dslr I'm completely addicted! Can I please ask, should I use the 'beginner' features in the camera like filter effects, scene position, auto exposure etc or turn them all off?Also what metering mode should I use and do you use focus BKT? Cheers

[@markgoostree6334]

It's always required for us to determine how to deal with the movement in the scene. I think of movement as the gorilla in the room. I don't always manage it very well. Since very few of my pictures are seen by anyone it really doesn't matter. Still, if I'm going to do photography, I should work on it more.

[@tjsinva]

Keeping it simple. 👍🥂

[@mikiethebikie]

Damn sage advice Mark. 😊

[@gocubbies83]

Manual mode with auto iso is the way to go, then exposure compensation:

[@ShortwaveLog]

Hi Mark - so the photo taken on the cliff with the grass in the foreground - Q: where would you focus for this? - the foreground grass, middle somewhere or the distant cliff ? - thanks

[@MarkDenneyPhoto]

For that one I focused about a 3rd of the way into the scene which was the furthest point of the grass from my camera.

[@andrealavigne7824]

Thanks for the tips & workflow information, Mark. I do have a question. When you talked about determining aperture, you mentioned one consideration was if something in the scene was moving. I'm not sure what movement has to do with aperture. I can understand with shutter speed, but why would movement, or the lack thereof, be a consideration when choosing an aperture setting? I'm just a bit confused. Anyway, I would appreciate any clarification you can provide. Thanks again, & have a fabulous day!

[@kenharnish5778]

I shoot by looking at the view screen. I usually use an aperture between f/8 and f/16. Then I read the light meter and adjust the shutter speed to where I under-expose around a 1/3 of a stop, sometimes more (up to a full stop if I have sky in the shot). Is there a better way? I rarely get tack shop images when I shoot outside of Golden Hour.

[@jamesvanlangeveld459]

Question: for darker scenes, the camera's light meter attempts to expose so the scene is as bright as daylight. Is there a "best" method for exposing dark or nighttime scenes? Should I use the light meter recommendation and then darken back down in post, or should I attempt to get it to look how I want in-camera?

[@alansach8437]

That's what exposure compensation is for.

[@michaelmorris1865]

Exposure compensation is your friend, especially if you're using any auto settings.

[@darrylbrooks3361]

So, maybe I missed it. But in the image with the rock formation and the grass in the foreground you discussed determining the best aperture, but you didn't say what you used.

[@barbarachamberlain6918]

Always manual. It really bugs me to not have full control (except I often use auto white balance).

[@OldGirlPhotography]

I've always found it odd when a pro says they shoot in full manual mode - yes, I know it is the accepted mantra. Pros typically have the most expensive cameras, with the most automatic and automated features, yet turn them all off to shoot in manual mode. Why not just shoot with an entry level mirrorless then, perhaps selecting one with a great sensor, but not paying for features you don't use? I never shoot in manual mode, and rarely control more than one setting, and only when the camera for some reason can't recognize the scene. Today's higher end mirrorless cameras are wonderful partners in the capture of a photograph, and I have no hesitation letting them do the work when I can. I've even tried a few experiments shooting in full AUTOMATIC mode. The results were surprisingly good.

[@georgedavall9449]

Mark Love Your work, and that Iceberg Photo is killah! But I gotta call You out on @04:05! I am sure You meant to say the ‘Depth of Focus’ is large, rather than say “to get everything in sharp focus?” F/11.0 -F/16.0 can produce Defraction in smaller formats than your MF Fuji? Sorry, but I hear this statement made a lot, regarding getting ‘everything in focus.’ Just a pet peeve of mine. Your knowledge and Photographic skills are impressive, and no offense meant! Thank You for sharing this on Your Channel.

[@L.Spencer]

For the shutter speed to focal length, does it matter on a crop sensor? If a 50mm on a crop sensor is like 85mm, does that change to 1/160 of a second? I was thinking that when I'm using a 10-18mm maybe that helps in low light that I seem to be able to go a bit slower on the shutter speed and not get camera shake. It's a balancing act when there are camera limitations.

[@robertleeimages]

Yes for 1st question, and as 1/80 is closest to 85 you could get away with that but to be sure 1/100 should negate any camera shake but for me i always double and would go to what you said at 1/160. For example I use my 55-250mm at 250mm(400 equivalent) for birds, cricket or Aussie rules, but for my not as steady as they should/could be hands i have to shoot at 1/800 to be 100% sure

[@alistairstephenson4145]

So would you consider auto iso?

[@colosine]

I always use manual mode, I feel like I need to control the entire setting for my shots, I've tried the other 2 modes but found I'd have a hard time getting good exposure

[@em_m5989]

I was taught that ISO is the first thing to set and you're not supposed to go above 200. I got over that notion, but I still shoot on 200 since my aperture is generally wide open and the scenes are static. But yeah, a little bit of noise is fine and sometimes even desirable

[@michalkubecek]

There are two big issues with advices like "don't go over ISO 200" (or any other fixed number). First, it depends on the camera quite a lot. I recently upgraded my camera and I would estimate the difference in noise level to ~3EV, i.e. an ISO 25600 image from the 2022 full frame camera looks about as noisy as an ISO 3200 image from 2009 APS-C, perhaps even a bit less. Second, you usually do not use high sensitivity just out of a whim but because you have to: there are limits to how wide an aperture you can use and how slow shutter speed is acceptable. And as pointed in the video, while the noise is something that one can (to some extent) handle in the postprocess and live with, out of focus images and motion blur are not.

[@patrickstonetree1]

It is easier to deal with noise than blur or an out of focus subject.

[@jamesbarnes3063]

Aperture priority for wildlife manual for landscape

[@edwardkurek5355]

What lens did you use for the Greenland photos?

[@patrickstonetree1]

I have a confession, shoot manually for aperture and shutter but let the camera set its own ISO up to a certain point.

[@annetaylor6852]

I always shoot in Manual. Do you ever use Auto ISO? I often do, but maybe I shouldn’t.

[@MarkDenneyPhoto]

No I never use auto iso, but maybe if I photographed birds or something similar I would

[@annetaylor6852]

I photograph a lot of birds and wildlife. I also like to do air shows. I will be at one this weekend.

[@Simpaiii]

@@annetaylor6852 then auto-iso is the right call. Landscape often has the luxury of taking your time to tweak things. Wildlife doesn't. you also have to potentially move your camera a lot which can result in varying light ,so it's a plus if your camera quickly adjust things for you. And if you' want to adjust the brightness of your photo you can still use the exposure compensation dial on your camera.

[@cgan2013]

Wildlife - I always use auto-ISO. I want to set the aperture (create pleasing bokeh) and shutter speed (to freeze animal movement). The ISO is least important to me at this point. If it winds up being a high ISO that the camera determines to be appropriate, then noise reduction software like Topaz Denoise comes to the rescue. But a proper exposure (aperture/shutter speed/ISO) reduces noise, no matter the ISO that auto-ISO selects.

[@richardhaire5001]

What about auto ISO? Is that ok too?

[@harderja]

Reminder ISO doesn’t cause noise/grain darkness does. Raising your ISO increases the intensity of the photo. Which in turn intensifies the noise that is already there.

[@MarkDenneyPhoto]

Correct

[@gkarmakar225]

Condition

[@BobN54]

I really can't agree with your method or the results it produces ( by which I mean settings, not photos). For instance, in your iceberg picture, there is no reason to be using an aperture as small as f/11 or f/16. Even f/4 on FF will keep everything within DOF on a shot like that, and all you're doing is reducing resolution due to diffraction if you use those settings. On crop sensor cameras it's even worse. The phrase 'higher aperture level' is really meaningless, You probably mean 'larger f-number' or 'smaller aperture'. Really, the first question to ask when setting f-number' is 'how much DOF do I want'. Depending on your pre-visualisation (which was good advice) you might want a little or a lot. Then you set the largest aperture (smallest f-number') that will meet your DOF needs, because that will give you least diffraction blur and bigger exposure, if you are shutter speed limited. You spend a lot of time discussing the creative impact of shutter speed settings, but kind of glossed over the creative aspects of setting aperture. ISO advice is good. I would add that auto ISO is going to do a better job than you will unless you really know what you're doing. Also,you never explain what 'exposure' is, and some of your comments don't support it's meaning. For instance, when you've set the aperture and shutter speed, than changing ISO won't change exposure.

[@DaveKingMusic]

Manual. I’m a control freak! Lol

[@frolero56]

Interesting, but you didn´t mention what camera settings are wrong...

[@petrub27]

moi, I set iso first because I shoot film, baby

[@sutv6754]

Mark I'm a big fan of your channel but I find it a drag that you show the photo and talk about it a long time but never say what appeture you used. Why?

[@rayspencer5025]

Shoot slide film for a while. You will learn quick or go broke.

[@PMCN53]

😎👍

[@lichtgestalt9540]

the best mode is P = professional!