Maybe if you started the video with the name of the App first. So what is the name of the free app please.

I am a big believer that every photographer should practice in manual at some point, play with different metering modes so you know how they work, understand exposure, reciprocity etc. But honestly, it's pretty hard to take a bad exposure with these modern mirrorless cameras. You have (or can have) the histogram right in the viewfinder, and exposure and DOF preview, so what you are seeing in the viewfinder is almost exactly what you are going to get when you click the button, regardless what mode you are in. Pretty hard to "F" it up! In the DSLR days, and even more so in the film days, exposure modes were critical, but not so much now. I hardly pay any attention to the exposure mode (though I almost always leave it in evaluative). I just look in the viewfinder, adjust until it looks like what I am after, and boom! It's almost always perfect, or so close that a miniscule adjustment (1/3 stop) in Lightroom makes it perfect.

Awesome video. Thanks, Mark

Great steps for creating fog. Thanks so much for the PDF.

Amazing that there is no settings screen to customize for location (e.g., C or F).

Because of the sensor shield/closed shutter, I bought my R5 a few years back. At that time all other sensors were exposed and I don’t like that. Had the Nikon Z8 been out 3 years ago, I would have stuck with Nikon. Congrats on the new camera system, that is always very exciting.

So why didn’t you just use a graduated filter on the sky instead of both the filter and the sky adjustment? It seems a little redundant. Couldn’t you get the same result with just the g filter?

I want to Thank You for showing all these editing ways making Lrc a fun program. This reminds me of the early days of Capture ONE and the layering on Photoshop. C1 was the early Lr of using sections in a image to adjust different parts, back in 2014 it was included with Sony cameras for $30, the bad thing was you had to import all images in a date file so you would just put one image in a file. As far as PS you play with layers of sections changing each to your likes, back then I would watch Trey Ratciff do an image that could never be capture by another photographer not knowing he used PS. A main reason not use or learn PS back then was cost $800+ and each full update. It was not till the $80 or so editing programs came out did us Hobbyist get into the Game of editing. Just as a note do not pull all images in Lr/Lrc for the updates will give you a new catalog and after some time like 3 years you will need a new computer and getting all your images transferred will be troublesome.

Good thing is that you can change colors in this mask. This will change look of anything

This masking technique made my pictures classy. Thank you

Good old days when Lightroom was paid once software. Now this monthly or annual subscription destroyed my workflow

Helpful Video ... good one sir ❤🎉

Mark you are fantastic. As a capture one user you are pushing me towards lrc

I switched from a Nikon D800 to Fujifim GFX100s a couple of years ago but encountered the same focal length limit. A Nikon to Fujifilm lens adapter didn't work well, so a few weeks ago I traded-in my Fujifilm equipment for a new Nikon D850 and several used Nikkor lenses that cover the 14mm to 600mm range.

Ship it

Spot on. Another potential source of blur is forgetting to turn OFF image stabilization when shooting on a tripod. A completely still camera can confuse the motion sensor and make it "hunt" for a stable condition as the shutter is released.

Would love the z8 but I have the D810 and have invested in a few lenses for it since buying the camera in 2015. It would be too expensive to switch to mirrorless now. And I still really love my D810.

Hello "metering" , now I know what you are ! Thank you Mark !

Lots of good points and advice. This was a good video. Thank you!

Great tips - thanks!!

Excellent presentation Mark. Thank you for such a simple explanation.

I love your videos they are always helpful !

Thanks for the vid. Very helpful. I noticed you did not increase contrast in brighter areas. I tend to do that.

I have it but perhaps have not used it as much as I should have.

I really like the linear filter combined with the sky selection. Will have to use that.

Very clever mate

For Handhold i can recomend getting a collapsable one Leg Tripod. It gives you support holding your Camera, Esp. when your Working with Zoom Lenses and they are a bit heavy over Time in Handheld. I have a better Image stabilisation and I can do small corrections without bit adjustments also holds my Image more sharp avoiding micro shakes in long distance

Thank you. When you adjust the crop for what is important resulting in an odd image aspect ratio, how do you get that printed on metal/canvas at one of the standard sizes offered at most print shops?

Any reason you’re not starting with the gradient mask instead of the sky mask?

Nice tips!

Some useful tips; thank you very much Mark

thank you thank you thank you one of the best you have ever done that has truly taken me to another level thank you

Thank you. This video helped me a lot. Masking is one of the areas that I need to work on the most.

Thanks for the tips. I've had the app for a while, but never really figured out how to use it.

Thanks!

This is awesome guide. Problem is lightroom kinda expensive to just try on. I wonder how to do this on DarkTable or other free photo editing app

Thanks so much Mark! These are all awesome tips! Going to try them all right now! Merry Christmas!

Great tips there mark thanks. Although can i just ask, is there any need to use the sky mask when you can just use the linear gradient instead?! If you are keeping the edge feathered on thd horizon i dont see the point in using the sky mask?

Oh damn. ' this app isn't available for your device as it was made for an older version of Android' 😢

Interesting video thanks for recommendation Mark! I use the meteogram on windy which gives this info but in a visual graph. But ill try clear outside as it has a simpler UI? Thats if it works for the UK!

Love these tips-- My only comment on the last tip you should subtract the directional light from the bottom of the cliff on the right side as the light at sunset would not be hitting that area as brightly as the angle of the sun would be lower

Very informative video. Thanks

I used GF250/4 from 2018, and I am definitely sure one day I'll buy the GF500/4. No long range limits, virtually.

I've used the app for sunset/sunrise clouds and agree with your enthusiasm. Your insight into the Dew Point/fog correlation was new to me. Thanks for giving me a new tool!

👍👍😍 Thank You

Great tips ! I'll watch it again (and again) and write it down ... Kind regards, Guy.