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Our outside clothes lines we setup in the last episode didn’t fair too well in the downpours during our stay on the river bank. The forecast didn’t look promising so we had bought them under the awning though the dampness of the air prevented anything from happening. The next morning we moved everything inside again on make shift lines running l through the Troopy and cranked the heater till everything dried out. Far from an ideal situation though sometimes life on the road call for adaptations.
When everything finally dried we packed up and headed out of the forrest and back on the road. As we now turn west we’re nearly on our original path in Georgia before the border fiasco. This path takes us back past the capital Tbilisi and on to some of the ‘best’ roads we have driven on in a long while. ‘Best’ is somewhat subjective as we actually prefer a lesser quality road with a more local experience. So to be more specific, these were 4-6 lane smooth concrete finish highways. Quite mundane though good for covering ground. We had planned on revisiting Tbilisi as it is actually a beautiful city though the lure of the mountains in the north stole our attention so we pushed on.
Off the main East/West highway we begin our journey back deep in to the southern mountains, winding our way through lush green valleys, past fast flowing crystal clear rivers, and through sporadically located towns. These valleys were once important trading routes and throughout the hills lie ancient forts in various states of decay.
We arrive at our final destation for the day - Vardzia, and find a spot adjacent the rock face city to camp for the night. The temperature is a beautiful dry warm heat and as we settle in a friendly shepherd passes with his herd of cows while the sun sets over the valley. The city of Vardzia was hand carved into the solid rock face under the direction of King/Queen Tamar for protection from the moguls in the 12th century. An estimated 50k people lived in the network of tunnels and caves that made up the city which had only one reported entrance. Unfortunately in the 13th century a massive earthquake split the entire face of the rock off and exposed the city destroying is defence and rendering it an easy target. The Persians later attacked and destroyed the city in the 16th century and apart from the monks who still inhabitant the city it is now abandoned.
From Vardzia we retrace our steps back out of the valley, dodging the aimlessly wondering cattle, stopping in at a well restored fort, crossing a few creeks, before finding a great camp spot in an open field This area is marked on hiking routes due to it’s natural hot springs. During the Soviet era a lot of hot springs were converted into more a bathhouse style arrangement with multiple closed concrete rooms. Since the collapse of the USSR these bathhouse hot springs have also collapsed and are now crumbled shells which at times can be not so inviting. Nevertheless this one was jammed full of locals so we gave it a miss with the intention of checking it out on the way back through.
That’s it for this episode, in the next one we head back north and to one of our favourite places in Georgia.
Thanks for watching.
Jolie and Mark