The best dados- Table Saw vs. Router?

Let's end this dabate once and for all! Three ways to do it, lots of tips along the way...
Links to stuff in this video►
My favorite plywood router bits: amzn.to/2VFg1ye
Bora Edge Guide & Router Plate: amzn.to/2XNangh
Digital height gauge: amzn.to/34OI0jg
A comprehensive video about dado sets: • Why your table saw dad...
My Dado Set (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbideto...
Magnetic Dado Shims (Use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbideto...
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Sawblade.com: www.sawblade.com/
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs....
Follow us on social media►
Instagram: / stumpynubs
Twitter: / stumpynubs
Facebook: / stumpy-nubs-woodworkin...

[@ajhieb]

I've used my router table, router and edge-guide, dado stack on a my table saw, and dado stack on my radial arm saw. Rarely am I ever just making a dado cut and that's it, so usually, the project needs determine which tool I use. Since I can do dados with almost any tool, I usually just use whichever tool isn't already setup for something else on the project. (or sometimes, whichever tool doesn't have a ton of stuff piled up on it)

[@coreygrua3271]

This is the Harvard University of woodworking. Thanks Professor Hamilton.

[@BobHerres]

Corey, I must agree. When "Professor Hamilton" creates a video, regardless of the topic -absolutely everything is presented in a very succinct manner. It's totally futile, to jot down a few "point-form notes" because each word of every sentence is jam-packed with solid and concise info. Too much to write down. While I always keep my notifications turned "on", I now search "this channel for reference" before doing anything. Thank you for sharing this.

[@negotiableaffections]

For those who feel disappointed when they get vlog and not project, I say 'good luck learning by trial and error!'. If my classroom experiences [back in the day] had been equipped with little 10 minute 'cut-aways' to your vlogs, I'd be a smarter man today! Thanks Jim for taking the time, it is never in vain.

[@kdcyyz]

Liked for the correct use of the technical term "cattywampus".

[@mothman-jz8ug]

Excellent point! Many people confuse the terms "cattywampus" with "whockerjawled".

[@andrewwashington3186]

I thought it was spelled kattywumpos

[@porker5749]

I thought it would have been spelled catty wampus!

[@guermeisterdoodlebug7980]

And I always thought caddywhompus-in fact, my spell check even suggested it!

[@adrianrositas6315]

I’m a beginner woodworker and I can’t stress enough how helpful your videos are. Thank you!

[@141poolplayer]

Hey, I was wondering how your hand is doing since the accident with the grinder. Is it all healed up? I hope so. I couldn't see anything wrong from watching the video.

[@toysoldier46552]

He lost a lot of movement in that hand, for example he can't make a closed fist.

[@stevecuthbert8856]

@@toysoldier46552 So I guess bar fights are now out of the question.

[@toysoldier46552]

@@stevecuthbert8856 I don't think he does that anyways but squeezing some tools may be impossible for him. For example tin snips and such or pliers to hold something.

[@avremlrapoport]

One other pro for the router: if you're making a dado that doesn't go to the end of the board, you cannot use a table saw because the blade is round, so it won't get the edge of the dado flat (as a router would) Love your vids! Really educational!

[@indalcecio]

Still can, just have to clean it up with a chisel or what have you. Which you have to do with the router too just in the other dimension unless the piece being put in the dado is rounded at the end to match the rounded end of the dado. Still yeah router gives better results for less effort, for me anyway. The repeatability of a table saw is great too though.

[@bigredracingdog466]

A router plane is perfect for this. I make dados with my track saw and clean up the end with a router plane and chisel. Even with a router you'll need to square the corner at the end with a chisel.

[@cidercreekranch]

I use all three methods, The one I use depends on how quantity, size of the dado and size of the panels. If I'm using the tablesaw then I add a vertical feather board to help keep the panel flat against the table.

[@garymeierhenry3223]

A tip that wasn't really shown as a tip? Just seeing the very short clip of stacking up the dado blades on the on the hard surface to match the thickness of the wood. Well that's way easier!!! I have done the.... put what you think together put it in the saw and test cut... sigh... and then change with trial and error.

[@TheSireverard]

"do the detroit lions suck or do they really suck?" Nearly spit out my water. Thanks for the laugh!

[@kennethlerman9664]

That's a nice analysis. One way to make the router version with multiple passes would be to use an adjustable parallel. (Google that if you aren't familiar with them.) After making the first cut, clamp your block against the fence. Then set your adjustable parallel to the desired offset and use it instead of your custom wood block. If you don't have an adjustable parallel, consider making some out of hardwood. Ken

[@Dadywarcrimss]

Chisel with optional No. 71 router plane

[@pfarabee]

I just used my Bora NGX for the first time the other day.. and wow.. just have to say.. YES! For anyone considering one, you definitely want the NGX, not the WTX! With the NGX, The circular saw blade is very close to the straight edge, and it comes with a small clear plastic strip that affixes to the bottom. You cut the strip with the saw after affixing it, and now you have a perfectly aligned visual guide to where your blade edge will contact the surface. Just line up the edge of the strip on your line (after considering which side of the line your blade should land on, of course), clamp it down and zooom. One thing to note, though. The clamps that hold the saw onto the sled can sometimes slip a bit, especially if the blade gets bound in a piece (because you didn't properly support what you thought would be a "small enough" offcut, like I did). So, be sure to check for proper saw alignment in the sled BEFORE EACH CUT.. not before you start using it, but before every cut, just look to be sure it is still secure and straight.

[@lisakelley9451]

This was great! I'm a novice woodworker. I'm planning a set of pantry shelves, so the very specific conditions and circumstances you defined as being preferred with each of the various cutting options was extremely helpful! Thanks so much!

[@joekanicki5306]

Great comparison! Personally I like the Festool track and router combo for large panels and bookcases since I invested in the saw for large panels, the step to the router was not a big one and works very smooth. The vac makes this a very clean process as well. It can be a bit fussy but each method requires good test cuts, and I don’t find this any more time consuming than any other process.

[@TheseusTitan]

Your view point is based on using a dado for the thickness of plywood. There are other reasons to use a dado. For example, we use dados to assemble a 4”x4” post to a hanging arm (which is also 4”x4”). We need a depth of 1.75”. So we use dado blades. I do like using a router to dado where it works however.

[@TreeOfLifeWoodworking]

I feel like router always gives me more tearout than tablesaw for dados. That's generally why I go tabl saw. And I don't even have a dado blade so it's even slower lol just a FTG Forrest blade

[@DKWalser]

With a 'compression' bit, the router shouldn't produce more tearout than the table saw.

[@keithpalmer2434]

Thanks for all the information. However, I don’t run into many of the issue, workarounds, jig idea, and general practices that you go over in the video. I do all my dados on a radial arm saw. Any thoughts or ideas for the RAS people out there?

[@StumpyNubs]

Links to stuff in this video► My favorite plywood router bits: amzn.to/2VFg1ye Bora Edge Guide & Router Plate: amzn.to/2XNangh Digital height gauge: amzn.to/34OI0jg A comprehensive video about dado sets: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6mXhpqur8Z1ZrM My Dado Set (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/dado-set... Magnetic Dado Shims (Use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/magnetic... When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Sawblade.com: www.sawblade.com/

[@markmcgillicutty6644]

Okay, so I'm just getting caught up on the content here... it takes a while to watch every single video on the ol' interweb... :) But an option not covered is to add a router table to the end of your table saw. Best of both worlds! Expand your table saw working surface, have the full table available for cutting dados with either the dado stack or router bit, have access to the larger, more stable table saw fence if you want it or the smaller router table fence for smaller pieces. And having the router hanging under the table saw means less floorspace is required to get a super stable setup. Who really wants one of those dinky benchtop router tables when you can have the whole mass of the table saw working for you? Love this channel. Hate that I've got years of content to catch up on.... lol

[@redscortgt93]

It’s like you know exactly what I’m thinking and then you post a video about it. Lol

[@OzSafe1]

I have a router extension on my table saw with an Incra saw/router system. I always wanted to know if this was the best method for doing my dados and after watching this I know it is, so thanks heaps.

[@granworks]

Excellent overview! I've gravitated towards a hand-held router with a smaller pattern bit and an adjustable exact-width jig. The Wood Whisperer has an excellent re-usable one. I tend to just whip up a custom one per project since it takes seconds. The result is a perfect sized dado much faster than any other (perfect sized) option. There are only two notable downsides to that method. The first is that if I am cutting a groove in an 8' sheet for some reason, then creating a custom jig that long might stretch my available straight scrap. The second is that for awhile I didn't have a pattern bit smaller than 1/2" and so 1/2" dados/grooves were out of the question.

[@kamleo1685]

Modify your jig or make another one that uses your router with a guide bushing and a straight bit that is smaller than your 1/2 inch.

[@Polkster13]

I see you now have your books on your back wall. I would be very interested to know what books you have and which ones that have made a major impact on you.

[@StumpyNubs]

We have a vog about that coming up.

[@black99vett]

Another great video! If I have one or two dados to cut I'll use the table saw and just make multiple passes with a single blade. Assuming it isn't a long board or something that just isn't safe on the table saw.

[@subungulate]

You didn't end the debate. You highlighted the best applications for both. Neither is best in all situations. Still, an informative video and good reasons why I need to have more tools.

[@QuarionGalanodel]

Another situation where the plunge router is the a really good option is when you need to make a bunch of dados that are all parallel and the same distance apart. I once saw another woodworker make a new plate for his router that had a piece of key-stock attached to the underside. That allowed him to use each dado that he cut in the piece to act as a guide for the next one as the key-stock would slide through the previous dado and hold the router in place.

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

That bora edge guide system looks really good.

[@Goorney]

Using dado blades on a table saw looks to be rather dangerous whichever way you look at it. The user has to remove both the blade guard and the riving knife to perform any cuts. No wonder its banned in the UK.

[@dougtilaran3496]

AOL Key" use real wood, plane to thickness . Solved ! You're a fantastic craftsman but living in the worlds first fourth world nation. I can't even buy that garbage.... My 2 x 4 are 2 x4 inches...50 x 100

[@howardskillington4445]

This is very well done - thorough, clear, and even-handed. I, too, have used each of the techniques shown here and agree that each is best in certain circumstances. That said, I acquired a good router long before I was able to buy a good table saw, and used a router for "everything" for far too long. In more recent years I have increasingly found that the table saw is my default tool: if something can be done on it, that's probably the best way to go. The smaller the job, the more likely I can save a couple of minutes by using a router. But while a router is laboring its way across a few inches of stock, my cabinet saw breezes through and is ready for the next piece. Much better table support, dust control, and less noise.

[@TheSkiggly]

How is it possible that every video you do is always packed with useful information. It's never a waste of my time to click your link. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

[@jimknowles5483]

Great vedio, thanks! If they are still in business Her-Saf the company who makes the excellent vertical panel router has router bits with replaceable insert carbide knives(one blade, 4 sharp edges). That were available in incremental sizes, say 3/4" both over and under. This allowed a single bit to fit undersized plywood or some "3/4" substrate that you glued formica to both sides. While these were single flute cutters....they cut well and didn't tear out. I always thought everything they had was brilliant..... just jim

[@Bluuplanet]

Before CAD, draftsmen often used a contraption containing pulleys and tiny cables called a "Parallel Bar" that did the same thing as a T-square except you couldnt tilt it out of square. Table saw fences are pretty much using T-square technology. Does anyone make one with pulleys and cables? (Maybe I'll make my own)

[@jraglob5924]

Another great video, by the way, I'm so old I remember when the Lions didn't suck, but I was very young then.

[@apitheous194]

At least you have a team that sucks my StL. lost the Cardinals and the Rams and then the XFL Battlehawks ugh!

[@kenzaleski5198]

There is one big factor your missing when it comes to fence setup, whether it be tablesaw or router table......that is INCRA! Absolutely is repeatable and super easy to take mere thousands ( and yes it is that accurate!! ) off of a workpiece without all the fidgeting a "normal" fence requires. Your 1/2 " router bit can in fact be used to make all the first passes, then all the second passes, or finish each dado completely, no other fence offers the repeatability or accuracy of incra. Even using the LS,( router only) fence system bolted to my extension wing, my old 1950's delta 8" homecraft tablesaw can cut within a few thousands of an inch over and over again. This sounds like a sales pitch, but if you've never looked at incra and you do serious woodworking, you need to. I'm just a hobbiest, but it has saved me time, and allowed me to create certain pieces that with a standard fence never could be done.

[@sandymclea]

Trying to figure out what's best for a 1inch dado cut that runs the length of the middle of a 3 meter x 8cm(4inch) strip... Probably a spindle moulder...lol

[@donclark2724]

I watched this after I had a dado dilemma and wondering if you had any insight for future. I have a ridge carbide dado set that I've done numerous book cases over years with 3/4 birch ply. I used a large incra sled, not my fence, to accommodate cutting numerous dados up to four feet from end of an 8 foot side wall board. This worked well but required special support on each end while sliding across saw. A customer asked me to make 7 foot shelves out of 1 inch poplar. I didn't give it a thought until I went to set up my stack and realized I could not get a full 1 inch with my set. Using all my chippers they would be 3/32 short. Though they did all fit my arbor. (I now see that if I acquired an extra 1/8 or 2 I could fit by removing the plate. Thanks). I was stuck then remembered an unused purchase from years ago. A dadowiz. Its no longer made, but it worked great. I could calibrate to my stock thickness and using a guide bar clamp, I set dadowiz on clamp, adjusting to its width and I set it to my pencil line and it allowed me to go back and forth with multiple passes with my 3/8 upcut bit using just one set up. Going forward this is my go to for thick stock. but im thinking for long boards with lots of dados it would also be easier than maneuvering my table saw on its mobile base and other accommodations I need to do to support both ends of an 8 foot board while pushing on my incra sled. have you ever used dado wiz or similar?

[@dell177]

Decades ago I had access to FR4 fiberglass sheets that varied from 1/64 to 1/8" thick.I cut a selection of strps so I could pad my router bit to whatever I might need. I usually used 3/4" oaply wood which was about 1/32 underside. I'd measure the stock that was going into the slots to make sure Ihad the correct size slot. I'd set up my edge guids and make the initial cu and then put whatever padding i needed against the guid I make my second cut. Once you got used to ths system it was pretty simple. For a bookcase you could do both sides of a bookcase with a single setup and you knew they were going to be good because you did both slots at the same time.

[@patrickbrady8326]

I have a question about routing plywood for a T-Track, the plywood has knots in it which I cannot avoid in my design. Without having to pay for premium plywood (that is pretty much Knotless) but twice the expense $$ how do you suggest getting a clean cut through knots in the wood or am I dreaming and it can't be done?

[@rogerrion5645]

Stumpy.....I could use a piece of advice. I'm building a table with curved legs and round drawers. I want the legs and drawer housing to have the same curvature. Therefore I need a convex curvature on the OD (from top to bottom) of the drawer housing. Since the housing is 12" round, I cannot figure out how to put the convex on its OD. I've watched videos on concave curvatures but on flat pieces. Any advice would be appreciated....

[@Dromfel]

This is seriously great channel. Your presentation and valuable experience are on point!

[@blacknorce]

I agree with you.... The lions only suck not really suck. I miss Barry Sanders. Go Pack Go!

[@stephenschell4329]

This is a great educational tutorial. It solidified a lot of the ideas that I had and will help me make better choices in future projects.

[@papparocket]

The advantage I have found with using a router to cut dados is that I can use a marking knife to make exact marks on either side of the actual board that goes in that slot. Then I use a bit that is at least a little more than 1/2 the width of the dado slot. For standard nominally 3/4" thick boards or plywood, I use a 1/2" bit. I make one pass where the bit just kissing one knife mark and cut one side of the slot. Then I slide the fence so that the opposite side of the bit just kisses the other knife mark. By have the bit be more than half the width of the slot, just two passes gives me a slot of _exactly_ the right width for that particular piece of wood that has to fit into it. This also lets me reduce the number of bits I need. I find that a 5/16" and a 9/16" bit (both with 1/4" shanks so I can use my trim router) lets me cut daddos from 5/16" to 1" wide. And with just two bits to cut a wide range of dado widths, I can afford to get the fancy *astra* coated (whatever that is) carbide bits that are around $40 each. Of course you can do the same thing with a table saw. But unless you take the time to swap out a regular saw blade with angled tops on the teeth for a blade with flat top teeth, you have to use a chisel or router plane to clean up the little "V" grooves a standard blade leaves behind. I would much rather swap router bits than table saw blades all the time.

[@georgeprout42]

Dado sets aren't an option for me, so it's router or tracksaw. And I've just realised that I need to make a jig so that I can use my router with my track. Maybe not right now, it's midnight 🤷‍♂️

[@karenstein8261]

Using the saw can be quicker, but : The router is safer. The router is easier for small pieces. The router can make curved dados. Note: I’m referring to a hand held router, not one mounted in a table. The hardest part is setting up your guides, especially for multiple bases. Consider a blend: Saw to make the edge cuts, and router to hog out the middle. Biggest router error? Cutting too deep in a pass.

[@tvkimslifetv8609]

I never had dado blades. I'm curious what's difference between dado blades and stacking different 10" blades together?

[@henrysiegertsz8204]

Router Dados either in a table or using a fence are harder to get consistency than a Table saw. I live in the UK and had to but a US made Cabinet saw so I could use a Dado set, I bought from a US e-Bay seller. I only use my tablesaw for straight Dados. The Router can do something a tablesaw Dado setup can't, i.e., it can make curved Dados by using a bearing guided bit and a template.

[@jimaspinii7579]

Thanks! Again, another home run!! I especially appreciate the tips on using a router for dados since I don’t own a table saw. You do GREAT work!!

[@jeffweber8244]

On a recent tall bookshelf build, I had to abandon using the dado stack due to size of the pieces. I was making a real mess of the dados. Switched to a regular clamp-on edge guide and a router with carbide bit, which made a huge improvement. I don't know if I'll ever fuss with the dado stack again.

[@burntsider8457]

Good comparison of dado methods. I find it easier to fine-adjust depth with a router table. Router bits make a smoother bottom to the dado. I'm reluctant to tie up my TS by using a dado set. In short, I look to the router table first If I'm making many dados, I'll consider the TS.

[@tomhoyer2313]

hi SN, Get an Incra router table and fence. Also use a Eurekazone SSRK jig. These are light years ahead of these methods. Save on labor.

[@DR-mg9ge]

If my memory serves, which is questionable at times, you did a cool tool review of the Micro Jig Dado Stop. Does using this make the Table saw more palatable or is it just a gimmick?

[@ravenheart1439]

So many ways to do datos, I wish they would just make ply what its supposed to be, if it's 3/4 make it 3/4 and lots of problems solved lol ..

[@markflajsner9944]

Living in Europe, people often say that dados are illegal, but as far as I'm aware that is not the case. It is not the dado blade itself which causes the difficulty but the fact that the blades are unguarded with the riving knife etc removed for the dado to work. In a professional environment you have to have some sort of guard to be considered legal; however this regulation rightly or wrongly does not apply to the home amateur environment, so you can use them without a guard - obviously it would be advisable to make some sort of protective guard. There is one other complication in that under EU law, table saw blades must stop with 10 seconds after hitting the stop button, for most table saws that's not a problem and even with the added weight of a dado setup, there shouldn't be a problem there either. I think for most people the issues are more of having a powerful enough saw motor and that the arbor is long enough to accommodate multiple blades.

[@pawpawstew]

Thanks, James. That's a great review of the options as well as the pros and cons of each. Obviously different materials affect feed rates, but given the same material, do you notice a difference in the required feed rate to ensure a clean cut and minimal chip-out? Also between the rouer bit and the dado stack, and provided you have a good sharp cutting edge, do you notice one gives you less chip-out than another?

[@anonymousperson4363]

How about a combination of both? First, cutting the majority out with the table saw, with a dado blade or regular blade, and then finish it with a router. Yes, I know more time consuming.

[@Wyman642]

Late to this video, but can someone explain why he didn’t run the first router cuts through on all boards, adjust the fence, and then run all the boards through again? He stated that while the width of the dados would be the same, the distance from the fence (edge?) would not be. I must be missing something because it seems to me the distances would be the same assuming we are dealing with identically wide boards to start with.

[@nicholasmanovich4330]

For those that are unaware, catiwompus is a technical term meaning wonky....hope that clears things up.

[@CNCnStuff]

I'm sure you're already aware of this, but 7:34 in your video appears to show some pretty dodgy wiring to your "outdoor" circular saw!

[@bryandavies6074]

Hand routing is messy? Try a Festool Of2200.

[@danradichel4290]

Anybody else notice the Jay Bates (Jays Custom Creations) coozie?

[@Wintersandman]

I am curious why you wouldn't use the measuring guide to adjust the fence for the extra quarter inch.

[@tedalmeida]

Loved the question: Do the Detroit Lions suck, or do they Really Suck?

[@Matthew-ir1ed]

nice comparison, but you left out the fact that routers can make stopped dados that don't go all the way to the end of a board. Like when you're making a floating bottom for a box

[@OnePotMeals]

Gotta tell you I forgot about this insight in this video today. I was cutting a dado, really a slot, on my router table. For the second pass, to get the slot wide enough, I moved the fence closer to the bit. Not a good idea.

[@gary_stavropoulos]

If you think of it as a shallow mortise that goes across the work piece you can cut them by hand. This method is preferred by people who are paid by the hour.

[@drodver]

Love the pencil hidden inside the fence @8:05 followed with the next shot showing the set of spare pencils in your apron. Wonder how long that pencil took to find.

[@dus10dnd]

Why not reverse your multiple passes and use a shim between your material and the fence?

[@versatileduplicity9313]

5:42 I do something very similar to that when cutting my leg designs on a table saw. Mine can’t take a 1 inch wide dado

[@ScottCleve33]

What I like to do, when I can, is if I need to plane down wood to fit into a dado I usually cut my dado first at a set width and then plane the piece that fits into it to a size that will fit into it snugly. I find it easier to adjust my planer and run the wood through again to fit the dado rather than the other way around.

[@heystarfish100]

So basically it’s like guns, you need all of them. 🤣

[@converyds]

The Detroit Lions don’t suck anymore. 🔥

[@garrywall8438]

Hello I was wondering can I use the same break cartridge on my saws top table saw thanks

[@AlesEveryday]

Awesome! Thanks for the videos

[@sheepdog819]

Can you do a video on portable table saws like you did for routers? I know you reccomend a hybrid but,I'm one of those folks that are tight on work space and have only $1,000 to spend. I bought the Dewalt DWE791RS to get me by until we move. Too many videos out there but, everyone is very biased. I have a couple weeks left until it arrives, wondering if I should cancel.

[@lafamillecarrington]

How about using an undersized router bit and then trimming the edge that fits into the dado to size?

[@Itslvle]

In Europe it's a bit tricky to get a dado-set. It's not that dado blades are not allowed, but rather that all table saw blades (in professional use) must have an electric brake to quickly stop the blade from spinning after it's been turned off. The idea is that you can't get lost in your thoughts and end up putting a work piece or even you hand on the blade while it's winding down (or at least that's how I've understood the logic behind it). If you use a fast electric brake on an American style dado set, it might work the lock-nut loose when braking quickly (i.e. accelerating counter-clockwise) and suddenly you have a set of angry, free roaming dado blades. And so European dado sets have to be designed differently making them more expensive, and since they're more expensive to make, less people tend to buy them so up the price goes some more. The arbors are shorter so you can't mount a non-brakeable dado-set on. Now there are no laws against getting a longer arbor for your own personal use, but you have to get it custom-made and no one here sells the American-style dado-sets anyway so you have to order them overseas so most won't bother. I ended up biting the bullet and just getting the expensive, European style dado set. For those interested, you can google image search "Hammer 500-03-021" to have a look-see how they're different.

[@rodneybosch7290]

I don't know if you have done a video on lathe work? Can you do one. More of the hearing it to the table and the floor if I have to be?

[@darylboggs2917]

Enjoyed this as usual, but I was hoping you would address the quality of cut--especially for e.g. tearout, in various materials. Years ago I cut a 3/4" dado for a miter strip in a melamine table top. The chipping along the edge was more than I would have liked. It was so long ago I don't even remember whether I cut it with a router or table saw. Which would be better if I do it again? What if it is plywood, or plywood with plastic laminate?

[@brianpeters6176]

As a fellow lions fan, I can tell you that the lions really suck...

[@mikespaulding1118]

This year the Lions almost don’t suck!

[@Tool-Meister]

Check out the DadowizTM - Precision Dado Jig. It solves many router dado issues. Had mine for years. I’ve used it for virtually all quick-and-not-so-dirty dados since I bought it. I’ve also used my Incra Jig for positioning my table saw fence and find it fast and dead-nuts accurate allowing me to cut any width dado or groove with a 1/4l dado stack. Works same way on a router table but the Dadowiz is even faster if you want to use a router.

[@AndrewVisscher]

Do you not still use any of those router dado jigs from your past videos? It looked fairly quick to just set one to the width of the dado needed & clamp it in place, but I'm kind of curious how they held up.

[@StumpyNubs]

I mostly use my edge guide (the one in this video) for handheld router dados. But we make homemade jigs like the one you refer to for the benefit of our audience who prefer a homemade or less expensive solution.

[@AndrewVisscher]

Ah, ok, thanks. I've been going the jig route with circular saw tracks and next will be a long router dado jig as a custom mixture of yours + what someone else did for some long 1.25" thick shelves. I don't post a lot, so I wanted to also add a thanks for all your past videos, where I've learned quite a bit.

[@stevevw34]

Your videos I think are the best and to the point thank you 👍👍👍

[@thegardenofeatin5965]

I tend to use my router table for grooves and my table saw for dados. 1. Things that fit in grooves, like panel door panels, drawer bottoms etc. are usually intended to float a little to allow the wood to expand and contract, so a slightly oversized fit is desired, and that's pretty much exactly what I get from my quarter inch router bit. 2. 3/4 inch dados for plywood or dimensional lumber usually have to be dialed in, which is more practical with a dado set. 3. Plowing out half-lap joints is more practical on a table saw. 4. A lot of the projects I do involve a quarter inch groove, and several 3/4 inch dados. It's just easier for me to set up two tools for those different operations.

[@Myopicvisions]

Since I only have a jobsite saw, I rely heavily on my router for dados. Not having experience with dado stacks, I'm envious. Hopefully I'll get a cabinet saw one day, and be able to compare the two methods myself.

[@versatileduplicity9313]

Answer is, you can’t win. Each one takes some sort of time

[@malonecustomdesigns]

Any tips on getting a router table fence squared up? My table saw fence locks into pins that are square to the blade, but my router table fence is just all over the place.

[@Sillyturner]

A router table fence is always square or parallel to the bit no matter what angle you set it at.

[@StumpyNubs]

It doesn't have to be square because the bit is round. That's why I adjusted my fence by loosening only one end and pivoting from the other.

[@malonecustomdesigns]

Stumpy Nubs light bulb 💡 moment for me! I just got my router and router table and that was driving me crazy!!! Lol 😂 thank you.

[@drpainsjourney]

Oh, what a shame. I was really locking forward to learn about this topic. But, no subtitles enabled. And since I am nearly deaf, I don't get enough information out of this video. PLEASE, dear Stumpy Nubs, PLEASE enable subtitles. KZbin make them, you just need to enable it. I don't know if you can do it afterward. Anyone? So I sadly can't give thumps up on your else great video.

[@StumpyNubs]

I don't know why KZbin didn't auto-subtitle this video. It's not a matter of just turning them on.

[@AuronFFX]

I personally prefer the router for this. But then again I only have an 8 1/4" table saw. It only takes wobble dados. The plunge router makes smoother grooves than the wobble blade. For some reason they no longer make wobble blades so I got mine off Kijiji.

[@tedcook8749]

“A tablesaw fence is super-fast to set” lol - not in my shop! Great video - especially the ideas for varying router dadoes.

[@RobertBarth1]

Ah, hello fellow owner of a garbage table saw fence.

[@tedcook8749]

Thanks Paul, I’ve looked at that saw (online) - I just want something a little more powerful, like something that will at least fully utilize todays 20A 120 v circuits. I use a festool ts55 for most work now in my tiny garage, but if one of these nice jobsite/ folding saws comes out with more power and still handles a dadoe I’ll be all over it. I see many people making really good use of these judging from youtube and pinterest!

[@brianyee7840]

I use two of the three methods here. The dado stack I have not tried yet. I did outfit my router table with a 17 inch LS Positioner, which gives me some width capacity and adjustments are simple, I can dial in 1/64 inch increments moving the fence backwards and forwards for the right fit. For long cabinet sides, I use a dado jig or a simple locking guide for setting the dados. I like the speed of the table saw, but as I said have not ventured there yet.

[@timdouglass9831]

I have cut a lot of dados using a straight board clamped right on the edge (or one on each edge) of the actual dado then using a top-bearing guided bit. You don't have to calculate offsets and if you put a board on each side you don't have to worry about wandering away from the line and can cut any strange width you need, just use a piece of your material to space your two guide boards. It may be a bit of a hack, but it's worked well for me. Actually I think that the bit I normally use is a hinge mortising bit that I got 40 years ago or so.

[@mattberg916]

Thanks for the good information. And you live in a country where you can't use a table saw....you should probably move

[@philmininni5981]

I had a need for a 1/4" rabbet for a picture frame and had a heck of a problem with my router table set up. I was trying to use a 1/4" bit. For the life of me i could not get an accurate cut, trying to set my fence up. I found using a larger rabbet (1/2") bit and found it much easier to set my fence accurately for a nuts on 1/4" rabbet. Looked at a previous video from stumpy nubs to set my mind straight .

[@johnczeiszperger1994]

I am a professional cabinet maker. I use the Freud Dial a width dado set. For semi-production work, the table saw is the hands down winner. Down side is the Freud set is pricey unless you have the volume to justify it.

[@nonobrochacho240]

I’m kind of curious about something. I am sure you’ve seen the saw stop table saw extension which had a router in it. This extension comes with a standard router fence (which is split in the middle like a normal router fence, because then you can do the ends of stock). What if you removed this router fence and used your normal table saw fence? This would make for lightening fast adjustments with a really awesome fence and would solve the capacity problem along with the noise, dust collection (because you could fit dust collection under the table), danger, and set up time issues with both the table saw and router. I don’t think it’s quite as fast as a radial arm saw but way safer and better than both dados and standard router, I think. What do you think of doing that?

[@camaro375]

I really like the tip/trick with the router table fence. I do not currently have a dado stack but do you know how it would perform in melamine or white liner plywood. I have only got good results no chipping using a 80 cross cut blade. Thanks