The Bowling Setup Position EXPLAINED! Pro Tip to Improve Your Game.

[@willwebber6496]

Another excellent tip! Can we get freeze frames of how Coach Mike should be on each step of his approach as well? I know it's tough to hold the ball in those positions, but those pointers would be great as well. Thanks for all of the info!

[@insidebowling]

Thanks for your comments and thanks for watching our videos, we appreciate it. The specific ball/swing positions on each step could be different for different bowlers based on their type of game and timing. Generally bowlers with higher backswings will tend to have their balls into their swing sooner/further on each step to then allow time for the higher swing.

[@fishfinder4]

is that for a 5step approach??? what about 4step? would you use the same stance

[@insidebowling]

Yes, the same basic stance would be used with both the 5 step and the 4 step approach. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching our videos!

[@jenniferhoang6517]

Can you please do a video on how to use different hand positions?

[@delhume2691]

Where do you stand? Or where should you start ? This is a basic question, but I ask because it impacts my spare shots. I have listened to various videos that always adjust from the point you stand for your first ball.

[@jayvallandingham2406]

The strike game and the spare game are two different aspects of the game. Most high average bowlers have a urethane or a polyurethane ball to shoot most of their spares. The only exception in most cases is spares that have most of the key strike pins still standing or sleeper pins. The 2-4-5-8, 3-5-6-9, 2-8 or 3-9 your try to convert with your strike ball. Everything else you should try to convert with your spare ball targeting the center arrow. Start by standing on board 35 with you left foot a target the 10 pin using the center arrow. Then adjust 3 boards right for the 6 pin, 6 boards right for the 3 or the 9 pin and strike ball for the 1 or 5 pins. Of course you could use you spare ball to cover these as well. For the 7 pin stand on 15 board with your left foot and target center arrow for the 7 pin. Move left 3 boards for the 4 pin, 6 boards for the 2-8 pins. Make sure to walk straight with you shoulders slightly turned towards the 10 pin and all spares on the right side of the lane. If you walk towards the right side spares your body will have a tendency to get in the way of your swing and you'll end up pushing the ball to the right and miss the spare. Left side spares you want to walk slightly toward the pins you're trying to make but don't overdo it. Try to get the feeling that you're rolling the ball up the lane rather than straight at the pin. Roll straight at the pin, the pin has a tendency to move when the ball gets close. Practice this technique and you can use it in any bowling center you go to. Spare balls take out the guess work for shooting spares. Learn the system and you'll start converting more single pin spares with more confidence at the same time increasing your average.

[@lazyarrow]

I use Jay Vallandingham's system almost identically; the difference being the left side spares, I usually stand on 9 or 10th board, and shoot across the 3rd arrow at the 7 pin, moving 3 boards left with the feet for each pin to the right of the 7. Either system is easy to figure out and use. Also, the 10 pin starting position with the feet sometimes needs a slight adjustment; that is to say, if the lanes are on the dry side, this starting point (35th board) may be appropriate, but if the center (4th arrow) of the lanes are slick, a slight bump right with the feet of about 5 boards or so (30th board) may be needed in order for the ball to not slide into the gutter from that angle. This spare system works best with a plastic ball (urethane good too) that is rolled straight, and just like it's important to find a good strike line during practice, it's equally vital to figure out what the center of the lane is allowing for spare shooting.

[@jayvallandingham2406]

@@lazyarrow Absolutely ! The main point is to have a starting point where you can throw a normal shot and have a realistic chance of converting simple spares in any bowling center or on any bowling pattern. Yes there are times where you might have to adjust your foot location on the approach but at least you'll have a spot to start and the target arrow to get you in the ballpark. Most spares using this method are easily done because they look right visually before making the shot. The only reason sparea are missed is because of execution or putting way too much thought into the shot.

[@lazyarrow]

@@jayvallandingham2406 Couldn't agree more. Too often bowlers get out of their shoes when they shoot at the 10 pin, and end up whiffing it badly. Nice and easy always does it.

[@jayvallandingham2406]

@@lazyarrow Yes it's crazy...trying throw 20 MPH with a ball that's not going to hook if at all. A normal shot with good execution will go along ways without trying to break pins. Most people that have problems converting spares destroy their timing by trying to reach out while trying to hit their target arrow. The farther the ball gets out onto the lane the more likely you'll hit up on the ball or pull the ball dead left of target. Getting the ball on the lane a foot past the foul line is where your hand is a close to square to your target as humanly possible. I changed this release awhile ago and started to see a mass improvement on hitting what I was looking at. Try getting the feeling that you're trying to roll the ball into the lane a foot past the foul line and see if you have a better release where the ball feels like it's rolling off your hand and narrows your miss room at your target. Feels weird but it works...