The California 14ers: North Palisade U Notch Chimney Solo | West via Palisade Basin

Hi everyone. This was my climb of North Palisade - approaching from Bishop Pass, camping in the Palisade Basin, and going up the U-Notch west couloir. If I'm not mistaken, the route I took was the Southwest variation of the Chimney where, the second pitch goes up and left - it's easier than the 5.6 going straight up. There was quite a bit of exposure along this section.
Early August, 2021.
0:10 Intro
0:51 Bishop Pass Trail
1:51 Top of Bishop Pass
3:13 Top of Thunderbolt Pass
4:10 Day 2
4:26 Base of West Couloir of U Notch
5:44 Top of the U Notch
6:11 Begin ascent of the Chimney (NorthEast side)
10:31 Going up & left from rap station
15:32 Exiting Chimney
17:42 Entering "The Bowl"
19:18 Shortly Traversing the ridge
20:35 Pointing out approximate final path
24:53 Reaching the summit
27:14 Begin rappel down Chimney

[@notfool1722]

When stationed at Edwards AFB in the early 70s (I'M 77), I camped at a small lake below those mountains. I climbed to the main glacier but stopped there as I had no experience at anything like you did. Hiking was sort of at it's beginnings then, and I was kooked. So visited many areas in the Sierra's, but the Palisade has haunted me for the past 50 years. I've bored my wife stiff by bringing it up over and over. This winter, every day that California was getting clobbered by snow, I would zero in on the Palisades radar to watch. Now, I discovered your video. WOW! I have now checked off an item on my bucket list, although not actually doing anything. Thank you SO much for the great video, your humor, and fixing my itch. (Your other video on Middle Palisade, the ending, was emotional and felt! It first, I thought you were referring to Onion Valley, but caught on.) Great job.

[@seananderson5450]

Good job! Your carabiner was compromised. Mark it with red tape and never use it in a lead protection use it to rack your equipment. Good and thoughtful for not leaving it behind for someone to get potentially killed on it. Luck will be on your side.😉

[@thelonehiker4698]

You deserve a lot more than 6k views for risking your life climbing that mountain

[@davidrosenberg4676]

Great videos, like the human element of it and can feel the difficulty as it is happening.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Thank you, David! Happy to share the experience

[@pauldavis4287]

Wow…that was some serious climbing, it made my palms sweat just watching it. Great video!

[@Schmiddy1911]

You dont need biners or rappel rings to rap off alpine routes. Just thread the rope around all the slings (after you've checked them of course) and you're good to go. Also, you should learn how to build a makeshift rappel device via a munter should you ever drop your ATC.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Enjoy the video! 0:10 Intro 0:51 Bishop Pass Trail 1:51 Top of Bishop Pass 3:13 Top of Thunderbolt Pass 4:10 Day 2 4:26 Base of West Couloir of U Notch 5:44 Top of the U Notch 6:11 Begin ascent of the Chimney (NorthEast side) 10:31 Going up & left from rap station 15:32 Exiting Chimney 17:42 Entering "The Bowl" 19:18 Shortly Traversing the ridge 20:35 Pointing out approximate final path 24:53 Reaching the summit 27:14 Begin rappel down Chimney

[@mrwasatch]

Came upon your videos today - compliments on the high quality and great job narrating! I climbed Whitney and a few Colorado 14ers in my younger years, never got to peaks like North Palisade or Williamson, your videos cover them very well!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Never got to those peaks yet but.. will you at some point? =) Which CO 14ers have you been on? Thanks for the feedback MrWasatch!

[@mrwasatch]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 Elbert, Massive, Evans and Sneffels, only Sneffels was really scrambling... others were mostly walk ups. Hardest peaks I've done are some class 3 in the Wasatch, but they look pretty tame after seeing your videos!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

​@@mrwasatch It's not always about the difficulty though, right! That's awesome, thanks for sharing. Did you do Elbert and Massive on the same trip? (They look somewhat nearby)

[@mrwasatch]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 I did them on separate trips but they can be done together as they share a common trailhead.

[@sluggotinfantryman]

Really nicely done. Good pace and not to much talking. 4k is awesome. For those of us who can't go anymore thanks.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Thank you for the feedback. Anymore - why not? (if you don't mind me asking)

[@sluggotinfantryman]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 Well I guess I could but 3 knee replacements. Back neck lol. Might take 4 days though.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@sluggotinfantryman Dang, don't tell me the 3 knee replacements are from lots of miles hiking

[@kawai_marin_photos]

This is so legit dude I can’t wait to try this in August ! Love your videos

[@14erfinisher52]

Excellent video Bro! I can't wait to do this climb in the coming years. It looks... WOW!

[@nickkowalczyk7644]

Love the video! Your energy is unmatched!

[@bobbywest8864]

Lots of exposure good job dude

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Hi Bobby, yes this is one of my favorite, smoother-going trips so far. Thanks for watching!

[@bradleybeler3135]

Thanks again for the water and food my dude!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Yo Brad! T'was nothin. I hope everything is well man 🛩✈

[@driftsc3]

Yeah, man, you saved us for sure! Let me know if you want to try climbing sometime! Looks like you already figured out the moves. You're definitely more bold in the mountains than I am!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@driftsc3 Oh! If I remember correctly, Brad said it was, Bryan? I hope the rest of the JMT went smooth! Always open to climbing man

[@layers442]

Holy shit! You are a hardcore.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

It was an awesome adventure 🤙

[@Ericxnugz]

that climb was gnarly bro

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

It was a bit more active than some of the other peaks for sure =)

[@Uncommonsensetoo]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. Great view of the glacier from the top. I'd love to do this one as well, if I dare ;-)

[@hsw6998]

Respect!!! Superman....❤

[@karlbe8414]

Your bravery compelled me to subscribe. I am thinking of Langley as my next 14'r, nothing like what you were on, thankfully. For a while I kept wondering what that rope was for as I did not see you put in any protection, but then you descended, asso...

[@TVinmyEye]

Dude! You’re fkn amazing haha. Hardest 14er i’ve done Solo is Mount Sill from The Palisade Glacier. This is gnarly

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Nice, the gf and I climbed sill from the other side. Which route did you take? I'd like to try the Swiss Arete route some day, when climbing skills are more developed. Porcella/Burns' book calls it "one of the finest in the Sierra Nevada"

[@TVinmyEye]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 I took the north fork trail to glacier notch. So the north side. Sick Dude! Just found your IG sent you a friend requesr

[@garfield8900]

Good video, there is an easier way, when your almost to the top of the chute, or gully there is a bench or catwalk off to the left off the ground a couple two or three ft. It actually runs downhill away from the summit But curves back around to another chute that takes you to the summit. A little bit of 5th class, not much though. There a cool little keyhole you have to craw though right before the summit. Happy climbing!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Is that the Le Conte route? I did read about it and was looking for "the ledge" for future reference. Also, someone was descending from the direction you mention, and they described it the same way, having a bit of 5th class. Definitely a consideration for another trip 🤙 Thank you for the input

[@davedavis5809]

Thanks for sharing, im old and busted up i appreciate the ride ... Hey i stare at rocks and i cant get to these no mo.. chk it out . Youre climbing the largest crater in the solar system. Not what popular paradigm says but theyre wrong im the isaac newton of geology bringing sanity back. This mtn isnt alone you see there was a several arms of debris coming across the Pacific in the fracture zones the one that hit California 400 miles wide at what is now the San Joaquin valley. There was some coming up from the south heading east Northeast so the southern end of the Sierras are pretty ground down especially from the south and Southwest but there's evidence some came from up North too all part of the same arms of debris the key is the fracture zones they were caused by this so they point to which way it was going so there's north south oriented ridges broken up by large amounts of debris hitting it at a 45 as the Moon progressed across what is now the Pacific skidding at least as much if not more than rolling hence the 6767mi long 1500 mi wide conentrations of mass under the pacific and a 3500 mile long lunar mares.this debris was like a lahar, boiling along gouging out 10,000 ft of ocean floor until it collided with its own primary shock wave coming back the other way and followed by more waves of course but that's how I think it happened the more I look into this like I have been for the last 25 years the more sure I am in fact I recently changed my stance on tectonics and dates that they give since the dates are in direct correlation to distance from the center of a crater or the center of the debris field so I think there's something to do with the radiation there anyways this is testable unlike tectonics that calls mountain building processes horizontal faulting say that it repeat that to yourself and let it sink in horizontal faulting no it's not a fault it's a landslide there's no such thing as earthquakes hahaha there's no such thing as tectonics

[@steventhaw3765]

Thanks for posting. Dragging your pack?! Did both sides. From the West Le Conte / "cat walk" and from the East up the couloir to the U notch then climb over a much easier way to the summit! Two raps to the U Notch and down the couloir to the toe of Palisade glacier camp.

[@mickeybrumfield764]

Great video, don't think I'll be doing that 14er anytime soon though.

[@dmbeaster]

From the top of the chimney to the summit, approach on the left side of ridge. Not the right as in the video. I see that you switched back, but still stayed on top of ridge, which is harder. The chute down left is the LeConte route to the catwalk - a great line.

[@steventhaw3765]

A backup for your rappels and knots at the ends? !

[@phillyjr]

mad respect!!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

She was a beastly one. Thank you!

[@duarte1082]

Amazing 🙌🙌

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Thank you for watching!

[@Chubkiins]

This literally had my palms sweating lol. Thanks for filming and braving these adventures! Doing the things most of us can’t and it’s really awesome to get to experience it through ur vids💛

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Very happy to be sharing these experiences! Thank you for watching Michelle, and I appreciate you taking the time!

[@blazed1945]

Your a beast dude

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

It was a helluva trip. Thanks for watching!

[@dmbeaster]

Interesting admission about amateur climbing skills. You scramble well, but there are better moves. The Clyde variation at the U Notch is better for those with lower climbing skills than the chimney. Good advice about the traverse from Bishop Pass to Thunderbolt Col. You can stay below the talus but above the lakes on easy slab terrain. You lose around 200 feet, and then climb up 600 as you approach the Col. That climb is mostly on slabs and grass, except for the last bit.

[@dmbeaster]

The pan at 5:18 I believe shows the start of the catwalk on the north wall.

[@scottfulton267]

I love your videos! This is the fourth one I've watched since yesterday. I'm 52 and suddenly have this renewed interest in bagging fourteeners while I am still sorta young. Isn't it a great moment, like at 25:07, when you see that USGS marker? I'm not sure if I would do this route up North Palisade unless I was with someone very experienced.

[@dufferinseng7188]

after chimney, is LeConte Route? the rappel down looks cool and fun. congratulations!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

If by Le Conte route, you mean "the original ascent route climbed by Joseph N. Le Conte, James Hutchinson, and J.K. Moffitt on July 25, 1903", after looking at a map and the 14ers book again (Steve porcella, route #2), yes I believe it is the "Le Conte route" that connects with the Chimney route in "the bowl" The rappel was a bit scary at first, but definitely fun. Thank you!

[@fugley100]

I'm 57 and will be doing the same route on or about 6/24/22.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Awesome Blake, that's next week! So far the weather says - a few clouds over the weekend, but looks pretty good. Hope it remains that way for your trip =) I'd love to hear how it goes!

[@schmeebot7903]

Good work! Did you happen to glance behind you before the move at 24:40? You styled it with the gloves. Be careful out there!

[@dmbeaster]

The Le Conte route and the catwalk is a great alternative, or you can do both going up and down.

[@brewcider]

trying to read the comments but i can't use the mouse scroll wheel since my fingers are so sweaty

[@aakumarc]

Awesome, dizzying video! Did you learn rock climbing in the bay area ? If so, please let me know a good place to start 🙏

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Hi Arun, thank you for watching 🤙 To answer your question, is a bit difficult - in short, I'd say yes, because I grew up here. But, I can't say I've learned rock climbing by training a lot at any specific places. I've never climbed at a gym, and have only top roped a handful of times. My technique on mid+ class 5 is probably at an amateur level (I only learned about counter balancing on youtube several months ago 😄). Many of the things I've been able to climb have just been from being aware of what kind of movements I'm able to do - for example "would I be able to pull myself up that?" What I'd suggest, depending on your current abilities - climbing with someone experienced and at a climbing gym might give be the safest / a place where you can really accelerate in developing your skills. What part of the bay area are you from? If not indoors, some spots for top rope are Goat Rock in Castle Rock state park, and Boy Scout Rocks in Mt Diablo state park. There's also a spot on the north side of Pacifica state beach, but the cliff eats into your rope in my opinion. Always check the anchors 👌 I hope this helps; any more questions - please ask!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Oh! Another spot that was quite enjoyable, staying low and practicing basic counter balancing - Panther beach. There's a cliff facing the ocean and one can climb all along it, not even having to climb high. Viv and I stayed no more than 5 feet high, traversing left and right above the sand. Take care though as some of the rock is sandstone ish and smooth while other parts crumble. Aside from climbing, it's one of my favorite beaches. Cheers!

[@ListlessSilence]

I see you mentioned that your rope was 60m but what type of rope was it? Static dynamic, and what diameter?

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Hey thanks for watching. It was an 8.1mm dynamic rope

[@ListlessSilence]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 if you don’t mind me asking who makes it? Just curious. Also was it a twin/half or a single?

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@ListlessSilence Sure thing - IIRC, it's from black diamond, likely an older model

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@ListlessSilence Regarding twin/half or a single - sorry I have no idea

[@ListlessSilence]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 no worries, thanks for the info! Really enjoyed the video btw.

[@gurgferguson292]

👀first time grappling!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Hi Gurg, thanks for watching. Grappling?

[@xxuncexx]

Damn that was dizzying for me watching. I feel claustrophobic too when I'm on cliff sides. Excellent footage though! Glad you didn't fall to your death. What city are you from; do you live near this area?

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Thanks for the feedback & input on these videos! I'm in the bay area; it's quite a drive but always worth it 🤙

[@xxuncexx]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 I’m assuming you cut through Yosemite. Honestly I think the parts deeper in Yosemite NP look way more scenic than the Valley.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@xxuncexx Yep, the 120 right through, if not 108 for a change of scenery. I probably haven't been to these deeper parts of Yosemite, are you referring to just north of the valley and north of 120? I'd like to backpack Clouds Rest, but that may be similar to going toward half dome. Any suggestions on a good area to explore?

[@xxuncexx]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 I just mean the drive through 120, next to a body of water there was a really nice looking valley. Clouds Rest is a great day trip. It’s cool to see Yosemite valley from the backside. Half dome was neat too. Lots of people. Milestone mountain looks really cool, I’ve been thinking about it. Also I was watching these other hikers, livehardlovehard, and Utah and Colorado has some really cool different sites to see.

[@xxuncexx]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 Also the Kaweahs via the High Sierra Trail

[@levinelson3508]

You should save up and go climb the mattahorn. Don’t think you would have an issue. Also good videos. You should have subscribors

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

The Matterhorn is on the radar, hopefully some day :) Thank you for the feedback!

[@trwent]

21:24, “I see a Karen, so I’m going to go this way.” Good idea, stay AWAY from those Karens!!

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

😂

[@wellseasonedhiker]

Solo? Man, you got cajones.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Was just on a mission brotha. Fellow SV local?

[@wellseasonedhiker]

@@outerskirtshiking8141 Yes sir... you remind me of when I was a kid. :-) That's a good thing....

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

@@wellseasonedhiker Just a fellow adventurer 🤘

[@levinelson3508]

Dude that climb was sketch. So much exposure.

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Yeah it definitely got the the heart rate up a bit! Thanks for watching, Levi

[@MrDUKE375]

That was sketchy af… first time rapping a route ? Glad you made it…. Pls consider getting some training to go along w yr brass balls

[@-alpenglow-]

I second this comment. As a former climber myself, I highly recommend really knowing what your are doing to be safe climbing. My brother died rappelling down North Pal in 1979 after climbing it solo. He set up his rappel on an old piton that pulled out and sent him tumbling 1500 ft down Palisade Glacier. I do appreciate the opportunity to see so much detail of the beautiful place. Thanks for sharing your video.

[@a-project-96]

...

[@outerskirtshiking8141]

Hi there, hope you enjoyed the video!

[@josetejada320]

All mountains are petrified giant wood stumps all minerals xome from these tree stumps you can confirm these, by watching hangman videos and also biblical trees on you tube

[@hugmynutus]

The fact that Norman Clyde did this shit with big ass boots, free solo, and carrying 60lbs of gear is just WTF.