The CRAZIEST Cluster You Have EVER Seen! (Ford Escape)

This 2012 Ford Escape has 56k miles on the odometer.
It's suffering from some MAJOR electrical glitches:
1) The instrument cluster has a mind of its own
2) Battery drains overnight
3) A/C doesn't work
4) Headlights come on on their own
5) Can't open liftgate with the key on
Let's take a logical approach and use the appropriate tools plus the patented "Keith Tap Test" to narrow down the source of the problem.
Will parts be required?
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Enjoy!
Ivan

[@2aminitials]

New drinking game - take a sip of beer every time Ivan taps on the car's dash.

[@johnmccallum8512]

I can't drink that fast

[@PassiveDestroyer]

That's not a drinking game, that's just chugging.

[@roberthickey1465]

Boy, that turned out to be a real cluster f**k ... Someone had to say it :)

[@brynnond.6952]

I remember my networking teacher always stressing this to us in class. He always said “If something isn’t working check for the three c’s. Connection, connection, connection!!!”

[@atrahasis3899]

You're clearly unfamiliar with Ford's patented DashTap(tm) switch technology.

[@throttlebottle5906]

the planned obsolescence trigger has tripped LOL

[@psdaengr911]

Planned obsolescence is not funny. Its a major cause of global environmental decline. It was tripped for the electronics industry in the 1950s and its "technology" has now totally infected the automotive industry. This is encouraged by our government to drive consumption regardless of consequences, and a motivator for ever-increasing mandated "safety" equipment that has a exponentially declining return on consumer investment. If you believe that EVs will be less expensive for our society to have lower total product lifetime cost of ownership and operation, you will be disappointed.

[@billkaczynski7709]

I love the way Ivan’s mind works, he is always searching for the root cause of the problem! Plus knowing how to find and use the right tools to identify and solve the problems. He is definitely not a parts changer! Thanks Ivan for always putting the customers first.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

I appreciate the comment, Bill 🙂

[@psdaengr911]

I also like Ivan's generic methodology. But in this specific case the cause could have been identified and resolved without using computerized tools. Electronic components (not electrical connections to them) are rarely effected consistently and intermittently by gross mechanical movements or vibration.

[@scroberts9316]

Now that was a really cool case study and fix. Awesome job Ivan!

[@rosebankalumni]

Great no parts fix! My father in law has the 2010 version. Had a similar problem on a 2011 2500hd with radio's aux button. Turned off and on intermittently. Took it apart found and repaired a cold solder joint. Love your vids Ivan, I'm learning a lot

[@bostedtap8399]

Great diagnosis and repair Ivan. With free AC repair!!!!!! Thanks for sharing. Best regards from the UK. John.

[@likearockcm]

Double bonus video !!!!!! I'm all giggly over here. Nice work ,Ivan!

[@phillloyd8625]

Another amazing PHAD repair, well done Ivan 👍

[@therealdjsynystr]

THANKS!!! I have been chasing a fuel gauge issue with some similar problems you show for a few years. I replaced the wires from the cluster to the pump and it worked for a day then back to issues. Yesterday, my wife's Escape wouldn't start. Nothing on the dash but everything else worked. So i got it towed here. In the meantime, I search youtube for answers. I ordered a lock module for next day devlier. Then I found your video. When the tow trucked dropped the SUV I popped the dash cover off and pushed the harness to the right. LIGHTS UP DASH AND STARTED RIGHT UP!!! I took out the cluster, resoldered the pins on the board, reinstalled, and now fuel gauge issues and other small issues are gone. THANKS AND GREAT JOB DIAGNOSING IT!

[@WatchWesWork]

Good fix! This is a somewhat common issue with the Ford Super Duty truck clusters from the early 2000s. They have two connectors and years of bouncing cracks the solder joints.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Cool! So reflowing the joints makes them good for another 20 years?

[@WatchWesWork]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I've done two of them and not had one come back. But they never had any of the wacky issues you had, just various parts of the cluster would stop working.

[@stevejones8665]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I would Guarantee it will never come back for bad solder joints in the cluster, now that you have done a proper soldering job on those connections. Much better job than a robot at the factory.😉👍👍👍

[@billmalec]

Guess I've been luck. 2000 Excursion and the only cluster problem I have is burnt out illumination lights. I'm not taking stuff apart and breaking things to fix that.

[@thadmachia9873]

Ivan nice job I now know who I would want to diagnose my car. You do amazing work!

[@mmichaeldonavon]

I would have been very wary of trying to get that cluster out - and apart! Great job Ivan. Really enjoyed this video. Thanks.

[@markbren8573]

Ivan you are a genius! Great diagnosing skills!

[@Johndoyledesign]

My 2010 Escape XLS 4d has had the exact same problem for years. Thank you, much appreciated and grateful for this video. Liked and subscribed.

[@rafaelmarin1963]

This guy is an automotive genius.

[@thetinpin]

That's Ivan! I love this channel because I too love the diagnostic process.

[@derwaldmeister3954]

No, an amateur. A genius knows that spray will not solve the problem and it will come back.

[@TheCrazy243]

“Come on wake up” 🤣. I did that too when I try to solve intermittent problems. Amazing diagnostic.

[@PilgrimInProgress]

You never cease to amaze. 😊

[@eacherenkeka]

Excellent diagnosis! easy to duplicate but hard to fixed. Thank you for taking us to the root cause of the problem! I wanted to see the medium speed pin solder joints but it is hard to see with the camera! Great job!

[@milesmahan]

Mad props on your tenacity..well done ~!

[@andrewmarkland9411]

More top forensics from CSI Pine Hollow. Good objective and patient approach. (Disappointing lack of Parts-Cannon action though...).

[@Graham_Wideman]

Hat's off to you Ivan on this one! Nice job initially playing with the symptoms to detect a pattern, then following that logically to the network schematic and the salient scope test. But especially good work tracking down the location of the intermittent connection which, as we know, can be the most elusive part! And of course, great satisfaction in repairing the PCB and no parts required. A+!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Graham! Yes locating the exact problem took some patience and a fine touch 😁

[@lawrencebush2603]

Very excellent diagnostic troubleshooting and repair.

[@WCSPete1]

Fantastic Ivan. Really great great video.

[@antoniotorres2939]

Thank you very much for your information,i had a problem with the instrument cluster(sometimes the lock light doesn't go off and the car wont start),i have never done this before(i am not a mechanic),but i did it following your instructions,i found cold solder in the connector pins now looks ok , thanks !!!

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Ivan great job 👍

[@timm7885]

Thats some mad soldering skills. If I tried that, several more lights would mysteriously be lit up. good work

[@vwwrenchie314]

New Ford idea..the Tap and see system...lol..way to go IVAN😎

[@balbutie]

Ivan, i have escape 2008 and it has the same 5 eletrical glitches. incredible. I will try tomorrow. thank you so much.

[@dennisbailey4296]

Great job you great Fixer.not very many people can fix that stuff. All the best from Canada

[@johnaclark1]

I'd be willing to bet the same or similar fix would apply to that center display, as well. I was certain right off the bat the center display issue was separate from the lights on the dash. Nice work again, Ivan!

[@dassme1]

Ford has this problem in the factory radio where the display goes dim or out and will sometimes come back on if you smack it . Just a bad solder joint . I fix them and clusters for my customers . .

[@josecondemarin9586]

Great job you save ur customers a lots of money. Thanks for the video.

[@baxrok2.]

Every time you hit that dash I heard the word 'cheap', 'cheap', 'cheap'. Nice job Ivan!

[@SalimKhan-gk1fh]

Good video Ivan I was shouting at the Computer screen first 20 minutes bad soldered joints! this is very common on the 2004 onwards models of fords in the UK ,Mostly causing non-starting, what I usually do is apply some mastic between the black plug connector and the cluster To stop the multi-plug pulling on the soldered joints, It makes the connector more secure and unable to flex , you should try doing this

[@roxanneabbott8424]

Excellent job Ivan!!!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Roxanne! This was a fun one 👍😄

[@billziegmond4943]

Great diagnostic. Deductive reasoning works wonders

[@cullenmiller8170]

Great video and fix for sure. I thought someone installed a clapper on the medium speed network. 🤣🤣🤣

[@ismarmeskovic]

no parts but knowledge required fix!great job ivan as always!

[@ecaparts]

Percussive maintenance fixes it, until it gets this bad!! I think the cluster was loosing the ground feed. The microprocessor in the cluster was finding a ground through the MS CAN High line causing it to pull up and taking the network down. Awesome find Ivan. Now you know what the problem is with the other display too!

[@MTLeopold]

Yeah was thinking bad ground but that's not where I would have checked. Kudos to Ivan for checking it out thoroughly. I guess the radio was a symptom in a way, bad electronics.

[@NewLevelAuto]

Awesome job as always bud !

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks Keith, really means a lot! When are we doing a New Level Auto and PHAD reunion? 😎

[@zeke112964]

My 04 F150 had a similar problem with the odometer and compass.....re-soldered the boards and everything worked fine! Also had to tap the cluster to read the odometer

[@yamaha37776]

Great video as always! was there still a problem with the center dash clock display or did it indirectly fix that too?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Didn't touch the center display

[@normyanke2515]

been there done that, cold spray in combination with pinpoint heat source could possibly track down a cracked trace, bad solder etc. Love watching, now that I am retired, this is entertainment to me, who else would binge watch these posts :)

[@richard1835]

Another great video from PHAD .

[@petebrown6356]

My 2012 Ford Escape is having cluster issues similar. Thanks for the video. My guess was something like this.

[@josephsfields]

Nice fix. Way to keep at it. Glad the customer got his AC fixed in the deal.

[@boblynch7348]

An awesome diagnosis!

[@robertheim352]

Thanks, good isolation of the flaw. That connector has a lot of strain challenging those solder bonds - typical Ford issue. Simple strain relief of the PCB connector plastic body could keep the harness weight from challenging the solder. Looks like they added goop to the metal pins instead.

[@sjn7220]

Yet another consequence of lead free solder. What was supposed to help the environment has only caused tons of broken electronic equipment to end up in landfills.

[@moconnell663]

My car is pre-RoHS, and has had cracked solder joints. it's more due to thermal cycling (and increased dependence on PCB-mount connectors) than lead-free alloys being more brittle.

[@sjn7220]

@@moconnell663 Sure, leaded solder can crack too, but as you said, the thermal cycling effects the lead-free solder far more due to its brittleness. Lead-free solder can also form whiskers over time (tin crystals) causing short circuits.

[@RobertHancock1]

There are different types of lead free solder as well, with different characteristics. I'm sure that a lot of these issues are partly due to using the cheaper stuff.

[@moconnell663]

@@sjn7220 That is absolutely true! I haven't had every system in my vehicle apart over the years, but one major difference between mine and this ford is that the PCB-mount connectors in my vehicle are all embedded in potting compound, there is no stress on any of the joints between the board and the pins, and the potting mitigates fluctuations in temperature (and whisker growth, if that were an issue). My failures have all been on goofy 70s-era relay designs that were still getting used in the early 90s.

[@ckm-mkc]

I had a 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II pre-RoHS - every single one of the 7 modules on the car had cracked solder joints. I took out all the modules and the 2 1/2 DIN radio to reflow all the joints.... It's not a new problem and it's mostly due to either not enough heat when it was assembled (my RX7 was a victim of that) or not enough solder, like when you run parts too fast through wave soldering, which is what it looks like here....

[@dosgos]

Free AC fix was huge! What an upgrade with the summer coming.

[@robertmoura7546]

It seems that the cluster is the gateway to the whole vehicle, I had a similar issue with a 2014 Ford EcoSport, I like these type of issue to diagnose, it's challenging thanks for sharing

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It's the translator between high and medium speed CAN 👍

[@GlynRobinson]

Love Ivan! I just bought one of these! 2012 Ford Escape Limited 3.0V6! 76K miles

[@boomer9900]

Good one Ivan.

[@kastooMcFry]

No parts required! Love it. I think charging him for your time is fair but you can't really give I'm a guarantee. Should it happen again, he clearly needs a cluster so that's a separate repair, imo. Thanks, Ivan. Good process.

[@spirokattan3655]

Great diag Ivan!

[@randyohler7836]

Done that many years ago. Tap and wiggle test. Always pulled the PC board and looked for cracks or burnt components. Fixed to many.

[@user-uu8cx6vu3x]

Awesome video, had same problem. fixed it right after watching this video

[@davidgilpin5200]

Ivan, I've noticed (and repaired) several boards - in flat panel TVs, LCD displays, and other devices - that had cracked solder joints. It seems to have been a lot worse since RoHS lead-free solder rolled out in the 2000s. The cluster in that second generation Ford Escape rolled out - in 2008, right as the RoHS thing was peaking. I theorize that the board manufacturers hadn't quite worked out the kinks with the higher temperature solder flow on SMD board assembly... and that the lead free solder was harder (and more brittle). That combination isn't good for an instrument cluster that receives constant vibration!

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

I noticed when Ivan was reflowing the connector that he was using 60/40 solder. Methinks that with proper tin/lead solder that fix will hold up a good long time

[@generaldisarray]

Great diag and fix. One quick thought, while I had the cluster apart I'd have blobbed some silicon carny goo, or even some hot snot, on those pins/the connector base to give it some extra support and prevent it from vibrating.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Great idea 👍

[@misterhandy5121]

NO PARTS REQUIRED !!!!!! THE PARTS WHISPERER LOL !!!!! IVAN YOU ARE THE MAN !!!! COME TO NYC WE NEED YOU !!!

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

Great Fix! Did you get a chance to repair the radio intermittent?

[@johnmorrow1628]

So now I have in my box of tricks. The Keith tug test and the Ivan tap test 😂😂

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

It's also the Keith Tap Test 😁

[@johnmorrow1628]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics patient pending

[@michaelweatherhead9470]

Awesome just awesome Ivan

[@noelcastle3986]

Another great video thanks they make my day.

[@Nfinitly5]

OMG! Thank you for this video. Bought a 2009 Ford escape limited. And had some crazy things happen where it will turn on to theft mode. So once you turn off the car. It won't turn on. I been using an object to keep the board functioning right. But I got tired of it and was ready to buy a new cluster.

[@NoName-yr1jv]

Good job 👍

[@AndrewHCann]

Excellent video also easy fix on computer problems connector also shocking and thought may had crank on circuit board or burn Connections too on wires too ! Simple fix for sure also that so wild too what happened and glad easy fix too!

[@vwbusguy1020]

Love the birds in background

[@thetinpin]

RadioShack solder! Have you been in my toolbox, Ivan? Nice work! I had a feeling you'd find a garbage soldering job from my similar experience with Ford clusters. I have a bluetooth scantool connected to an Android tablet mounted in my dash for my cluster in my 09 Crown Vic. Having the ability to see and log whatever I want from my cluster is pretty handy. 😉

[@htownblue11]

Another strange one. I’d have charged him a diag fee at least. Great find on the medium Canbus. Resoldering is way above what most mechanics would do. Your clientele are lucky.

[@IamDerick]

Another quick check when you have the board out see if the cap cans are leaking. The dielectric crap that comes out will damage PCB traces. From the ones I could see at the angle you shot I did not see any of the vile goo. Good work.

[@ElectronicWorkshop]

Great video, I had a similar issue with a Ford Kuga ,the problem was on the Hi speed can, I measured the resistance of the can line and it showed 62ohms, removing the dash and soldered the connector cured this,

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

60 ohms is normal... What was the resistance after the fix?

[@ElectronicWorkshop]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Resistance was close to 60 ohms about 60.25 I am lucky to have a good microscope, looking very carefully at the solder joints, i could see the poor solder joint

[@focusedelectronics]

Some amtech flux would make that reflow super easy. Great job!

[@dogsplantscarsneatstuff176]

Ivan you just sold me on keeping my old buick. One small break in the cluster causes mayhem. Sounds like a political cluster problem.

[@walkerpendleton760]

Lol

[@davyarthurs]

A bad cluster could cause a no-start on some early 2000 Fords. Skills as always.

[@oldwrench579]

Great job.

[@williegillie5712]

No need to ask about the charge. Ya dug a little deeper and found the bad connection. Repaired the solder and got the guy back on the road..The A/C was a nice pleasant bonus for the customer. I knew ya couldn’t show us a video without adding a few bonuses at the end. Ivan. Is it possible the a/c might be the culprit.? If the spike diode for the A/C clutch quit working and fed back into that connector it could heat and crack the solder joint.. Wouldn’t hurt to check it if ya get a chance. Nice work Ivan. I’m glad you were able to fix the instrument cluster. Not many mechanics would attempt that.

[@JustinBarger-qd5hs]

Thank you very much for posting this video! I have a 2011 escape that has been plagued with electrical issues and it took me months to realize that there was a problem with that exact connector above the cluster. I was having to jiggle this connector to get my truck to start and as it got worse i was jiggling it going down the road to keep the heat, powersteering, gauges and other stuff functioning properly. Its crazy how many important aspects of the vehicle are effected by this one little connector! My truck is broke down about 10 miles from home right now and i am going to go get the cluster and try my luck with resoldering it the way you did. Any tips for someone not accustomed to this kind of soldering would be greatly appreciated, Thank you again!

[@BillKristjanson]

Classic! I had a chevy which kept running AFTER the ignition was turned off and the key removed. A good wack on the dash would turn it off.

[@tombledsoe8880]

Nice repair! Maybe put a little glue between the connector and the board to bond the two together to illuminate future cracking?

[@Conetopiatv]

2 Month Review, Was able to Order the Soldering Kit, Soldered all the pins like the guy in the video. He did a fancy job of it, Mine looked a little ugly at first, but was able to clean it up a bit. Put everything back together ( When you plug the connector in : Warning ) All needles will Start ticking and shaking, for 5 sec. The Bigger Needles will adjust , Small ones will stay the same. The RPM needle will automatically adjust 250 upwards, and the MPH will adjust 5MPH higher. So make sure when you put the needles on, it looks as if your 1/4th of an inch below 0 on both, as they will adjust 1/4th of an inch upwards landing on 0 perfectly. Removed Tire pressure fault light & Message Removed traction control light Removed Emergency brake light This Fixed my Rear view Camera Fixed passenger Seat heater A/c works now Headlights 15 to 20% brighter Power steering feels easier Brake Pedal is a little firmer Accelerator is noticeably more responsive. SirusXM radio Satellite 1 , 2 , 3 Available / works now. Can Open Rear hatch Door while vehicle is on now. Bonus: my battery isn't dead in the morning anymore.

[@peters1821]

This is totally normal Ivan. Instead of touch screen Ford uses a new technology called tap screen. Great video btw.! Thanks for sharing!

[@quierofreeholes]

Something similar happened to me with a Ford edge, hvac module (which runs on mid speed network) could not comunicate with PCM that runs on the highspeed can, it ended up being the instrumet cluster.

[@davide.s.9880]

I can't wait to see whats the problem / fix.

[@PatGreen1830]

You have excellent skills. What experiences in the past got you to this point? Young viewers would love to know.

[@paulstaf]

Hi Ivan....what breakout box are you using? Do you have a link to it? Thanks.

[@philstuf]

Late 80's 300ZX dash controller issue all over again. As a car audio repair tech in the late 90's, we got SO MANY of these repairs subbed out to us for the same reason...

[@patlandy21]

Ivan, if I'm not mistaken, that's a AESwave breakout box you were using. Is there a justification to spend the extra money for the AESwave and do you have any discount codes for them? Thanks for a good video!

[@terence123cars]

Ivan, The circuit board may be twisting and causing a component solder connection to open, momentarily??

[@KYKAYAKER274ey1]

Wow yeah I’d definitely send mine to u honest and so smart

[@atrahasis3899]

No matter what mechanics, engineers, or scientists might say, some of us know the truth. It's haunted. Search your heart, you know it's true

[@Brainbaskit]

Haha!!! "What are you trying to tell me??" "Who are you??"

[@fire7765]

Good job

[@jimbe01]

Opps, sorry wrote comment before seeing bonus footage Ivan, did you try applying pressure to the cluster and the center stack on the top, front, of their respective assemblies? Sometimes physically pushing/pulling on the affected items help identify/resolve connection/contact issues. Agree to use contact cleaner on the appropriate electrical connections. P.S. Heat gun/cool spray are also helpful in fault isolation issues. P.P.S. Don’t believe it was a “cold” solder joint, more likely a cracked/intermittent type contact/connection. B-T-W Did you clean the re-flowed connection contacts on the pc board after soldering?

[@jessikerz25]

I recently inherited a 2011 Ford escape AWD 3.0L, however it came with these EXACT SAME PROBLEMS....dash/instrument panel lights randomly turn on and off killing battery, rear hatch not opening unless key is out of ignition, blinkers not working, and A/C not working suddenly. Then I decide to search on KZbin and what do you know, your video was the first one, and It's literally the same exact vehicle year, make and model and identical electrical issues. My husband is a diesel mechanic and mainly works on excavating equipment, however he has the SAME scanner that you have and used in the video, minus the picoscope, but that's not a problem as you have already diagnosed the exact location of the issue and I will be taking apart my instrument panel tomorrow, and flowing some solder into the pin holes of the connector, just as you did in this video because I am sure it's the same exact problem in my truck! I just wanted to share my gratitude for you posting this video. My husband watches your channel all the time, and he got excited when he overheard that it was your video! He usually gets annoyed when i bug him to fix my car all the time, so this time I decided to try and figure it out myself, via the school of YoutTube, where i learn how to do things that i have no idea about, but NEVER EVER have i gotten this lucky and found a video that could walk me thru fixing my issue, and every detail was the same and matched my issue EXACTLY to a "T"!!! I seriously cant thank you enough!

[@PEQ1975]

Great video! I have an issue with my 2008 model: the lights are fading (leds dying) can you tell which type of leds they use? I need to change them urgently... 😓

[@mikechiodetti4482]

I've only seen that problem a couple times. Most of the vehicles I worked on over a 30 year career from Jan 1987 until 2016 were 2011 and older.

[@gillgetter3004]

Just drive down road, smacking dash and knocking instrument panel. I had a 65 Ford that I pull out light switch and push down at same time, worked for years

[@davidrobertson5700]

He said it's like a ghost, I have never laughed so much at a you tube film . Oh man I need to play pool with you