The Difference Between Thin & Full Kerf Blades is SMALLER Than You Thought

Here's one of the cheapest, easiest, and most beneficial upgrades that ANYONE can make to there table saw, and why it works so well.
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[@unclejim2048]

Scribing a line on your tablesaw table is a great idea. To worry about the left side of the saw tooth is rather anal. Remember wood is hydroscopic and deliquescent -- what ever that means. If you are trying to do woodworking to the nearest 10,000 of an inch. it's fruitless -- you should be cutting piston wrist pins for Formula One race cars. Next someone will be worrying about the thickness of the line you scribed on the table top,

[@Toyotajunkie]

"Wrist pins" EXACTLY!! I mean, I try to be darn accurate, but it isn't metal... and even then who is machining parts with minute tolerances on a table saw? Perfect comment Jim!

[@makermark67]

I agree 100% it's one of the best upgrades I've ever done on my table saw. The fact that you had to go to that depth to explain it to some folks it's a bit worrisome but common sense ain't so common anymore. Glad you're hanging in there producing videos. You're filling a huge hole in the youtube world. Thanks for doing it right.

[@WorkshopGreg]

The arbor flange becomes the reference point the line is calibrated to. So long as the arbor position doesn't change, the line will forever be aligned with the edge of most blades. I like this solution a lot. I'll be doing this on my saw table as well.

[@ytbillybob]

A+ on the hand drawing. Speaking of hand drafting, when I got my first drafting set for Christmas about 50 years ago it came with a little paddle with a pad of sandpaper on it for "pointing" your lead. Later, in the office, we used the spin type desktop lead pointer. And of course we had the horsehair brush and the eraser bag. Who remembers those?? Another A+ on another quick example of measuring to fit rather than using a tape.

[@bobd5119]

In junior high circa 1959 I used the spinner, but not a brush or eraser bag. The pencils were no. 5. I wish I had saved my drawings, none of which I can remember at all.

[@oliverreedslovechild]

" the spin type desktop lead pointer ". Otherwise known as ' pencil sharpener '.

[@Brian-tb1zs]

Another excellent video, no dancing around, no stupid theatrics, just great info, delivered in a way that confirms it and can be understood. And you explain possible variables. Thanks !

[@skigglystars9525]

I had zero doubts it would work well for 99.9% of all woodworking folks.

[@jeffkowalski4936]

I did this on a saw when was first starting out and it worked great then. I’ve had my current saw for 20 years and somehow did not do this trick. Time to buy a new saw and start fresh. Lol

[@iSparkFU]

Nice video! Even way back in the 80's, craftsman table saws were on to this. They had way for you to "scribe" a line, aligned with your saw blade that was built into the saw top! It was called Exact-i-Cut. Yep.

[@davidjanis1997]

Yea it’s on my Craftsman table saw

[@velcroman11]

Thank you for putting the “knowalls” in their places. Your demonstration is incredible. I hate changing my blade once but you did it over and over. What a champion.

[@hansangb]

Hmmm, I forgot to do this with my saw. Thanks for the reminder! BTW, that highly technical diagram was awesome!

[@theswime945]

Thanks mate for another reassuring dose of your particular brand of common sense. I've yet to see a woodworker demonstrate a project that was ruined because of a couple of thousands of an inch. Cheers.

[@MCsCreations]

Wow... Pretty interesting stuff indeed, dude! Thanks for testing and measuring! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@michaelhughes1740]

1st look at your site. Good job. Brought forth well, and makes one think. I will have to see what else you have. Hang in there. Oh, good specs on the "AV" drawing as well. M

[@kwiknikk]

I didn't comment on the original video but I was on the side that it was silly to scribe a line because it will only work for one blade. I am so surprised by your findings and glad I was wrong, I'm going to give this a try.

[@vmoutsop]

Good enough is usually good enough. Skeptics will will be what they be. I like the suggestion, keep them coming!

[@Toyotajunkie]

I love how you slam the door shut!!! And you do it in a fairly respectful manner, with just a dash of "you moron." The only thing I would have added to the video... if your arbor faces the other direction then scribe the other side. Thanks for the great content as always!!!!

[@kencoleman7762]

Well done and your logic seems dead on to me. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate the accuracy of this scribed line.

[@charlesenfield2192]

I have to admit I was wrong about this one. It didn't occur to me that with the plate and kerf changing together that the difference relative to the arbor flange is so small. Thanks for demonstrating this. I would not have tried it for myself.

[@johnlp3376]

I got a new sawstop about 8 months ago been thinking about the line. It will work fine for me full , thin , rip dont matter my woodworking is not in that's tight of tolerance. Ita work for me

[@Kris-82]

Ppl seems to not consider that there's a collar to which all blades references to

[@lithiumdeuteride]

You scienced it good!

[@Dandroid61]

I have to go scribe a line on my tablesaw...be back in a bit...

[@scottmen7]

Great video and awesome breakdown. Thanks!

[@tommythompson6278]

I did exactly the same thing right after I bought my saw. My issue was I couldn’t exactly see where the blade was cutting and I didn’t like that. So I drew the line and feel much better and more exact on the first cut every time.

[@JWimpy]

I did this years ago on my table saw and it has not failed me yet. It has been a very valuable trick.

[@Erik_The_Viking]

I drew a pencil line on my saw (aluminum top), so I know where the blade starts. Makes a huge difference. You would think that would be standard on saws.

[@davidyeo4302]

SCIENCE!!!! Great video! This will be done to my new saw! Thanks!

[@BlessedLaymanNC]

That's a great video and probably a waste of your time.... There will always be critics who think they are better than you, LOL. When you are eye-balling the cut, I don't think you will ever be more accurate than your calipers can measure. Even if you are, everything is relative. Unless you cut each board with a different kerf blade, they will all be the same length in the end. How important is 1/32" in wood working? We aren't building O-Rings for NASA.

[@BobBob-eh5sb]

My god, 2/1000’s. How will I ever get pieces to fit right😂 Seriously though, as the old saying goes, close enough for government work. I won’t speak for others, but I probably don’t mark my line that precisely most of the time to worry about it. I like your idea of the line on the saw.

[@mikedurkee7296]

Exceptional!

[@ConcreteLand]

I’m still wondering where he got the human hair. 🤔🤣

[@InspireWoodcraft]

Wife here! It was mine! 🤣

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!

[@tomshepard4411]

great video, as always. The only real difference is in some specialty blades, for example a Dado stack with an offset left/right. .0025 is not even visible to the naked eye!

[@oneeyedphotographer]

I use a sled on one side of the saw bench. Like the fence on your mitre gauge, the cut marks the spot. It does depend on which side the shaft that hold your blade is bushed. I think it's always user-left, but I ever would make that assumption. Just look at hand-held circular saws. Cordless, on side. Corded, the other.

[@garynicoletti7182]

May I ask you what Brand & Model number miter gauge you used in this video? Do you have Pros & Cons about it?

[@rona1144]

Nice, especially the dado stack at the end.

[@KyleBruns]

Seeing this in action convinced me.

[@michaelkeymont501]

The KZbin comment section should be taken about as seriously as when you get a random text message from a number that you don’t recognize in which the sender refers to you as “dear recipient”…

[@egbluesuede1220]

That reminds me.....i meanth to go make a scratch in my table the last time I saw this, but guess I forgot. I'll go do that now thank you!

[@atomictyler]

I'm late to the party, but if you want dead on accuracy then you should be using a shooting board after the saw cut anyways. The line on the table saw is most certainly accurate enough for a cut at the table saw.

[@TxStang]

I think the ones that have an issue with the scribe line are using the miter slot to the left of the blade but they have an older saw that the blade arbor or direct drive motor is on the right , that would definitely change a tad as then you are moving the cutting edge away from the scribed line with different thickness blades . My old Rockwell table saw is like that , motor is on the right side with the nut on the left .

[@Toyotajunkie]

Then, in that case, you would scribe the opposite side......

[@xisotopex]

seems like a good way to very quickly and easily gauge if the table saw is out of adjustment...

[@glencrandall7051]

The scribed line will be of value unless a crosscut sled is being used. The sled will cover up the line. But then you can use the kerf in the sled so it wouldn't matter.🙂🙂

[@richardgeorge9750]

Excellent info Excellent delivery Looks like you also had a little fun with this one

[@xisotopex]

my only issue with this is that I dont trust my ability to accurately true the saw blade, and therefore any mark I make would be incorrect...

[@JimRimS4S]

Love it. There is nothing wrong with trying to understand what is going on when you make a cut. Keep it up

[@JC-ms2rz]

I use a sled for 90 percent of all my table saw cuts. So this probably would not help me at all. But I love the idea.

[@rodpotts2666]

Love it!

[@bryantyler229]

Thanks man, Do you mind sharing what species of wood that green wood is that you used in the last shots?

[@ibdrummin82]

Haters be a hatin'. Sounds like a good upgrade. Going to try it soon.

[@GrantOakes]

Great content as usual! Thanks for posting.

[@sdoitla1431]

The main thing to consider it the scribed line should be on the side of the blade that is opposite the side of the arbor that the nut & washer thread onto the arbor. Some saws thread from the left and some thread from the right.

[@dahljerald2934]

A interesting and helpful tip. Thanks

[@jarekborgul]

Where from did you get a hair? 😆

[@Toyotajunkie]

Oh wow! Until I read this I didn't think about it. Haaaa!!! Love it

[@tomowens2720]

I enjoyed watching this vid as I have others you've posted. I've done this and wonder why manufacturer's don't do it. Also I decided to give that fastcap zero clearance tape a try. Excellent product, I'll never have to make another zero throat plate again & all for $10. I think the best part of this vid was when you said you sharpened your pencil to a sharp point then drew out your lines with a mechanical pencil! Now that was phunny right there. Side note viewers, if you're not using that specific mechanical pencil, buy one. None better.

[@lincolndickerson1293]

To me this raises a question. For all 90° (angled cuts not good) cuts why aren’t all table saw fences used on the motor side of the blade. The fence is always the same distance from the saw ( within 2.5 thousands) Facts: 1) hand planes can remove 1 thousandth of an inch or less when properly tuned and may matter in fine furniture. 2) end grain doesn’t move so wood movement not a factor in crosscuts. Both of which you probably know. Also have little to do with your point except in supporting that 2.5 thousands is in consequence when using a table saw.

[@warrenwerks]

My old table saw the arbor was on the opposite side and it was great just for this reason. It’s one of the few things that drives me nuts about the sawstop. If the arbor was on the right instead I could rely on my fence scale for all of my blades instead of just one

[@lincolndickerson1293]

@@warrenwerks I have a dewalt contractor saw. The fence can be moved to the otherside. I am going to monkey with it over the weekend.

[@warrenwerks]

@@lincolndickerson1293 I can move the fence to the other side as well but for me it I feel like I have much less control of the workpiece when the fence is left of the blade

[@ytbillybob]

@@warrenwerks I'm left handed but I bat and golf right. I use my fence to the right of the blade. Does that mean that I "tablesaw" right as well. Seriously, you right handers, does it feel more natural for you to have the fence on the right or is it just what most everyone does?

[@Toyotajunkie]

Most saws are capable of moving the fence to the other side of the blade... but you do loose some distance UNLESS you use his suggestion of adding width to your table (he has a video on it). Just a thought

[@danielesilvaggi]

I have yet to use this method but it is a very good idea. thank you.

[@jackstanford550]

QUESTION. Wouldn’t a saw ( like mine) with a RIGHT tilt blade require the mark to be made on the other side of the blade. Just asking. Thanks

[@Toyotajunkie]

If the drive/arbor is on the opposite side (some older machines and possibly "odd" brands, no offense intended) then yes, you would want to scribe/mark accordingly. Always go on the FIXED position side, aka the point where all the blades but up against on the arbor.

[@stephan1906]

Very interesting experiment! I upgraded my saw with the line, just after I saw your video about it. It is so efficient! Thanks a lot and best regards from germany.

[@unperrier5998]

It looks to me that this line is redundant with the rightmost side of your sled. Just align the piece with your sled and you don't need the line. Especially because I've got only one shot at making that line and if I fail I end-up with a line that's wrong, whereas the rightmost side of the sled is always wrong... and it can slide along, discribing the line, virtually but practically.

[@garychaiken808]

Thank you. That’s a good tip.

[@Goalsplus]

Excellent idea and results.

[@poman8772]

Thanks for the reminder. Your no bs/common sense approach to woodworking is very refreshing. Keep these videos coming!

[@Toyotajunkie]

I have a Bosch (yes it sucks in some ways and I wish I had gone differently but at the time it worked perfectly) and it has a yellow "dot" to pencil a cut line on.

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

I followed your lead and did it to my table saw and by the way I can’t believe it’s been a year but I only put a light mark to see how accurate it was and after a few blade changes it has been on point with every cut so yes it’s the best add to my saw. The only change I made was adding a bit of red marking paint to highlight it

[@burntsider8457]

Impressive analysis.

[@Andreas-tw4cm]

Very helpfull

[@dpmeyer4867]

Thanks

[@gregmize01]

nuce

[@Griswald2000]

Wish my motor was 180 degrees from what it is now.

[@Toyotajunkie]

Just scribe the other side and move your miter to the other track (assuming you have one...). Or use a sled maybe? Just suggestions

[@axion8788]

You are a master of spatial thinking. I am always amazed at the solutions you come up with. I suck at spatial thinking/visualization which helps explain what an inept woodworker I am.🙃

[@Toyotajunkie]

You just need to use more tape measures and rulers... doesn't mean you're "inept" or bad at what you do. Maybe try using large sheets of construction paper or something similar (onion paper or wrapping paper on large rolls works great for the people I know) to sketch a more life-like size of the project? That way you maybe can "see" it better??

[@axion8788]

@@Toyotajunkie I appreciate your suggestions. Sadly, this limitation also means I am unable to draw in 3D. Even Sketch-up is basically unusable. Instead, I kind of see it as I build it. Can't sing either! 🙂🙃🙂

[@Toyotajunkie]

@axion8788 Haa! "Can't sing either" there are a lot of those types on the radio... Well, good luck and keep trying. I try my best to help anyone I can. If it gets to the point where it is NOT enjoyable, make sure to recognize that and move on.

[@JavaidHameed]

hi

[@matthewgaylen2827]

that was totally cool. Hastagtotallycool